‼ *IMPORTANT INFO* ‼ I'll be keeping this pinned comment updated with FAQ's about this project, kit, video, etc; so be sure to click 'read more'. *Q: How much did this system cost/Where can I get more info about the parts in this system?* A: Check the kit that we've put together for up-to-date pricing and more info over in our store: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-motorhome-electrical-upgrade-540ah-batteries-multiplus-3k-12v-1200w-solar-orion-12-12-30/ *Q: What If I want a system like this, but want a different solar configuration?* A.1: Check out this 'base kit' in our store: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/ A.2: Add whatever solar charging setup you like from these options: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/battery-bank-voltage-12v/ A.3: Then get your batteries direct from Battle Born. Use code 'explorist' at checkout for $50 off per battery: battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67 *Q: I don't want to DIY. Can you install this system for me?* A: We don't offer installation services at EXPLORIST.life as our gig is making these videos that teaches you how to do it yourself. BUT... we have a network of installers that we have trained to install our kits/systems/designs that you can hire. Contact any of them directly for more info: explorist.life/find-a-certified-installer/

I absolutely adore my son and sweet DIL. You two are AMAZING. I loved watching you and your crew work on the new rig. Thank you for your dedication and hard work. And thank you for your patience while you taught me how everything functions. Can't wait to get back to Colorado, my upgraded rv, all of my grandanimals and my kiddos. ❤

Your Mother Is Proud Of You 💗. We Are Super Proud Of You ❤.

wow, I have been watching almost nonstop for a couple of days and I just finally figured out the random beeps I keep hearing.

Best RV solar channel around!

Thank you! Finally, someone to talk about the BIM switch and what to do with it. I have watched a bunch of videos on adding a DC to DC charger, but nobody mentions how to handle the flow from the alternator directly. This has been on my mind from the beginning. All I ever saw was how to add a second channel to charge the coach battery and nothing on the preventing the alternator from continuing on the original channel.

The blue cable ducting with integrated isolator switch makes this install look extra neat.

I have literally watched all of your videos, and they never seem to get boring. Everything you both do are top notch, and greatly appreciate love watching you both perform your work. Someday I wish to have a system like this on my older 5th wheel. Keep up the great videos guy/ladies, 😊

This was an "AWESOME" video!!! Thank you for showing us all of the details.

has to be no doubt the best 12v electrical videos out there!

Your mother is very proud/ fortunate to have such a literally a genius ! I have watched 100 s of solar electric systems , no body on the planet does it better than and your wife and your team , including other channel’s that have giant subscribers.

Great video

Great, to say the least!

Thats our next rig. Might need to make an appointment to do ours. Great work. Thanks Don from California

High standards! nice work.. fantastic video with tons of information..I love how you guys go thru everything together.. its fun to see how you repeat the exact same process over and over.. it certainly reenforces your expertise and what just works the best.. thank you..

Great job and video thank you. Charging a dead or weak battery with the alternator has always been a problem.

Very neat installation

Very nicely done! Excellent job by you both explaining the process in detail, and both physically doing the work. Very clean installation too.

It's like watching art at work!

I love your videos and have used them to install 3 full systems now with great success. I wanted to forward on an idea that I used for my personal system with regard to solar panel install on the roof. I decided to use shallow super strut channel to attach the panels. This allowed me to use far fewer (although larger) attachment points to the roof itself and still maintain a low profile. This then allows me to remove/install/move solar panels as I want without needing to drill new holes or fill/seal old ones. All the hardware is available at your typical "Big Box" hardware stores and didn't cost much. I used 1/4" x 1/2" well nuts and lap sealant for the attachment point of the strut channel and made sure that it was attached to the trusses of the roof whenever possible. You can then use cone nuts and middle or end solar brackets to attach to the strut channel. It has worked perfect for nearly 3 years now. Just a thought!

Great Info 👍

Great video Nate & Stef, always so well explained you guys do such a great job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, greatly appreciated. Will help with my class c install as I’m still a few components short and moving forward your store will help with that process.

