I added a full bottle of SeaFoam and ran it in my Honda Accord 2.4L for 250 miles. Checked oil prior to the SF add and then after the 250 mi. Not that it’s scientific but was huge difference in color on the dipstick and white paper towel. Med brown prior and dark black after. Burns less oil per 1,000 miles too. So will do a second SeaFoam clean again at next oil change. Engine has 238,500 miles. Great video! Keep up the good work!

Wow, I am impressed by the color of the “new” oil after only 10min of life. Much darker than I would have ever expected!

I did not see any "sludge" in your engine but rather mainly varying layers of varnish perhaps with some carbon content. Sludge normally does not occur with on time engine oil changes unless there is something seriously wrong with the engine. Actual sludge will look like thick, goopy oil that instead of being in a liquid form instead has the consistency of gravy that got too thick. This occurs when oil has been been kept in use for too long of a period and has already begun to break down and then undergoes a transformation in conjunction with atmospheric moisture build up resulting in thick, goopy, sludge appearance. Varnish on the other hand is also a byproduct of combustion in conjunction with the exhaust vapors which are recycled back in to the engine combustion cycle, resulting in the vapor leaving a coating on the metal surfaces which is varnish with some carbon content. That is that dark, thin coating you are seeing on the underside of your valve cover and coating top engine parts. Most engine cleaners/flushes are pretty limited to what they can do to accumulated varnish coatings on the inside of the valve cover and cams but that doesn't mean that they are not cleaning the lower engine components including the oil pan (to a certain degree) of any possible oil byproduct build-up as any quality/effective brand will clean things up but they have limited effect against varnish, especially on the upper cylinder and valve cover area. For cleaning up accumulated varnish a better approach rather than an engine flush type product which are usually based on Napthenic based oils (which have cleaning properties) would be a heavy solvent based formula which is applied directly to the parts that have light to heavy varnish then physically wiping the varnish off of the metal surfaces. A product that would work for that purpose is Berryman B12. If you want to avoid (as much as possible) the accumulation of varnish in the upper cylinder, valve cover area in the first place then do more frequent oil changes. I've pulled valve covers off Honda engines that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them that had barely any varnish on them because the owners were NOT going by the factory recommended oil change intervals but instead have stuck to 3000 mile (5000 km) oil change intervals. After the 5000 mile mark, due to the repeated heat/cool cycle and fuel dilution effect, the amount of vapor deposition on the metal surfaces dramatically increases so that if a person is going by a 7500 mile oil change interval just because the manufacturer says that's "ok" to do and just because the outside of an oil container makes a claim such as 10,000 miles on it, in the automotive repair world we can definitely see the difference when we pull the valve covers off.

I really appreciate you going this far for a video. Thank you.

Just a thought: if you compare oil samples again, try pouring them each into a clear plastic cup or container, then shine a flashlight below them to see how well the light penetrates. That might help you see the difference in how contaminated each sample is.

I would think that the second flushing on the same engine is just loosening it up as you mentioned. I have used amsoil for many years and they are a great company with great products. Im sure both work well

Good job. There is definitely a difference Try another couple of rounds with Marvel Mystery oil. Add about 6 ounces and drive about 300 miles with it in the crankcase. You will see a new looking engine and clean valve cover. It works.

An engine this gunked up you may want to do AMSOIL power foam, and do the engine flush everytime you change the oil with Signature series. I did it in my Focus ST and I can barely hear it and my fuel mileage went up 3 mpg instantly

Honestly these are not considered comparable products. I would recommend you trying AMSOIL Power Foam Vs. Seafoam next time. Would love to see that ;) good video!

Appreciate the video! Gives me some assurance to do a flush next oil change on my high mileage Hondas. Was worried about damaging seals before.

I've never done a flush but after watching your video I bet using 1/4 bottle of Seafoam before each oil change would keep the internals looking brand new. And since they recommend driving a few miles with the Seafoam I don't think it will be bad for the engine. I'm going to try it on my next oil change. :))

I trust and use Seafoam. Thanks for the assurance.

Seems like a fair compromise on products, personally for me, when I got my chrysler 300, with unknown service history and having ran Amsoil on my previous car, I opted for a 20k mile cleaning period where I used the Amsoil engine flush and Amsoil Signature series every 3 to 5k miles, and now I'm that I'm passed that and 7300miles into the regular service I'm sending out a oil sample for analysis

Seafoam is amazing, and for the cost of usage it is a no brainer! Another amazing product is the Marvel Mystery Oil, not sure they have this in Canada but it helps with engine running smoother and even the gas mileage!

