Cheers Joseph - it's amazing how black and white can make photos look old, and then when you throw in all those beautiful vintage vehicles and so on it really suited vintage camera vibe.

Hi SnowbadgerCentral, that's so annoying to have your Automex stolen - like you say, they'd have got next to nothing for it in the 2000s. Did you replace it with anything, or did you just head into digital?

It's a bit of a gem Ian, I'm really fond of this camera - really must put another film in it but I have too many cameras, not that I'm complaining!!!!

@@GrumpyTim I just bought a couple of new ones to me, an Ising Isis and a rather tatty Ziess Ikon Contina. so I think that makes 120 cameras, both were £10 each, it is a nasty habit of mine buying cheap in the hope they work or are repairable😇. I was very lucky some weeks ago in finding a Durst Automatica [ the one with the pneumatic shutter button, it "sighs" rather than clicks 😁😉 typical Italian ] for £20 on a charity auction, it is almost mint. Thanks, I will be in touch about the Exa, it is not essential that it works, the main reason for buying was the Carl Zeiss Tessar lens that it was fitted with, it works fine happily.

I'm very much the same, if I like the look of it and it's cheap, it often ends up in my collection - I will usually then get the camera working and put at least one film through it. Mind you, there's a bit of a backlog on the "to be repaired" pile these days, but I'll gradually work my way through them.

@@GrumpyTim Forget about about the Exa Tim, I did get it working, but only about one in three windings resulted in a firing, so it has been reassembled for now with a note as to it's condition, but thanks anyway for the offer. I don't care how humble a camera is, as long as it is interesting or novel, one I picked up several months ago was a French Weber-Fex, I love bakelite cameras, it is the only Fex I have seen with a convenional lens. I have maybe 10 cameras dissassembled to one degree or another I have failed to repair or have forgotten how to put then back together or lost my notes, all a part of being ancient 😂😇

@@GrumpyTim The two cameras I got on Ebay arrived. The Zeiss Ikon Contina II was filthy dirty BUT it works really well, I was shocked 🧐🥴🤗 and pleased. The Ising Isis seemed the better of the two at first glance, until I got to the fucus ring, it was jammed solid, it took several hours to free it up. As you would expect they look far from new, but I am happy. Cheers.

Hi Mno Liberal, I haven't got round to working on my Sensorex yet - too many other projects, but the Automex III is still working nicely. I've also got a Sensomat which I've mostly fixed, just one job left to do on that one and then I can use it. Glad you like your Mirandas.

Thanks Aristeidis, using the vintage gear has re kindled my old love for photography - I had a quick peek at your channel, it's very good and you have a very relaxing presentation which I like - duly subscribed.

Cheers ohjajohh, I hadn't realised that Dixons were in the Netherlands too - I always used to love going into their shops too, although for me, being that bit older, my all time favourite was Tandy - they used to have all sorts of electronic stuff, and best of all was the "As Is" box where they sold off faulty returned items - I think it was probably buying stuff from the "As Is" box that got me interested in repairing whatever came my way (not that I was always successful when I was a kid, but it was all part of the learning process).

Cheers Drobium77, and thanks for watching.

I was always aware of the Miranda brand but I don't think I knew anyone who had one of their SLR cameras - I always had very second hand equipment, and definitely nothing as fancy as one of these.

Brilliant Mark, I bet that was exciting. Do you still have your Miranda or did it get traded for newer stuff over the years?

@@GrumpyTim Yes, it got traded as I moved up. I do have some of the photos I took with it that I printed in my H.S. photo class. But the photo of the Miranda I posted I still have.

Wow, that would be a lot of money for a high school student, something like $1600 in todays money. Maybe $3000 with inflation, who knows?