Hey Ryan - nice job on the RV upgrade. I'm sure your Mom is very thankful for all your hard work. This system will be very nice for her! I recently added an Orion 12:12 | 30 to my sailboat and found it very helpful to add a 1/4" aluminum backing plate with spacers between the aluminum plate and the mounting surface. These Orion chargers can get pretty hot and the added head sync of the aluminum plate with the air gap between the mounting surface really helps to keep the charger cool maximizing it's performance. Just a tip I picked up from another KZfaqr that I thought would be helpful to mention.

Excellent content

I'm totally impressed with ALL of your knowledge of Solar power and electrical setups. The main reason I found your channel is because I've been doing research on adding solar power to my 2019 Jayco Redhawk SE 22C which is solar prep. I also have lead acid battery in the same location and also the same converter charger. At the moment I don't know 'how' much solar will need but I will be checking your videos you put up.. If you have a specific video I should view please let me know...Thank You and subscribed.

So the DC to DC charger is optional, but the isolator needs to remain switched off unless needed for emergency starts?

Great video thank you and if no one has mentioned it yet the factory inverter is behind the TV you just remove the small panel where the coax comes through

Nice, good job.

On our wish list, thank you for work!

Excellent video, as always. I seem to glean at least one new idea from every one of your videos. This one gave me an idea of how to use your battery relocation kit and an Orion to clean up the factory battery location on my fifth wheel camper. It has several of those temporary breakers all connected together with a "buss bar", one of which is a 40amp breaker for the charging coming thru the 7 pin connector. I think I will remove the one breaker and place an Orion in its place. The factory battery location is directly under these breakers so I will use the relocation studs as intended and have them mounted next to the Orion so I can keep those other breakers connected and powered up.

This was very enjoyable! Fantastic job on the install.

really nice install, I would definitely upgrade locks for storage bay (most of them are 2-3 master keys) and try and put batteries in the living area to keep them warm or duct from living into there. I am a huge fan of Solar Rails on Roofs instead of mounting panels directly to the roof, about 1/5th the amount of screws and you have an upgrade path and ability to layer/nest panels.

I remember that video! 👏 👏

I like your methodology. Thank you.

Perfect explanation, as always 👌

Once again a great video thanks!👍

Hi, it is worth noting that if your lifepo4 battery bank can’t handle the surge of starting the engine motor via its lead acid battery, using the emergency jump switch is a horrible idea if you turn the ignition on at the same time. It has trashed a few banks per the solar group. Your bank is large enough this may not be an issue, but for individuals with one or two 100ah lifepo4 it could be. Worth noting at least.

This build makes running the generator sort of unnecessary, but the way this is configured, the starting load of the generator would go through the 150amp fuse. Seems like there is potential to blow that fuse when starting the generator since it probably pulls that many amps to crank?

I LOVE watching your channel. I have learned so much. I'm an RVing Mom with a new Class C too. I just had 2 100AH LifePo4s installed under the stairs. I have searched the internet for 3 days trying to find out how to DISABLE alternator charging.( I picked the wrong installers and they had no idea.) I will just charge from shore and generator for now. Maybe solar in the future. If I disconnect the red wire (or is it the yellow wire to the dash?) from the isolator relay/trombetta and tape it up will that do it? I have a portable jump box and don't need a switch. I was SO CLOSE to getting my answer but there just wasn't enough detail in this video. Thanks to you I have a Victron 712 and I LOVE IT! No more dead house battery for me! :)

Awesome and detailed upgrade! I have a 25R model. Jayco says the chassis alternator does not charge and has not charged the house batteries since 2021 or before. There is no connection between the chassis and house batteries unless the dash button is pushed. If this is true is that switch you put in actually needed? Do I have to worry about my alternator getting fried trying to charge the lithium house battery I plan on installing? I think Jayco tech is giving bad info. 😢

Another great video thank you

Another great video; however, if it was my mom, I would incorporate uploading the Info into the Victron VRM portal. That way, you would have remote access (with Mom's internet) to routinely monitor, tweak, troubleshoot the upgraded electrical system on your mother's RV.

You could Connect the Starter battery also to the shunt

Thanks!

Just found your channel. This is a marvelous step by step on Solar/LiFE4 upgrade for a Class C. The one thing I could not find is how much does all this weigh. I know some of these Entegra Odyssey RVs in particular have very limited cargo capacity and I was trying to figure out how this install would impact overall weight (after removing the small fridge and OEM battery). I was starting to work through the parts list to try to come up with that number myself, but thought it would be worth asking first. Having a hard time coming up with some of the weights of the individual components.

