Film is a pretty amazing medium. My dad taught me to shoot on film when I was much younger. I migrated to digital when I finally got my own gear but have circled right back round to shooting on film once more. Digital has its place but so does film in my heart.

@@TInyGravitas I totally agree. The other reason, I'm still with film, is money. I want a DSLR, not mirrorless..I just need a body. New. The Nikon D850, was my choice. But it's due for replacement. So, I'll wait to see what's next. I'm not shooting professionally any more, so time is on my side.

I’m not a great lover of those styles either. Got 5 SLRs on a shelf waiting for restoration videos to be made but my workspace is currently a building site! Hah. Glad to hear you enjoyed this one though!

So glad the video helped!

How in the heck did I not notice that typo. Thank you so so much.

They are excellent little film cameras! So good choice!

I see now that it is the.. piston? Of the Shutter release and in my camera it just stayed inside the tube whereas yours, it came out.

Hey there! Congratulations on the new camera! Finding one of these in mint condition is fairly impressive and a treasure for sure. The Cds cells can be a bit of a problem at times but there are a number of different reasons they tend to stop working. Sometimes it’s as simple as dirt on the sensor, other times it can be as bad as a dead cell as you say. If there is no movement at all that (to me) would indicate that it’s probably not the cell as from what I’ve heard they deteriorate slowly and so there would usually still be some movement from the meter just not a whole lot. Another possible easy fix is trying the battery both ways up as the manual can be a tad misleading about which way it actually goes in, especially with modern zinc air batteries which can go in either way round pretty easily. If not those it could be a deeper problem.

Did you ever figure out the solution?

I'm sorting out a Konica C35 currently and it's the 3rd similar cameras that have had the same problem which might be yours too. Battery compartment looks relatively clean but not underneath. If you did see *some* corrosion in the box make sure you remove it and look beneath to where negative (usually) wire is soldered - corrosion likes to travel up the wire which is much weaker than the contacts themselves. In my cases that solder joint was always hosed. Strip a bit of wire and resolder if you can. Might come right back to life.

Very late to all this but older cameras used mercury based batteries that gave a constant voltage. Modern cells, despite fitting, give a higher voltage initially then fall off over time. There's a work-around to get hearing aid batteries to work however. If it's working but incorrect readings, this is likely the problem. (EDIT: Cells above mean batteries not the photoresistor)

Most of the X series from Minolta used felt but later changed to 1.5MM open cell foam so that’s what I’ve used on this one.

I use different chemicals for different tasks. Most often for metal parts I’ll use Isopropyl alcohol, which is the same solution I used on the winder. It’s pretty good for metal parts but I’d use it sparingly on plastics if at all. Occasionally if there is something that’s very sticky or if there is sticker residue or glue that needs cleaning off I’ll use lighter fluid as it tends to melt a number of glues quite well.

I’m afraid not, to the best of my knowledge the less you touch and clean it the better.

I'm so glad I found this vid before going by cleaning it and wrecking it in the process. As I only decided after seeing this to clean the camera internals (bar the dreadful yellow coating) ,I workaround I found around the dim viewfinder years ago is sticking a tiny diamond-shaped piece of sticking paper OUTSIDE the VF, as per the photo below, so that the contrast for the similarly shaped one inside is increased and I can easily focus by finding its shadow aligned with the one inside. (I hope I somehow made this clear, instead of complicating it even more). i.imgur.com/sGCfTLh.jpg

That’s crazy strong. I’ve only ever had a couple of camera screws strip during repairs, but very few. They do make them well!

In good condition and fully working this particular type can fetch between £30 and £100 or so. Although it does depend on a lot of factors!

Hi there! The parts are being washed in Isopropyl Alcohol. I use this for any metal parts that need a good scrub and any grease or biologicals removing from them.

I believe it's usually labeled as a lens spanner or lens wrench depending on who you talk to. I know Neewer do one. The one I have is a bit fally apart, but I think there are some good ones out there.

It’s to protect the camera from me, not the other way around 👌