Thanks David, that's really kind to provide such detailed feedback, much appreciated. The shots I took on the camera were sort of luck of the draw, as I just happened to be at those vintage events when I had a roll of film in the camera, but they definitely suit the camera pretty well. I love fixing old stuff like this, whether it be cameras, old calculators and adding machines, vintage engines and so on because in all cases they were designed to be fixed from the outset - none of this clip together stuff that's nearly impossible to get apart without about 20 pairs of hands. I do occasionally video some of the repair process but I'm always concerned about making videos that are too slow and long, or for that matter, not detailed enough, leading someone to try it themselves without quite enough information to complete the job. The other, possibly bigger issue, is that I have a fairly cramped space to work in, and when the camera and tripod are there it really compromises my ability to actually do the job, not to mention that it takes at least twice as long if I'm constantly setting up for the next shot!!! All that said, I do have quite a pile of cameras here waiting to be fixed, and some of them will definitely be videoed in the process, even if only for part of the repair.

I meant to ask David, what sort of cameras have you worked on? It's always interesting to see what other collectors/enthusiasts are working on.

Thanks so much InterkosmosStudios, glad you liked it.

@@GrumpyTim Great! Thanks for your support too. Have a nice week!

Cheers Ben, but you should never feel obliged to watch my videos, that said, it's always appreciated when you do. I've got a load of camera videos to do, but I'm mostly waiting until I've shot a roll of film before I do the video - I think there's film in 6 or 7 cameras at the moment, plus a few that I've repaired that haven't seen film yet.

@@GrumpyTim It is interesting knowing that old cameras can be rescued.

So far (touch wood) I haven't had any failures yet, but I'm sure there will be some sooner or later......

@@GrumpyTim yes. Happens to everyone.

楽しんでいただけてうれしいです。 星風景 - あなたのビデオの 1 つを見たところです。美しい映像です。後でもう少し見ます。コメントありがとうございます。 Tanoshinde itadakete ureshīdesu. Hoshi fūkei - anata no bideo no 1-tsu o mita tokorodesu. Utsukushī eizōdesu. Atode mōsukoshi mimasu. Komento arigatōgozaimasu. Glad you enjoyed it Hoshi Landscape - I just watched one of your videos, beautiful footage, I'll watch some more later on. Thanks for the comment.

Hi Evan, I've just been through me photos and I don't think I took one showing the back of the battery chamber - it's possible that they relied on the bite of the thread into the insulation material for one of the screws, but a nut would seem more likely. Both screws have to be isolated from the main chassis of the camera because the chassis carries the positive side of the battery while the screw on the negative terminal closest to the prism presses against one of the contacts inside the camera to carry the negative side if I remember correctly. if one of them didn't have a nut it would likely be the one furthest from the prism because the spring contact won't be trying to force that one outward.

Cheers 👍

I do rather like the look of them, particularly with the grille on the front, but they won't be to everyone's taste. I think the mount is just called Miranda bayonet, but I could be wrong - there appear to be commercially available adapters for Sony but I haven't seen them for Micro 4/3 and the like. It wouldn't be impossible to design and 3D print one, like I did for the KMZ Start camera. I'd like to get hold of the Miranda bayonet to M42 adapter which they produced when the camera was a current model, but the prices on ebay are more than the camera cost - again, I could make one if I really feel the need. Am I tempting you to run another roll of 35mm film yet David!!!

@@GrumpyTim I have one roll of Gold 200 on the shelf, but when it comes to film I’m most looking forward to getting some 120 through the tlr I bought. I’ll have to do a bit of geeking regarding the mount and see if I can get a hold of an adapter 👍

Ah yes, your TLR - way out of my league!!! Looking forward to seeing that one.

Hi Conrad, glad you liked the video and also the styling of the Miranda. I do take on a few repairs for other people from time to time - it's not something I do full time, so there can be a bit of a delay!!! Send me an email if you want, you should find the email address in the "about" tab of the channel.

