FWIW, I showed this microscope to my two engineering techs at work (people who actually know what they’re doing) and they liked it so much we got one for the workshop.

FREE RANDALL!

Yes, Randall should make an appearance.

Well done! I enjoyed your humour and your obvious self confidence.

Riveting! I like your review because that is exactly how I would use it. Thanks for showing how to focus, that is something I have been wondering about. And thanks for showing all the mistakes, I am glad I am not alone.

thanks excellent review with practical test, I will buy this model too

One tip when dealing with SMD 'chip' components is to 'tin' one pad with solder, then reheat the solder while holding it in place with the tweezers; once the one end is satisfactorily anchored, it's trivial to solder the second side. And just like with DIP packages, soldering SMT ICs goes by quicker when you 'tack' a couple corner pins into place before soldering all the legs.But it does look like you have the general idea! And if you think that's tiny, the resistor looked like it was an "0805" or "0603" size package. They make them all the way down to 0402, and there are smaller sizes yet.

I bought exactly this microscope. It really helped my fixing and soldering endeavours😊. Really enjoy all your videos. Greetings from Munich.

You are a brave man. I would never want anyone to see me dealing with SMD soldering. I'm definitely, um, challenged in that respect. Some works, some doesn't. My microscope isn't as nice as yours, but it is good enough to show me what I did badly. Maybe a better scope in the future would help. I do like the big screen on yours for use in finding faults though, broken traces may not hide as easily... Nice review.

best advice for smd soldering regarding of what method you use, soldering iron, hot air gun, IR heater etc is to make sure you use good quality branded flux and solder. myself i uses either chemtronics or Amperol Flux along with Multicore solder (hass flux inside it). honestly Flux is you number one best friend here

Very informative and honest. May have to invest in one myself.

I have this scope too. One trick I've found to get more space under it to work with larger boards: Turn the whole horizontal arm around such that the base is behind the scope instead of under it. You'll need to place some sort of counterweight on the base or it'll tip over. With it orientated like that, you have a lot more space and can use like a soldering mat under it. Another "trick" if you do that, the power lead that connects to the little box under where the lights are will be sticking out in the way. You can unscrew that little box and rotate it 180 degrees and reattach. Then the power lead will connect to that box *underneath* the base plate, totally out of the way. I'm not a huge fan of using this though, I'm finding it very difficult to look at the display and do the work underneath it so I need to spend more time with it to try to get used to it 🫤

Good timing. The camera on my microscope just died... it's a sign from the retro computer gods!

Nice Video I have been wanted to get a microscope too for the SMD work that I do !

Yes Randle would be a great guest !

Good stuff as usual!

When you mentioned Randall I was thinking, we hear about Randall, but never see Randall. Get Randall on the channel!

Disparaging comment, feel free to ignore at your leisure 🤣 You did a decent job of the soldering to be honest, I too was very nervous of SMD soldering at first and it wasn't until I got some decent flux and leaded solder that it became easier and I'm now one of those folk that'll tell you SMD is quicker and easier than through hole. Personally I don't like that liquid flux, I use chipquik rosin flux (SMD291 or SMD491). Its expensive but absolutely worth every penny. Equally leaded solder I find flows far easier. For the chips, my advice for what its worth is to solder down 1 corner pin first, check orientation then do the opposite, check again then do the rest. At the pitch you're working at the slight offset is fine but when you get into stuff like CPLDs with a very fine pitch you need to be a little more accurate. I'd also use a larger wedge tip (I think its called a C type tip) on the iron, its my personal preference but I like that for loading up with solder and drag soldering rather than doing each pin like you did. But look, I'm not trying to tell you how to do it, in fact I'm sure plenty of people can watch my work and quickly point out a lot of problems. I do think though that practise makes it easier and if you find a way that works well for you then stick at it. Before you know it you'll be swearing SMD is easier and quicker too 😉

I'm about to do this myself. Most of the components are through hole, however there are 1 or 2 SMD parts on it. I've watched other people do it, and what I have seen is that what is called "Solder paste" is used on the pads for SMD components first. It's a silver paste that has both flux and solder in it. When you hit it up with your iron, it become molten solder and sticks right to the pads. Works great. I use it for other things besides that, like tinning wires for example. I would use that first before putting the components on then heat it up and get it all done in one step after the application.

I'm about the same.. i had a hard time getting used to soldering under the microscope but definitely found it useful to check my work afterwards. I've also heard that about smd soldering being easier but i think it's just the smd soldering people screwing with us. 😃

Nice !

