Some cars easy to get stolen, but megane 2 hard, that's because the security that you said complicated

Glad it helped!

Dal se može taj dio skinuti bez da se šarafa volan?

Have you tried this solution ? I would prefer it to dismouting the steering wheel.... I'm stucked.

Udalo sie?

Hello! I don't think that removing that pin leads to the elimination of the electrical problem of the blocker, what makes it certain is that in case of failure, you can dismantle the blocker and possibly tow the car with the column unlocked.

@@CARe_DEV-Car ​ Thank you for your very quick answer, we had to put the car on top of the tow truck with steering locked (quiet a problem), took it to the garage they say must go to a electrician. maybe try myself your idea.Thanks again.

@CARe_DEV-Car , forgot to the put the situation up to date, I landed up putting a emulator, first one from China didn't work, then came one from France 100%, i used the old lock until the emulator came but it was tricky not only the position but had to be disconnected after the engine started. Thanks for your help. Joe

Hello! I chose the version with emulator. If you don't worry about your steering wheel not locking anymore, it's the simplest option. A NEW immobilizer does not need to be programmed, at first contact it pairs with the rest of the immobilizer system. If you buy a second-hand one, one option is to write its memory from the electronic board in FF (or you can buy an identical memory chip) and then it is seen as new.

@@CARe_DEV-Car Hello, Steering wheel lock removed and then opened and the white part was not cocked but it must be cocked. After I removed the steering wheel lock and opened it, I put the plug on it and the motor ran from the steering wheel lock, then it didn't work again, I have to turn the plug up and down a few times, but that's exactly what it's not supposed to be like . The error DF002 - 1.def is saved with the entry in the clip. Internal electronic error. Just what does that mean exactly? Can I reset the steering wheel lock via Renolink / DDT4ALL and if so, what is the best way to do it? Or can I just take another one if it is not coded and install and delete it reconnects with the car or are there also emulsifiers that could be used so that the car can be moved?

@@CARe_DEV-Car Renault Espace IV, 2.0 DCI, 173 PS, 11.2007

I don't know what can be done with Renolink/DDT4ALL. My solution was simple: I bought an emulator, plugged it in and that's it, no interface was needed and no error appeared on the dashboard.

@@CARe_DEV-Car so you're driving around with an emulator and you don't have a fake lock?

Parerea mea este ca poti incerca si singur sa stergi memoria. N-am incercat, nu garantez. Ce stiu este ca la reprezentanta se practica preturi deosebite.

I have never heard of this message. The idea is that the trigger pin has only a mechanical security role, it has no sensor or something to electronically signal its presence or absence. What bits you leave behind?(spring and plastic housing?) In my opinion, this pieces have nothing to do with the message.

@@CARe_DEV-Car Yes I've ditched the pin, spring and plastic, a smaller spring also came out with the firing pin. When I spin the wheel all works as it should. After connecting to the car, I can hear some weird noise (like an electric engine stuck? But spins freely by hand) Then, the error message pops up on the screen and I need to disconnect the battery to get rid of it.

Does this situation occur with the blocker only connected to the electrical connector and without being mounted on the steering column?

@@CARe_DEV-Car Yes, but previously it worked just connected, hanging. It was a lottery-like, sometimes worked sometimes not, hence me opening it trying to fix it. Do you think the mounting bold needs to be inserted?

Very strange behavior. I don't think the mounting bold has any influence. Maybe the electronic part with the end-of-travel hall sensor has failed and the engine is forcing even though it's at the end.

Foarte urata treaba ai patit ai tu! Din cate am inteles si eu, da, se rescrie la primul contact eprom-ul daca e golit. Eu iti recomand sa "pregatesti" blocatorul daca te hotarasti sa pui altul; la emulator totul e mult mai simplu si fara batai de cap.

@@CARe_DEV-Car pai a activat si pinul ala. Eu a trebuit sa plec de acolo ca luam amenda daca ma gaseau baietii de la parcari si nici nu aveam om chiar asa tot timpul la dispozitie sa ma tracteze. De asta nu am mai dat jos coloana. Daca eram acasa o mai bibileam nu asa in graba. Cum a fost taiat cu unghiularul am nimerit gaura pinului cu un burghiu si a cazut pinul pana la urma de am reusit sa dau si gatul zavorului jos. Am luat unul ieftin sh + o memorie noua sa o lipesc. Banuiesc ca daca e noua e goala, nu are nimic pe ea ca nu am programator si nici n-am chef sa iau acum unul. Da o sa-l incerc mai inainte sa-l dau jos , poate mi-l trimite virginizat, caz in care o sa-i pun un surub obisnuit, nu ma mai complic sa desfac sa polizez piedica aia. Oricum cel vechi nu vad ce mai puteam face cu el decat daca era doar memoria dusa. Insa si la mine imi zicea ca e deblocat volanul desi era blocat. Deci senzorul de pozitie probabil nu doar memoria. Ce imobilizator ai folosit tu? da un link sau un nume ceva sa vad. Daca ma enerveaza din nou pun si eu un emulator. Am auzit ca unii au avut probleme cu emulatorul si de asta sunt mai retinut. Plus pretul nu tocmai ieftin.

