Very helpful video Mike. Great tip on the groove for the chuck too. I don't quite follow why, how or where the rubber ring is used but I'm glad that no calves were harmed in the process.. Thanks Mike.

As a new turner, I appreciate all the tips and advice thank you.

Great video Mike, quick and easy to make and it works. As others has noted I use a piece of clear plastic tubing instead of o-ring for centering and thread protection.

good stuff mike . your the man . i use your tip on holding the jacob chuck all the time . and it dint take long to see why to do it and i was glad i was .

Thanks for your good tips Mike , very helpful.

Great video Thank you

Great tips. Experienced a drill chuck coming loose yesterday with a buffing wheel in it. Love the blooper at the end!

👍thanks for sharing

Good tips Mike,and a good laugh!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Nice job!

Great tip and video take care. Y.N.W.A.

Great video Some additional thoughts - 1. I chose to make my drawbar handle by embedding a nut in a recess between two bits of wood that were glued together (I could have used a threaded insert and avoided the glueup). The result is that the handle can be adjusted to whatever length is required by the tool it is being used with. The downside of that approach is that it leaves the cut end of the threaded rod exposed at the outboard side of the handwheel - and that's dangerous (DAMHIKT). I solved that problem by drilling and tapping a scrap to fit over that end, and then turning it down to make a rounded protective cap. This scrap could be wood, but I chose to use HDPE. Of course, a simpler solution would be to round over the end of the rod using a grinder or file, but turners always have to turn something! 2. I either read or saw somewhere that the threads on the drawbar potentially can foul the female morse taper in the headstock as it is inserted for use. A solution for that is to use 2-3" of heat-shrink plastic tubing on the drawbar, leaving 1/2" or so to screw into the fixing it is being used to secure. 3. Some (many) Jacobs chucks actually consist of a mandrel with a morse taper at one end, and a different taper that fits into the chuck body (typically, a JT-33 taper). The good news is that if you are upgrading from a minilathe with an MT-1 taper to a larger lathe with an MT-2 taper, it costs less to replace that mandrel than it does to replace the entire chuck. But the bad news is that vibration can cause that JT-33 taper to come loose, and in that case, a drawbar won't hold the chuck in place since it only attaches to the mandrel. This is another reason why it is better to use the Jacobs chuck in the tailstock for drilling - holding the chuck with your left hand will prevent the chuck body from separating from the mandrel.

NICE video, Mike. Did you drill the hole the same size as the o.d. or did you drill the hole smaller and thread the rod in? Tks! SAFE TURNING, John

mike any ideas if the morse taper does not have threads on the ends,,only flat spot

I really like your videos, but l wish you would show more of the out-takes. ;-)

Thanks for the tip on the little groove to use in jaw.