If it wasn't for KZfaq this kind of video just wouldn't be out there, thank you for taking the time to make it.

Agg man I'm glad someone posted this. The magnum one of the most overlooked motors out there

Excellent video, I'm about to pull engine from my Grand Cherokee and was a little bit hesitant, now thanks to your video, I'm looking forward to the job! Big thumbs up from a 318 magnum owner from Czech Republic...

Excellent editing, I really like your respect for the viewers' time.

Considering this process and found you 1st in a google search. Great job here. All the basics! Been a lifetime since I did a rebuild!

When you install those rubber ream mail seals, you're supposed to rotate the seal so that 3/8" or so is up on one side and down on the other side. That way the two halves of the seal (the first place pressurized oil will leak through) aren't at the parting line of the main cap.

Good video, only rebuilt an early LA engine years ago, with the help of my dad and brother. They are both licenced mechanics. In the late 80's had a speed shop build my 340, for my 57 D100. Had numerous issues with the rebuild from the speed shop. Intake valve stuck open. Bent push rod, collapsed lifter. Constant oil leak from the oil filter. Small dent in the filter mounting plate. Had no bottom end torque, blamed the purple shaft cam. But it was installed 5 degrees off. Now days, found a good machine shop, but do the assembly myself, with the help from my brother.

I have a 1993 318 Magnum with 192,000 on it running fantastically.. This video is invaluable in seeing all the parts, their spacial shapes and how they work together. I know what to expect replacing a rear main seal.

Thank you sir, you have one of the only videos that is in depth about this generation of the 360/318 and this makes me feel more comfortable with taking on my 318 rebuild with a idea of what to expect and how to do it.

makes me feel better about building my 408 stroker myself

You did a fantastic job. Everyone's a critic on here.

I'm building a 5.9 Magnum right now for a classic Mopar. This video is pretty thorough! Hope you enjoyed making it as much as I enjoyed watching it! Thanks man! =]

I have the same engine and am considering rebuilding it. this is a very solid helpful and informational video. very good work

This is going to help a lot man, doing my first engine build on my 360 wish me luck!!!

SUPERB VIDEO!!! I need to rebuild the engine in my own ram and this is about the most complete video I have seen. You should be the new host of engine power on spike...

Brilliant work mate, this was spot on. Just enough talk, just enough footage. It came together fantastic and the way you talk makes the listener tune in and focus. I had my eyes and ears glued to the screen.

I just picked up a 98 ram 1500 ss/t 360 magnum, and this is going to help my restore alot, thanks for this video video

AWESOME build, I built mine back in 1985.....fyi...I NEVER GROUND DOWN THE SEALING...LOL, to date its still running strong in my challenger....which is now EFI...MOPAR 4 EVER.

Awesome shots and details! I'm rebuilding my 5.2 right now and this helped make things MUCH more clear. Thanks!

Wow! You made me feel like I did all that work flawlessly. Thanks. I'm exhausted.

This video is going to be a great reference when I do my cam.

I'm a huge fan of the technical terms used in this video, such as "Squiggly ones"

Im about to do the same today! However, I soaked my lifters in oil for 24 hours before putting them in.

**** !!!! When installing timing cover...ONLY TIGHTEN BOLTS FINGER TIGHT!!!... THEN install harmonic balancer which kinda aligns cover.... and AFTER that torque down timing cover bolts... This makes sure the rotary shaft seal rides correctly on the crank snout...not tilted, producing an oil leak.... Greetz from Germany

I’ve grown up around engines but I’ve never been able to fully rebuild one. I know quite a bit for being only 18, but the specifics and the little things of actually assembling an engine from the block up, I was unclear about. This video helped clear a lot of things up so thank you! Its still going to be awhile but I’m planning on building a 360 magnum destroyed with a welded and reground 318 crank (makes a 340) and I’m going to have the magnum heads redrilled to run a Weiand tunnel ram with either dual 450 holleys, or a dual 4 EFI setup. It’s all going in my daily driven 71 Dodge D100 short bed, with a built A833 with overdrive, 3.55 suregrip, no power steering. Thanks again for the video, it’s helped a TON. -Statik

Dude!! awesome video. Inspirational. great information thanks for putting in all the work filming and posting.

holy hd. holy definition, thank you for a video with clarity

So just a thought. Since you already have the coolant drained, if you leave the fan off you can pull the radiator and use an impact wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn the motor over and you don't risk any damage to the starter or wiring. I was taught this method as a kid and I've always found it safe and pretty easy.