Eu acest emulator am cumparat: www.olx.ro/oferta/emulator-esl-dacia-megane-2-3-clio-3-4-captur-scenic-fluece-ID6C0Tk.html Fata de un blocator care are si piese in miscare si senzor de pozitie, cred ca sunt sanse mai mici la un emulator sa pice. Oricum urata treaba cu blocatorul asta.

@@CARe_DEV-Car Problema era la conexiunea +12v dupa contact. Dupa cum mi-a dat pe testerul can clip. pinul 5 de la zavor cu upc ori conexiunea upc cu uch. Sunt 2 modele de upc. Al meu e upc model pana in 2005 desi masina e din 2006. Am curatat cum am putut terminalele conectorilor upc si sigurantele. Verificat rezistenta de contact ale terminalelor. Deocamdata nu mai face probleme. Am luat electronica de la zavorul vechi si am montat-o pe cel luat de pe ebay. Cat a sa tina nu stiu. am sa iau si un emulator desi e posibil sa dea rateu si ala in lipsa alimentarii cu 12v. Am folosit un surub obisnuit cu fosta garnitura surubului de la filtru de motorina sa tina ca bucsa pt surubul mai subtire decat originalul. E model 1.9dci.

Eu apreciez toata staruinta ta si-ti multumesc ca ai impartasit in detaliu toate observatiile tale; sper si cred ca vor fi utile si altora.

Salut! Poate aparea oricare dintre cele doua mesaje.

From what I know, the blocker can be changed plug&play with a new one (unused) or with an emulator. The same thing is possible with a used one whose memory has been deleted. No need for code in UCH.

@@CARe_DEV-Car Hello, Steering wheel lock removed and then opened and the white part was not cocked but it must be cocked. After I removed the steering wheel lock and opened it, I put the plug on it and the motor ran from the steering wheel lock, then it didn't work again, I have to turn the plug up and down a few times, but that's exactly what it's not supposed to be like . The error DF002 - 1.def is saved with the entry in the clip. Internal electronic error. Just what does that mean exactly? Can I reset the steering wheel lock via Renolink / DDT4ALL and if so, what is the best way to do it? Or can I just take another one if it is not coded and install and delete it reconnects with the car or are there also emulsifiers that could be used so that the car can be moved?

@@CARe_DEV-Car Renault Espace IV, 2.0 DCI, 173 PS, 11.2007

Hi! Unfortunately, you cannot use a blocker that was on another car. The only method to use an already used one is to rewrite the memory on the electronic side in FF. This blocker is paired with the UCH. There are emulators, if you don't mind the effective blocking of the steering column.

@@CARe_DEV-Car oh Thanks so much for the reply. But I have absolutely no tools for programming although I will try to check if the mechanical part is the problem. I will try and replace my old electronic part in the new part and see if it works. If it needs programming what cable and software should I need?

@@CARe_DEV-Car one more thing. I tried another part from another car and it only started a couple of times no more. I get it Why! But, what I don't get is that it started with only the sensor attached and the part not in it's place. So only sensor, staying in the air, no bolt or not in the right place. How can it start like that? If the car can start like that then the chip is the problem.on my part

Normally it shouldn't start with the part from another car, but from what you say this has happened a few times. Am I to understand that at some point it stopped starting? If so, what message did you receive? The blocker does not necessarily have to be mounted, you can hold it in the air, the important thing is to be connected to the car's installation. In my part, the electronic part was also the problem, only when I wanted to disassemble it, that pin tripped and it tormented me until I took it off the steering column.

@@CARe_DEV-Car it started 3 times exactly. Only at the beginning. And then it went to the same error steering locked .. what I saw from a video was that it starts only the first time and then it codes it. So now it doesn't start anymore. My problem is I don't know how to rewrite the chip and got no tools

Salut! Piesa aceea e doar o componenta mecanica. Daca nu se poate vedea pe tester e o problema electrica/electronica. Puteti incepe investigatiile pornind de la sigurante...

@@CARe_DEV-Car Seara buna,am testat toate sigurantele-mufele toate sunt bune,ma gindeam oare are ceva legatura daca partea electronica a acestuia este defectata sa nu transmita semnal mai departe catre calculatorul masinii ?

Din cate stiu, sistemul imobilizator pentru Megane 2 e compus din : UCH, calculator injectie si blocator volan - toate imperecheate. Oricare dintre ele nu se poate schimba cu unul sh. Si la blocatorul meu a picat partea electronica. In mod normal integratul de memorie (cel cu 8 pini) se poate scrie tot in FF si la initializare se imperecheaza cu sistemul si astfel ai putea refolosi un sistem functional sh, dar nu garantez. Eu am ales varianta sa-l inlocuiesc cu un emulator.

Salut! Din cate imi amintesc nu avea alte anomalii. Cand scoteam cartela si incuiam becul de la immo doar se aprinde si stingea succesiv, nu ramanea aprins. Poate tot la partea electronica de la blocator ai problema...desi parca l-ai schimbat, nu?