This is really a well done and informative video. Thank you for making it. May I ask why a BMS isn’t necessary? Would it be if a different type of battery were used?

One thing they didn’t mention in the video regarding the emergency jump switch used to power the starter motor from the on board batteries in case of an emergency. If a 24v battery setup is used to power a 24v inverter. Then a separate 12 volt battery is necessary as the starter motor is 12v powered and the cable size must be suitable for yhe current draw.

Hope you can someday do a 50amp class a video

😄👍Good Stuff, Great Tips

Great channel. I'm confused about how the various devices in a typical Victron mobile system play nice with the batteries and prevent them from overcharging. It's a very modular system where even the shunt seems to be optional. Does one device end up becoming the master to keep track of battery SOC? I would like to figure out a safe way to do alternator charging of the house batteries. The coach I'm converting has an oil cooled Delco 50DN 24V 270A alternator with an external adjustable regulator. Some literature indicates it has inherent current regulation but I need to research that more. Since all of the high current motors that ran the old HVAC system have been removed from the coach, I have a ton of unused capacity. I want to run one A/C from it while on the road (I know the alternator is quite capable of this from an older build). I'd like to use a Victron Cyrix to do alternator charging to allow more current than the DC to DC solutions produce. I am confused about how the power coming from the alternator to the batteries gets accounted for and which device(s) in the system could supervise the Cyrix and shut it down to prevent overcharging of the house batteries. In my case I would have 24V Lithium house batteries, Victron Inverter/Charger, Victron solar charge controller, the Cyrix/alternator, and probably an Orion 70A converter for 12V loads.

Nice install and well done video tutorial. I am curious, is the roof a rubber fiberglass roof?

Great video which will help me with my lithium upgrade on my motorhome. I have a question regarding the battery bank connection to the Lynx distributor. Why is there a need for a 400A fuse between the battery and the Lynx distributor because each of the load connections to the lynx distributor have an individual fuse. I don't see what benefit the 400A provides.

I love this and so many of your other solar installs. Top notch quality! I have your 30amp RV schematics downloaded and was prepping to tackle a very similar upgrade over the winter in my class A. At 22:22 you show the install of the splice - if my existing 120v wire from the transfer switch to the fuse panel, can reach the multiplus, I can just cut it, and install one end in the multiplus in and the other to the multiplus out. The splice is just needed because of your install location and the camper wiring path, correct?

Question: what did you do with the original battery isolator that came in the camper?

Excellent video! To build this exact system for my RV, what should I plan to budget? Sorry to be rude asking costs but its important to the conversation.

You said in the video you would leave a link for the wire duct in the video description, but I don't see it. I can't find that big blue slotted wire duct anywhere. Is it still being sold?

Hi there. Thank you for amazing videos. I have question about using an inverter without charger function as I dont think I would be plugging in very often away from home. How would splicing into the OEM shorepower input differ? Can it simply be spliced into the shore power input cable? I would have to make sure both shorepower and inverter are not being used at same time obviously. Is this is bad option due to chance of having both running? Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks again.

This upgrade plan is nearly exactly what I need to do. We have a similar Integra motorhome built on the same Ford chassis. The only difference for us is that we will only have room on the roof for three 200w solar panels. Are you planning to make this wiring diagram available on the website for download ?. I'd like to purchase a copy for study purposes and I could not find it there yet.

Your are methodical. Excellent video. I was prepared to comment about the safety of the shunt but you placed spacers so that was great. I do have a question about the factory pin codes for the apps. If you don't change them are you possibly exposed at various campsites where others can potentially log onto your system and change the settings in a nefarious way? Jason from Melbourne Australia.

Re: connecting to new lithium batteries. Could a person just diconnect the wires going to old lead acid batteries directly at the original electrical panel and then wire new wires directly from new victrom system to the original electrical panel. this would eliminate a connection from the old battery site to the original electrical panel completlu. My original rv electrical panel is very close to my new victron set up and new batteries. The old battery site, where I would have place junction studs would be furthest away from my new system and the original electrical panel.

