Good SATURDAY morning… Monogram had instrument decals that never worked… I made my own panel faces for them… Made them out of cardboard stock… That’s what I did when I started building models many years ago… I was always striving to put more details in my builds, now we have all kinds of aftermarket products and better kits overall… Thanks for doing these how to videos, HELPS… Have you ever heard of the model builder SHEP PAINE he has a couple of great books out there… Have a great day… CHRIS 🇺🇸

Hi Jon, Very informative video with a variety of techniques to aid us in the different types of instrument panels that we encounter. Thank you for sharing your skills and expertise. Larry Landis

Spot on tips Jon! Decals, however; can be problematic depending on manufacturer. I find Tamiya can give me fits from time to time, but others like Hasegawa are sometimes better. Never had a problem with Eduard. I find the photo etched aftermarket to have that deeper feel. Again it depends on the scale and really what’s visible. Thanks

Hello Jon, very good video, excellent explanation of the 3 ways to approach how to make a good instrument panel, in my experience, I have obtained very good results with painting instrument panels that are well detailed, with highlighted dials, you get a clear vision Sometimes very superior to the decals that sometimes accompany (decals with a black background with dials without white details), in my opinion they are horrible and do not contribute to the fidelity of the model, I choose to paint. In the case of instrument panels with details and good decals, like the Eduards, I find the results more than satisfactory, that is, as long as the decals manage to fit perfectly on the panel and there are no ghost dials where levers are represented, in these cases I prefer to previously cut out the decal and then place the clocks individually, if those sets of instrument clocks in decals are not available. Regarding PE, there are results that are unbeatable and others that where they come with a bland film, the latter are no more superior to painting or using well-printed decals. The colored PE eduards in themselves have a visual advantage. Finally, 3D decals, I haven't tried them yet, they seem to me to give the best visual result, but their value or availability sometimes discourages their use, so I prefer to have the experience of painting or strive to do the best job with them. Scratch, good video and gives you a chance to go deeper into the resin cockpit accessories or scratch with what you have at hand, greetings and until the next video, at this moment I am researching camouflages of the JG 54 in the front scenario oriental and its experimental camouflages in the bf 109, I don't know if you have some details and thank you for your time in these videos

The Quinta 3d decals give a really good effect, for cheaper than a lot of photoetch.

Very cool IP break down. I’m doing a 1/32 Meng Me163 and it comes with both PE and the straight off the sprue option. I also did a comparison with a CMK resin versus stock. I like your approach , it’s comprehensive without getting over complicated. Model on!

Hmm I think 🤔 I'll do pastels next. 3 kits waiting for mottled. Messed two up, striped them for do overs.

Very thorough and detailed , I got some good tips, especially for brush painting! Have you tried the most recent, 3D printed instrument panels (for example Quinta Studio or Red Fox?). I used one for the 1/24 scale Hawker Hurricane from Airfix and it looks really outstanding. These panels need to be glued with CA glue.