+Pcorf Creations Your on the right track there the 17 inch rims appeared on the TJ2 VRX "LE" then became standard on the VRX Series 2. Until then the TJ VRX Series 1 shared the same 16 inch rims as the TJ Magna Sports. I'm going to be uploading another video about it in the next week or two essentially as a tutorial type video on how to remove the old bubbling crappy window tint and installing new window tint. In the Trailers case it'll be a frosted white privacy tint. Plus I'll do a short update regarding it's new suspension, reverse parking camera, paint and general update. I'll also probably put another video together on how to build / compliance / rego steps for in NSW and let people do their own research for their local laws to get them registered. Any way thanks for your comment and stay tuned.

Apologies up front for a long reply. Theoretically Yes it is possible as I had this one registered in NSW, I have made another unit out of a little 3 door Honda City hatch back. Where I just cut the engine bay off put a draw bar on, Then plated the firewall with alloy chequer plate and replaced the windscreen with a sheet of mild steel and a V piece of Angle iron for support / strength (lower bottom corners to top centre). I just siliconed and pot riveted it in where the original windscreen went then used body filler to smooth it out, Then used the 7 core trailer wiring to wire up to the original tail lights and indicators. I kept the factory tailgate wiring loom and pigtails / brackets that go into the lights with around 10 - 20cm worth of wiring, Then wired the 7 core wiring up to that so all the lights worked as they did from factory. I then added the power wire from My car to the tow plug on the car, So when ever the car was put in reverse and it's reverse lights activated it'd also activate the reverse lights on the trailer using the factory car reverse lights. The main thing to look out for is the length and tongue weight on the tow bar. Which is why I opted to cut just in front of the B pillar. As the last thing you want is for it to be nose heavy or squirrelly empty or loaded, Another issue to look out for is if it's registered as a 750kg trailer but in the Magna's case weighed 400kg You only have a 350kg usable "Legal" Payload. As one issue I quickly discovered was metal fatigue in the floor around where the draw bar was attached, As obviously the floor and those components were not made to haul the entire weight. Anything much longer I'd suggest having a suitable Sub frame Chassis / Draw bar made, Which can then support the floor while snugging up against the inside of the Sill panels. Then pick up on the original Mono Chassis where possible to give it back the strength You essentially removed by cutting the front off. What I did after I fixed the metal fatigue and flex in the floor, I got a used fibreglass wind deflector from a wreckers. Extended the lower front out onto the draw bar by 20cm tapering it in and had it up to the body trim, I then took the fibreglass wind deflector cut it roughly down to size. Put it on trimmed it up and made some brackets using some scrap metal to pot rivet / silicone the fibreglass and metal together. Then got a heap of fibreglass matting door trims from the wreckers to put on around the front then blended the new front into the front doors and up onto the roof to create a new front cap. With the lower metal portion being more resistant to stone chips and debris being flung up, While the upper fibreglass helped reduce the wieght. I also removed all the sound deadening off the floor, Got under removed any brackets that were not needed like for the exhaust, Fuel lines, Brake lines, Fuel tank, Swapped the power windows and central locking to manual units all that sort of stuff any thing I could remove I did. It may not seem like much but I pulled close to 150kg out of it just by doing that. The trailer served Me well for just over 10 years and close to 100,000km, But the last 2 years I owned it I only used it for maybe 600km total and couldn't justify paying the registration on it each year. As it had to be roadworthied being over 5 years old and over 270kg which was $20 a year and $190 a year to register here in NSW. But the best option would be is to follow VSB1 Building Small Trailers, If You follow that to the letter. It covers all the ADR's and requirements for trailers then You should be good to go for registration. The link for that is www.infrastructure.gov.au/sites/default/files/migrated/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/vsb1-rev-6-20210222.pdf What I had to do here in NSW was - Build it to comply with VSB1, The Magna Wagon section already complied with the ADR's it was more the front and draw bar that I had to focus on getting right. - Weigh bridge certificate can be done at any public weigh bridge, To establish it's Tare Weight for rego. - Present it to a Mechanic for a "Blue Slip" Roadworthy, Where they also applied for a new VIN number for it as You can't use the original Car VIN. Mine went from being listed as a 1994 Mitsubishi TR Magna 4 cylinder on the RMS records to a June 2010 build Homemade trailer with Me as the builder. - Once the Roadworthy and new VIN have been issued it's a matter of going into the registration authority, Be it the RMS or VicRoads etc. Then establishing it as a new registration as if it was a brand new Vehicle or trailer, Once done it's happy days and ready for Use. - Once Registered and in the System You should have no major issues transferring it's rego between states, Sholdn't be any harder then a normal interstate rego transfer. It takes a bit of initial paperwork, But if done properly You should be golden. It's definately a fun and rewarding project to do and one that turns heads, As mentioned before be mindful of the lengths and weights so you end up with a unique trailer that tows well. As this one was on the factory Mitsubishi Suspension and was happy being towed empty or loaded at highway speeds, I'm not going to confirm or deny that I know it was stable on the highway even at 130kph.

