Add to that: IP licenses for Savage Worlds, and Numenera. (Edit: Matt beat me to it!)

If you go to hero forge.com you can create your own hero mini. Dude ive been watching your tutorials and ive learn a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge .

I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me!

@Leonel Ace Instablaster ;)

Can’t beat that kind of service.

buy two sets, send photos of one have two right legs and another one has two left legs, repeat with those they send you as apology.

I once purchased their 'Cinder' red dragon in metal. It came with two right arms. One email and a few days, and I had the replacement. Now, I have a dragon's right arm for my wizard's work table. How kool is that?

That’s a solid move on their part. As a beginner looking to buy some starter minis, that’s certainly something I will remember. Great customer service is amazing advertising. :)

I got a headless cultists once. Looked like there was a bubble in the plastic where the head should have been. Called them asking about exchanging it, and jokingly mentioned that the cult was falling apart without their leader. The guy responded by sending a whole damn cult. I think there were six minis and a few accessories like a fire pit and alter. Their customer service is incredible.

That’s great! Honestly it’s so rare to find. Companies that offer free shipping outside of the US. As a Canadian I am really grateful for that, and it was the deciding factor for me when it came to investing in miniature paints.

I can't click like enough times on that comment.

@@StarshipsSteel correct, you can only click it once without unliking.

Such is life....I think that’s standard for the hobby :)

Black Magic Craft For sure. That's not even counting all of the D&D Adventure System board game minis (which are great bulk buys for people starting out), Zombicide, and Massive Darkness minis. At least I'm rarely bored these days lol.

Such is life in the first world. Down here in Argentina most minis cost between 10 to 30 dollars if not more (not to mention you earn way less than in USA)

Honestly, if Canada didn't have such shit shipping...

I need to search for someone that can paint these minis for me since I suck at painting stuff.

I have to second this comment, If you get a broken, or missing piece from Reaper, they are easy to get a hold of to fix the problem. Wiz kids I still have a silver dragon which came with 3 legs that will never be replaced by wizkids.

If you have an LGS that either stocks a significant quantity of Reaper minis or that actually gets special orders in timely, maybe so. I'd prefer to support a good LGS, if only to keep a good LGS in business. But even the otherwise good LGSs, in my (extensive*) experience, are very bad at special orders. At this point, I _might_ give a new store one chance, but that's it. Further, Reaper does an excellent job of supporting the industry as a whole and retailers in specific. (If you're a retailer with dead stock, contact Reaper about their exchange program to see this in action.) Ordering directly from Reaper is fast and convenient, both for retailers and end users. * I've played one sort of adventure game or other since 1974 and I worked in the adventure gaming industry for almost 9 years.

NOPE, they have hard insides and will chip the paint right off if you move the box around, Use foam or something on the inside if you really need a tacklebox

Well, it's easier to buy from the website when the closest game store that would even SELL minis is no less than an hour away.

I always get mine from a gamestore called The Guardtower in Columbus. It's not local because it's hours away from me but we make a whole days trip out of it, including getting the Sparano's Pizza next door. Can highly recommend the place to Ohio rpg lovers!

Of course, this is dwarfed by the volume of metal figures we offer! Those are in the thousands.

Hey Matt, thanks for those numbers. I knew it was a lot! I backed bones 4 and am eagerly awaiting those. Hope you enjoyed the vid, sorry for totally forgetting the fact Reaper has Pathfinder and other licenses.....I was in D&D tunnel vision, my apologies, I realized too late to edit.

Not a problem but I thought I would officially clarify what you said. ;-)

I am doing $1000 order of bones 4... only in for $100 at present but pulling the trigger before july deadline. On a golem arcana jones right now.

“If it wasn’t for the price point, I would pass” ....that’s the whole point, these lines are super cheap, and I think of a good quality relative to the price. Great models for people to start on, and screw up on....and great for just filling out hordes or generic monsters.

Agreed.

