I have just about given up on conicals and went back to round ball. Too often the conical is just a little crooked on loading and I didn't like the occasional flyer I believed was caused by this. By the way, I really enjoy your approach to making these videos. Very easy to understand and thorough. Hope you continue making them.

Very Nice Video. Thanks for showing me how to load paper cartridges. I'll be gearing up to do that for myself.

In my mind, conicals are the way to go. Not saying round ball is no good, but paper cartridges were that main load in the 1860s, and conicals were the only projectiles used in them so far as I've seen. The Uberti Remingtons are better suited to conicals right out of the box, and the Uberti Colts are at least closer to being able to use them. Now of course it depends on the conical. Some of the modern bullet designs that I use (see my channel) require a little more modification than does the standard J&D bullet shown there. Still my Uberti Remingtons take them without mods.

Outstanding video! Info straight to the point with minimum fuss! VERY well done. Thank you! FWIW, I allow the bullet to heat to lube temp by holding in the lube for just a few seconds longer, and the lube coat is much thinner on the bullet. Also I use Swiss Null B black powder (very fine 5Fg granulation) in my combustibles, 22 grains under a 216 gr conical for 940+ fps from a Uberti Remington Army 8" barrel. The 5Fg is pretty close to the "Hazard Cartridge Powder" provided to revolver combustible cartridge makers in the 19th Century based on my research. Happy, and safe shooting.

Been looking at percussion revolvers for a few weeks now. Very cool that you make your own paper cartridges.

If you want to shoot conicals in a 58 Remington NMA buy the Lee 450-200 1R mold. That conical was designed for the 58 remington. The reason he had to modify his gun was because he was using the johnson and dow conical.

Excellent video , great information !

Excellent video! Im glad I found this channel

Well well my old Ji-ji seems you knocked this one clean out of the ballpark lol. I bought one of these 1858 pietta New Army. 44 cal. a while back n just barely got around to ordering the "Taylor's Company conversion cylinder" but haven't received it yet. I did order n received, the Colt .45 long rifle shaved tip cowboy ammo though. Which I must say was a little hard to find n very expensive - $69.00 per box of 50 + tax + an additional $19.99 for the fellow at the local gunshop for the "inshop pickup" (required in California). So yeah doing what you've done here, although not easy, would definitely be the way to go. Ok Sir. thank you for the video n again - job well done .

Very informative, Thank you for spending the time to put all of this out there.

Very cool video, great job. Thanks. 👌🤠👍

Very, very well done. I'm now off to the garage to modify mine. Your video sure answered a lot of questions.

Kind Thanks and a Lovely job on your modifications! I have one like yours that a 1995 manufacture date. It seems to load easier than the new models I’ve seen. I’ll see when I try more conical rounds. Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania

Excellent. I've had my Remington 1858 by Pietta for over 20 years. It was my first handgun I bought when I was 18. I later bought and own two Colts (Pietta) which I love too. Those J^D conicals are a real game changer. Oddly enough, my Remington 1858 made in the mid 1990s did not require any modification. Plenty of room and loads smooth. I will try opening up the cap ports as suggested and plan to roll cartridges as well. Excellent information and a great presentation. Nice work.

Great video!

Nice introduction!

Enjoyable video ,with good information.

Great job!

Very nice!

A solution I had to this without modifying the weapon is to use slightly heeled bullets and fit them down into the chamber just enough to clear the ramrod I didn't even realize most people were having these problems until I started seeing videos on it.

What I've seen recently about lube coating thickness is that holding the bullet in the lube longer -- to let the lead warm up by contact with the hot wax -- will allow the initial "hardened on contact" lube to partially remelt, leaving less on the bullet. I've also read, some time ago, that you can adjust the proportion of beeswax to tallow to compensate hardness for temperature -- when expecting warmer conditions, use more beeswax and less tallow, and vice versa for cooler days at the range.

Very nice video I use the same method as you do and it works great with Justin's kit very clean and good shooting

Theyre so much fun to shoot. I love my pistol.

I've been thinking of getting one of these, I really wish they could out the box being able to fit conicals. Even if it most likely only use round ball I'd still like the option. Especially for paper cartridges.

Excellent video I love the intro and the whole video is very professional and informative.

Very nice video and mod of the Remington 1858, I also have this pietta replica and it’s a nice shooter, never tried conicals in it just round ball but I’m sure the conicals hit harder and maybe even better accuracy

It's a bit late, but you might try warming the bullet a bit before dipping. The cold surface of the bullet will cause the lube to solidify more quickly, making a thicker coating.