To be brutally honest I built it how I wanted it at the time (I know how dare I right build something that catered to my needs and it was a front wheel drive unit so I didnt have to worry about the Diff or changing out the rear Axle so it's running the standard 5 link McPherson suspension) but this was filmed 18+ months ago and a lot has changed on it in those 18 months inclusive of a new hole free aerodynamic front skin. But considering it was built with 2nd hand sheet metal under a carport with limited tools, Limited experience and Limited budget in 2010 I'm gratefull that front skin lasted 5 years and got the trailer through blue slip / compliance in June 2010. As now it's 5+ years old and registered in NSW and over 255kg TARE but a GVM of 750kg (weighs in at 400kg and 3.8 metres total length) it now requires a annual "Pink slip" (Road Worthy certificate) in order to be re registered every year meaning it gets checked to make sure it meets the ADR's and roadworthyness every 12 months so for rego June 2016 it had the new front skin built and 2 new tyres. It's now also got Opaque window tint so it lets light in but not peeping eyes, Heavy Duty springs, Reverse Parking Camera and a few other bits done and it's currantly fully in Primer and dent free ready for paint (just have to decide to put it in the original factory colour or in Sapphire blue to match the Verada) It's had all the sound deadening removed which was a good 30kg on it's own, All the brackets that are not required underneath were removed like for the fuel tank, Exhaust, Rear tow hooks which thankfully were only held on with 2 big bolts either side just those were 12kg for the pair as they were like 5mm C channels that went over the chassis rail and had the loop that you hooked into and just bolted on. So it's had a lot of work done to it over the past mainly 8 months and looks completely differenct now, So now I've got access to better tools and equiptment and a large workshop to work in it's now getting the treatment and fixes that it should of initially had in early 2010 granted it's 7 years and 60,000+km of towing later but it's getting there and once it's finished I'll throw all the clips together and up as an update. But it no longer looks rough as guts and is slowly becoming a better beast as I get the time and money to work on it, As the first 5 years of it I was mainly using it to haul general crap round in it from Tip Run's to Engines to Oxy aceltalene to BBQ's so I wasnt overly fussed if it got bashed up a bit but now it's having all that damage undone slowly and set up more as a camper trailer either way itll still cost me $170 a year to register due to the weight and if it was a full car like a Commodore wagon it'd be closer to $300 a year to rego due to the weight in NSW.