That was a great video very detailed and to the point. I just bought a 99 dodge ram 5.9l would love to rebuild the engine

It's hard to believe that this only took you 22 minutes! You could be the most profitable mechanic in the world!

Dude you deserve wayyy more subs! just bought a 73 Dart Swinger and your videos are going to make my v8 swap so easy. Thanks for the hard work man, keep it up!

You make look so easy - can tell that you have been doing this type of work for a while. Thank you for sharing.

man I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9. I've never rebuilt a motor before, but I'll rewatch this video. I wish I could rebuilt a complete motor oneday

Watching this video made my job alot easier for me instead of going through the internet to find all the torque specs for this 360 engine I have learned a lot from this how you did this and that is so cool how you had it done that was awesome 👍

mcm95403 comments are on the money. I don't think he is trying to tear MrOffAndOn down, he is just adding good tips and best practices to help people. He isn't making degrading comments or being mean at all. Looking thru the comments and replies, I see a lot of comments by people that think that MrOffAndOn's video is so awesome, that no one should be allowed to give any sort of additional or critical comment. Don't want to own any engine that those people might put together.

Keep making these videos man, probably best one I've seen on KZfaq

Wow man I’m over here worried about taking my cylinder head off haha. Make it look easy good job.

Ditto... thank you for making this video. Now i will be able to rebuild my 360 with confidence.

I learned a couple things, here today. Thanks for that. It's not everyday that I learn something I can use.

Wow man it’s truly amazing that you can do this job and make it look so easy I have learned a lot and hope to be able to do this job soon enough

I loved the video, I have a v6 3.9l I want to rebuild but there's nothing I can find until this, it was very informative and easy to understand, and I appreciate the work into the video as well as your engine

Also don't forget to put the oil slinger back in. It is there to stop excess oil from hitting the seal and then leaking.

This is awesome, Im about to an engine swap on my Ram 1500, and this is giving me motivation. just going to open the block and replace some parts first and then give it a go

My only criticisms are the use of the rtv on the timing cover and water pump. The gasket is enough though not much of a problem, just will clean up easier when the parts need servicing. Then I recommend a 3 stage torque sequence for the reads, crank, and rod bolts. like the head i would have started with 25ft ib, then 75ft ib, then the final. this is just so the bolts and everything are even. Otherwise. Great video. I liked and subbed

These magnums are prone to main seal leaks......sliding your balancer on before tightening the timing cover bolt aligns it so as not to put undue pressure on one side of the seal : )

Awesome video. Great work. Most videos like this are either too short with not enough content or they drag on and on. Perfect.

That Cam shaft is a lot easier to put in and a lot les chance of damaging the cam bearings if you will install it before the crankshaft and pistons are installed that way u can reach down inside the block and guide the cam shaft a lot more accurately minimizing chance of gouging the cam bearings with the lobes on the cam shaft

im not building a dodge, but this was quite a helpful video, Thanks.

Nice video - right to the point. The only thing I would do different is pre-oil the engine with a home made oil pump adapter (who knows, you can probably buy a tool for this, but I made my own years ago). Before putting in the distributor cam gear, (the oil pump is driven by a hex shaped key on the shaft), I use a longer piece of rod that has the right size hex key welded to it and put it in a drill to freely operate the oil pump and ensure oil is flowing through all the rockers, etc. before firing up the engine.