I wonder if the test was done using Seafoam first and Amsoil second. I bet Amsoil would win. Is not fair to test both products on the same car, the 2nd product will always have the upper hand since the 1st product already did part of the cleaning.

I'm a firm believer in Amsoil Signature Series and Seafoam, I have used Seafoam for over a decade and Amsoil for about 5 years. I appreciate your review of these products, thank you. A follow-up would video and also a second test would be awesome. I would be interested in seeing the same test but reversed. Not so much as a head to head comparison but as a combined review. Add the Seafoam drive it for whatever Canadian for 300 miles is and then run the Amsoil Flush. Gut feeling is that we would see an improvement.

Try Liqui Moly pro line Engine Flush next time. It'll really liquify those caked on build up and flush it all out. Great video btw!

If you want the engine to look like new, then get the BG Dynamic cleaner kit. These products don't have enough chemicals to clean the engine. They help a little bit but you will have to change your oil every 500k. It took years to build that sludge it will take many flushes to clean it.

I use ASMOIL and let me just say best products on the market!!!

Just used a quart of atf for 100 miles. Works real well

You should put the remaining sea foam in the fuel tank and then both systems will be cleaned or cleaner. Just a suggestion.

i had an old ford truck with a 5.4. I ran seafoam for about 300-400 miles before an oil change for 5-6 oil changes. the first time the oil coming out was thick and black. and every oil change it seemed to get a bit cleaner. the final oil change the oil was still dark, but it was more of a dark amber color than black. i thought it was snake oil before that but i watched the project farm video you mentioned and thats when i tried it.

The recommendation is using a whole bottle of Seafoam into your engine and letting it run for about 15 minutes before draining the old oil?

Thanks for the info Josh! Your son is a cutie!!!!🤩 good for you for teaching him so young

When changing oil replace one quart of oil with one quart of ATF. With VVT engines replace half a quart of oil with half a quart of ATF. ATF is packed with detergents and flushes the engine slowly as to not kick loose large pieces of slug that could clog your oil pickup screen. Five oil changes later and your engine will be squeaky clean inside.

The Motor Oil Geek on KZfaq tested multiple oil additives and then sent oil samples in to a testing lab. It was an interesting video.

I would remove the power steering hose from the PS pump to make the valve cover removal easier - just protect the pump and hose (towel to catch PS oil) opening while working. Makes cover removal easier on my 2004 accord 2.4L.

Use Berryman’s B12, it’s the cheapest and most effective because it has xylene and toluene, but be carful since it has a bit of acetone too

This was a really well done test mate. Good job

Great video. These products do take time to work, and they may require an early oil change because of dissolving buildup inside the engine.

Have you had any problems with your Accord after a year from using these products? Some say using engine flushes can clog the oil passage screens possibly causing engine failure.

There are two types of flushes. 1. Detergent based and 2. Solvent based Detergent based are more expensive and are designed to slowly liquify sludge over time thereby preventing stopping up the oil screen on the engine pump. They are not a quick-fix products but are safe and effective over time. Examples are Amsoil, LiquiMoly. Solvent based flushes are designed to be cheap and work quickly. Heavily sludged engines can be overloaded with the solvent and break large chunks of sludge loose and stopping the screen on the pump up. Sea foam, kerosene, and other inexpensive flushes are examples of solvent based flushes. Both Amsoil, LiquiMoly, BG, and other professional products are designed to slowly dissolve sludge and transfer it to the filter for removal over time. None of them are designed to be quick fixes. They work great in modern VVT systems freeing up sticky solenoids and phasers.

Very good video! Thank you for the conducted test and sharing it!

Sir, Did you ever check your oil Pan???

Oil changes done on time? How many miles do you go between oil changes?

The oil with the Seafoam in the can, appears to have alot more black carbon, sludge in the oil. When you moved the oil, it looked like alot more on the side then the others. I recently bought a 2001 Ford Escape V6, I ran Seafoam through it for about 450miles. When I changed the oil, you could see the suspended sludge, particles in the oil. And my god, that oil filter was heavy, I bet over a pound if not more. The owner I bought it from, said that there was always continuous oil changes every 5000km. He used it as a drive around vehicle, thats it. After I drained the oil, I can tell you, that timing chain shined!!! And it didn't before. I am a firm believer in Seafoam. It appears to me, that Amsoil didn't do a darn thing..

Excellent video keep up the good work

I would just run Amsoil Signature Series from here on out. They have enough detergents that over time, you engine will be cleaned up good.

These cleaners need heat to clean. I've used BG EPR and using that you could hear the engine get quieter. Run it at high idle for about 15 min, pull the plug and that oil was black as tar. I was genuinely shocked.

