What a tremendous amount of practical knowledge Mr. Palmer has!

Thanks for this!! I've been making rabbeted boxes and parts for the last 6 years. Fortunately a friend salvaged 3/4" marine plywood cut offs from the shop dumpster. I'm 40 years a cabinetmaker. Over 20 managing large commercial shops. Your focus on safety is great! Your methods are excellent. I only take issue with one step. .when you're cutting your sides to length there is a great risk of a violent kick back. You shouldn't use the miter gauge and rip fence with a cut off of a piece narrower than it is long..clamp a small piece to the front of your fence, about 3/4" , then butt your piece against for length, then as you push forward through the blade you have 3/4" of space to the right for your cut off piece , thus preventing binding. Without the space if your piece cocks a little it's coming back at you at 200mph..and maybe dragging you hand into the blade in the process. 30,000 table saw accidents a year in the USA, half involve amputations. Scary statistic. Most of those are men in their 60s,70s and 80s.

Thank you for posting this very practical guide that many are going to find beneficial. :)

I appreciate very much Mike sharing his successes. I have adopted his double nuclei with much success. Thanks for making this available to us.

I saw a queen yard where they had little pieces of fabric, hanging off the entrance for the queen to grab onto during the windy weather.

We used to buy supers full of drawn honey comb for $18.xx CAD now an unassembled super is $24.×× And stand to the side of the direction the wood will fly fr the table if a board slips and falls on the blade . It hurts if you catch a super side in the ribs or the lips 💋. A self feed on your saw is a blessing Great instructions Mike 👍

The first question was about the tapering of the frames. The side legs of the frames are wide shouldered and narrower at the bottom. There are two practical reasons for this design. First, the wide top shoulder exceeds the width of the top bar. This give you automatic spacing as you push the frames tightly together, eliminating the need for a spacer tool. Adding this shoulder to the width of the frame legs caused a problem of waste wood when cutting the pieces out. The narrow end is the original width of the frame leg. Many pieces are cut out of a single board and the older models had a straight line cut between them. Now with the shouldered design, they wanted to still be able to make a single cut between them, so they invert every other leg and cut a single curvy line. The next time you assemble your frames, turn one leg upside down against another and see how they fit together like jigsaw puzzle pieces. Most of the wood doesn't need to be there, but for speedy manufacturing purposes, they cut them out this way. So that makes the second reason for their funny shape is speed in cutting the pieces out and decreasing wood scraps.

It was a great vid! The curmudgeons at the end wanting to debate with him I found hilarious.

Mike is great.

Thank you for posting this!!

I wish I saw this a year ago before I made thousands of finger joints.

Thank you for sharing. I didn't even realize that the bottom board had a winter configuration 😂. I just thought there was a top and a bottom.

Thank you

This was great Thanks. Can you get Mike to do a video on how he manages his production hives a step by step. video that would be really great.

If you use a 3/4"entrance the bees will need to travel 22 700 trips the extra 3/8 it travels to get in then out again is 1,😮418.75 feet. How long does it take a bee to walk that far . 3/8 will keep mice out and save heat and work the bees less and you will have less comb on the bottom of the lower frames . Win win win win 🏆 😮

Somebody needs to tell him dado blades are outlawed in Europe…