@@CARe_DEV-Car Nu merg nici usile inchise din telecomanda si ramane becul imo din bord aprins. Scap de problema doar daca deconenctez bateria. Probabil se reseteaza ceva acolo cand fac asta. Am incercat alt uch virginizat si la fel. acelasi comportament. o gramada de componente cu "creier" propriu pe masinile astea de nici nu le mai stii unde sa le cauti. Deci de mers zavorul merge fara nici o problema daca ii pun si in scot contactul fara pornire motor. Doar dupa ce opresc motorul da rateu. Ii trimte ecu injectie un samnal ceva ca nu-i convine. Electronica zavorului intr-adevar am folosit placa circuit a fostului zavor care l-am stricat cand l-am dat jos de pe coloana. Cea care o avea clantanea aiurea si cu memoria 24c04 a celui vechi si dadea eroare pe zavor in renault clip.

"Resetul" asta merge doar daca e general? (Borna scoasa) dar dupa ce pornesti motorul si-l opresti daca deconectezi doar blocatorul, nimic? Adica blocajul apare din combinatia calculator injectie-blocator? (caci UCH ai incercat si cu altul)

@@CARe_DEV-Car acealasi rateu si cu blocatorul scos dupa ce am pornit motorul la oprirea motorului. Nu cred ca e din combinatia blocator calculator de injectie. Stiu ca la alta masina acelasi model da doar mesaj dupa care usile se pot inchide normal, si becul imo palpaie normal. plus ca daca il conectez la loc porneste. doar la asta a mea face chestia asta. Am deconectat primul conector negru de la injectie care stiu ca are si terminalul de alimentare injectie + si nu se reseteaza. Se reseteaza daca desurubez cablul gros rosu de pe upc prins cu un surub de 8mm de bronz/alama. Stiu ca si upc -ul are un controler al lui insa nu stiu daca e de la acel controler sau altceva. O sa mai fac niste masuratori de tensiuni maine la zavor si releul uch. sau as putea sa deconectez sigurante de pe upc sa vad care declanseaza reset-ul. Daca ar fi comanda a upc-ului nu pot sti daca e direct ceva defect legat de el sau o comanda scurta de vre-un modul care semanleaza o neregula dupa care ramane upc -ul sa deconecteze si sa mentina deconectat la ordin.

Sal. In cele din urma s-a dovedit a fi UPC-ul de vina. O folosesc de 2 zile fara probleme. Mi-a dat semn ca e ceva in neregula cu el intrucat de fiecare data cand cuplam bateria masina se comporta aiurea. fie pornea ventilatorul motorului fie impreuna cu farurile fie era ok fara devieri. Nu stiu ce o fi determinat defectarea lui in trecut intrucat nu eram eu proprietarul ei. Sper sa nu se mai defecteze din nou. Sanatate .

Salut! Emulatorul practic anuleaza functia de protectie impotriva furtului a blocatorului de coloana de directie. Acum fiecare cum considera, dar eu unul nu-mi fac nicio grija legata de furtul ei. Cine vrea sa o fure, scrie o cartela noua in 2min, daca intra in ea, si astfel trece si peste blocatorul original.

@@CARe_DEV-Car ok . Ma gandeam ca fiind o chestie de “safety” sa nu-mi afecteze comportamentul masinii cand ruleaza . multumesc mult pentru raspuns

Feteanumihai@gmail.com

Hi, If the steering lock is perfectly functional and you remove the firing pin (bolt) and its spring, everything will work perfectly and without the risk of not being able to remove it from the column in case of a defect.

Salut! In cazul meu s-a defectat componenta electronica. Fara ea nu se poate porni nici motorul iar coloana era blocata.

@@CARe_DEV-Car adica motorasul ala sau senzorul de pozitie zavor sau firele de conexiune, conectorul, memoria? am si eu o problema similara la megane2 in sensul ca de multe ori ramane deblocata coloana. Eu am putut scoate surubul. Inainte sa-l demontez am sa verific cablurile, conectica si sigurantele de la upc si uch. La mine e inchis intr-o cutie din tabla zavorul coloanei.

@@crigeorge9549 Motorasul functiona, eroare de nerecunoastere a blocatorului n-am primit... banuiesc ca o eroare a senzorului a fost. Am observat ca are un senzor hall si cred ca problema a aparut pe partea de detectare a pozitiei . Eu l-am inlocuit cu un emulator si a mers de prima data si fara probleme pana acum. Dupa ce am reusit sa-l dau jos, l-am conectat si cand incercam sa pornesc masina, motorasul retragea partea metalica si forta de vreo 3 ori la capat de cursa si apoi aparea eroare cu steering locked - de aici am concluzionat ca a fost o problema pe partea de detectie a pozitie inchis sau deschis.

@@CARe_DEV-Car da. pare a fi o problema a senzorului de pozitie.Senzorii se mai strica periodic. la mine insa nu se inchide fizic zavorul ala. De deschis merge. pare a fi problema mecanica.

Dar pare macar ca incearca sa impinga motorasul? Sau e liniste totala?

Cel mai probabil la tine e componenta electronica.