I've done the grease trick before but sometimes it doesn't stick up there well.

Yep the bearing grease worked the second try for me and I like 👍 your idea to use adhesive to hold gasket on!

If it’s still a quadrajet then the fuel bowl is in the front center of the carb. There will be a metal fuel line running up from the fuel pump to carb. There’s 2 fuel lines from the passenger frame rail to the fuel pump.

yes they do go flat sometimes. I rebuilt this engine not too many miles before this.

@@mjmcomputers I have had 3 of them do it recently, I am wondering if its due to no zddp in oils anymore, but if that were the case why not lifter lobes.

I think no zddp is the cause, maybe the fuel pump lobe doesn't get as much oiling as the lifter lobes?

It should stay hooked up, if you plug it the fuel pressure may exceed what the needle and seat can hold and cause it to flood out. It also helps prevent vapor lock as cooler fuel is always being circulated from the tank. If you have a quadrajet, the fuel filter in carb has a check valve that prevents drain back, but the well plugs in the bottom of the fuel bowl are notorious for leaking when it sits and that will cause the fuel to leak out and require long cranks to fill the bowl back up when you start it up. Mine leaks out after it sits about 2 days.

MJM’s Workshop thanks for the speedy response. I stumbled on your page today and have subscribed. I'm having a tuff time with my edelbrock 1406. I just replaced my fuel pump because I noticed my inline filter never filled up. New pump is working awesome and filter is full to my liking. This truck has never seemed to be 100% dialed in. I'm getting there one part at a time. It's sluggish and back firing at take off but runs like a beast at wide open throttle. I've played with timing and I just went thru the carb today. Carb is fine as far as I can tell. Thinking about a fuel pressure regulator. It has a hei distributor with vacuum advance. I may replace the ignition module. I've seen some guys on you tube that suggest that. Anyway, I could go on and on. Any ideas on the sluggish take off would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for responding. Look forward to watching your videos.

have you checked the accelerator pump in the carburetor? also you might check to make sure the spring are in place on the mechanical vacuum advance in the distributor and make sure the weights aren't stuck. does the vacuum advance hold vacuum?

amzn.to/2O08iHv

@@mjmcomputers thanks man much appreciated

+Signkutter signkutter correct, later FI blocks did not have the hole drilled.

Found out the hard way....haha...made changing out the pump a huge pain...

The bolt "Signkutter" is talking about can be seen on the front of the block in this video, by the fuel line. You take that bolt out and the hole goes all the way though the block to the fuel pump shaft. You install a longer bolt in its place. Push the shaft up as far as you can and tighten the bolt, that will hold the shaft in place (don't forget to take it out when your done). Here is another tip. Loosen the old fuel pump bolts but do not remove the pump. Depending on where the eccentric is that operates the fuel pump arm you will either feel spring tension pushing on the pump or no tension. No tension is what you want. If you have tension rotate the engine until you do not feel the spring fighting you. Now when you install the new pump it will go right in without any fight. Use a contact type glue on the gasket. I prefer Gasgacinch if you can find it. It is what a lot of professional mechanics use. Coat the fuel pump and one side of the gasket and let them dry until they no longer look wet. Then stick them together. That gasket is not going to slip out. while you installing the pump. I use this stuff on almost all gaskets. This stuff goes bad in about a year so buy the smallest one you can get. If your replacing the rubber fuel lines use fuel injection hose. It will last forever. Which ever hose you use do not over tighten the clamps, they cut into the hose. Especially the worm drive clamps Only tighten them until you can feel the rubber stating to squeeze thorough the perforations in the clamp. The rubber should not look like its going through a cheese grader. Make sur any steel lines are flared on the ends if your going to put a rubber hose on it.

Is it possible to tighten the pump all the way to the block on a SBC 265 with the arm not under the pump rod? I could not rotate the engine to where there was no spring tension when tightening. No fuel is pumping and there are no leaks. Hard to get to on a old 56 vette.

And if it's a 1981 stock 350 there is an air pump there in the way,I did this job on a lift,what a fiasco 😬 used the bearing grease method.

Yes, but it helps prevent vapor lock, and if the pump diaphragm ruptures it will either leak out and could start a fire, or it could get in your oil and ruine your engine. that isn't likely, just depends on the fuel pump itself.

no

Could be sucking air somewhere or could be a plugged fuel filter or flat fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. Other possibilities as well.

Having this same issue today I even put a lil gas in the carburetor still no crank & that usually works for me on the old fuel pump

I’ll help you find yours if you help me find mine lol

@@mjmcomputers hey I ended up finding it it works great. Thanks for the tip

That's funny, I don't care who yar

3/8-16x 1 7/16

It sticks really well. But the devil to remove.

Ass piss

Clockwise

Yes if it starts to siphon gas from the tank when you unhook the supply hose from pump then just plug the hose up or pinch it closed.

My Camero tank was slap full and just an ounce or so ran out of all 3 lines.

I’ve done it that way as well. I think it showed it in my C10 fuel pump video.

Good catch.