Thanks for the information and video. I worked a major company with a lady whose only job was to remove and replace an 800 pin chips to military specifications. She would usually do one an eight hour ship, using a stereo microscope. She made it look easy until you try it your self. I would investigate a PCB holder that rotates 360 or at least 180 degrees to hold most of your boards. It would help you to organize parts placement on your projects. Have a nice week. PS if you can not find a suitable arm, maybe check out a nearby machine shop or the like.

Bring on Randall! (Then I can put a face to a name 🙂 )

I think your soldering efforts are fine!

Advice you didn't ask for: Pin #2 was right at the specular highlight point of one/both of the lights, move them to the side a bit and you should be able to see that pin a bit better. Advice you DID ask for: You should totally put Randall on screen - He'd hate that!

Definitely need to bring Randall on 😊

Randall is like the Gooch, Arnold’s nemesis on D’ffrent Strokes, or Kramer’s buddy Bob Sacamano. I like the mystique of not knowing what he looks like 😂

I got the same one myself a week or so ago and have found the image quality to be very good. Also there's a good amount of room underneath to work, with a tall stand and a nice wide base. Only downside I've found is it could do with a lens between the two. The large lens is great for close up detailed inspection, but not so great to work under. I have done so but it has to be right at the top of the stand to gain enough magnification area to be useful. Then I find, when combined with decrepitude and varifocals, I get a stiff neck. The lower magnification off the other lens is useful for more general work but without the close inspection. It would be possible to move it up and down the stand to increase and lower the magnification but it would be nice to have a lens somewhere in between the two. It is comparatively well priced though, so hard to complain.

Been doing SMD soldering for a while now and, I don't use this term often, but I've mastered it. ;) Trick is to get a hot-plate and use flux paste. Hot-plates are about 50 bucks off eBay and don't need to be expensive. If you can get a stencil too, cool, but you can get away without it if needed although they make things soooo much easier. I don't use my microscope for soldering. Only for visual inspection afterwards, then usually also for fixing up USB-C connectors because they are an absolute pain. Done a few hundred boards now. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes a question of how small the components you use can get. I can reliably solder down to a 0403 or there-abouts. Also, if you ever need to do an SMD component that has a ground plate, you can't do it with soldering iron, or even a heat gun. So yeah, look into hot plates if you are going to be doing more of this.

Just bought one of these after spending hours hand soldering 0.4mm pitch 64pin ICs with an old fashioned magnifying glass.

I use an Amscope binocular microscope and Weller WX series soldering iron with a knife tip for SMD work down to 0201 and even DFN/QFN packages. The knife tip if kept clean and tinned does wonders, and don't skimp on flux! The flux helps keep bridges from forming, and helps you remove excess solder when they do occur. Wash away the flux with alcohol in a sealed container for a few minutes, and wipe away any residue. I'm in my 40's and don't have the best eyesight or motor control anymore, but I find 0402 and TSSOP-24 parts easy to solder, and the 0201 and QFN parts to be the limit of what I am willing to do on a regular basis. 01005's and smaller are still possible to solder by hand, but I wouldn't wish that level of pain on anyone.

To avoid the issues of the blue tack making things uneven, I either tape the board to the bench with some clapton tape, or more often I use my panavise to hold it. I tend to wet one pad with solder, then add a little flux and move the component into place next to the pad (flat to the board, either gripping the component with tweezers at the side or even on top), then re-heat the joint and slide the component in. If it's pretty close you can push it into place and tack down another pin, then go back for the first and do the rest. Or you can re-heat and adjust. It's best to heat the pad/pin and apply solder to the joint rather than bringing the solder-laden tip to the joint and hoping it sticks. You definitely need super fine solder, either 0.46mm or even 0.35mm. For soldering both sides of a component, I've worked out an angle where I can reach both sides without having to spin the board around or swapping hands. That really sped up SMD soldering to the point where it's quicker than through hole. Otherwise it's not any faster when you take into account having to inspect and re-do joints. My eyes aren't so bad that I can't see the joints without magnification (only just), but my neck does get sore after a long session (that's what she said). However I did buy a cheap magnification visor, which does help. Sadly I don't have enough room on either my desk or workbench (if I could actually get to it) for a microscope.

Dear Mr. Lurch: Try a mic-stand/mic-boom combo for your making a DIY arm for it. Cheaper and simpler than the "gas struts".

