@dazhewitt2884 Many thanks. Could you like the video for me please. Thanks.

Hi Kenn, that's great. I'm really pleased you found it useful and you are saving money. This was the reason I put the video together to try and help people save money, especially in such difficult times.

Thanks Kevin, glad it helped out.

So after watching your video I had my cold end set to 48/-3. Reset my cold end to what you had yours at 36/-3 but could not get my rads to heat up, so pushed it up to 44/-3. Am I doing the right thing? Trial and error?

@Kevin Sayers yes it's all about trial and error. All houses are different in terms of insulation, heat lose, size of house and radiators etc. What works for one house won't for another. Give the house 24hrs to adjust once you've adjusted the curve. You may end up with a cold house but that's expected when you have found the curve is to low. The lower you can get the curve, the cheaper it is to run, but you need it high enough to stay warm.

You're welcome. I was in the same boat as you so wanted to try and help others with this.

Hi David. Make sure your installer shows you everything about your system and how to set it up using the different settings available, as in WC mode, Auto Comp and fixed Flow. I'm just an end user like you will be and made the video to help others who are in the same position I was in. Glad this has helped you with a heads up, but please grill your installer. Hopefully, they know what they are talking about and have done all the necessary heat loss calculations, pipe sizes, radiator sizing etc, so you get the best out of your system.

Hi Andrea. Let me know if you need some help adjusting your curve. If you're seeing the screen showing the curve as 50c at -30c, you haven't held the menu key down long enough to be in the right menu. If that's the case you won't be able to adjust the curve.

@@marksawyer9285 thanks. I did adjust it but I've been trawling the net for info and it's a massive can of worms ! Adjusting the curve is all well and good if I know what I'm adjusting it for. Apparently I need to know what the heat loss is from the house? The whole thing is dependent on lots of factors, the majority of which I don't understand! Some maths involved. My very worst nightmare!

@Andrea Gordon it does depend on lots of factors like you say. Every house is different with the level of insulation, size of radiators, heat loss etc, however if your curve is set wrong you will still be wasting lots of money. The lower you can run the wc curve, the cheaper it will be. Are you on FB? Easier to talk you through it on there.

@@marksawyer9285 yes I am on fb. I would be SO grateful for help/ tuition. I'm finding it really hard to understand and I'm amazed that it's all so complicated. If you're in H/A like me.. off surely lacking in help and info on how to get the best out if these systems. They install them...badly ..as far as I can see and then do things like lock you out of the settings! How can we connect on Facebook messenger?

@Andrea Gordon I got your friend request on fb and have se t you a message. You may have to go into your messages to find it depending how you have it set up to receive messages from anyone who's not in your friends list

Hi, that's great to hear. From what I know the Auto Adapt mode works well if you have the mitsubishi WiFi thermostat. Unfortunately I don't have that which means the system would work from the temperature showing in the control panel which is a thermostat position somewhere. This thermostat is located on the preplumed ecodan cylinder in the cupboard in my case which is very warm, about 6c higher than the house temperature actually is so I can't use the Auto Adapt mode. Running the weather compensation works well for me, and I don't need to adjust the settings as you mentioned. It does take time to tweak the WC curve and it's best done when it's cold outside to prevent the experience you had.

Absolutely for winter! For anytime of the year as it will adjust your water going to your radiators/ufh based on the outside temperature.

Thanks Neil. I'm hoping it helps alot of people.

Hi John, yes leave the heating symbol on the Play icon to leave the heating on. Regarding your other questions maybe quicker to message me on facebook if you use messenger.

Good luck, hope the installation goes well for you.

@@marksawyer9285 how did you find the system coped during the really cold snap in December 2022?

@LittleOlmatthew really well. Leaving it on 24/7 meant it ticked over nicely. The house was nice and warm at around 20.5 to 21c all the time but the Flow temp was still low throughout at around 34c. The HP was using around 25 to 30kw a day which wasn't bad considering it was -6c outside at times.

Glad it helped

@ Damien Murphy Heat Pumps tend to end up short cycling when thermostats are involved, which is ok as long as its not to regular. From what I've heard, the mode you are running doesn't actually use the wc curve like it would in the wc mode. For me the wc mode is more efficient as I run the hp 24/7 in this mode. I have 6 thermostats in my house, 5 for the underfloor heating downstairs and 1 for the rads upstairs. I set them all to 26c knowing they will never reach this with the low wc curve I have, but they are always calling for heat so the hp doesn't short cycle, it ticks over on a low flow temp keeping the house at 21c even when it's-5c out.

