ståle starheim great idea! flywheel must make a difference

hmm faster reving = more hp? or vice versa? heavy flywheel may cost more hp but has more momentum so perhaps more tq? :O yes we need to know :p

ståle starheim A heavier flywheel is like putting the motor in a heavier car, it will make the engine rev slower but carry more kinetic energy at a given rpm, making the engine less sensitive, but it will not alter performance per se

I would love to see engine masters try to get Diesel torque from a pump gas engine. That would be awesome.

Martin Fisker: not so sure about that, as a light flywheel will be less mass for the engine to pull around, sure the engine itself will not lose hp but the heavier flywheel will most likely steal some hp compared to a light one, much like radiator fans as the engine need to deal with more resistance hp should be lost, like how a heavy driveline will make a engine have less whp than if the same engine had a lighter driveline, would be interesting, as for me i got a 29 pound flywheel but consider to put on a 14,5 pound one during next clutch change.

Those plastic lines are cheap, but if that's installed... better keep a spare kit in the glovebox. The ferrules always crush, and if that line breaks, all new fittings are needed to get back up and running.

That's a pretty common racing thing to do. I've never done it with ancillary gauges like water temp, oil pressure ect. But I always mount my tach so the shift point is straight up.

OURv Yea , I always set up my tach so the needle is somewhere I like it at redline, I usually make it the 3:00 position. that way you see a level needle and you shift.

This is common in racing, it's also relatively common in general. You may notice in most cars, at least older ones before gauges were more about function than style, if everything is in normal operating ranges, the needles should mostly be pointing straight up. The main difference with racing is the orientation of the tach.

Very common it’s like your tach I set it in the middle so you shift in the middle of tach same if you know were your oil pressure runs you set the gauges so the needle points strait up it’s nothing new been doing for years

you can do that with electric, just not over as large a range, just over a small operating range, with too low or too high on either side.. ultimately do you need that precision or accuracy, for everyday cruising I say no(seriously, how much time do you spend looking at gauges and how much time looking at the road??) Best setup would be to have your gauges, (what ever flavour you want) and have fast acting switches(high temp, low oil, low alternator output... all the critical ones) wired to a buzzer.. buzzer sounds, check gauges and shutdown.. buzzer can even be hidden to keep the oil classic looking stock and original..

Good tip

ShawnD1027 Correct. These things are not scripted, I'm just winging it and sometimes misspeak.

Gotcha. Sometimes I can't hold back my language zealotry. ;)

Hey ShawnD1027, if you put the word ironic inside quotation marks you mean something not quite ironic or other and he did say exactly that word. My humble opinion is that you did a lingo boo-boo yourself. You better smack yourself as well as Mr F 😁

There’s also the first company to make spray paint is in sycamore also.

have you used a reed switch fuel sender its magnetic very accurate

@@frankdavidson9675 Am only aware of them now from you. I will definitely check them out.

The only thing that could leak is if the nylon line breaks there will never be coolant because the sending unit goes into the engine with no coolant going to the meter

agentbob100 I agree! signals go inside, not hi temp of high pressure

i replaced the plastic tubing on my auto meter oil pressure gauge with copper tubing....i've had it for years in a street/strip car and never had an issue....i don't know about now...but mechanical gauges used to be considered more accurate than electrical....

@ agentbob100... I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge ( I thought it would be more accurate & quicker to react ).. the tubing olive failed & you would be amazed how much hot high pressure oil can spray from that tiny tube.. next weekend electrical gauges & 20 years later won't even consider Mech

John Becay hmm

Those are made in China

We were cutting firewood in an old dump truck (was years ago - don't remember what kind) and when we loaded the chainsaw back into the cab the blade caught on the oil line and sprayed oil EVERYWHERE. I know your pain.

i have a 77 dent side ford and had the same thing happen but it filled my boot up with extreme hot oil still got burn scares!!!

Chris Jacobs nah just life experiences and storys about them not behind the computer stories lol

Happened to me in my cessna, the gauge sits right above your left thigh, passenger and I both wore it that day since the airport was still Twenty minutes out...

Chris Jacobs say's the guy with his mother's car

Could be a bad ground

And most of them are water proof, or rather unaffected by water, prob not the Volts or Amps.

Solder and heat shrink. 👍

Copper line should never be used for petroleum products as copper is a hydrocarbon oxidation catalyst. This includes all your common automotive fluids with the exception of coolant and brake fluid.

I flat-out guarantee you that there's plenty of copper, and copper-containing "yellow metals" in your engine, right now, just swimming in oil. And likely some more in your tranny, as well.

bcubed72 -- Your confidence in this is entirely understandable, there's plenty of places in engine where copper lines and a brass bushings would seem to make perfect sense. Indeed in early engines (before World War II) there were lots of copper and brass parts. As a mechanic for the past 30 years or so I can say from a first-hand perspective that there is very, very little copper in a modern engine. The only exceptions that come to mind are the brass inserts added to plastic intake manifolds so that they can take machine screws and of course carburetor jets which no longer exist on current vehicles. Occasionally you'll see an oilite bushing in the top of the distributor but it's there because it doesn't see engine oil and needs to get by on a dab of silicone grease. Distributors of course also do not exist on current vehicles. I can't really speak to automatic transmissions as that's a specialty that I'm not involved in. In manual transmissions synchronizers are typically made from brass. A fact that I hadn't really pondered in relation to hydrocarbon oxidation before your comment, thanks for that. Since synchronizers are a wear part they are constantly dosing the gear oil with very fine brass particles with a fresh bare metal surface. Which seems to explain why the interior of manual transmissions are always heavily varnished. Don't mean to argue, just keeping the conversation balanced.

While that may be true, the oil in the copper tubing is pretty much static... it might move a quarter inch from 0-xxx PSI, but it's not like it's circulating. Failing that, the fitting holding the tubing, be it nylon or the copper, is brass.

i would only use copper when making a/c system custom for like a rat rod or somthing i have done it with connections and stuff

I've heard this before, but my follow-up question has always been, "How inaccurate is electricity?" lol. A cheap gauge, electrical or mechanical, will be less accurate than a high-quality gauge.

Learn to solder. I've never had to question any of my connections.

a mechanical gauge may give you a reading, but is it true? what happens when a little bit of sludge blocks the pipe going to your gauge? it stays high, and then the engine blocks the oil feed and the engine starves..

Sadly, the average consumer doesnt care about gauges, so those of that do, have to do it ourselves.

you lost me about speed on electic gauges you star the eng oil pressure goes to 50 lb fuel gos to level of fuel in tank battery voltage about 13v temp increases as eng warms idiot light c omes when switch is turned on when eng starts it gos out (RED light) oil pressure never had a need for speed on my gauges

as long as your ground cable to engine block and chassis is good, you wont have any grounding issues as this will be the only ground in your circuit. if you tee off an existing ground wire (that goes to your radio) for instance, your asking for trouble

Dude! Please don't educate me on grounds. I could write a doctorate dissertation on the subject. What I'm saying is that old cars typically have ground problems, causing tons of electrical problems, including electrical gauges.

lol what im saying is if you wire a new component properly with new wiring into you car no matter how old it is, you will never have a ground problem (unless there is a problem with the battery cable as mentioned). it is simply impossible. its only old wiring / old grounds that give problems

It has gas that expands with temp… it’s not electrical that has a resistor that is read and displayed.