A Norwegian knife! Comming from Norway I must say I feel honoured when it gets shipped all the way to japan. The name of the knife is almost pronounced the way you do it. And the meaning is quite simple; Fjell = Mountain and Bekk = creek/stream so --> Mountaincreek. I hope that your Helle will serve you well. If you have a question concerning Scandinavian knives,names or anything else, I am at your service. Thank you for the all the uploads, they are always a treat to watch.

after stropping, I luv the way your blades just sink into the wood like a stick of butter.. luv dem x-rays too.. nice buy!

he keeps these short and sweet. Respect brother.

Thank you for the video. The X-ray pictures were especially interesting--I had heard that the Mora Bushcraft had the same tang as the Mora 2000, however, I wasn't sure if this was true only for the blades that were ground the same as the Mora 2000, such as the Bushcraft Forest/Signal, or true of all the new Bushcraft line. I'm glad that they all have the larger tang...I will feel better about batoning with mine now. Great video...thanks again.

I think this video is old one of mine. Since then I have used Mora Bushcraft Force quite often and it is now a must knife for me in the woods. The handle of Fjellbekk was nicely hand filling. But its laminated stainless steel was extremely soft. I figured it out even later. 12C27 is a better steel than Helle's laminated SS. Thanks.

I use a regular cushioned polishing fingernail to convex the little edge of my mora 780 triflex, it gets twice as sharp than factory edge, and it's easier to maintain than stone sharpening, and it costs about $1.00 each!

Yes, i didnt know the name. the design of this blade would make sense if i wanted to sharpen it to the very heel of edge with a round steel or ceramic. Thank you for your kind response.

i really like the look of this knife, i have a triflex and a carbon companion but i think i'll send for one of these next week,

@traderjoes I guess it's because Scandinavian people have never batoned wood with their knives in their history. Japanese traditional knives are not full tang, too. We have lots of thin dry wood in mountains. Maybe it's because the trees in Japan is much shorter than America. Scandinavian environment seems to be the same as Japan. The full tang knife is mostly needed when batoned on its handle I think. In regular bushcraft job the full tang construction can just add the weight. Thanks.

@TheBeebopper Thank you for your comment. I have known that thin knives are not good at wood cutting. What you say can be a reason. In my next coming video the Helle cuts wood very well and how it cuts wood is different from others. If you cannot notice it on the video, I felt it obviously myself. Helle's blade seems to have some secret factor. It might be a handle though. Anyways my complaint can be solved easily, and I didn't feel any pain at all on my thumb in the wood cut test. Thanks.

Great video. Thanks for the x rays and microscopic views. Very enlightening. I've owned Helle Knives but never bought a Mora. I said "Sold" as you showed the reverse cutting with the Mora. Going to pick one up.

virtuovice The design of the Fjellbekk is traditional to Scandinavian and Slavic knives. A handle is made from horn or wood. Then a hole is drilled or burned in the handle with hot iron. Then the tang is stuck into the hole in the handle and secured with glue. It's a very reliable design for small and medium knives, but is unsuitable for chopping or batoning. Greetings from Poland from a fellow doc.

I have a lot of time for helle knifes.The Fjellbekk.looks like a good hunter..

More precisely the steel in the "Bush craft Force" is sanvik 12c27 (about same BRKT uses) The triflex steel (from frost mora) is not laminated steel its differential tempered steel which means that the egde is about 59HRC while the spine is softer (45-50 maybe, I am not sure about the hardness in the spine but it is softer than the egde)

I´ve got the mora knife. Great knife and you sir make great reviews! Subscribed. Keep on the great work.

Mori knives are very good and provide a good usable knife at a great price. ( This sounds like a bit like an advert). I have a V shaped scar on the back of my hand which testifies to the sharpness of Mori knives and my own carelessness...

to release the belt hook before you reverse the belt support you must push under the axis of the belt hook and then turn it around, then it will release it from the sheath Ihave the triflex and it has the same sheath

@traderjoes Also, I believe Scandinavian puukko-style knives do not have a full tang because it is very cold in those regions, and exposed metal is very cold in the winter time. I generally prefer a "90% tang," as it is completely enclosed eliminating shock/temperature transmission, and can be made in a more ergonomic shape. With materials like micarta and g10, however, this is impossible, as they only come in slabs. Moras are much stronger than you would think--it would take some pretty extreme

@freerunnin100 It's a very thin blade and its scandi bevel angle is very small near the limit. So it has a micro convex bevel from the factory and it is still very sharp. Thanks.

The tang construction in frost mora knife is tough enough. I have tried bending the 2 mora's (plastic handled versions) to the breaking point and both times it was the blade that broke and not the tang just inside the handle. You could have a look at my breaking/flexing test of mora 511 on my channel (I have done similar test with the enzo trapper O1 tool steel)

Thanks for the x-rays. I was wondering about tang shape in the Fjellbekk and knowing the abuse I put my knives through when I'm out this has me a bit worried. Very helpful, thanks.

Domo arrigato gosaimashta ! thanx very much indeed ! i was wondering about the construction of the fjellbekk, and your review is the best information available. outstanding ! enjoyed the x-ray very much. if i want the knife sanitary, i need to fill the space with epoxy, its glued anyway. but i would prefer a precise end of edge like the beckers have, halfround backcut at the end. should be an advantage when sharpening on stone. do you have any ideas about that?

I love my moras. Especially my mora 711

@virtuovice I believe the 2080 Triflex has the same basic shape as the Stainless Mora Bushcraft, however, for some reason Mora apparently made the stainless version's blade a tiny bit wider? Why I'm not sure, but this is probably where the little extra belly on the stainless version comes from.