I definitely prefer Reaper's Bones minis for rank-and-file monsters - I don't find most to be especially chunky or cartoonish, the detail has been great as Reaper's mastery of their manufacturing process has improved with experience, the price (especially through the Kickstarters) is tough to beat, the selection and range of genres is amazing (the Chronoscope range of Reaper Bones minis covers a number of genres outside of generic fantasy, including Sci-fi, pulp and Lovecraftian horror, superheros, steampunk, and more), the Bones models range from tiny up to giants and gargantuan dragons and other monsters that tower over the tabletop (this makes fielding a large number of big miniatures, even a Tarrasque stand-in, quite affordable!), the Bones plastic is extremely durable and light, painting them is easy, and they take Krazy Glue and can be cut so easily that they practically beg for novices to experiment with modifications like head, arm, and weapons swaps, and re-basing. All of this combines to make Bones miniatures a fantastic choice for use by dungeon keepers for tabletop RPG monster pawns and for beginner and casual hobbyists to paint and mod - it really encourages your players to get creative and buy and mod their own hero minis! For some gamers, the fact that Reaper's generic knock-off monsters don't look like the illustrations in the Monster Manuals or have the copyrighted names is perhaps a deal-breaker, but that can be a feature rather than a bug depending on your point of view (I actually like the way the knock-off monsters like the "Eye Beasts" don't precisely match copyrighted monsters and routinely make up my own monsters and ignore the manuals, so the generic quality of many of such monsters really encourages me to reuse the models for a variety of different monsters!) My biggest complaint about Reaper Bones is that some of the sculpts, especially the early ones, don't really hold their shape very well, with characters and monsters leaning at crazy angles from the ankles - the boiling water trick mentioned in the video helps, but not a lot with the older models (the newer grey "Bones Black" models seem to have fixed a lot of this problem), and - again in the older models - a couple of the models seem to have had manufacturing problems, with very soft details, hands missing fingertips, and that sort of thing (I haven't had that complaint since the first Kickstarter, so they seem to have worked that bug out!) The Wizkids line has some nice and useful models, but I find them a little more expensive, and I agree about the mold lines and sometimes pour manufacturing/QA results with a couple of the Wizkids minis I've bought suffering from some rather unfortunate mush-heads. The detail and sculpts can be a little more delicate and realistic, but not enough to matter for general RPG purpose. These might make OK hero minis, but a lot depends on one's opinion of the poses and such (I think most of the Reaper minis look a little better in that department, but it is a YMMV situation....) I like these miniatures the most for the "dungeon dressing"/furniture and civilian models. I think that for advanced painters painting competition pieces and shelf-queens that never get tabletop use, metal is probably still the best choice... metal minis tend to be very expensive compared to the plastic, it tends to be heavy and fragile, and it's rare to find particularly large monsters in metal as a result and something of an adventure to modify or assemble from multiple parts, but it seems like sharp edges tend to be far crisper and detail sharper, something like 40 years of manufacturing and a low learning curve for manufacturers to get started in metal casting means that there's a bewildering variety of metal minis available out there, and there's really nothing quite like the heft of real metal to make your miniatures feel like serious business! Metal seems to me like overkill for routine table-top use, though, in an age where so many plastic minis are cheaply and widely available....

AzraelThanatos Also Numenara

I was going to say the same thing. Indeed, they have a bunch of characters from the Pathfinder Adventure Card Game.

I totally forgot about this until it was too late. My head was focused on D&D properties.

I know......but that’s a video topic on its own, which I will get to eventually. The general rule is don’t spray bones with aerosol primers, but there are exceptions.

It’s a matter of taste, but I personally dislike heroic scale....especially when it goes really extreme like GW stuff. But, it’s an aesthetic that some like, some don’t.

What gets me about Reaper are the faces. The features just don't work for me. I'm guessing this is a caused by "heroic scale" and that exaggeration makes a mini easier to paint.

barbecue primer thats made for high heat drys in seconds and is $4 I recommend trying it.

Yea, the issue of priming Bones is a video on it’s own, and one I will get to shortly. I just wanted to warn people not to spray their bones....I’ll cover the specifics of that (what can work, what wont) later in the series.

I'm a little confused by this. I use xenothol highlights on my bones with rattlecans and although they start out tacky, when I paint them they are fine. I'm interested to see the don't use rattlecan primer vid

Michael Thompson So, most times that tackiness tends to remain (in fact this is the first time I've heard that it doesn't) and as a result you quite literally just wipe the paint and primer right off the miniature with very little effort and pressure. After the second time this happened to me, I did research and found out about the reaction with certain types of primer.

I generally have very good luck with Krylon's Camoflauge line of primer, but very, very occasionally I do run into problems with them getting tacky. I have had zero problems with Vallejo's brush on primer though, and that's my go-to now, especially when the humidity is higher than normal.

