I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

I am glad to hear it! I hope all goes well for you.

Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching. If you wouldn’t mind, please like and subscribe!

Glad to hear it. It’s easy with good wrenches :)

Thank you very much! I appreciate it! If you have not already, please consider subscribing for more DIY videos.

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Hoping it all worked out for you. Thanks for watching.

Glad you help! Hopefully well enough done to earn a new subscriber? 😎

Thanks for your suggestions for the community.

Not a good idea if it is outside, and temperature falls below 0 degrees C or 32 degrees F.

Thanks for your inputs for the community here. I’ll check out superzilla.

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Thanks for watching!

I appreciate it! Thanks for watching. If you have not yet, consider subscribing. There is twss in many of my video. Kind of hard to DIY without it “coming up”. 😂

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Guess it depends on which piece. I had a hard time finding pieces for the pressure relief valve. Just went with a whole new one.

@@DIYBRY Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it!!!

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I’m really liking pipe dope! Just used it for replacing my water heater gas line (stay tuned for new video to come)!

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Another look, and the crack is right at the ball valve? So possibly water trapped in ball valve in closed position froze and cracked pipe?

They were left at 45, but those are beyond the area the crack formed.

Sweet. I like your garden bed edging. Did you install that?

That’s wild, you had to shut off the city water coming into your house from the street. My sprinkler system connects to the water supply in my house. So all I have to do is shut the water off in my home in the basement. Further to that we have a valve installed in my garage just prior to exiting my home so I can specifically shut off the water to the sprinkler system without turning off the water to my house.. Also, our entire sprinkler system is made out of PVC piping as opposed to steel piping. Stinks that you had to go through all of that to change the valve. I have found that they fail every five or six years, regardless of proper winterizing. But because of the way our system is designed it’s a 15 minute job at most. You did an awesome job documenting and placing this online online! This is most definitely a DIY job especially especially after watching your video!

@@felixsantana17 I am ok with having everything sprinkler related outside of my home. It’s less things in my home that could result in a water leak. If your entire system is PVC, I’m assuming then you live in a place that does not have harsh winters?

Yes, I figured that out. Thanks for the information for the community.

@@jdmb03 didn’t have two that were big enough. Still would not have helped. I could not undo it when I tried putting it into my vice grip.

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Do you have a union piece?

Perhaps where you live, the water enters your house before going out to your irrigation system. That is not the case for me. From the same water source from the city, right at the street, it splits into two lines. One goes to the house, the other to the irrigation system. For anything to get into the house, it would first have to meet the city line.

Wow

Do you have two water meters…? The reason I ask is that in the state of Ma water charges are different for water that has to be treated, rather than water that is used for lawns…

So far, it has preformed well. No complaints here. This is the one I got: amzn.to/442O9a0

Thanks for the information.

The back flow preventer comes pre-assembled and leak free. In order for the value handles to be on the other side, you would be to tighten or loosen the value, which could cause issue with damage to the threads or leaking. Would probably be better to redo the under ground connections, so you can spin the whole thing around, but that too will have an effect on the water pressure. In my situation, I could shorted the line from the city and Lengthen the irrigation side line, which would move the whole apparatus away from the foundation.

You can use both. I would say start with Teflon tape. If you can’t get a good seal, then try both. The pipe dope is pretty wicked, but can be effective.

Guessing yours sits in the direct sunlight and yours gets wet from your sprinklers?

Water was still in the ball when it was closed and then left in that closed position during the winter season. Next time you winterize the system make sure to position all of the ball valves at half open / half closed. That will allow the water that was trapped in the ball to drain out so it can't freeze and crack the side of the valve.

That would be referring to the size of pipe it is connecting to. If you had a 1”, stick with that same size.

@@DIYBRY Oh I see. Have you notice a big difference in cost with a 1-1/4 inch backflow preventer versus a 1 inch? I saw the 1" assemblies for around $135.......the 1-1/4" was around $800!

@@Son_of_Aragorn Don’t need to bother with that if you existing is 1”. Go with 1”

@@DIYBRY Thank you!!!!

Was just replacing what was there, but thank you for the information for the community.

If you were to watch the whole video, you would know that I was unable to open the union because it was rusted together. turns out it’s good that it happened this way, because I was able to replace all of the rusty parts, and show the viewers how to do it.

DIY = Work with what you’ve got. Thanks for the comment and view.

🤔

@DIY-BRY not a problem. I know how. Just hoping it would unscrew to make it easy

@@adobo1976 If you feel comfortable, you could add one so it would be easier for you in the future.

@DIY-BRY i might but it does a 90 degree into the house just below. I don't think there is room.

@@adobo1976 Too bad KZfaq does not let you attach images to conversations.

Would have just replaced it.

Rewatch! Pay attention the second time around. I could not get the union undone. Was rusted shut. Besides, I just replaced the entire assembly.

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I didn’t spend $400. I said thats how much Lowes wanted. I bought a new backflow off Amazon, link in the description. I tied with two wrenches. Even after, I tried to open by putting it in a vice, still was not budging. I sprayed some penetrant and then it did come loose. It was very corroded, would not have wanted to reuse it anyways. I was just going to replace the one value, but the rest of it was pretty weathered too. Now it is all new. Thanks for the view though ;)

Shutting off the water at the irrigation valve by the street, stops the water pressure from the city at that valve. That valve also has a bleed hole (automatic drain) that allows the water to drip out slowly when the water pressure has been turned off. Here is a picture: tinyurl.com/32u9ajc2 So even though there is still water in the line, there is no "pressure" to the back-flow preventer or galvanized union. If you watched my whole video, when I take off the pipe from the elbow piece under ground, there was hardly any water coming out. It is up hill from the city valve and that also illustrates there is no pressure. Even if there was, that would not prevent me from loosening a nut. Union was rusted shut. It is not an uncommon problem with galvanized steel: scotthomeinspection.com/the-problem-with-galvanized-supply-pipes/ Anyways, thanks for the insult...

Haha. That was dang funny. We have some confused people in this country of ours.

@@Mcd5165 like that person in the mirror that always stares at you blankly, huh Mcd?

@@thesnapz54 I'm curious, please explain how am I confused...