@@TheGooberman91 yeah but the listening devices didn’t make him make and upload the video lol

WOW

Or did it 🤔? Lol dope video either way

Don’t tell her about the video, but follow it exactly 😂😂 she’ll be amazed

@@TheGooberman91 😂

Yep - the guy at the store just got fired from Taco Bell and now working at home depot or wherever and he know zero about hardware or the store he's working in.

Bless your commitment to finishing a project,sir. You get to swear for a valid reason and then, get to marvel at your endeavors. 😃

@@rs-vl2imbro they are minimum wage workers why would you think they should know anything more than where the stuff is

Don't feel bad. I've been in the trades all my life and I too have spent way too much time at my local Lowes/Home Depot. So much so that I often find myself sharing item locations or correct procedural steps with other customers' when I over hear them getting terrible instructions or being sent to the wrong isle from the actual employees. Plus i can guarantee any youtube video has been extensively edited so you don't see that second, 3rd or 4th trips to Ace or them with flash lights on their knees spending 15 min looking for the stupid 10mm socket that they just had right here!

I so get this! Im pretty new to this and it always seems like there’s always one step in s project that hangs me up. Re trips to the store, though, I do what I’ve always done as a visual artist, to cut down that particular frustration, which is just to take the time, when I have it, just to wander around the art supply store looking at things (and now the hardware stores) and if something looks interesting, or like it might be useful someday, I pick it up. And sooner or later I do use these things! And I always buy extra materials. It means shelling out the money when I don’t need to, strictly speaking, but it’s 100 percent worth it. I always use it sooner or later too. Anyway good luck! 10:04

Underrated comment. This tip will give you nearly seamless and crisp joints!

True. This is what they teach us at carpentry school.

So, this will make for tighter miters?

@@jesuswasacarpenter Yes, the visible edge will be seamless.

Also he shouldn’t have used his magnetic angle finder on the blade teeth and center part. It should have been just completely on the center part to not throw off the angle

Great point!

I've built shelves like that for a long time and have some in my living room that have been there for over ten years. I never used brads or pins to "secure" them. I simply use masking tape to hold everything together as it dries all nice and snug. I've never had a shelf fall apart on me. Never underestimate the clamping power of masking tape! If you try this, let the glue dry for at least 6 hours after putting it all together with the tape. Trust me it makes for seamless, hole-less, filler-less shelves!

@@ABrokenSociety Even better, no filler and minimal 400grit hand sanding. I love it when a plan comes together.

@@chiefsmash7516 yessir! Give it a try sometime. I found out about the masking tape "clamp" a long while ago but was very skeptical so I kept using brads and pins. I gave it a try and never turned back. ;)

@@ABrokenSociety I'm a little lost. Masking tape doesn't sit completely flush, isn't the point of pin nailing/glue to avoid any raised surface? so how are you able to make that work?

I’m a professional and found this video disrespectful. You should not encourage this fool

I am a beginner and I can’t even understand what he is saying. A 3/8th’s nipple adapter? There’s so many 3/8th’s to choose from 😢

Get out of a Mans world.

Nah just cope the shelf :-)

@@uuuultraa lot less work than going through the full process of mudding/sanding/texture/paint

I do custom cabinets and trim on high end houses on a crew. We scribe just about everything... But we do all the cabinets and stuff on site... Remodels here and there we'll do some pre built, but most of the time it's new construction, is a gutted remodel... But just scribing and cutting that scribe gets rid of the gap but keeps the front square

Just build the shelf over sized and scribe to the wall.

sorry can you explain again what you did to round the corners? i didn’t fully get it-did you run the shaft of a screwdriver on the edges?

@@kikicupcake711 Yes it is called burnishing. Anything round will do. Let the glue setup a little then before you take the tape off run a round object along the edges.

This is a true professional tip.

that's what I expected. Dowels are the God Level

My floating shelves in my living room have metal dowels. I literally hand chiseled into my 2 sets of live edge Douglas fir to custom fit them with like 8 inch long dowels. Very time intensive but so worth it.

@@beaulaughlin520 😳

And the tools that you have on hand. I have a jigsaw. Do you have suggestions for a beginner workshop? (Including a DIY workbench)

@@sdeaglefeather Suggested tools? One of the tools I like the best is the drillpress. - Drillpress: a wonderful machine that allows you to cut holes with precision in many different materials. You can also use it to sand / grind. It comes with a vise as well! (one less thing to buy!) - Jigsaw: useful tool, but not precise. After cutting with a jigsaw you will need a router to even the cut edges. No matter what, jigsaw blades bend, so you will not get a straight cut in anything that has certain thickness. - Router: nice as well, but not something I use every day. - Clamps: for sure. Metal ones. You can start with 4, then add more. - Workbench: a must. You can build your own gigs to use on with it. I never work on the workbench itself, but on custom made boards (mdf is your friend) that you attach / remove to the workbench. - Sander: it's ok. I like using power tools that you need to hold with both hands. That way you make sure that if you are holding the tools, your hands are not free to go where they shouldn't be. Let me know if you need anything else; I'm not a pro, but have built several things myself!

