If you found the little electrical schematic diagram that should be tucked away inside the machine somewhere (mine was just under the lid and was the first thing I noticed) it explains how the power works for the heating...there are 3 heating options: one, other or both elements depending on what cycle you are using and there are different timings for each. It's a remarkably simple circuit.

Back in the day there was a paste you could apply in the wire junction, and the heat would turn it into a solid ceramic block, locking the wire in place. I've seen people doing something similar applying borax paste, but they say the borax "fluxes" the joint effectively making a solder point (there's no added material in this case).

So this is an old video now, but since I just took delivery of a second hand Miele dryer (with broken moisture sensor circuit that I'm going to fix), I'll just confirm the speculation about why it uses the high power heating even when low temperature is selected... As you saw in part one, there's a temperature sensor in the heater bank. This determines the heat in the drum. When the drum temperature is considerably below the target temperature, my dryer will max out power, 2.75 kW for the heating elements and 250 W for the drive motor. (Mine actually has 3.3 kW of heating power but you have to hardwire it to a 16 amp breaker to use that, I'm using a normal plug, so I downrated it to 2.75 kW in the programming mode. Just to keep it all within 13 amp limit) As it gets close to the target temperature, it will start switching off heating elements until it finally reaches it. At that point it switches them all off until it gets too cold and then it starts switching them back on again. It's not like the dryer I grew up with in the 1990s, where it was all manually controlled and you told it how which of its two heating elements to use. They certainly wouldn't shut the heat down if it got too hot inside back in those days! There is also a second temperature in the exhaust duct. Basically if the one in the heater bank is red hot and the one in the exhaust duct is stone cold, the computer interprets that as a blocked lint filter, so it pauses the cycle and tells you to clean it before your clothes catch fire. If the difference between the two isn't that extreme then it will wait until the end before it moans at you to clean it out.

I think that maybe if you do a cottons cycle with normal temperature then both elements possibly may be active. And that the automatic plus cycle and the timed cycle default to low temperature

Hello Bootsowen. I have a Miele T8685c dryer that trips the RCD (Residual Current Device) in our electrical panel, typically in the middle of a program. I have removed the heating element from the back of the machine and checked all the metal wires, and they are all intact. I have also tried entering service mode with the machine and running a component test, which reports "error" but does not provide an error code to indicate the cause. Is there a relay inside the machine that might be causing this power interruption that should be replaced? I would like to try to fix it myself because Miele's spare parts prices are exorbitant. Here in Denmark, such a heating element box costs around 380 USD, which I think is excessive for a piece of metal. I hope you can give me a tip.

it looks fixed. The other element may not switch on until later in the program or it may work in the express cycle? In NZ only 1 element is used. Just test it with laundry. Ducted dryers are great. So fast and you can move the bung from the side to the back if that helps with the venting.

It may use bigger element at the beginning to warm up, and then when temperature is reached or sensor detects that clothes are almost done it may switch to smaller one ?

Looks good, it does seem like u have fixed it because otherwise it would do the same thing also maybe u could give it to a family memeber or someone who u know maybe? Also did u replace the bosch tumble dryer for the gas one then

Hi I have a problem with my Miele Dryer T8423C. put clothes and started machine after 5 min comes the message clean air duct. but I have done it several times but no change. can you help me with it Regards S.Kumar

It may use 1 element for low heat cycles e.g. automatic and use both once its into main drying on cotton high heat

To be honest it looks like you fixed it to be honest put a half full load of washing that’s just come out of the washing machine then put it on a cotton is extra dry and see how it comes out

Hi Mate. Can you use a connector bloc to repair this do you reckon for this?

I'd keep it, it's a rather modern machine. Try eBay for a used element.

😀

Seems like the word safe does not exist in your vocabulary didn't I tell you to wear a pair of gloves -_-|| Anywho I'm not sure how long your fix is going to last but that dryer is perfectly functional in all Cycles no matter what you choose the high element will always kick in to achieved a certain temperature and then the low element will carry on and if you want to test that just wait for the mid cycle and don't forget this time please wear a pair of gloves