If you found the little electrical schematic diagram that should be tucked away inside the machine somewhere (mine was just under the lid and was the first thing I noticed) it explains how the power works for the heating...there are 3 heating options: one, other or both elements depending on what cycle you are using and there are different timings for each. It's a remarkably simple circuit.
@diegoiunou Жыл бұрын
Back in the day there was a paste you could apply in the wire junction, and the heat would turn it into a solid ceramic block, locking the wire in place. I've seen people doing something similar applying borax paste, but they say the borax "fluxes" the joint effectively making a solder point (there's no added material in this case).
@quartzlump3 жыл бұрын
So this is an old video now, but since I just took delivery of a second hand Miele dryer (with broken moisture sensor circuit that I'm going to fix), I'll just confirm the speculation about why it uses the high power heating even when low temperature is selected... As you saw in part one, there's a temperature sensor in the heater bank. This determines the heat in the drum. When the drum temperature is considerably below the target temperature, my dryer will max out power, 2.75 kW for the heating elements and 250 W for the drive motor. (Mine actually has 3.3 kW of heating power but you have to hardwire it to a 16 amp breaker to use that, I'm using a normal plug, so I downrated it to 2.75 kW in the programming mode. Just to keep it all within 13 amp limit) As it gets close to the target temperature, it will start switching off heating elements until it finally reaches it. At that point it switches them all off until it gets too cold and then it starts switching them back on again. It's not like the dryer I grew up with in the 1990s, where it was all manually controlled and you told it how which of its two heating elements to use. They certainly wouldn't shut the heat down if it got too hot inside back in those days! There is also a second temperature in the exhaust duct. Basically if the one in the heater bank is red hot and the one in the exhaust duct is stone cold, the computer interprets that as a blocked lint filter, so it pauses the cycle and tells you to clean it before your clothes catch fire. If the difference between the two isn't that extreme then it will wait until the end before it moans at you to clean it out.
@bootsowen3 жыл бұрын
I have moved over to a gas dryer. Much cheaper, with the added bonus that I get to burn fossil fuels directly. It has a hi lo switch, but no elements, just a burner. It seems to work in a similar way to the miele: monitoring temperature. The older machines should still have had a thermal fuse to blow if it gets too hot. Not as clever as that miele of yours.
@LaundryGuy15004 жыл бұрын
I think that maybe if you do a cottons cycle with normal temperature then both elements possibly may be active. And that the automatic plus cycle and the timed cycle default to low temperature
@SLindbergАй бұрын
Hello Bootsowen. I have a Miele T8685c dryer that trips the RCD (Residual Current Device) in our electrical panel, typically in the middle of a program. I have removed the heating element from the back of the machine and checked all the metal wires, and they are all intact. I have also tried entering service mode with the machine and running a component test, which reports "error" but does not provide an error code to indicate the cause. Is there a relay inside the machine that might be causing this power interruption that should be replaced? I would like to try to fix it myself because Miele's spare parts prices are exorbitant. Here in Denmark, such a heating element box costs around 380 USD, which I think is excessive for a piece of metal. I hope you can give me a tip.
@bootsowenАй бұрын
If it is tripping the rcd and not the mcb then testing components in situ for earth leakage. It is not something that I know much about. If the machine is getting warm before it trips then it is possibly not the element. Or the element may have two coils and one of them could be defective. If it trips when the pump comes on( if it has a pump) then maybe pump. Also thermostats that tell the board to turn off the element or that do it directly maybe at fault. Could be anything. Figure out what point in the cycle it is happening at and that’s a clue. I sold off the machine in the video as broken. Even though it was working with my repair. The element was too expensive.
@rmariu4 жыл бұрын
it looks fixed. The other element may not switch on until later in the program or it may work in the express cycle? In NZ only 1 element is used. Just test it with laundry. Ducted dryers are great. So fast and you can move the bung from the side to the back if that helps with the venting.
@bootsowen4 жыл бұрын
But do you think that fix is good enough to sell the machine? I would be happy to keep it, but I don't need it.
@rmariu4 жыл бұрын
@@bootsowen Use it for 2 weeks and if it lasts then its good enough to sell.
@MrJanulis Жыл бұрын
Yes, I can confirm that it uses one element only (at least in New Zealand version). You can check your one by looking for the number of relays on the PCB that heating element is connected - if it’s 2 relays - it uses only one element, if it’s 3 - both elements can be used - I am trying to fix my machine and tracing down the connections - my heating element is fine, might be that relays are dead, or the relays driver, or … temperature sensors - one is measuring 20k, another one around 100K, not sure how much it should be (were not able to wiggle them out to see part number).