@@GrumpyTim thanks for the reply. I am not in any excessive hurry, I’ll gladly discuss it with you since you’re willing to entertain the idea . You seem to take a lot of care sorting them out for your videos and I’d prefer good careful work rather than a rush job anyway

I often set myself a target of "getting that camera finished today", but luckily I've learnt that when it's not going well to just walk away until the next day - problems are usually easier after a break - I was working on the shutter for an old folding camera last night and it was being a complete pain to reassemble - I needed about 10 hands - but after a good night's sleep, I think I have the solution, so coffee first, then tackle that shutter again......

@@GrumpyTim is it ok to email you at your photography email ? Or is there a more suitable one that I haven’t found ?

Hi Conrad, yes that email will do just fine.

Hi Paul, I'll see if I can remember the steps I took: The meter is held on to the side of the mirror box with two screws that go through the two "L" shaped brackets - there's a bit of adjustability in those brackets, so I scribed round their sides before undoing anything. The meter needle itself is very fine and sits between the two layers of the focusing screen, so you have to very carefully extract it outwards before tilting it upwards and out of the camera - I left the wires connected when I removed the metal plate to replace the nylon screws, but later when I had to remove it to take the mirror box out, I unsoldered the wires and put the meter safely to one side. Then I seem to recall that there are 4 screws that hold the metal plate to the body of the camera. I think you also need to remove the rewind shaft to get the plate out - it's held in place by the bit of bent wire and a spring that wrap round the tube that the rewind shaft sits in. I also seem to recall that the CDS cell gets in the way of one of the screws for the metal plate - I didn't manage to remove the CDS cell (didn't want to apply too much force), so I had to work at a slight angle to get to that one. Hope that helps a little.

@GrumpyTim Thank you, that's a massive help. I actually have two of them (chrome grill and gold grill versions) that I bought cheaply on ebay recently (from a certain seller that makes old containers for honey 😉). I thought that if I buy both then one of them might work. Well sure enough, both had the nylon screw problem. Anyway, I've just replaced the screws on one of them, only for the meter wire to snap off due to all the movement. I'm not great at soldering but there's no time like the present to practice. By the way, I remember seeing that job lot in your video for sale with the Automex II. I'm still kicking myself for not bidding a little higher!

I'm still amazed at how much gear the old honey container lot manage to get hold of - it's a constant barrage of temptation!!! With the soldering, if you haven't already done it, tin both surfaces first (in other words, apply solder to both parts before attempting to join them), then hold the two together, apply heat, and the solder should flow into one and Bob's your uncle. You might find that the end of the wire is a bit oxidised after all the years and it won't accept the solder - ideally a bit of flux would help there, but if you haven't got any, you can sometimes scrape some of the oxidisation off with the edge of a scalpel blade (trying not to actually cut the wire in the process) and then the solder will take.

Hi Alfred, I didn't make any notes about cleaning that lens, so either I was in a hurry, or it was relatively simple and straight forward to dismantle. I do remember that it had a fair bit of fungus and dirt inside - sometimes, if you catch is soon enough, the fungus is easy to wash off, as was the case with this lens. I mostly follow the same procedure once I've got the glass elements out of the lens barrel - float off as much much dirt and fungus as possible using distilled water, then clean the glass elements using either lens tissues or cotton buds in a solution of 70% IPA to 30% distilled water, dry using a fresh piece of lens tissue or a fresh cotton bud. Then clean once more with just distilled water. While the glass is out of the lens I'll clean all surfaces with neat IPA. After that the lens goes back together ready for use. I don't think I had to re grease the focusing helicoid on this lens, but if I did' that would have been done at the same time.

@@GrumpyTim thanks. What is the name of the special wrench used to open lenses. I need to get one.

Hi Alfred, they're usually just described as a lens wrench - if you take a look on Amazon or wherever you like to shop, you should find some. There are different kinds, some with straight legs and some with slightly cranked legs - possibly the cranked ones will suit a wider variety of lenses, but both have their uses. There are some that have a single rectangular bar between the two legs rather than a pair of round bars between the legs - I've had the misfortune of handling one of the single rectangular bar versions and it's utter rubbish, so go for one of the ones with two round bars. The lens wrench won't do everything, I often have to make tools for a specific job on a lens or camera, but the common lens wrench is a really good place to start.