@@marksawyer9285 Hi Mark, thanks for the video, very informative. I've just moved into a new house with UFH upstairs and down. 3 stats down, 4 up. Our plumber advised a constant flow rate, say 25, we turned this up to 29 for the recent cold snap. stats nearly all on 21, except kitchen/diner on 23. How do I know if the heat pump is short cycling?

@Seamus McMorrow I wouldn't leave it in fixed flow as your water going to your ufh and rads will always be the same temp whether its -3c or 20c outside which is a waste. In the wc curve the water temp to your ufh and rads will automatically adjust based on the outside temp and save you money.

@@marksawyer9285 we have gshp and only use the weather compensation to regulate the temperature in the house ( heating on 24/7). It took a bit of tinkering in the beginning but it's now keeping the house toasty @ 21°c. We have our curve 40°c at -7°c and 20°@20°. We do have a room stat in the lounge but that's used as a maximum temp regulator due to solar gain ! The whole system worked very well in our recent -7°c spell. Great video Mark.

@John Barleycorn thanks John. You're right it does take some experimenting with, but once you find the sweet spot it's great.

It will vary as to how much you use depending on the size of your house, house type, number of people in it day and night, how well insulated it is, size of rads etc etc. for me, the most I have used is 30kw over a 24hr period period with the HP running 24/7 with the house constantly at 21 to 22c. Have a 4 bed detached house. This included heating the hot water to 50c. There really are so many variables so you will have to try and see what does and doesn’t work for you.

@terryrigden4860 You're welcome, hope it helped.

@Koffee the default on mine was set to 50c at -3c which was costing a fortune to run. Each house/install is different so my settings may not work well for your home. The idea of my video was to show people how to make the adjustments themselves to see what works for them. Just make a note of your settings before you make any changes, that way you can always revert back to them.

@kingpin141186 It maybe that the return flow temp was already close to the flow temp. When this is the case the heating will stop and restart once there is a temp difference between the flow and return flow. You can check the flow and return flow in the settings.

The answer is the weather compensation (wc) curve. It needs to be set up for your home as each home is different. I set and tweaked mine so that my internal temperature won't really go much above 21c. It does go to 22c at times but that's due to thermal warming. So what you do is if you have thermostats turn them all up (28c) so that the rads/ufh are always calling for heat because they won't ever reach their target temperature if you have your wc curve set right, but you throttle the home temperature by making sure the wc curve isn't set to high. For example if your WC curve is set at 36c at -3c the hot water going to your rads/ufh (Flow temp) will be 36c if its -3c outside. At 36c to rads/ufh could mean your internal house temp gets to 20c and no more. If you want it warmer then you can start to increase the 36c by 1c at a time and give it 24hrs to stabilise. If 36c meant your internal temp was to high, say 23c then reduce the 36c 1c at a time, again wait 24hrs for the house temp to stabilise. The lower you can set your wc curve, the cheaper it is to run the heat pump. For this to work you need to run the hp for long periods, even 24/7. This means the hp will be ticking over once its up to temperature and will adjust the flow temp to the rads/ufh depending on the outside temperature to keep your internal temp at a regular temperature. Hope that makes sense.

Hi Mark, thanks for the reply and yes it's beginning to make sense now. I'll give it a go and see what happens. We've got some relatively cold weather coming this week so be good to test. Thanks again.

Yes that is strange. You def have it set to westher comp on the main controller? Can you find me on Facebook so we can chat there so you can send me pics of the settings and main controller screen? Mark Sawyer

Hi. Most people run the HP all the time, not on a timer, but at night have a Set Back temp, as in keeping the house a couple of degrees lower than the day time temp. It really is all trial and error. HP work efficiently when they are continually running as you can have a lower WC curve so it's running a lower temp and using less energy to heat the water going to your rads/ufh. You will probably find that you will need to adjust your curve settings as every home is different. Be patient as its worth it.

@@marksawyer9285 in one of the calls I had with Mitsubishi, the chap on the other end, said the timer just makes things more complicated. The timer is currently set to 16c minimum and rising to 18~20c in the evenings. I'm not seeing the temperature on the thermostat go beyond 18c most of the time for some reason. If I choose WC mode, should I turn off the timer in MelCloud? Also, if using WC, do you just say the temperature by adjusting the curve?