For alternator changing would having the dc/dc converter installed after the isolator give you the best of each?

also why didn't you use BougeRV CIGS solar panels? they are so much more efficient, work with shadows and they stick on!

I realize this is an older video and so maybe you’re not still paying attention to comments on it. You pointed out at the beginning of the video that there was a inverter existing in the rig and that you couldn’t find it. I have a similar situation in my trailer, so I was curious what you were gonna do with it, but I never heard mention again. Did you just leave it in place under the assumption that it wasn’t gonna hurt anything even if it got turned on but for most of the time you didn’t even need it on?

This is the video I've been waiting for as I'm planning on adding Lithium/Solar/Inverter to my 30a motorhome this fall. Thank you for covering the existing alternator charging, I had no idea how that worked. Some questions; I was planning on a 400ah/800w setup. What is gained by the 570ah/1200w setup except for allowing for more days without sunshine, any lost functionality? Why no Cerbo/GX monitor? Is the battery monitor and bluetooth app enough?

I purchased your plan to rebuild a 50 amp power system in my trailer and it has gone great, just one question. In your video you say to turn off the existing converter and tape the breaker off. Can I simply remove the converter as it would be the perfect spot for my splice kit box to go?

Why did you add the negative cable from the shunt/lynx to the frame when the factory battery location negative should be connected to the frame via the battery relocation kit?

My small class C Onan generator uses the OEM lead acid house batteries to start it. Have you seen this before?

Do you do installs? Just bought the same motor home.

What was the cost on all the parts for this conversion?

wow you never found where the factory inverter is located??

Why such a big solar charge controller? Why not the 100/50 since you wire in series parallel. Those rich panel are 72.9/30.6 correct when wired in series parallel?

Why ANL fuse instead T-class one?

If your house batteries are Lithium, how are you going to allow for the motorhome cross-connect switch to jump the engine battery, if necessary? My understanding is that Lithium batteries can't safely do that.

Do you leave solar on while in storage? I am hearing mixed opinions about solar panels with load that can cause battery damage, and without load, that can cause panel damage.

i'm very confused why you had to remove the fridge - that's crazy, we use our outdoor fridge constantly! why didn't you just cram a LiTime 460AH under the step and call it a day? then you can also use the oupes mega 2 for another 2000w using the shore power plug!

How did you bypass the factory installed inverter? It was never mentioned

Why 12v and not 24v in this use case? At what point would you have done 24v?

Any concerns about the batteries getting too cold in that compartment or will the built in heating pads be able to handle it? I live where it gets anywhere from -20F to 110F.

Great video! What was the total install time?

I've been wondering... why use a solar isolator over a breaker style solar disconnect?

This alerts you to the fire hazard of the 30 amp power cord junction box! Winnebago and other manufacturers use twist nuts on the cabling in the junction box which is an absolute no no no no no! These arc and spark causing fires. I know first hand. I'm an aviation electrician and one never ever uses twist nuts on vibrating equipment. You can't use twist nuts on aircraft, sailboats, heavy equipment, and automobiles.

Think the only thing you didn't touch on in the inverter. I am putting this system into my class c motor home but it doesn't have a inverter in it already so need to know if I need one and what one for this setup because mine did not come solar ready so if there is a better video for a class c hookup let me know please, thank you

Great install, very detailed and easily to follow along even if you’re not electrical savvy…. BUT, all of your ‘success’ steps and parts cost a fortune! This is not a “average” upgrade most can afford. Thanks for the knowledge though.

I am curious if there are any issues with the BB batteries handling the starting amps needed for the generator or the emergency starting for the motorhome.

Where do you get the “Victron Blue” wiring duct/channel? Is this something you have on your website and if not, where do you get it? Thanks!

I've seen you use copper bar to connect batteries and in place of very short wires in your builds? What thickness/ width bar do you recommend for a 12v system with a 300amp main breaker?

Does the Onan generator charge the batteries too? Don’t recall seeing a section on that but is that an option?

Did this unit have a Battery Isolation manager. If so was it removed or is it just left alone?

I have a National type A motor home, do you do installations, I'm really not able to do that.

What is the voltage with the three panels in series?

Did you find the other inverter? If so, what was done?