Innocent_Bystander Oh god yes! It's a nice gesture but nothing looks good with obvious mold lines.

It's still a nice gesture, and I primarily use Vallejo myself(would say I prefer it, but haven't used much else to compare), so it'd be a nice compatibility. But OH MY GAWD did you see that ginormous fugly mold line along the arm when he was showing off the pre-primed feature?

Idk what they use to prime, i honestly think it’s mixed in with the injection plastic because there is no overspray or missed spots too be seen, even weird parts underneath the model. I’ve had a ghastly time getting the WizKids models to a place where they will hold paint like a normal model. Even airbrushed primer rolls off and gets repelled sometimes!

Pretty sure they use an airbrush, since that's what Vallejo Surface Primer is designed for.

Actually, having worked on some of them, a lot of the mold lines can be cleaned without scraping primer off the details beneath; it depends on location and how pronounced or recessed the seam is.

Sorry I didn’t click on yours for the screenshot ;)

I'll let you off the hook this time.. If you should ever show the rust monster or earth elemental in their store though, remember me :P

Lol guess I'm lucky, since I use Army Painter Panzer Grey for priming my minis. Was wondering what everybody's going on about.

I prime mine with acrylic paint haha. Haven't had any issues. What are you guys doing with your minis?

This series is geared towards absolute beginners, so any techniques using an airbrush will be avoided. I also “prime” my bones, but using a highly recommended technique of acrylic craft paint not thinned. It bonds really really well. I’ll cover the few safe methods in a future vid in the series.

Yeah I bought the airbrush because you can't really Prime outside with spray paint in the winter living in Chicago. Almost all aerosol primers and bones minis do not get along. But I found that Rustoleum camouflage spray paint works very well on bones.

DO NOT prime bones with spray cans. Some have got good results with Krylon and army painter, but it has been hit or miss for most. The best is either brush priming straight from the bottle OR (my personal favorite) airbrushing Badger Stynlrez.

Thank you! I know many come to me for my particular method of teaching, so even subjects that have been covered before I can approach in my own unique way.

Dyrck Hughes there are a lot of tutorials on youtube about stripping minis, I prefer acetone, but that works only for metal minis

Thanks. I will start a couple tonight. It has been a while since I painted these and I hope it wont take months for the old stuff to come off.

If it’s enamel paint on metal minis I would try acetone. This is also how I strip preprinted minis. For bones type plastic soaking in Simple Green seems to be the standard.

Thanks...got a couple soaking now..

I’ve been doing more mini painting than terrain building lately, it’s a totally different type of fun.

Only about an hour from me, but I tend to order online.

As a Canadian it certainly is a big deal for us. This lovely country is freakin’ huge and shipping even within Canada can be expensive... :)

Hope it helps you out, the whole series will be geared towards people with no experience.

Matthew Ramsey high gloss varnish

Good call....something I wouldn’t think much about since my stuff doesn’t leave my house.

I'll second that; living in the US southwest at altitude can generate ridiculous amounts of heat in a sealed car!

I'd say test on a mini you're not planning to use--Reaper in particular sells a lot of their figures, especially for monsters, in sets--to see how it turns out. Craft paints vary wildly in quality--sometimes even different colors from the same brand--so there's no way to know beforehand. Some work great--some tend to have problems with clumping when you're dealing with fine detail.

They are dangerous because they are so cheap, a little here, a little there....seems like small purchases, but they can quickly add up, that’s for sure.

Yea, the whole point of the channel is building stuff for in game use....to use minis on. So I wouldnt have even considered the idea of painting minis not to play with.

Black Magic Craft I think a lot of people enjoy building dioramas and painting mainly for display purposes :) and I'm sure while I prefer metal a lot of more advanced painters prefer resin models for show pieces and contests. I just figured it was worth mentioning for like-minded people ^^

Have you tried heat gun, then into ice water? There are also some more advanced methods using, I believe alcohol, that changes the chemical composition making the plastic less likely to revert.

I have not. I don't have access to a heat gun currently. I was unaware of the alcohol method though. Most of the suggestions on the reaper forums were to just boil the part longer, which I found to be unhelpful. I'll have to try these suggestions.

Try a hair dryer. Water doesn't work me for the hair dryer works great.

Just cut them off and redo them with plastic.

Cool, I’ll have to look into that.

I never use the included flat wizkids based. I don’t like them.