Many thanks for your kind words of support, I am very glad you like my fair trial to prove just how beastly this piece of kit really is.

This test is misleading and disingenuous. The Milwaukee was being used with a normal 3 jaw chuck and a standard masonry drill bit.

I am tempted to take the plunge and take a tangent with ferrex, erbauer and bauker tools as these all seem to be made by positec and are all at different price points with different tools, some are visually the same, the ferrex 3 way combi drill from aldi, baukers 18v combi drill from toolstation and the worx H3 all visually look identical yet I have a sneaky suspicion that if put head to head it would be a worx 1st bauker 2nd and ferrex 3rd...... based purely on gut instinct but let's not forget they are all positec so maybe not? Erbauer stuff might be difficult to source as only old erbauer products are "sexually compatible" with worx batteries, their 2018 line up onwards has fairly different battery types so the batteries definitely don't fit..... but with modification? A lot of potential videos for the future for sure!

There are loads of those drills that are the same with different skin. Off the top of my head Macallister from Toolststion also comes to mind. Another tool that's the same is the 18v 18g brad nailer. Interestingly various companies have it but with varying battery connectors. I think the difference between the drills is likely to come down to terminal connector positioning and plastic tabs to physically try to stop you from putting it in. This is something I'm interested in and is sometimes discussed on my 'Aldi Tool Fans' Facebook group which I'd love you to join as someone aboard this curiosity voyage.

Many thanks for your comment, as a cost vs performance it is in a league of its own, it makes decent tools affordable to those who maybe cant justify spending a weeks wages on 1 drill!

This test is misleading and disingenuous. The Milwaukee was being used with a normal 3 jaw chuck and a standard masonry drill bit.

Hi Jörn Reppenhagen, I sort of get it a few times, I have yet to work out what causes it, but you are right it is rather annoying when it does I found when using it for paddle mixing you know when you need precise control to get residue off or else cement goes EVERYWHERE!! :-)

@@mikesptworld - Thank you for sharing your experience. I read countless reviews, private and professional ones, watched masses of videos - nobody mentioned that fault. So I bought a second machine - same issue. Then finally, the manufacturer answered my eMails and admitted that no speed regulation between 0 and about 90 rpm is standard, not a fault. German saying: "Irgendwas ist ja immer." - Roughly translated: Something is always wrong. But I'll keep one machine for powerful wall work - and my ancient Bosch for delicate "screwing matters". :D

그런 결함이 있었어? 오늘 샀는데 당장 테스트 해봐야겠군

No purely based on it wouldn't be like for like as the slammer does not have a sds chuck. I have done a test since then with a milwaukee 7mm sds drill bit and the time difference was 2 seconds less 5% tolerance difference. I have found that when it comes to 6 inch bored holes the worx has an overload feature that prevents it from spinning it up so it does have its limitations. It works very well as a paddle mixer though if your wrist can handle the pressure!!

That is very, very impressive then!

@@mikesptworld Yeah so you took a test which wasn't like for like and made it less like for like.

I took two drills, both rotate, both have hammer action, both have similar claims of ability, one is made by a highly acclaimed much loved brand and is mains powered the other is a relatively unheard of brand powered by batteries and costs half the price in a like for like test drilling into hardened engineering grade concrete the half priced plucky battery powered brand won against what can only be assumed is an over priced underperforming over rated milwaukee drill, its David vs. Goliath, and we all know how that story goes, the only area the milwaukee can do but the worx can't is the milwaukee can bore 6 inch concrete core holes, though it did overheat multiple times and took nearly one hour to go through 24 inches of brick including cool down time, similar story paddle mixing for concrete, it overheated, however the worx slammer took on that task with no issues and still survived, nearly 2 years since I made that video and the worx slammer is still going strong, its subjective but for the price it holds its weight really well.

@@mikesptworld By removing the SDS chuck and using a standard masonry drill bit, you have removed its ability to hammer by a factor of about 80%. If you redo the test with the original chuck and SDS bit the Milwaukee will win by far.

I don't find it misleading, with a standard chuck and two exact same drill bits the milwaukee took longer. I know it can be hard to accept defeat sometimes but with like for like products the worx won 🏆I'm pretty sure if I used a m18 fuel mikwaukee drill costing £400 it would win but I think you are missing the point of the video.

@@mikesptworld I can't believe you don't understand. And to makes things worse you're supposed to know a bit about tools? Let me try to put it simply for you. A rotary hammer creates its pounding action with a piston driven by a crankshaft. The piston rides in a cylinder and creates air pressure when driven forward, and it's the air pressure that actually drives the hammer mechanism. Rotary hammers provide a lot more impact energy than hammer drills. The hammer also impacts the special sliding SDS drill bit. By changing the chuck you are forced to use a standard masonry bit which cannot slide back and forth in the chuck, therefore there is practically no impact action rendering the drill practically useless.

I think the only way to settle this is to use both a sds bit in the ph27x and the slammer ( in my experience sds don't sit 100% square in 3 jaw chucks but it will have to do, then also test out the wx380 (same specs in the power and rotation but has a SDS chuck and piston hammer action rather than mechanical spring hammer) then re-run the test and find out once and for all how good or not the slammer is, or just how bad the milwaukee is. Another way to look at it is to say: the milwaukee can bore a 6 inch hole in your house, it is full on grunt and brute force, it may not be the fastest with a 7mm drill bit but it is more versatile, the slammer may be extremely powerful but it fails to spin up a 6 inch hole cutter due to its safety systems. The original idea was just two drills I happened to have at the time, similar on paper spec with the same drill bit in the same holder type one battery, one mains, one made by a high end brand one made by a relative newcomer often mocked and labelled cheap,

@@mikesptworld The Worx slammer is impressive (in fact revolutionary), we sell them from our shop in South Africa. I have nothing against the product, it is just the methodology which is flawed.

@@mikesptworld i cant believe you that you dont know anything about a sds drill and how it works the chuck adaptor is not supose to be used for concrete its supose to be for steel and wood only.the sds chuck adaptor is meant only for concrete and chiselling.the sds drill bit and chuck is designed in such a way that when you insert the bit it has a bit of play to work with the hammer function.the normal chuck adaptor does not have that play so you defeating the whole purpose of the hammer function when using the normal chuck adaptor.also by putting a sds chuck in the cordless drill will not work at all its not designed to hold a sds chuck so it will make no difference