i relize this is old video but if your still living and on here and see this this has got to be the best video of DMM mod and explanatory every what you want to call it awsome job sir.

Nothing quite as satisfying as improving on a design--and confirming it. Great job.

Thank you :) I actually just bought this meter, now I know how to mess with it :). Liking your style and thoroughness, glad I found your channel. Subscribed.

Great videos Joe, keep the hard work!

Great video! Thank you very much. You got a new subscriber with this video. I appreciate how you walk through and explain your reasoning.

Great job! As usual your ability in circuit design shines through. The stupid thing is that Uni-T SHOULD have designed this meter this way from the get go. I think MOST people would pay the extra $10-20 for the parts to have a truly well rounded meter.

Terrific video... very thorough.

Great stuff, very interesting!

Awesome mod= you are genius!!

The level of knowledge you have is awe inspiring. Great video!

"Don't do this at home" means "Do this at home" to most people lol. Good video!

The original fuses are labelled BS1362. If you look at the standard from BSi You will find that BS1362 refers to fuses that are fitted in UK BS1363 13A electrical plugs (all our plugs are fused as we use ring circuits for outlets). BS1362 specifically mentions 2 ratings. 3A and 13A. 5A fuses were made, however although they were made to a similar specification, they are not technically to BS1362.

Very nice video, thank you.

Hello Joe! (the text of this commentary has been translated into English using Google’s online translator, since I speak only Russian and German. I apologize if the translation seems incorrect to you))). You have done a great and necessary job, testing multimeters, I think that any company producing measuring instruments could be proud of such an employee! I enjoy watching your videos, although not everything is clear because of the language barrier. My question will be about UT61E. Yes, yes, I know how you feel about this manufacturer and especially the UT61 line))) But still .. From your videos, I realized that you modified your copy of UT61E, after which its reliability and safety increased. Unfortunately, I did not understand all the subtleties, since spoken English I understand even worse than written speech. I would very much like the text version, on the main points of modification of the specified device, with diagrams and explanations. Maybe you published such an option on some resource?

Excellent!!!!!

just found your vid, subscribed 👍

I just bought a Tenma from Farnell, which I found to be re-branded UNI-Ts (I'm based in Romania, bought if off the UK site) and of course, out of sheere curiosity, when trying to put the battery in, I unscrewed one screw too many and disassembled it. The PCB looks like a mixture between the European version at the beginning of your video and the one you modded. The MOVs were there, the bigger fuses were there, the PTCs were green, I think, but covered in heat-shrink tube, and the protection electronics like your unit. Anyway, great meter for low voltages! Very good value. Pair it with a pair of nice testers and it gets the job done with flying colors.

Uni-T should hire you! I doubt they can afford you :p

Great movie. Very rigorous.

got a new one from AliExpress today, looks the same as your except the 7mmx5mm "c8c*" capacitor next to the big metal can did not have any small capacitor in parallel like yours. the certificate says 18jan2017. The Q6, Q5 are the same as well as the m7 diodes and PTCs. pcb silkscreen print the same as wel. .

Joe - as an expert which meter do you advise UT61E or UT139C? Actually I need TRMS meter around 100$ and I can't decide which one is correct for me. So I need your advice.

hi can you help me .. my ut61e error. the resistor part is not calibrated .. please me can you please point out the broken part

Excellent video, could be used as guide to action!!! Is it possible to implement benefits of schematics of flukes 101,107 passed HV sourge test in for ex. uni-t 181 without total reconstruction? Or for (j) ex. in dt-8xx multimeter series (gives a chance to become youtube multimeter god just shooted one video!))) )

Whats the conformal coating youre using named? I know you said it somewhere but i cant find it.

Good day, what about a transistor clamp arrangement before the main IC pin (like Q1/Q8), instead of the 1 M resistor. Could it work or are they not fast enough when clamping?

Dc range is over loaded solution plz sir

This is the video that i been looking for, nice and fair! Just a question may i know what is the actual rating of the ptc and movs that you put in your meter? And also the exact reistor in series and the tvs diode that you replaced in Q1 and Q8? If its ok for some reference for educational purpose only?

