I got a model 19 from my grandfather, it’s in essentially mint condition

I would take is billfold

I put some reverse drag on the cylinder as I double action fire into a snap cap, to make sure the lockup on Colt pistols is good. The pawl hits the locking notch almost simultaneously with the hammer drop on those old lock bar Colts. The model I have has routinely been reamed from .38 Spcl to .357 with no ill effects, provided .357 is rarely used. Colt even made a very few Diamond Backs chambered for ".357 or .38 Spcl Ctg." The last one I saw sold for around $20,000. (Colt assumes it was a prototype that was shipped to The Jewel Box Pawn & Gun Store in Phoenix Az, in 1967, along with 8 other normal .38 Speclial Diamondback 2 5/8 bbl Diamondback pistols.) All Colt's archives show for sure, is 9 of them shipped, but all showed being .38 Special ONLY. The owner of Jewel Box tried and tried to order more .357 Diamondbacks, but to no avail.

Nah, just load it and fire the gun with your arm wrapped around a wall. You'll be on one side of the wall while your forearm, hand & gun are on the other. Thanks for your question, and remember to shop Midway USA. You have my word on it!

a bit late and not sure which will apply but there are 3 options for the 1893 ( 2 types of Number 9 ) at Numrich aka Gun Parts Corp. in their listings www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/remington/shotguns-rem Which will help with schematics, IMA would be another option if MIDWEST fails and then you would have to check regularly everygunpart.com/long-guns-kits.html which very sad place of guns that were cut up but all the parts saved from very bad police agencies and horrible cities.

Take the side plate off and check the way the hammer & trigger function.Both of those pieces are case-hardended,and not likely to wear on their own. Sounds like someone has been in there monkeying with either of those 2 parts...If the hammer does not lock back,the bottom part of it is likely worn,or someone has filled it in an effort to get a smooth pull.Same goes for the trigger..

It's the sear pin is worn out. That's why it won't stay cocked.

I wouldn't do it. That gun is probably 40 years old and isn't rated for +p.

yes push the cilinder latch thumb piece back ,its blocking the hammer with cilinder open its also normal with all s W revolvers

Yes,it's normal. Just hold the cylinder lock back while cocking.

+Joe Guzman Some owners say that doing it adds "character" to the revolver! LOL What a bunch of idiots.

Joe Guzman what is fry fire

swinging the cylinder shut is a sure fire way to throw off your timing.

And it will bend the truss-rod.

Spinning the cylinder just puts drag marks on the cylinder unduly faster than usual, and wears down the locking pawl. You can do it, but don't make a habit of it. Flip slamming the crane & cylinder is a fabulous way to permanently damage the whole assembly and possibly even the entire frame of the gun, destroying the whole gun. Dry firing a modern center fire is not that bad, but it also put unnecessary wear on parts. It causes stressing of the firing pin's tip, and where the hammer strikes the frame. With a transfer bar safety the stresses & wear will not be as bad as with a hammer block colt type action, and worst of all, any rimfire, or old pre-drop safety guns, with no block or bar safety, you may even break the firing pin, or slam enough of a dent into the frame to drag the pin across the cartridges and jam up the action, or break the firing pin. You can do it, but don't make a habit of it, and don't be surprised if an older gun's parts break.

that just means your gun isn't worn in yet

+Rebelflag1201gaming you mean the end shake is LESS after a gun is worn in? I thought it gets worse with time? I am concerned I have too much end shake

+Ted Stevens I must've read that wrong getting endshake over time happens but it increases I would find a local gunsmith or do it yourself and insert a .002 ring

Gene Rollins impossible question