@@DiegoSynth thank you for the invaluable info.

And a lot more expensive!

@@kallenyc same is a house to a trailer🤷‍♂️.

What's how my Amish cabinet maker gets Maple to stain evenly. He just told me that trick. Wish I knew about it years ago.

I would think you'd need to sand it again after using water

@@kallenyc not at all. 40, 80, 100/120 grit progression sanding into a good vacuum clean up of a hardwood floor, followed by a wet cloth damping (not soaking wet, squeeze the water good so it’s not dripping on twisting, yet not too dry to last a room) go over the floor, collecting the leftover dust particles and opening up the surface pores for stain to go deeper and more evenly. Wait for the water to dry (about an hour when it’s warmer and dryer out, mb some heating on if it’s cold and damp). Works like Swiss clock, tried and tested on many floors and wood types 🙏🏼 hope that helps

can you elaborate on this a little more? i want to make these but i wwant to make sure they are overbuilt on the load capacity thanks! I just cant visualize what you are describing, are you saying including drywall anchors?

@@NoName-sn1le no I’m finding the studs and making a fairly large opening on the drywall, that will get covered by the floating frame then using 35mm M10 “Furniture” screw in fastenings (a sort of heavy duty T-bolt replacement that one sets with a hex wrench (Allen key) then using M10 threaded rod as the main bolt. The frame of the floating shelf is construction grade 2x4 with 10 mm drill holes, to take rhe rod the outer half of the frame has 19 mm recesses so that the nut and washer can be tightened with a socket under surface. I then started the frame onto the threaded rod, added a penny washer,, and a nut, and wound it in to clear the outer frame, and then slid the rod through the outer frame and used another washer and nut to hold the outer frame. Because I’m using 2x4 the 4” surface braces the whole shelf flat with the wall when I cinch up the nuts. Hope that helps.

or just tape all your joins and avoid nails all together.

More to come!

Cause it's technically floating😅 no screws to a base whatsoever aka beginner mode.

Really think it depends on the design / feel of the trim your going for first would be more industrial/ rustic wouldn’t call it beginner I would call it 3 ways to build floating shelves which one fits your style?

French cleats tend to lose their luster as you go further and further from the wall. They are very strong for direct hanging loads, but loads hanging out tend to lever the edge over and render it ineffective.

I looked up French cleat because of your comment. Turns out I hung large flat screen TVs for years with that method and didn't know what it was called. TVs used to be extremely heavy and wall mounts were expensive. I mounted 2 sign posts on the wall horizontally and two on the back of the TV. Now that TVs are much lighter I use about $4 worth of chain and hang them like a picture.

@@theupscriber65 Good stuff! I'm setting some 20"x48"utility shelves up for a client this weekend. 1" oak scrap pieces countersinking the down cleat inside the rear of the box shelves so they sit flush against the wall. Easy Peasy :)

They'll hold sneakers, lol

i understood the words you chose but cant even remotely follow and i thought i knew some woodworking can you elaborate on the first point you made? like just rub the screwdriver shaft down the mitered edge?

@@NoName-sn1le yup, it really is that simple. Hold the screwdriver shaft against the miter joint at 45 degrees and run it back and forth a few times using gentle to moderate pressure. It will crush/round the razor sharp edges ever so slightly and push them together. Try it on some hardwood scraps to get a feel for what is possible to close up. You can make 1/32" gaps invisible with a swipe or two and that breaks the edge enough that you really don't need to sand it afterward. William Ng has a great demo: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nd94p7qQ3Z69Zmg.html

I agree

That's from the end grain. It takes stain differently than the rest of the wood. I was wondering how it would look but that particular color of stain didn't do too badly. A walnut stain probably would have looked a lot darker on the end grain. Avoiding end grain is where mitered corners come in.

Nice idea, thanks! This is quite helpful and I'll have to try that next time! Beats all of the video methods in my opinion

Can you please elaborate? Maybe share pictures?

Are the dowels wood or metal and how long are they? You'll definitely see the seam between the 2" piece and the rest of the lumber.

they're all great guys