@gtd65 Yes exactly that. I use the WC to control my internal temperature, not my thermostats. My heating is on 24/7 when it's 0c or less outside. I use the wc curve which I have set at 34c at -5c now and 25c at 15c. All my thermostats are set to 26c so they are always calling for heat but they will never achieve 26c due to the low wc curve. This gives me an internal temp of 21c 24hrs a day. I have ufh downstairs and rads upstairs. The hesting runs from 4am to 10pm then goes off if it's above 0c outside as my house is well Insulated and holds the heat quite well. You will need to tweak your WC to work for your house.

Hi, you need to press and hold the Menu button down for several seconds or you won't be in the correct menu to be able to change the WC curve. Watch the video again, especially the first 10 seconds where I press and hold the Menu key down and hold it down for a while. You could try changing the settings to the same as mine and see how you get on, but every home is different with different pipe sizes, radiator sizes, insulation etc so it really is a case of trying different settings to see what works for your home. I turn my heating off in the summer as my house is well insulated so i just leave the heat pump on for my hot water in the summer months.

@@marksawyer9285 That was a super fast reply,thank you.Will try tomorrow,will set different temperatures and see how it does 👍

@@marksawyer9285 Hi Mark,one more question.Does Ecodan automaticaly switches from higher to lower temperature curve setting or how does it work? Thank you.

Hi, yes it will change with the outside temperature. The Ecodan is constantly measuring the outside temperature and will adjust the curve accordingly to how you have it set up.

@@marksawyer9285 Thx Mark.

Hi James, my COP is also around 2 in the cold snap we have but while is was milder out it was up closer to 3. The installation plays a big part in the COP and believe mine would be higher if I had larger radiators which I will be replacing with doubles instead of the singles I currently have.

Mark’s water temperatures are already quite low. The worst I ever got was a COP of 2.5 with outside temp. -9C and water temp close to 50. Normally my COP is between 3.5 and 4. My numbers are for heating only. I think the problem is somewhere else. Does your installer have any suggestions?

Hi, thanks for the replies. I need to get the installer back. It was done as new build house 18 months ago and the developer fell out with the installer etc so its a bit messy. It's underfloor heating but clearly something is not right. During the cold snap we were using about 75kwh per day on heating / hw so quite expensive for a standard family house!

@@marksawyer9285 My cop in the coldest day this year so far was around 2.6 (Ecodan 11.2kW, no underfloor only rads on full flow), and that was at a higher flow temp than you have - so there must be something else at play. Do you have quiet mode on? I noticed that there is a huge extra power draw when quite mode is off. Perhaps a backup heater or something? On the medium level, the fan stays fast but the extra draw is gone and it's the best mode I find. Fast enough to get back up to temp between defrosts. The quietest level struggles to get back up to temp quickly enough as it limits the compressor frequency and fan speed too much.

@@Loopyengineeringco hi, I don't think I have a quiet mode option on mine. Mine is a 2018 unit. Can't see that option in any of the settings on my 8.5kw unit.

Hi if you have a thermostat/s with timers, you could set them up as a "set back" for overnight. If you do this, try to only drop the temp by a couple of degrees, I.e if you heat your home at 21c in the day, set back to 19c at night.

Thanks that makes sense - so I’d have say 19 overnight and 30 during the day (so that it’s always calling for heat during the day)? And would the same go for if I were to go away? And finally! I know you’re meant to wait 24hrs after any changes before tweaking more but if I am already overshooting my target temp after a couple of hours that seems wasteful, what are your thoughts?

@@user-kt3ts6qu5m i have my thermostats set to 28c so they are always calling for heat and now have my wc curve set very low to give me an i side temp of 21c with the hp running from 4am to 4pm then goes off for 3hrs during the expensive tariff rate, back on from7pm to 10pm and off after that until 4pm. If you are overshooting then try lowering your wc curve. With regards to going away im not sure as usually turn mine off completely, but thats in summer time when i go away.

Thank you that’s very helpful! Assuming that’s with the cosy tariff? Once I can get my curve right I’ll be aiming for the same. Thanks so much for responding 😊

@user-kt3ts6qu5m Yes, that's the Cosy tariff. Try to get your curve as low as you can so your house is warm enough, but not to low that it cycles more than 4 times an hour. You're welcome.