Can we get a bill of materials list and maybe a schematic of changes?

If fuses are upgraded to Siba 500ma 1000v and other without any other mods for electonic use only (220v current max) would this work? Would it stay in in calibration specs or would those fuses throw calibration specs out of norm? Thank you in advance.

I fried my meter. Even with these modifications it could not withstand the high voltages from me stupidity probing primary side of a ignition coil. It is the first notch, AC voltage measurement that is not functioning, all the rest of the functions, even DC works perfectly. My guess is that the $20 (plus a flat $10 handling fee thanks to the customs) main controller has something in its silicon broken, or what else could make it work in DC but not AC? They both have the same input protection. Could it be the C42,C41 caps? joe smith, do you have any answers?

sir , This is very educative .U speak about four light green colour round component that is u say asmass near ptc at 1.57 minute time what is that item and how it works thank u

Great work sir. I had the ut61e+ until I got a brymen. What's your opinion of the new ut61e+? It has somewhat better input protection than the vanilla old ut61e. I plan to get another brymen but I'm interested in playing with the 61 plus. I've always wanted to put a proper 10 amp fuse. I removed the stock ones and put a few small sibas in it. I'm a software guy from way back but I'm a hobbyist. The difference between the eevblog bm786 and the UT is unreal. One last question. Are all UL tested/csa stamped meters put through all these tests for transients? Once again. You know your stuff and these long form reviews and mods are great. Why you don't have 10x more subs is beyond me when you have people like Paul at learnelectronics with like 150k subs (who falsely claim to be engineers and cant design a pcb to light an led without wasting pcbways time 3 times to get it right) and reccomend every meter that crosses their desk for the clicks. I just picked him at random as an example. Claims to be a psu engineer yet fails time and again at guitar tube amp kit builds and has to get the local music store tech to fix it. When I didn't know anything I looked up to alot of people as gods and ended up reading text books and taking notes more because learning properly is alot more fun haha. I always regretted not taking electronic engineering instead of software in university haha. Sorry for rambling. Great videos.

Hey! Should it be fine if I just install those 4 MOVs ? If so, please provide me with its clamping voltage.

Didn't the UT139c also outperform this one?

Got 2x ut61e & 2x ut61a; I did add ZOV 10D471K to those "SG" designation as per new (correct) circuit diagram of ut61e (they supposedly ZOV 7D751K, but 10mm fit quite ok). I haven't done those series resistor by cutting the trace though; probably I will when I blow those clamping transistors one day. Fuses were still their chinese version, haven't ugrade it yet to "GS" designated fuse holder. I think ut61a does with just 2 MOVs, I add the same 10D471K; but they have a large resistor in series near those ptc, probably to absorb those high voltage. Why modify it? As per your suggestion, it's not for safety, instead I suppose it's for the survival of the meter. I'd never use it for high power mains, that's the job for my flukes.

Hi great video ! I'm having a problem of frequency measurement of a value around 25 Mhz. This multimeter shows a value of 0 even though it is specified that it can go up to 40 Mhz in the datasheet can anyone help ?

Where did you get those new banana jacks? They look like the insides of female banana connectors that you've cut down a bit, but can't be sure :D

Отличная работа!Жаль,что субтитры не доступны..

Джо,а почему вы использовали два последовательных резистора 500к вместо одного 1М?Чтобы повысить рабочее напряжение последовательной цепи с 200 до 400 вольт?

GS model is sold buy dealer in Europe or trough e-bay ?

unit ut139s place

So TLDR out of this 75 min. video, what modifications were actually made and kept to make this pass your tests? I tried skipping around and there was a lot of tried this, tried that, considered this etc. Also out of all this, I didn't get why adding a TVS directly in parallel with each MOV (instead of elsewhere in the meter) wouldn't be a good thing.

Add subtitles in spanish please

Great movie. Very rigorous.

Excellent video, could be used as guide to action!!! Is it possible to implement benefits of schematics of flukes 101,107 passed HV sourge test in for ex. uni-t 181 without total reconstruction? Or for (j) ex. in dt-8xx multimeter series (gives a chance to become youtube multimeter god just shooted one video!))) )