Hey Mate, They are fairly simple to make with general knowledge and a basic tool box for starters jump onto the following link attached below which is "VSB1", That is the Vehicle standards bulliton for building small trailers under 4500kg and covers all the Australian Design regulations "ADR's" infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb1/index.aspx Once you have that it is fairly simple in a few simple steps being 1) Choose your Victim, I chose the Magna wagon mainly because I had a Magna Sedan and also had the added bonus of being Front wheel drive meaning I didnt have to touch the running gear. 2) Strip the vehicle down inclusive of the interior rear trim, Any trim you will reuse put aside in a safe spot so it doesnt get ruined while building the trailer. Remove all fuel tank and fluids and if you can remove the drive train, Cut just in front of the B pillars that way the basic frame retains it's rigidity and still allows the side doors to function. 3) obtain a custom draw bar, what I did is went to a local trailer manurfacturer said what I was doing gave them the measurements and they made up a custom draw bar for me. As on mine it's got the sill panels and the little lip thaat runs the length of the sill panel where you can put the jack to jack it up etc, I took the inside measurement of that which was 1400mm then I ran it for the max length of the floor pan so mine goes from the front and stops just in front of the wheel arches. 2 reasons for that is because it'd help keep it square and sills are stronger then the floor pan, So I put it in place drilled 2 horizontal bolt holes 1 front and 1 back through the little lip on the underside of the sill and pulled the Legs of the drawbar to the side and bolted it in tight then I got some 50x50x3mm L bracket bolted that in using the existing lower bolt hole for the front seatbelt then drilled 3 vertical bolts through the 50x50x3 L plate through the floor of the trailer and through the draw bar. Then got some hefty high tensile bolts from Bunnings put them in did them up then added 2 more horizontally through the sill lip so all up it has 7 bolts holding the drawbar to the trailer being 3 large fat high tensile and 4 thinner smaller high tensile as the larger ones do the bulk of the work but the 4 smaller ones through the sill lip and drawbar about 10 - 15cm apart are souly there to help prevent the floor flexing and spread the load from the floor pan to the sill and rest of the frame to prevent fatigue. My trailers done 50,000km like that and it's still going strong with no obvious signs of fatigue in the floor pan, Granted I had to get the welds where the hitch bolts to attended to as after 2 years the left side had a hair line crack right through as I was towing it at 110kp on the pacific highway through Taree heading north when I was moving to Port Macquarie and heard this metallic CLUNK!!! kept driving got to my new place about 9.30pm didnt realise until next morning that I had driven a further 50km or so with only 4cm of weld pulling close to 1000kg so I crept it to the local trailer mob who rewelded and reinforced it and havent had an issue since as they drilled a couple of holes in put some 5mm plate in plug welded it then re welded the plate back on so the front top edge is now 8mm thick. 4) skin the front, I reccomend using galvanised steel about 1mm thick for future rust prevention and the bare metal from where the donor car was cut treat that prior to it getting covered with rust inhibiter and some welf through primer just to stop any rust taking hold. If you can do an aerodynamic front, I was originally trying to get one of the air deflectors off a truck cab (the ones that generally bolt to the roof) and cut it down to size and put a metal floor in then bolt and fibreglass it on but couldnt find one for a reasonable price or even an old cheap ute canopy might be of use. 5) Wire it up using the factory lights, What I suggest is with the wagons try to keep the original factory wiring loom for the tail lights then get some 7 core wire. Then from the back hook the 7 core wire loom to the factory loom with solder and heat shrink and try to match the colours on the trailer wiring to the factory loom ie Red on the trailer wiring will go to say green with yellow trace as an example for the Brake lights (all 3 inclusive of the high mount) Brown trailer wire to say the tail / clearence markers, Black to Black for ground etc that way when you get to the front and actually install the plug you can look at the plug pack which you can keep aside for later reference and go OK red is this brown is that yada yada yada. I even hooked up the reverse lights in my trailer then just ran the extra wire in my car so when i put my car in Reverse with the trailer attached the trailers reverse lights are also activated which makes it easier so people can see your backing up and if you put Bright LED bulbs in place of the normal reverse lights they'll also act as a decent light for when backing up at night. 6) Once it's all put together and your happy with it, Take it to your local tip or weigh station get a print out of the Tare weight. As that is required for the Blue Slip / Compliance. 7) For me in NSW I had to get a blue slip and compliance so I went to an Authorised vehicle inspection station that does blue slips said it needed a blue slip and compliance it's been built to VSB1 and keep a full on log of what you've done for it so receipts, Do a journel, Photo's the works throw it in a display folder of sorts so the mechanics and registration authorrity for me its the RMS (Roads and Maritime service) or VicRoads in Victoria etc can see the progress if neededd. At the Blue slip they'll make sure it's road worthy check the lights and tyres etc as per a normal trailer inspection then they'll apply for a VIN on your behalf etc get it all done signed off install a compliance plate give you the blue slip saying it's road worthy etc. All up my Blue slip, VIN / Compliance was around $120 in 2010. 8) once you have the blue slip / roadworthy / compliance you can then go to your registration authority and get it registered. For me in NSW it's a bit trickier as they are strictor, Now my trailer is 5+ years old as a June 2010 compliance and over 255kg it now requires and annual road worthy "Pink Slip" which is just a quick check of the lights and tyres and basic quick visual insoection and done then I can re register it again. It's a Pain in the bum having an annual road worthy on it now but on the other hand it could be the saving grace since it now does very little kays each year (less then 1000km a year) that one trip to the mechanic a year may mean the difference of a safe trip or having a wheel bearing lock up on me at 110kph because I may have missed something that the mechanics picked up. So they seem daunting to do but if you go about it bit by bit and break it down into the different sections like Draw bar, front skin, Wiring etc and follow the VSB1 you'll be fine as you know the car meets the ADR's for the lights etc so the main area for the ADR's you need to worry about is the front skin making sure there are no sharp protrusions ie no bolts poking out that can potentially poke a pedestrian if you hit them and make it as smooth as possible. Since Mine now has to undergo an annual roadworthy I cant stray from the ADR's to much where other states like Victoria and QLD that may not require an annual inspection after 5 years then there'll be a little bit more leway but just make sure you cross the T's and dot the I's for the initial roadworthy / compliance. Hope that helps.