Maybe the next few oil changes alternate the engine cleaners during each oil change then recheck the removed valve cover after 4-6 oil changes and see if you notice a difference. Who knows you might want to use both on a rotated basis. I am a fan of seafoam fuel treatment and the Amsoil products. Tough decision.

It is a great video indeed! I have the same car and I have got to ask you this question: after using Sea Foam have you had any oil leaks or any other potential problems with the engine? My mechanic tells me to never use any flushes as they can clog the oil channel and lead to adverse effect. Have you noticed any issues after using these flushes? Much appreciated

You are right about your first choice by add Amsoil than seefome,

it seems like changing your oil "on time" may not be often enough.

I have tested a lot of them. My choise is MOTOR MEDIC MFD1 Synthetic Motor Flush, and/or STP Super Concentrated High Mileage Engine Flush. Also Marvel Mystery Oil, replace 20% of oil capacity with MMO for 1.000 miles before oil change

An old school trick I have used when I bought an old car with a gummed up motor with sticky rings and lifters is half a quart of auto transmission fluid in the engine and run it for a few days before changing the oil?

Fair warning to all...Engine flushes clean the metal...Rubber seals can be altered for what is left of them...Hot oil changes mixing with ATF only safe way..Then..0w20-30-40 Class 4 Syn Oil..These companies produce a flushing product for pennies..Guess how much you will spend for surprise repairs later? $$$$$$..

SeaFoam Works. Used it a lot and has taken poorly running engines and cleans them out. Good Stuff.

Did you use jack stands to support the car while you crawled under it, or just the jack?

That's mean we should change oil and filter on time wi be perfect no need to go with AMSOIL or motul...etc yes?

Try 50/50 Diesel and Oil to flush and clean & flush the motor is works. may have to do a second flush if engine has more gunk.

A little constructive criticism. When comparing the oils visually, perhaps Mason jars, or baby food jars would be better. Let's the light in better.

Great video! Obviously the Amsoil cleaned it, then the Sea Foam cleaned it more! I would not put a catch-all product like Sea Foam in my crank case though. "Put it in your gas, put it in your oil, put it in everything!" No thanks.

How did you pour each product? Did you flush each product with interval then full drain in between or did you just add the second product from the first one?

What about adding MMO to the mix?

The best method for a clean engine is not only keeping your oil changed, BUT maintaining a clean air filter and external fuel filter(if equipped). Dirty air/fuel 4:01 contaminates the oil as well🤷🏽‍♂️

How is the engine now? Thank you in advance bro.

The Amsoil is for when you going from conventional oil to synthetic that’s the reason you only run it for 15 min at idle it’s more of a detergent to get most of the conventional oil and setting the engine up for synthetic use it for my wife’s car 2013 Nissan Sentra

What specific brand of engine oil did you use for the life of your car that created that sludge?

Save your money on Seafoam, it's snake oil. It only improved performance while it's in the engine or fuel system due to the petroleum distillates acting as a lubricant. Any pour in the oil or gas product at an auto parts store is usually never effective. Dealerships use specialty products like BG at dealerships because of their effectiveness. Amsoil products are superior when it comes to flushes, cleaners and lubricants and their effectiveness is why they are in business when they are dealer only or online only rather than sold with mass production products at auto parts stores.

Seafoam is amazing It is the closest thing to liquid tune up/mechanic there is pretty much, I've started putting it in my SUV and now all the yard equipment it works for sure and I have really only ever put in the gas tank might put some in the engine oil before my next change

Very good test mythology. I wonder iwhst the result would be. If eafoam treatment at every oil change

I use seafoam in all my vehicles it really works and works well. I remember first time I used it in an 03 5.3 Silverado it was dirty

Little Man Is Sooo Adorable!!!!! Great Little Helper!!!!! :) ;)

The only thing i don't like about engine flush is when all the stuff comes off your oil pump screen is going to pick it up and start to reduce oil flow to the engine. That to me is more harm than good. To me it's better to change the oil more often with a good quality oil.

Seafoam has a boiling point lower than engine operating temperatures so adding it to the oil will NOT work because it will just boil off when the engine is upto operation temperature. Kerosene works just as well for a fuel system cleaner and it’s so much cheaper.

You said that synthetic oil has been used, but there is a huge difference between a good one with PAO and Ester with good additives and a bad one. My mercedes after more than 100000 miles are metal clean inside engine.

Thanks. Genuine vid.

Love you're video. But I see one thing wrong please for the love of your son never get under a vehicle without jack stands in place. I didn't see any but please for your safety my friend.