Truly Impressive work, great attention to detail, love your attention to lube and gaps

No matter WHAT "Stage of performance" you're going for, Lose the spark-plug tubes, buy the spring-loaded timing chain tensioner from Mopar, (It's CHEAP, & WELL worth it.) use either loc-tite, or a thin steel "fold-up washer" on the camshaft bolts, & use a high-pressure T/chain gasket, either the carbon-fiber mopar, or fel-pro plastic one. "Glass-top sand" the T/C cover where it bolts to the block, by aerosol gluing a sheet of 600 grit to a large enough piece of glass, & do a small figure-8 motion till the black felt-pen marks you scribbled on the gasket surface are all gone. don't forget to check the balancer to see if it needs a repair sleeve. MSD 8.8 spiral-core wires, and a brass contact dist. cap, other than these tips, good video... & I LOVE my HUGHS victor Jr. style intake manifold. Not just for the extra power, & EASE of install, but NOW I can reach the Dist, plug wires, oil P. sensor, & crank sensor. Next project is a pair of Edelbrock aluminum heads. CAREFUL about sticking anything over an "RV" slight increased power Cam in this vehicle, or get the computer re-tuned by Hughs...HUGHS is THE place for Magnum performance.

One thing you did that could come back and bite you is you used gasket maker on a paper gasket when you should have used gasket sealer on the paper gasket. I just had to tear the entire front assembly off my 318 mopar to fix a coolant leak from behind my timing cover because I did that exact same thing. Mine went several years before it developed the leak so you may be okay but the permatex high tack gasket sealer is what I would recommend on any paper gasket, if you use gasket maker you should not use any form of paper gasket because it is a "gasket maker"

Outstanding!! Love the 360

you give a guy confidence, thanks so much!

Good job Sir ! I have some tips , I reman a lot of A and B mopar engine at a chrysler dealer over 36 years , good advise is to let sit the lifters in a container fill with engine oil for a few times , and you need to check and replace the intake manifold baffle gasket. This gasket many times , have being suck into the plenum , causing oil consumption .

Thank you so much for posting this and going through an explanation for each step of the process. It’s much appreciated!

I have 318 that I'm planning to rebuild Thank u

Thanks for the great video. My 85 360 is in the machine shop and should be finished in about a week. I'll begin assembling as soon as I get it. Its going in my 85 ram charger which has a 318.

I admire your skill and confidence, great job.

Good solid assembly procedure.The two things that I would have done differently would be careful when lubing fasteners and torquing,,I believe wet and dry torque values are different. Second,,,and this is only my opinion, I would be more cautious with F.O.D. ( foreign object damage) , from dirty rags or dirty hands, but overall,,,good procedure,, especially with using the Piston ring expansion tool,,,Mopar or no car!.

Perfect Seal is your friend. RTV is for form in place gaskets, and can leak when used with gaskets.

When you check ring gap you install a compression ring in the top grove of a piston, then use that as a stop to make sure the ring you're checking is square in the bore and NOT too deep. If you had a quality bore job done with Torque plates, pushing the ring down as far as you did puts it in a part of the bore that will be distorted (but gets pulled into place when the head is torqued down) so that gap you're setting is wrong.

Best to turn the block so that the bore you're installing the piston/rod assembly into is vertical - that way the rod won't contact the cylinder wall on the way down. And if you "unscrew" the pieces of hose they come off easily and don't leave little pieces of plastic on the threads.

Last time I saw my brothers 94 Ram 1500 4x4 5 speed. His 318 had over 335,000 miles on it. No rebuild. Still had stock compression. He replaced 2 clutches and a set of brakes. Most everything else was just maintenance and general wear and tear items. He was very easy on his vehicles and drove a lot of highway miles for work. For Jim it was not about performance so much. More durability and reliability. Its why he chose the 318. Always said Moses brought it down from the hill with him. I just got my first Ramcharger. 1983 with a 318/727/208/9.25 R/ 44 F. I cannot make up my mind from my 5 engine choices. LA 318 LA 360 5.2 Magnum 5.9 Magnum 5.7 Hemi Each has it own merits. 320 - 350 HP and 350 - 400 foot pounds torque is what I feel would be nice for a daily driven, sometimes off road truck that weighs 4,000 pounds ish. My obstacle is, I live in a smog city in AZ. So I have to have cats and pass the sniffer. Thanks California you dim light bulbs. Fucking good for nothing left wind dipshit democrats and your save the world attitudes that prevail over our freedom of choice to do what we please with what we own as long as its safe on public roads. Thanks my umbilical cord was cut when I was born and I was kicked out the house at 18. I can handle my own affairs just fine. BTW really well done video that covered the basics. Of course there are tons of ways to do the same thing but, for those who are new. You hit all the big points well enough that it won't lead anyone to failure. Cheers

That was a good build. I was glad to see red valve covers. Dodge use to paint the entire engine red way back in the day. I would have liked to see the truck, and also would have liked to see you drive it a bit.