Thanks very much i appreciate for all that information you had sent me. Things that was worry me too much is how to get it registed thanks again. My project is on a iload van which i want to cut it where the sliding door close and built a box trailer van out of it with the a frame etc. Im still working what will be the gross weight.

I’ll have to figure that one out as well, I’ll have a look over the next day or so to see if I can send you a private message on here. If I can I’ll do another reply saying message sent, That way we can discuss it behind the scenes. But in short to get you started until then, Jump on google and search “VSB1” which is building small trailers under 4.5 tonnes. That’ll give you all the relevant info regarding the Australian design Regulations, Ie the factory Mazda tail lights are legal to use just wire them up to a trailer plug and wiring. As well as where to put reflectors what colours etc, Once built all I had to do in NSW was get a weigh bridge print out which was around $50 then get it “Blue Slipped” saying it was roadworthy and complianced which issued a new VIN and compliance plate listing me as the builder and in my trailers case even though it’s a February 1994 Mitsubishi Magna it’s listed on file now as a June 2010 Home Made trailer on a new VIN. Once the mechanic has issued the Roadworthy and compliance plate mine cost about $110 all up, I then went to the RMS and simply registered it as a brand new trailer. But a little heads up before you get it weighed, Knock as much weight out of it that you safely can, Stuff like the sound deadening rubber on the floor, Any brackets underneath not used like for the exhaust and fuel tank. On the Magna’s even the rear Tow hook eyes on each side unbolted from the chassis rails, So I took those off as they were about 5kg a piece. Use lightweight materials where possible such as if it has heavy 15 inch steel rims try and swap them for lighter factory alloys, As it all adds up because NSW go on weight for rego. Up to 254kg it’s around $60 a year and no yearly inspections, If it’s like mine just on 400kg it’s $190 a year to register ($60 rego fee $130 “Motor Vehicle Tax” even though it’s a trailer) and now it’s over 5 years old has to have a yearly roadworthy. It’s annoying having it checked yearly, But at the same time I take the opportunity to get all the bearings etc checked. So a minor annoyance and 20 minutes at the mechanics potentially prevents a headache down the track, I’ll see if I can private message you over the next day or so and we can then go from there for more info.

Hi guys I'm halfway through a 93 Mazda 626 wagon trailer this one will be a show trailer it's pretty cool planning them out I built mine to my own taste

Nice, I no longer own the Magna Wagon trailer. Sold it earlier this year around March 2022 due to lack of use and I couldn’t justify the $200 odd a year rego costs to keep or maintain it, But I got 10 years use out of it though which isn’t to bad for my first attempt at building my own trailer.