@dazhewitt2884 The video is to show how to set up the weather compensation (wc) mode so you need to be running wc for it to work like that.

Hi you need to press and hold down the menu button for several seconds. Watch the first 15 seconds of the video again and listen carefully. Hope this helps.

Hi, It makes no difference. When I go into the WCC screen there is just a left scroll symbol above the third button and a right scroll symbol above the fourth button. There's no way to alter the left hand scale and the 3rd and 4th buttons alter the right hand scale temperature but make no difference to the shape of the graph. The graph is fixed at 42C up to -3C which coincidentally is the max flow temp we can allow as we have a calcium carbonate screed under our floor tiles. I think the installer has entered this temp limit of 42C (on a different screen) and it is overwriting the ability to edit the WCC curve. I think I may need to remove the 42C "limit" before the pen and paper symbol will reappear but I'm not sure how to do that?

Have you changed your heating setting to weather compensation? How long are you running the heating for? You need to make sure any thermostats are set high so they are always calling for heat. If you have set a low weather compensation curve the rads won't feel hot, this is normal. It's about running the heating for long periods at low temps to keep a consistent internal temp. There are lots of variables as in your level of insulation, heat loss, size of rads etc that will determine the best weather compensation curve settings for you. Its all trial and error, so play with the settings, but give it 24hrs to adjust

@@marksawyer9285we have two Salus thermostats (one in the main house and the other an annexe). The TRV are set to high but there is no heat. When the system was setup it wasn’t using the compensation curve. I’m not sure how they connected the Salus thermostat to the Mitsubishi controller. I think maybe we can’t use the compensation curve.

@andywarriner3392 Have you set both thermostats up high, to say 28c so they are always calling for heat? Is your heating on a timer or permanently running?

@@marksawyer9285the thermostats are set on a timer so the pump isn’t always on. Set to 22 degrees as 6am then down to 18 degrees at 6pm. I assumed that was the best way to run them. If I turn it up to 28 the heat pump runs but the symbol on the control panel doesn’t come on (suggesting it’s not running). I’ve asked our installers to come and have a look, but they weren’t that great with the install.

@andywarriner3392 if the house is reaching the thermostat settings the heat pump will turn off. The idea of running westher compensation is that the heat pump runs for long periods of time, so the weather compensation curve controls the house temp, not the thermostats. The idea is you run the heat pump for long periods at a low temp. They aren't like a gas boiler that generates high temps quickly, where they are often on and off on a regular basis. Search for Heat geeks on here about running heat pumps.

Hi, every house is different so it is a case of trial and error. Under floor heating has a mass area to disperse the heat over so can get away with a lower flow temp. May need a higher setting on the curve if you only have rads, but really depends on the size of them and if they are singles/doubles etc. The heat loss of your house plays a part too, so you will just have to play with the curve to see what works for you.

@@marksawyer9285 can I ask? What dose +12345 or -123456789 mean please? Thanks

The + and - 1234 etc adjusts the wc curve, so if the house is a little cold, rather than going into the setting amd adjusting the wc curve you can increase the curve by 1c, 2c, 3c etc using the + key. Same for if the house is to warm, use the - key to lower the curve by 1c, 2c, 3c etc.

@marksawyer9285 ahh i see. Thanks. But for some reason when my house gets to 21 the hp turnes off then back on when at 19 or 20.

That's to do with your thermostat

Hi, the hp will turn off if the return flow is very close to the flow temp. For example, if the flow temp of the water going to your ufh/rads is say 35c when it's 7c outside, and the ufh/rads can't disperse the 35c quickly enough, then when that water returns to the hp to be heated up again, if it hasn't reduced in temp enough (around 5c difference) known as delta t, then the hp will turn off as it doesn't see a big enough temp drop from the heated water going out of the hp, to the water coming back into the hp to be heated again. It could be that your WC curve needs increasing a little. If the hp is turning off on a regular basis (known as cycling) then you can try increasing the wc curve. Try something like 40c at the high end. It's difficult to say exactly what the wc settings should be as every home is different in terms of insulation, soze of rads, size of house, how well the system as been sized and installed etc. It's all trial and error. Good luck.