You said oil changes has been done on time ,maybe you wanna do them earlier than recommendation and also depends on what oil you using ,just my two cents P.S. lol I'm surprised amsoil warriors didn't show up yet 😅

Amazing,but im scared that I can clogged the oil pump.im try to change frequently and used MISTERY OIL.is verygood!!

What brand of fully synthetic oil you are using?

Keep in mind just because one is better than the other doesn’t mean the other is bad.

Yes these additives do work... I,'d use a full synthetic oil now and it will continue the scouring effect that was started by these. I Use a 1/2 qt of kerosene and a 1/4 qt of tranny fluid mix.., Idle for 5 minutes or so, depending on each individual engine and case.. Is doing the same thing as these...Trick is to change the oil filters, so they don't overload, if an extremely dirty engine. Just have to know what you're doing.Folks have using straight tranny fluid, and even desiel fuel as a flush for decades now... About any full synthetic today, will gently scour the engine while driving..Also never forget MARVEL Mystery Oil as a longer term gentler cleaner. Been working wonders for about a century now... ( Are all Hondas that noisy, thought it was a diesel at first. Chuckle Chuckle 😃 ) That kid will be in Nascar in a few short years!

Pennzoil full synthetic oil changed every 3,000 miles and the engine will never get dirty. It will look practically new at 300,000 miles.

Use half in the engine oil before an oil job and with the other half I pour inside the gas tank

Your engine is strange, not sure how the oil is so dirty. Did you say you put in new oil, ran it for 10 mins and it turned black? I've owned hondas for a long time, especially accords, and my oil comes out crystal clear at 3000 mile oil changes. Almost the same as what it went in.

Nice job

I bet if you used any top shelf synthetic oil for your vehicle and reduced the oil change intervals slightly the engine internals would clean up just fine.

Can I Use Amsoil Flush on my Honda 1.5 Turbo? Im worried

I have a direct injection engine. I'm not so sure Seafoam is going to do very much for DFI Motors. Possibly help clean the injectors but I'm more sure anything else.

I think the difference between the two is time. One was 5-10 mins. One was many hours. The other question is how good is it for the engine to run hours and hours with the contents of seafoam in your crank case? Seafoam contains 20% rubbing alcohol which has no lubricating properties, destroys motor additives, not good for the seals. IMO does not belong in motor oil for any extended period of time.

Did you also change the oil filter?

can you clarify what synthetic oil was used and also what was the oil change interval for this car? Also what was the spec fo the engine. I just know this is a NA. I'm assuming this is the 2.4L port injected...170 or 190hp iVtec.. 4 cylinder with timing chain.

I put half a can of seafoam in the crank case and the other half in the fuel tank..drive it for the last 1000km then change the oil, at the 5000km mark in any car.

Should have used diesel fuel also. Put a quart of diesel, let it run for about 30 minutes. Then check after that! 👍

Use MOBIL 1 oil and filter and/or Royal Purple oil and filter . That will keep the car running great and clean.

Sludge just magicaly won't disappear....is all going some were and that's the oil pump strainer and for sure some of it is going into the oil pump gears if the strainer doesn't get completely clogged...

looks like seafoam did a little better for the varnish

sea foam great stuff, use it in all motors, boat, motorcycle, mower, truck, car, always good results.

All the gunk and varnish are from extended oil changes. Oil changes are cheaper than a new engine

Please, sir, run 5W 30 can’t hear my metal parts clanking around and he’s a frame ultras synthetic filter and a force. Valvoline high mileage extended protection every 7000 miles.

The sun light on the engine is making the sea foam is cleaner.

You need to go and buy BG dynamic engine restoration the gums and varnish will be gone almost like new it’s expensive but it works

I use diesel and oil mixed it lossens rings quiets lifers and removes sludge

Try changing your oil type. What i mean is use another oil in your car. Ive used mobile one in my motor and the ticking was still there. I used different types of oil. But when i started using Royal Purple the motor was alot quiter and the ticking stopped. Try with Royal Purple for your next test

Which oil filter were you using?

Is it safe to use amsoil engine flush to a 1000cc motorcycle?

Viva Seafoam! 👍 GOOD JOB SEAFOAM!

Next time you do an oil change, add a half bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and leave it in.

Amsoil flush smell just like strong kerosene. That smell would last after 2 oil change. I think amsoil engine flush they said regular part of maintenance or you should do it every oil change or 10 to 15k miles. It's a quick flush type product so in your 1 test you are not going to see any difference but I have done it with my vehicles and I feel like my vehicles run smoother and quieter. And whenever I pull my dipstick I can smell kerosene.