Normally I'd jump at the chance to build another trailer, But unfortunately at the moment I don't have the time or space to due to getting My Business back into full swing after a slow 2 years due to you know what. I am more then happy to answer any questions and give any advice I can though, One bit I can give to everyone is if your within Australia is build it in accordance with VSB1 Building small trailers under 4.5 tonnes. As the Donor vehicle will already meet the ADR's in terms of lighting and number plate location suspension and that sort of stuff. The only thing that they will be really picky on is the front skin and draw bar that you've done, If you can get the draw bar made by a professional trailer builder or metal shop that way you can bolt it on using high tensile bolts or weld it on (I'd do a combo of both bolt it on in place then weld it in place). For the wiring if you can keep the factory wiring for the rear lights do so, Then get some 7 core Trailer wiring and a 12 volt power source like a battery. Figure out what wire does what like tail lights brake lights left indicator right indicator, Then Match it up to the colours on the trailer wiring and plug. As that'll make it easier for your self in the future if you ever need to trouble shoot the lights while keeping the factory bulbs so you can just go into say Supercheap Auto and go I need Brake light bulbs for a Mazda grab them and off you go. Rather then chasing down several brands and styles of LED lights, Also if you can take any sound deadening out of it like the rubber style stuck to the floor. It doesn't look like much but is quite heavy, I did it on the Magna trailer and just the footwell under the seat and rear cargo area close to 30kg was removed which meant that was 30kg less it had to haul around. Do the same with any brackets underneath if they are not needed removed them like exhaust brackets fuel tank mounts etc, Any weight you can remove from it as little as it seems will make a hug difference to the overall weight. The VSB1 is at the following link for Australia wide, Then it's up to each state to do their own rego. In My case it was NSW which needed a Weigh bridge certificate for the tare weight, Blue slip roadworthy and issued a new VIN as a trailer. So the Magna was originally a February 1994 built Mitsubishi Magna SE station wagon, But on the Rego Papers it was a 06/2010 Home built trailer with Me as the Manurfacturer. www.infrastructure.gov.au/sites/default/files/migrated/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/vsb1-rev-6-20210222.pdf

Thanks Mate, Consider your self a Subscriber up. Since this was filmed 18+ months ago it's had a lot of work done so stay tuned for an update, As I'll be throwing a short video together to show what it takes to get it through NSW rego each year since rego is due in early June and a general update.

It ‘‘twas a combination of Asthma and Weight, When I filmed it 4 years ago I was 60kg heavier. Not proud of it one bit that I topped the scales at 180kg but now down to 120kg and still losing weight, Simply by cutting out Sugar, Soft drinks and being more active. Rather embarrassingly I was downing up to 10 litres of soft drinks a day and by cutting down to 1x 375ml can a week as a treat and changing how I ate (fresh instead of premade) and for each hour make sure I move for 15 minutes so 45 minutes sit 15 minutes move. The weights coming off am I proud of my size and weight, Nope but at least I’m trying to do something about it.

To be fair it’s now a 10 year old trailer built on my driveway with basic hand tools and a now 4 year old video back when I really wasn’t camera friendly and just hit record and rambled for one take videos, Since filming the trailers had a few upgrades including a new aerodynamic front. Completely rewired with a custom loom, Old redundant brackets underneath removed to reduce weight, Repainted (it’s been black for 18+ months now) and a few other things done to it. While I’ve got the chance over the next couple of weeks with the Shut downs due to the beer bug if I’ve got time I’ll do an updated video while it’s stashed in the garage, As that blue Mitsubishi Verada used to tow it has also been off the road since June 2019 and had the body kit removed off it 3 months after filming so there’s a few updates to be done. So stay tuned for a update in the hopefully not to distant future.

@@TheAussieBusman I’m looking at doing this to a Mitsubishi Legnum. I’m in Orange NSW and will be starting it in the next few months. I managed to find a fwd Legnum in Australia so I’ll be keeping the McPherson strut setup as well with some heavy duty springs. That’s for the tips about removing sound deadening and brackets etc! I’ll pull all that stuff out to try and get the weight down! I think I’ll have an Anderson plug and battery in the trailer so I can still use boot light, power windows etc. hopefully setup as a camper with a rooftop tent. If you figured out how to message people I’d be interested in what trailer plans you used for rego… or if you needed any? Cheers! :)

@@LedsyRoids To be honest I didn’t have any specific plans when I built it, The only real plan I had with measurements was for the draw bar. Which the way I did it is measure between the sill at the rear jacking points, Which then allowed 50x75mm x 3mm thick RHS to sit snug against the floor underneath. One thing I’d advise is tie the draw bar into the sills and B Pillars as much as possible, You’ll thank me later giving it that stiffer ride to minimise the flex in the floor pan and spread the load throughout the existing monocoque frame. As for springs mines still running the standard springs, Never had an issue with them in the past 11 years on the highway, Dirt roads, sealed roads loaded and unloaded me can still get a fair bit of weight in it. I still jave t worked out the messages on here yet but will also send you one when I do.