I've been casting J&D bullets for my Pieta New Model Army (Sheriff). I also did some relief work on mine. I have ha a hard time getting my lube to be thin. I used nitrated coffee filters. I had a difficult time loading them and I think it's b/c I used too much powder. I'll try again with less and also a thinner / hotter lube. I used 1:1 bee's wax and olive oil. I LOVE the bullet and fired a few cylinders just hand loading with lubed wads. Much more fun than ball. Feels like a real old time man stopper.

ThankYou !

You can also heat up the bullet along with the lube. The lube wont harden so fast on a warmed up bullet.

I use a 50/50 beeswax and shortening lube for all my muzzleloading applications. I have found that adjusting the mix makes more difference than the temp of the pot. I use slightly less wax and slightly more fat for pre-lubing Minie balls for my CW .58 cal Enfield musket. It gives a nice thin coat, but fills the grooves completely. This is also my cold weather mix for C+B revolver chamber mouths. When the temp is in the 40's or below, less wax keeps it pliable, while 50/50 gets stiff and crumbly, and can fall away from the front of the ball during recoil.

Merci pour cette vidéo superbe qui me permet en plus de travailler mon anglais car vous parlez de manière très claire et plutôt posément

Excellent video. Thumbs up~john

I'm about to get one

Hi buddy .. your big gun is very nice and you did a good job..nice , very nice.. it looks great in the hand of an old-timer like you.. I guess we are the same age and we like such guns, those guns like us too.. new technological semi-automatic plastic weapons look like "fake" and "toys" next to these weapons. No one should blame us, we have habits from the past..😉😉😁

I will make the same changes in my pietta NMA 58 !! Thank you!

The Johnson & Dow works perfectly with my original army issued 1858 Remington. However, my Uberti Colts in .36 and .44 will need some dressing up.

Very true that Pietta didn’t intend on conicals being used. The loading plunger isn’t shaped at all of tipped lead. Round nose works just fine, I use .450 johnson&dow 200gr RN and they fit tight as my alibi and the plunger of the loading lever doesn’t damage the round nose. Sure they sit just crooked till ya get them past the frame into alignment with the loading lever plunger.

Lee 200 grain real mini clears loader. And if you rotate it past that corner before you put in, it loads

You don't need to get the lube hotter. You need to get the bullets warmer.

You can preheat the bullets on a hot pad at a low setting and they won’t retain as much wax. or, you can preheat them and pre-lube them prior to seating them in the paper tube .

A very nice, well presented video. Still, I will stay with roundballs. I might be wrong about to conical a having an advantage, but I have not found ine, nor seen proof they either load better or perform better.

Air Venturi Seneca 200 gr hollow point fits just fine.

Overall, I'd like congratulate you on your very comprehensive covering of this very special subject. Firstly, please allow me to thank you for the service you are providing for preserving our rich history and heritage, I'm greatly appreciative. Having said this I'll implore you to put a less "substantial" and epic intro music ... really it's TOO MUCH, forgive me for saying so. Secondly the fact that you did not even briefly mention the how-to process of bluing detracted from your video. I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one delighted to see you cover bluing in another video, I believe the subject deserves a dedicated video. Liked (with provisos) and unconditionally subscribed, many thanks!

Thank you for this great video. I have to ask, if the gains are worth the work. I have decent accuracy with round balls. However if I were hunting, I’d say the extra energy provided by conicals would be desired. My cap and ball pistols are just range queens, and I use them shooting blanks for re-enactments.

Thanks bud I'm new to u

Well done and thanks for sharing! Tom KC3QAC

I load the cylinders on a seperate press anyway.

I made it even easier and got a 45 acp conversion cylinder. If i need to shoot BP i will use a .454 ball.

Wish I could find something on the 36 cal

nice video , i enjoyed it bro !!! , HOW about a link to cartridge maker friend ?

I use conical in my inertia 1858 no problem.

I just subbed you. Thx for the vid, looking for more info, thx

Hi! Thank you for your fantastic work and video! Which is the calibre (inch or mm) of the J&D conical bullets that are using?

Did you consider widening at least one of the safety notches on the rear of the cylinder so the hammer can seat fully? I did that to only one notch on mine because all the notches were too narrow from the factory.

