Some how this comment fell through the cracks. Glad to see the video was informative for you and thank you very much for the comment

Thank you for taking the time to watch it. I have other full bleed videos out there that might help as well. This video just shows how to top off the system (which, coincidentally, I just did on one of my bikes last week) in order to make sure they are running in top shape

Thanks for the comment. This procedure can, and should, be done on all brakes in between bleeds. Prior to doing any caliper adjustments, I would first remove the air from the system as seen in the video, then work on centering or aligning the caliper. I hope I understood your question and responded correctly. let me know if I didn't

Glad you found the video informative. There are many options, but your best bet is to buy a bleed kit. The funnel alone will only help remove air that has collected in the handle. A full bleed is needed at least once a year, imo. For a full bleed, you will need the syringe. I have posted brake bleed guides for both Shimano and SRAM brake that should help. The bleeding process is very easy, and if you follow my guide, I'm sure you will end up with a successful bleed below is a link to a very cost-effective bleed kit on Amazon. I've never used this kit, but it should work. There are other kits that cost more, whether they work better I have no idea.. www.amazon.com/ROWYOU-Shimano-Hydraulic-Bleeding-Professional/dp/B0C15CSP8X/ref=sr_1_8?crid=23CS1GMWQUD4R&keywords=shimano+bleed+kit&qid=1692234062&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=shimnao+bleed+kit%2Csporting%2C113&sr=1-8#customerReviews

Thanks a lot for you answer. I look forward ro trying it.@@zoubtube

Thank you for taking the time to watch it. This video applies to all hydraulic brakes. Over time, air can seep into the system. The air bubbles will make their way to the lever bleed port as long as the bike isn't stored upside down. If your brakes start feeling soft in between bleeds, then this is a good place to check first

@@zoubtube That’s very helpful, thanks.

Multiple options: If there are still traces of corners on the bolt, you can try to use an Allen key with nitrile gloves. Place the glove over the Allen and insert the Allen into the bolt head. The glove will fill the empty spaces as well as provide enough grip to remove the bolt. You can also use a special Allen key that is made to remove bolts with rounded heads, but I will say that they don't always work. If the head is too rounded, they won't work at all, from my experience. A sure-fire option, though in this case I would consider it a last resort, is to find a sacrificial Allen key and apply epoxy (not regular glue) to the bolt head, then insert the Allen key. Leave it sit for 24 hours, then remove the bolt Hopefully, this helps

Nope! this is just topping off. This should be done if your brakes feel a bit off over time. All your doing is removing a bit of air from the reservoir in this case. not from the whole system. I have multiple bleeding videos on the channel for both shimano and sram brakes that go into detail in order to help with the process

one thumbs up is Perfect! 😉 Thanks

Agreed. this is best for forks as well. It keeps the foam rings saturated with oil. Unfortunately that's only an option for me when I store them in the winter for now. .