@mikigry98384 жыл бұрын
It may use bigger element at the beginning to warm up, and then when temperature is reached or sensor detects that clothes are almost done it may switch to smaller one ?
@washertech4 жыл бұрын
Looks good, it does seem like u have fixed it because otherwise it would do the same thing also maybe u could give it to a family memeber or someone who u know maybe? Also did u replace the bosch tumble dryer for the gas one then
@sasikumarsinnarasa84533 жыл бұрын
Hi I have a problem with my Miele Dryer T8423C. put clothes and started machine after 5 min comes the message clean air duct. but I have done it several times but no change. can you help me with it Regards S.Kumar
@mrlaundry1014 жыл бұрын
It may use 1 element for low heat cycles e.g. automatic and use both once its into main drying on cotton high heat
@bootsowen4 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@SuperWasherKid20024 жыл бұрын
To be honest it looks like you fixed it to be honest put a half full load of washing that’s just come out of the washing machine then put it on a cotton is extra dry and see how it comes out
@LordJasonKing3 жыл бұрын
Hi Mate. Can you use a connector bloc to repair this do you reckon for this?
@bootsowen3 жыл бұрын
I think you can use the brass bit out of a connector block, but I don't know how good it would be. you could just twist the wires together, maybe that is not safe. The safety police might remind me.
@LordJasonKing3 жыл бұрын
@@bootsowen no probs mate. How do you use the multimeter? I couldn't quite see where you put the connections. Any idea what sheeting the meter should be on?
@bootsowen3 жыл бұрын
I imagine that I used it to test continuity or resistance in the heater coils. so resistance measured in ohms.
@LordJasonKing3 жыл бұрын
@@bootsowen greetings from Wales. What seetiing on the ohms meter?
@bootsowen3 жыл бұрын
Hi Buddy, if you can't see it in the video then there is no way I can remember, If it is continuity it doesn't seem to matter, just open circuit or not.
@Wasmachineman4 жыл бұрын
I'd keep it, it's a rather modern machine. Try eBay for a used element.
@bootsowen4 жыл бұрын
Too expensive buddy!
@LordJasonKing3 жыл бұрын
@@bootsowen they are! I've the same problem! It's mint but the element is duff!
@bootsowen3 жыл бұрын
Difficult to know what to do, I sold the machine for spares, didn't get much for it, way less than an element would have cost!
@terrysmith90224 жыл бұрын
😀
@abdelkaderelbachir30594 жыл бұрын
Seems like the word safe does not exist in your vocabulary didn't I tell you to wear a pair of gloves -_-|| Anywho I'm not sure how long your fix is going to last but that dryer is perfectly functional in all Cycles no matter what you choose the high element will always kick in to achieved a certain temperature and then the low element will carry on and if you want to test that just wait for the mid cycle and don't forget this time please wear a pair of gloves
@bootsowen4 жыл бұрын
I am not sure what the gloves would do. The trick is not to touch the electricity. When I was live wiring in a 100amp isolation switch in my house I was careful not to touch the copper bits. Still alive! and now it is safe to turn it off. why does it have a high and low element, can it not just turn on and off the high element?
@abdelkaderelbachir30594 жыл бұрын
@@bootsowen yeah yeah I know I guess if you are careful enough gloves don't really matter but I'm pretty sure that they do exist for a reason Back to the dryer see the low element is kind of weak so it does need a little bit of help from his powerful brother to heat up the laundry inside more quickly especially when the ambient temperature is low let's say winter so in most of those low heat Cycles the bigger element will kick on first and then the low one will carry on I hope that's clear enough and I wish you a happy Halloween 🎃
@bootsowen4 жыл бұрын
Happy halloween!
@davido86282 жыл бұрын
@@bootsowen The risks of repairing a dryer heating element as shown in the video are creating a fire or causing an electrocution if you plan to operate the dryer unattended, because the heating element works on uninsulated 220 VAC. Note that the white ceramic insulators are there to keep the heating element from touching the metal casing and there is not much clearance. Might be OK to try briefly just to make sure there aren't issues with the dryer's operation, if you know what you doing. Best to pay the money for a new heating element once you see an open circuit like that in the heating element or just get a new dryer.