Thank you for the reply. We’ll appreciated. Can I also ask if circulating pumps on cylinder need to be set in specific way? I have 2 Grundfos and Lowara.

@batimarcin22 I believe they do yes, but I'm just an end user like you so I'm not sure what settings yours need to be on. There are some really good Facebook groups for heat pumps and a specific one for the Mitsubishi Ecodan. Worth joining up to the group and asking on there as I'm sure someone will be able to help you with that. Link below )Hope the link works) facebook.com/groups/674120483503581/

Thanks. Will have look and see if they can further help.

Can I also ask if you leave your thermostat including radiators all the time on 24/7 and calling for heat? If yes how much of energy your system consumes over 24hrs.

Hi. Here's a link that explains it better than I can in a message. m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iL5jZNlls9W1lmg.html

Hi, are you saying its to hot in the winter with the rooms being 22c? Do you have several thermostats in the property, or just the thermostat in the main controller?

Hi. I'm just an end user and in all honesty I wasn't sure on that setting but noticed it adjusted itself when you changed the other settings.. I put this video on here to try and help others who had no idea how to adjust their wc curve and try to help them save some money and keep warm at the same time. I'm self-taught on the system as I wasn't shown anything about it or how to set it up and discovered so many people in the same boat all wanting help. Someone asked if I could make them a video, then another asked and a other so in the end I put it on here. It's not perfect but appears to have helped people which is all I set out to do from the start.

Hi@@marksawyer9285. Thanks for your quick reply. I do totally understand the purpose of your video. I will keep and eye open on your feed, hopefully there will be more updates.

Hi, sounds quite typical to be told not to touch it. Mine was at 50c at -3c, I now have it at 35c at -5c and it's saved me a fortune and giving me an internal temp of 22c all day and night. I have all my stats set high to 28c, knowing that with such a low WC curve, my house will never reach 28c. I now use the WC to control my internal house temp, not the thermostats. With the stats set to 28c they are always calling for heat, so the hp is always running which means less chance of the hp short cycling. To many regular short cycling is not good for the life of the pump or your wallet as it uses a lot of kw each time it restarts. So try to keep the hp running for as long as you can, but tweak the WC to as low as you can but where it keeps the house warm. If your home is well insulated you will probably find after several days of running the pump 24/7 you have to lower the WC again due to the house holding the heat. Please make sure you make regular checks on your electricity consumption when tweaking the wc curve.

@Vicki My hp uses more kw over a 24hr period if it's short cycling, compared to keeping it running.

@@zlmdragon. i don’t trust the figures in the Mitsubishi controller for kw used and generated as they’re not accurate. To give you an example, my neighbour has exactly the same house as me with the same ecodan unit and his COP calculates at just over 7! which is ridiculous and impossible for these units to achive. I go by actual kw usage. I know lots of people that run them in auto adaption as they say its more efficient for them and thats probably true as there are so many variables involved in terms of size of house, size of radiators and pipework, radiators only or under floor heating only or combination of both, the list goes on. For me personally I’ve tested it on kw used and the internal temp of my house, and for me it uses less kw when its not short cycling. For you, that may not be the case which is great. Run it how best suits you. Its all trial and error and what works for you, wont for someone else. The purpose of the video was to try to help people understand how to adjust their curve, which looking at the comments appears to have done so.

I run my ecodan in wc mode at 42 -3 and 32 13, it short cycles every 15 mins… ive tried amending the degree’s by 1 or 2 but still does it.. it does not do this in room stat mode.. any help appreciated

@@marksawyer9285 You touched a point that has been bothering me lately. When running WC I suppose you cannot have daytime and nighttime at different temperatures. You have to accept to sleep in warmer temp.

Hi Kenn. I haven't noticed that with mine. Do you mean if the power trips, when it comes back on it changes the heating mode from Weather Compensation mode?

Yes that’s it. Living in the countryside with overhead power we get a few outages and when it restores the system defaults to a fixed flow temp. It does the same if you just switch it off from the App and then switch on a couple of hours later.

​@Kenn Shearer I don't have the app. Are there default settings in the app that causes it to return to fixed flow? Failing that I would call Mitsubishi support, they should be able to connect to it remotely and check it for you.

Spoke with Mitsubishi Service and apparently if there is a power cut or if you switch the system off it will always revert to a 50 degree fixed flow temperature. There is no way around it other than manually selecting the compensation curve manually. Bit of a missed opportunity as this will generally make the ecodan look less efficient.