I get a little sloppy as I use a 1/4 inch wide tip. so Kapton tape helps keeps threw holes clean. A pole extension and a 0.35 lens will help it get up in the air and out of the way. a larger monitor in the back also helps. There are lots of arms and parts available.

Use the Flux, Lurch.

A friend of mine has a soldering plate. When he has a circuit board made, he also orders a matching stencil. My understanding is the stencil fits over the board and only the soldering points show through the stencil. Then he wipes of flux or soldering paste (?) where needed. He then removes the stencil, put the components in place and heats the soldering plate. BINGO. Everything is soldered in place. Now, I am sure it is not perfect. But sounds cools.

Practise makes perfect! Would recommend getting some better flux, those no-clean flux pens are generally average at best, and you'll get much better joints with a good tacky flux

Once you get the microscope hand-eye coordination problem out of the way, then it's removing the old component using the right amount of heat in the right place for the right amount of time that trips me up. Andonstar is a nice deal for us weekend warriors.

Yeah. Wheel out Randall. If not.. a likely substitute representation that will be believable. ;)

Pretty ballsy getting on cam for the first time SMD soldering. It takes a certain talent to use that style of microscope, they are more intended as an inspection device IMHO. If it's any advice I normally wash down a 6 pack of beers before attempting any SMD work, typically calms the nerves down. I can see how most electronic blokes are super chilled like aeroplane pilots ;)

You should try setting the PCB on a flat non-slip surface rather than using the blue-tack. Also, it helps if you press down on the component with the tweezers after you get it in place - that ensures good contact between the component and pads. When soldering the IC pins, it's better to put the soldering on the pad and pushing it up against the end of the pin - putting the iron on the top of the pin doesn't transfer enough heat to the pad underneath. Remember that solder flows towards the heat.

i feel you, im 45, and have same problem, i spent this afternoon refurbishing a sega master system and the damn solder didnt come out, then it wont stick in, only a solder guy will understand us

Randall Live Matters!

I got one of those microscope from Andonstar. My only complain is that the microscope holder is not flexible and the plate is too small for large pcb.

For soldering you can get by with a cheap unit, but they are useless for inspection and fault finding. You really need autofocus so part numbers are automatically in focus when needed and you can hold the pcb under the camera and move it around.

I think a good desk mount magnifier with a huge magnification would be better than one of these for actually soldering, and just use the microscope if you need it

Adding a good amount of flux will definitely improve your SMD game.

I'd definitely review steak knives

Look at the channel Mr solderfix, he is from the UK and has loads of tips and shows you how to solder various different components, and how to remove them for repairing the circuitboards. You may find it useful going forward with any repairs you need to do.

Have to say I agree - I have always preferred the "human Kryten" method of moving my face closer to the board to do this kind of work. The microscope is only useful for inspection in my experience.

When I saw that microscope I thought "Isn't that the one Mark (Mark Fixes Stuff) recently reviewed"? And it isn't... or maybe it is! The only difference I can see is the brand name, so can we maybe call this generic, no-name? The thing is, it seems to work quite well, I wonder how durable this will be though.

This IC was pretty large. You will be grateful to have a microscope when soldering something like a CPLD in QFP format.

The recorded video on the sd card has no audio

I've never tried SMD soldering, but looking at the screen rather than at your hand must be similar to drawing a Wacom tablet, rather than pen and paper.

I suppose the alternative would be an optical binocular microscope which would be in the same price range. You wouldn't be able to record from it, but it would give you depth perception. Let us know about the arm project. Those arms seem pretty expensive, from what my google-fu told me. Would be interesting to see if you can get something done on a hobbyist budget.

Need flux. I suggest checking out Voultar for excellent soldering technique and advice.

Can't remember who but another yt maker made a 3d printed VESA Microscope Adaptor

The catch with the digital scopes (I have one too, but had to pay for mine :-( ) is that you lose the depth perception, which makes soldering under them harder than if you had a traditional binocular scope. That said, I could afford the Andonstar and I couldn't afford a half decent optical scope :-)

Inhale those flux fumes deeply!

if you buy an articulated arm things are a lot easyer' also you can get rid of those side light leds you just tip the camera back or forward to angle the reflected light away , Also get yourself a soldering station the tips you have are way too big .........

SMD size 0201 are my nemezis

So u have a good microscope - plz buy a proper soldering iron (or new tips) - and better flux. (and a pcb holder) ...

Disparaging comment.