Thanks. That’s a big help.

Hi Daniel, yes, you're correct, they were designed to use the PX625 Mercury cell - these were a superb battery for the job, they had a very stable voltage throughout their life, only plummeting in voltage right at the end. This made them perfect for light meters, but unfortunately they stopped making them due to the Mercury content, and by that time, cameras were designed to use things like the silver oxide batteries, so there was no need to make a modern equivalent. There are several work arounds - I use a PX625 battery adapter (available on ebay) with a 675 zinc air hearing aid battery (Blue Tab) - the zinc air batteries have a fairly stable voltage - they're rated at 1.45 volts, but in reality they measure closer to 1.35 when they're under load from the meter, whereas most of the alkaline batteries tend to start nearer 1.6 volts and then gradually drop over their lifetime, passing through the desired 1.35 volts and continuing to fall. Even with the perfect voltage, some CDS cells seem to degrade over time - this may be purely to natural degrading of the cell or it might depend on how many hours/years they've been exposed to light - say for instance a camera has spent the last 20 years sitting on display on a shelf, with the sun hitting it every day for a few hours, this may well effect the CDS cell's performance. The other thing that can cause meters to mis read is their location in the camera - many cameras have the CDS cell situated behind the prism for through the lens metering (not the case with the Miranda Automex, and if I remember correctly, the Sensorex has the CDS cell attached to the back of the mirror, so it won't be the case with that one either), and on most old cameras, the focusing screen and prism surfaces are pretty dirty, meaning the meter will under read. Anyway, after all that rambling, what I tend to do is take a few measurements of a fairly blank subject such as a wall, in different lighting conditions, using whichever camera I'm testing, and compare the results to my digital exposure meter - if necessary I'll compensate on the camera by dialing in a faster ISO until the meter gives a relatively accurate reading. You can use something like a DSLR as an exposure meter, just set it to average metering and point it at the same wall and compare readings. If you can get your camera's light meter to read within about a stop of the correct meter reading from a trusted source (ie a DSLR), then it should do the trick. It's worth taking readings in bright light, medium light and low light (by low light, I mean a pretty dull and cloudy day rather than dull indoor light, because the old meters were pretty often terrible in dull indoor light). I would try whichever battery type you can find easily, many people are getting great results using SR44 batteries, the higher voltage may even help to compensate for a tired CDS cell).

@@GrumpyTim Thank you for this detailed response. You should really have an archive for information like this. It is most appreciated. The Sensorex does have the sensor under the mirror reflecting surface , and it turns out to be bottom weighted so a bright sky doesn't cause underexposure of terrestrial objects. I'm going to do my best with this, but I'm betting I'll have to retreat to a hand-held meter in the end. I have just purchased one of the relatively inexpensive AstrHori meters for this purpose, and while these are early days, it appears to be a champ. Thanks again

Excellent Daniel, the AstrHori seems to be a popular choice, I haven't tried one myself, but I've heard that they're ok. The good thing about having relatively accurate light meter like that is that you can now buy as many old cameras as you like, regardless of whether they have a working light meter, and just swap the AstrHori from one camera to the next.

I've got another camera that's putting up even more of a fight - going to have to replace the curtains themselves - definitely not worth the time or cost, but I'll do it anyway........when I get round to it, maybe next winter.

Well hats off on this one, do you CLA cameras as a service too?

I'm not quite ready to unleash CLA and servicing to an unsuspecting world yet - I do fix cameras for a few friends but the only way I could see it being possible to offer as a service would be to specialise in just a handful of makes and models - often, as it is, half the adventure is figuring out how a particular camera comes apart, and making special tools for certain jobs just to get inside.

@@GrumpyTim I understand, you certainly have the patience in dealing with the mechanics, people on the other hand are a different matter...🤣