Yeah I designed my crankshaft for the hydraulic pump without weights so I could weave four seperate blocks around the crank by curving the crank shaft

What a great video!!! Thank you for making it and taking the time to do such a thorough job!

I highly recommend when freshening up an engine or an actual rebuild get lubes and sealers while stuff is at machine shop. Get a tube of #105 from NAPA and bottle or 2 of GM assembly lube at a chevy dealer. The lube is flat out GOOD STUFF, but not cheap. Around $20.00 a pint. Damn well worth it. Use cam lube on the cam

ANY TIME you view the back of your engine,for trans or clutch or what have you,replace those rear plugs,just for grins,its a pain,but so is doing it in the winter

Thanks for this video! I rebuilt a LA 360 and dropped it in my 71 Duster!!

MOPAR smallblock is a overlooked engine,both for truck engines and drag racing,never seen any real problems with the Chrysler smallblock

great vid...simple step by step....great way to learn for a backyard mechanic

I have a 81 Datsun Max wagon that was my mom and dad's but it has a diesel straight six N it. I would love to rebuild it and fix the olé car up. The motor was originally used in tractors. U did a fantastic job and I hope U get many miles out of her ! !

Bad ass and very helpful video I'm gonna rebluid one for my truck now I can use this video to guide me thru thx brotha

You don't use assembly lube (because it's too thick) when plastigauging the mains. You use THIN oil, just enough to protect the bearing surfaces.

I love this I have the 318 Mopar on the bench also the 5.9 both R Mopars your great keep the videos coming I am enjoying them thank you very much

probably best one I've seen

Damn, amazing attention to detail man. Great cautionary tricks along the whole way. You should charge good money for your services.

Hey man loved watching your video very inspirational... my dakota rt needs a nice rebuild like you did there. Keep on man !

I learned a lot from videos like this one. Great job. For more in-depth details buy a book. Great job though!

Mans boutta convince me to take my truck apart😂😂

Good video. You explained what you were doing very well in a short way that was easy to understand. Dont listen to some of these idiots. Keep up the good work.

I wish your where my neighbor, I need to do that yo my dakota ,great video thxs

man the way he put that lube on the cam😂😂

Really informative, I have a 98 Dodge ram. Thank you.

Just so you know I'm not hating at all! lol I just find it funny how everyone of us guys say "This is how I do it" as if we came up with that technique. But in reality You're actually doing it how everyone else does it and how you're supposed to actually do it anyways haha Over all fun video good job.

Great video I used copper spray instead of rtv on mine

Good video the intake manifold threw me off gaurd lmao

Nicely done. Now I’m feeling like a lazy bum for not getting more done on my motor this weekend. 😬

simple but brilliant video. Thanks

I pl;an on just putting a new top end on my existing 318 but this video still helped

Awesome video! I got a '97 5.2 318, and I've been looking for stuff on how to do a rebuild. Will definitely be referencing this.

I normally install the camshaft before the crank because of ease and space, also not to nick the cam bearings.

Very well done. Thank you. Enjoy the new enging

Excellent video friend!! It is the most complete and informative video I have ever seen, I already subscribed to your channel. I have a Ram Van 2500 5.9 engine from 2001, your engine looks identical to the one in my truck, I have a problem that no oil reaches both heads, the crankcase is clean, there is oil pressure, but no fluid came out of the the rocker arms, so what I did was take out the oil and add diesel, turn on the engine for 2 minutes and most of the ducts have been uncovered, but one is missing on the driver's side and three on the passenger side, if I disassemble the rocker arms and clean the rods or should I also remove the elevators?

Fantastic video! Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Great video! I love learning all the little details. Thanks!

It's very common to see a hairline crack between the intake and exhaust valve on 360's and 5.9's. This doesn't hurt a thing. There is no water jacket exposed. Half the 360 and 5.9 heads I've see have these cracks.

Respectable work. Hope it gives good service for a long time.

great! pleasure to watch, nice job!