​@Kenn Shearer absolutely, surely just needs a software update to rectify that. Thanks for letting me know Kenn.

Hi, you need to press and hold the Menu key down for several seconds else you won't be in the right menu. Please watch the first 10 seconds again where I say about holding the button in for several seconds.

thank you so much for your comment. i live in a very well insulated apartment that was built in a very high spec manner .. its a 2 bed flat and i live alone, my EON bills are huge... i have re reread your videos 20 times they are so helpful. my boiler was set by a boiler service man to read on an a compensation curve on a higher rate at 45 degrees to minus 3 and at the lower rate at 32 degrees to minus 3 .. this means my bill for electricity per month is 100 pounds a month and this is without heating,. i have no heating on and the apartment is cold.... the temperature on the wall is not linked to the thermostat reading on the eco dan boiler , i am in a real shit show , all advice is welcome i am even happy to pay u mark @@marksawyer9285

Hi, thanks for your offer but I will politely decline you paying me any money. I created the video to try to help people save money and stay warm at the same time, but thank you. There's lots of variables that will affect how efficiently your ecodan runs. Please search for me on Facebook where we can message there as I have lots of questions about your system including hot water settings that I maybe able to help you with to try and reduce your costs of running the system.

I see you replied with an email address but cant see that message anymore for some reason. What name do you use on facebook? I will search for you there.

Lower your curve a d set your stat high. That way the stat will be calling Goe heat all the time, but use the wc curve to control the heat in your home. If you're to warm, lower the curve until the house temp is right for you. It's vest to set the curve when it's very cold outside.

So take this off comp curve mode? Put it in room stat mode but set curve to like 35 -1 and 25 15? Set room stat to like 28? And it will use the comp curve in background? Thank you for your advice.

@jeniparker7117 Hi. If you have the WiFi thermostat, people say the system performs better and more efficiently in the Auto Adapt mode, but I don't have a WiFi thermostat myself, so I can't compare. You can try using the wc curve instead. Just make sure all the trv's on your radiators are fully open, you don't want to restrict how the heating disperses the heat as otherwise the return flow temp going back to the heat pump maybe to close to the Flow temp coming out the Heat pump (delta t) and will cause the heat pump to cycle. My flow temp is down at 28c when it's mild out and manages to only cycle once an hour. Mitsubishi told me it shouldn't cycle more than 4 times an hour. You may find if your curve is so low that the flow temps are very low, your radiators may not be able to disperse the heat quickly enough before it goes back to the heat pump, and cause cycling. It all depends on many variables, as in size of pipework, radiators, heat pump etc so unfortunately it's trial and error for the system you have for your house, as all houses are different to as in sizes, heat loss, insulation etc. One thing I tried when it was -5c out, was to run in a fixed flow temp of 33c which gave me inside temps of 22/23c downstairs (I have ufh downstairs) and 21c upstairs (rads upstairs). By setting a fixed flow help me understand what flow temp I needed when it's very cold out and help me set my WC curve up. Hope that helps.

Thanks Mark, yes all trvs fully open etc. im not sure what a wifi room stat is, i just have the control panel in hallway, i assume the stat is in that?! Ive set room temp to 28 on controller and amemded curve to 35 /5. And 25/15. Is auto adaptive mode same as room stat mode… i think it being called auto adaptive means ppl are looking for anothet setting. Fixed flow temp for us, best setting around 36 degrees. Can you confirm the auto adaptive is room stat setting and that you believe it uses comp curve for the water flow temps ive set in curve? Many thanks.

@jeniparker7117 Yes I believe auto adapt is the same as room stat mode. The control panel will have a thermostat connected to it that's located somewhere in the house (will be down to the installer as to where that is) mine is in the airing cupboard where the main controller is so useless for me as its +5c warmer in there than the house is. I believe auto adapt uses the wc curve but is more again terms of getting up to temperature and can overshoot the set temperature.

If you set the weather compensation (wc) up well, then this will control the temperature of your home. If you set the wc curve to high, your home will be to warm, to low and your home will be cold. I have all my thermostats set to 28c so they are always calling for heat and with my wc curve set low at 34c @ -6c keeps my home between 21 and 22c so the wc is controlling my home temperature not the thermostats.