Honestly I have conversion kits in all my reproduction models. Now my antiques, of which I've very few, I of course keep all original and only one I've ever shot only a HANDFUL of times. But as far as reproductions go, heck with it, convert to modern case ammo

OK, you've made your mods - well done. Now, can you still seat round balls sufficiently? Or does the ram fall short of a full seating depth? That's my reluctance to do these mods. I figure I can load the cylinder and have a second cylinder loaded for a back up... and not affect round ball loading... but maybe this works fine?

Best modification for a Pietta is a crushing machine or melting furnace!

Q: Where did you obtain the conical bullet (who makes it or who makes the dies)? Thank you.

Good video. Question, did u have any paper residue left in the cylinder before loading up another round ? Thanks.

When you shortened the loading rammer is it too short to load round balls now?

Does it still load round ball paper cartridges with the modification that you made to the ramrod

Speaking to conical bullets. Would you be interested in testing some custom test conicals I have worked to put together. I currently have 5 different working .31 caliber, two that work in the 1863 Remington with no modifications and all five work in the 1849. Four .36 caliber. And for the .44 caliber I have put together four designs for the Remington/small colt, and four designs geared for the ruger/Walker.

I've been wondering why no one modifies those old guns to make them better.. I think most people that own them just want that old gun feeling.. Personally I'd modify the grips to fit my hand just right, put adjustable sights on it so you have a rear sight and can actually adjust them instead of having to do Kentucky windage.. and making a smoother/lighter trigger pull would be another possibility. But then I'm a hot rodder and custom paint guy.. leaving anything stock is boring to me.

Will I need to make these modifications to be able to shoot conical bullets out of my Uberti 1858 Remington Army?

There are shorter conical bullets.

the brass steel or stainless steel carcass? which one is best? 36 or 44?

do you know where i can buy conicals if i dont want to cast myself?

Speed of the conical bullet?

Will it still load round balls?

Where did you get the mandrel for the paper cartridge?

please, my dear, tell me of what is made the lube?

Why not use a 30 grain powder pellet rather than measuring 30 Gr into a paper cartridge? Tom KC3QAC

Where doea someone get the tools you had to make the paper cartridges?

Remingtons idea was..you.carried multy cylinders .loaded..and ready to use..not actuly .using the lever...its in Remingtons manual that Came with each Gun..

If this replica model is to be used with conical bullets..it must be slightly modified

Could you not just buy another rammer,modify it for your conical bullets and swap rammer out for the type of round you’re going to shoot? The mod to the frame is good because it allows you to shoot different types of conical bullets.

What was the difference in accuracy with the conical bullets?

so the whole conical vs round ball. didn't confederate soldiers say round ball worked better? I know the minie ball is devastating. your thoughts?

Couldn't you use a buleet starter to push the conical partially into the cylinder before ramming it ?

Listen there's absolutely nothing wrong with ball ammo. When you hit a human being with a hunk of lead flying damn near the speed of sound belive me, it doesn't matter what shape the lead is lol

What i don't like about shooting conical bullets in a revolver has to do with the Conical bullets are way oversize for some older BP revolvers. I two BP revolvers of the 1858 variant. The first is a CVA Steel frame, with target sights. (yes i said target sights). it was released in 1974 as the buffalo target .44. (steel frame is rare most were brass). It is chambered for a .451 round ball. has a 1/28, twist. Imported by CVA but made by Armi San Marco. (they later became part of Pieta.) My second 1858 is a traditional one. Imported by Navy Arms in 1968 was made by Uberti arms. it is chambered for .454 round ball all steel frame. one of the most accurate 1858s i have ever seen. If i shoot .454s in the CVA after the first 6 shots they become almost impossible to load reload a third or second time. I even broke the ram rod pin, sheered it right off. Shooting oversized bullets with even somewhat soft lead in your revolvers wears the rifling out at a faster rate. Tighter and harder bullets wear faster. On the other hand shooting the .454s conical bullets in the Navy Arms revolver, has a lesser effect. Because they are closer to chamber size they are looser. But not looser than a Round Ball. They really are no more accurate than a round ball either. So my experience with Conical Bullets in revolvers has been not the best. I wanted to add that the reason you had problem with loading those replica bullets with 30grains is because the revolver was never meant to load 30 with a conical bullet. Most authentic cartridges is around 23-25 grains. You should noticed shooting a RB with 24 grains and then a Conical with 24 grains kicks more. The conical being up to 50 grains more in weight. Increase pressure, increase chamber tightness all adds up to more wear over time. Just saying. :)

Call me a lazy ass but if I have to go through that much work just to do some shooting count me out!