I think so too. Helle's laminated stainless steel is the softest of all the knife steels while it doesn't chip. But Temagami's carbon steel is farily nice in my experience. Thanks.

I guess you are saying about the sharpening choil at the very heel of the edge. I don't use the heel edge at all and I leave it dull during water stone sharpening rather than wounding the precious stones. If you need a sharp edge to the heel portion, the sharpening choil will be needed theoretically. Thanks.

two top knives . the top ten list

@Crackedblade Thank you for your knowledge. Helle is special. I will prove it in the next video which I am uploading now. Helle is different from other knives.

@virtuovice Maybe, I assumed its just cheaper to manufacture as well. But you are right, many of the Japanese chef knives and even a few of the ones you have demonstrated also are rat tang knives. I have always preferred a full tang knife in any variety of any knife I purchase, for whatever purpose the knife is intended, even if its not considered "necessary". Id like to see, and have never seen a durability test of the Mora Clipper type knives for the stress of battoning. I'd like to see it

Great video- as always...keep it up.

@vicklemos It sounds good! Thank you. I ordered a Bark River white compound from the US for finer polishing.

@lmglange Thank you for sharing your precise knowledge. I have some experience with 12c27 and I know it is easy to go razor sharp and happen to make micro burrs but easy to restore on my Bravo Necker2. I like that character of this steel. And the Triflex mechanism is very interesting. If your "tempered" means heat treat, it seems the same as Japanese sword heat treat. Anyways I get to love Mora more. Thanks!

@abunjahal Thanks. Surely looks scary I noticed on the video, but I am used to this way and the edge direction is against the stropping motion.

@enjoiorange It has held up without any problem. I have rather depended on this knife in darkness or coldness. It's light weight and comes with a good leather sheath, so very easy to carry. Its handle is a bit thick in my hunting holding, but its blade shape is great in deer dressing. Thank you!

Another great review. Thank you.

Really found this video helpful, thanks!

@Timothius82 I have little experience on Scandi knives, but it is sure that Scandi sharpening takes 10 minutes, and convex stropping takes 2 minutes. And the sharpness is even between the two. If there was no advantage on Scandi knives in use, I wouldn't need a Scandi knife. I don't think it is tricky to keep the convex knife perfect, but it is very easy. Thanks.

@wcropp1 continued batoning to break one, especially one of the ones with a longer/wider tang such as the one shown. They can pretty much do all the batoning you'd ever really realistically need in a survival type situation or whatever--they're not ideal if you want to split logs wider than the blade is long for a large fire, or as your only wood splitting tool in the winter time when you need lots of firewood. Anything short of that they should handle fine.

I would real learn a lot if you were to show how to regrind the knives on video:-). I enjoy your style of videos!!

that helle comes with a verry nice sheath

@secretsquirrell13 Yes, I have had an experience of Kelam Puukko. Which worked very well on a deer. I uploaded a video on the Kelam Puukko yesterday. Thank you!

Perhaps the reason the Helle knife's name sounds weird is because in the Scandinavian languages the letter j is pronounced like a letter y would be pronounced in English.

@pilotmonkey Mora edge is the sharpest out of the box of all factory made knives. If you like the 2080 handle, you will never need other knives at all. But I personally don't like my Bushcraft Force handle. I feel it's soft and sticky. I like wood handle very much. Thank you!

I'm not Norwegian, but I think Fjellbekk means "Mountain stream". Happy to see swedish knives are so famous!

Now Mora has two kinds of thickness. The 3.2mm thick Bushcraft both in SS and in Carbon has a micro bevel. Please be careful. It should be ground off if you need the Scandi sharpness. Anyway the edge angle of 3.2mm thick versions is 5 degrees larger inclusive than regular thin versions even after removing its micro bevel. Thanks.

I wonder why so many Norwegian knives are not full tang nor go all the way though the handle? I love their steels, but wonder why they seem to prefer this construction when its so obvious why the full tang is preferred.

@stefanwolf88 Surely some guy recommended me the Triflex. But the Bushcraft 2080 Triflex looked to have a bit shallow belly curvature for deer dressing, so I didn't get it. If my judgment was wrong and they have the same blade shape, I will have to regret. Thank you.

@lmglange Your channel is very interesting! And your knife is scary sharp. Thank you for sharing!

The Mora is one the best knives for the money here in the UK, it has its limitations but its only £19.... a really good back up blade to have..... you can see the different types of Mora & Helle that we can buy in this country at heinnie.com.... worth a look.. great vid as usual

if you want to know exactly: the mora should be made of 12c27 sandvik stainless steel.

the blade shape of the fjellbekk is awesome, have you had any experience with kellam knives?.......thanks.

Have you ever experienced chipping on a Scandinavian edge from cutting bones? What about from a 3v Scandinavian cutting bones? What about 3v convex cutting bones?

Think maybe the hollow spots are filled with epoxy for no give, as wood gives or dents, especially with thin stock. Why these style knives usually have a ferrule. I've been thinking of getting a full tang Helle but not sure on the edge retention. As always I like your unique insight on knives etc, thx.

great review thanks I'll stay away from Helle tho & stick to full tang knives made from files

which type of edge requires more maintenance, the scandi zero grind or the convex edge? it seems like the scandi might dull quicker and require a lot of grinding, but the convex is a little trickier to keep perfect. what do you think?

How has that helle held up? those gaps in the handle worried me.

hmmmmmmmmm

wtf happened to your nail?