Thank you for the quick reply. I'll give this a try. (It was the first time for the installer to install this type of heat pump ... He set a clock programme with 2°C reduction at night, I already changed this to 1°. It does take a long time before the desired temperature is reached again. The past few days we've also had slight freezing temperatures during the day and the electrical consumption per day has roughly doubled compared to the days before).@@marksawyer9285

@@hankie1234Yes people do have set backs, 1 or2c seems to be the norm. When its cold outside the hp has to work much harder and uses more electricity so the lower you can get your flow, then the hp doesnt have to work as hard which also helps with the outside unit not freezing up as regular as its not working so hard, so its a win win………but you still need your home to be warm and there are lots of variables that will effect this as in Insulation, heat loss, size of pipework, size of radiators etc. every home is different.

Are you holding the menu button down for several seconds? If not you will be in the wrong menu, it looks similar but wont be right. Watch the first 10 seconds again of my video and listen carefully. See how you get om

see my comment just posted - this will get around all the issues with WC mode and it is so much more efficient and effective!

Yes of course

In the DHW sertings, there is a section called Dhw recharge with options "Standard" or "Large" do you know what's it for ?

@Ocean King Standard means you only have 1 hot water sensor, usually near the top of the water tank. Large is when you have 2 water sensors, 1 top 1 lower.

Ok thank you. I'm having issues these days when outside temp goes below 0°C. Heating (not DHW, radiators) works well but at some point I always end up with the main circuit breaker tripping, I think because too much power is being taken by the Ecodan. Do you think lowering the max temperature to 40°C on thr compensation curve could help ? I'm currently at 46

@@gorimovies shouldn't be tripping. Doesn't sound right. I would get someone in to check that out.

@Sara Lowe Make sure you monitor your kw usage everyday while making any changes to the Ecodan settings. The reason i put the video on was to try and help people save money so I don't want you or anyone ending up with a bigger bill. There are apps available that show your home usage but they are for your complete household not just the heat pump. Personally I use the Loop app. It shows you usage for every 30 minutes as well as a day/week/month usage. You can see on the Mitsubishi controller your daily use for heating and hot water. It updates every 24hrs.

@@marksawyer9285 I think mines an older model I don't have the flow/pump measurement option like on your other video. I live in a 2 bed council bungalow ( like an old person's bungalow) and my electric bill for last month was £386 before the government knocked £64 off. I feel that's insane and got a smart meter fitted 2 days ago. Now I can watch it just sucking electricity when the fan comes on it zaps as much energy as a vacuum or the kettle. 🙈 anyhow I've noticed with the compensation curve setting ( copied yours) it's just coming on for a couple of minutes then going off for about 20 and it's not consuming as much at once now. The house thermostat says it's 18 degrees though and it hasn't warmed up yet, I'd like 21/22 to be fair

@Sara Lowe can you contact me on Facebook messenger? I will talk you through how to run the heat pump to see if its more efficient and helps bring your internal temperature up. There are lots of variables that will effect the efficiency of your heat pump but we can talk through them.

You explain WC setting you have ie very low temp HTG and that you run it 24/7 presumably without any timer setting to restrict operation. Plus you explain how to access flow and check flow rate, but don’t explain reasoning behind this?

Hi David. I created the video to help people change their WC curve as I’m on several Heat Pump groups on facebook and was being asked by lots of people if i could send them a video on how to change the WC curve. So someone said i should put the video on youtube, so i did. I’ve had lots of positive feedback on this, and to be honest it was the first ever video i put on here so I’m happy thats its helped people as that was the intention of the video. I’m not a heating engineer or plumber, just an end user who couldn’t find a video myself when i was looking for help on changing the WC curve, so having taught myself how to do it, i wanted to help others who are in the same situation that i was. Hope this answers your question.

Yes, it’s very good and by far the best explanation so far I’ve found for Ecodan controller. We have a 5kW ECODAN to UFH and rads upstairs but curve 43 at -3 and 30 at 13 that is giving us COP for last month at about 3.5. I may consider trying out yours, but conscious that we may have to alter flow rate?

Also if the low end is at 32 at -3, what happens if outside temp drops below -3…it appears HTG flow temp will not go up above 32 with your setting. Is this correct?

What are ur COPS too?

Happy to help you set yours up if you need some help?

i need help setting it up @@marksawyer9285