MST RMX 2.0 RTR - Box Stock Build Series Week 4

MST RMX 2.0 RTR - Box Stock Build Series Week 4 - Scale Science

Рет қаралды 22,906

Күн бұрын

Join us as we take the plunge into the old days for us and show newcomers the easiest way to take their ready to run cars and get into doors at their local track!
We spent a total of $35.99 in week 3 adding a Scale Reflex Light kit and our 5 pinion tuning pack. The car is at its absolute peak in stock(ish) performance for our layout. Our added parts total just under $150 extra spent on upgrades so all in all we have stayed true to what someone in the lowest budget spectrum can accomplish!
Next week, we will install our New _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ and show you the ins and outs of what we like to use to enhance your drifting power and experience!
Drop us a comment below if you discovered the clue!!
Stay tuned for more to come from Project Get DOORS.

Пікірлер: 84

@81_Customs 2 жыл бұрын

Great vid. Thx for doing this and look forward to seeing what you guys think of the high motor mount position 😉

@scaledynasty Жыл бұрын

Loving this series, great content and great information!

@ajustice2010 2 жыл бұрын

Heck yea! Thanks for all the specs, so excited to see how far this little car can go without anything crazy added mostly just a hand full of small tweaks makes a world of difference, I too am excited to see the difference with top mount and 26t?

@playz9847 2 жыл бұрын

Love the layout of this series, I appreciate the uploads! 🔥

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for tuning in!

@RemyRodrigues 2 жыл бұрын

As always great video, very informative!

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Remy!

@RcPty2 2 жыл бұрын

Soo cool bro, good job., stuning series

@shredcraftrc 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome! The lights look great! I just did the same thing to mine and so can’t believe how bright they are!

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

It’s awesome right? What kit did you go with?

@shredcraftrc 2 жыл бұрын

@@ScaleScience I ended up going with generic Amazon bulbs and then a switch so I can turn them on and off from channel 3.

@aqualoks Жыл бұрын

Great one nice hobby, from PH

@TheDanFromOz Жыл бұрын

Doin a good job fella!

@lonelyslider5430 2 жыл бұрын

Hell yeah more knowledge drop!!!!!

@Nick_Parau 2 жыл бұрын

Futaba for the win. :)

@adamshomo3354 2 жыл бұрын

The 12 degrees of camber in the front, is that the setting you were trying to achieve? Or would you dial in less camber with an adjustable turnbuckle, or more? I guess my question is, is 12 degrees in the front desirable for rc drifting in general? Great video, loving this series!

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

12 degrees of camber was necessary to achieve a flat contact patch on the lead tire in drift which aids front end grip and handling dynamics. Also helps the tires return to center a little easier.

@adamshomo3354 2 жыл бұрын

@@ScaleScience appreciate the info, I'll adjust mine accordingly 👍

@RealJawnes 2 жыл бұрын

Any thoughts and tuning for the nge? Wondering what you had to change as far as front end wise to make it drive better. Caster? Camber?

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Update on the NGE is coming soon. I’ve been so dang busy with the shop I haven’t had a huge opportunity to drive and when I am it’s on this rtr. Hopefully soon I can come back with some thoughts from myself and a few other locals with the NGE

@odomandr 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for going over the setup in detail. One question about the front lowers.... Stock I have 5mm of shim adding 2mm gives me 7mm total but you said 8mm total after you added yours.... I'm building the classic kit maybe the rtr comes with an extra mm???

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Make it 8

@odomandr 2 жыл бұрын

@@ScaleScience I noticed a bit of binding at full lock & full droop l; curious if the adjustable tie rod fixed that or if I should shave a bit off the lower arm/spindle where it's touching

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

@@odomandr post photos on our discord or fb pages so it’s easier to see the issue

@001blackmax 2 жыл бұрын

Great video! What size and brand is the old black f100 body?

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

1:10 it’s an old Vaterra Body

@rcloner1895 Жыл бұрын

What set of shims should I pick up for the lower camber on the front arms? I run the YR turnbuckles but it didn’t include one for the lower camber you had shimmed to 8mm

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

We use a variety you can find shim kits on Amain, Amazon, super G, lots of retailers. Biggest importance is getting M3 shims and get a variety of thicknesses. I like .25/.5 1mm and 2mm for base shims as you can build pretty much any size that way.

@B4life23B 2 жыл бұрын

I’ve been loving the series bro good shit. I believe it’s a Subaru with the green rims would you happen to know where to get that body that thing is sick?

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

It’s an old Yokomo shell!

@nicholas7930 Жыл бұрын

How did you guys attach the steering servo to the chassis… double sided sticky or screws?

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

Screws. Sticky tape wouldn’t be a good idea

@gearhead762 Жыл бұрын

Cover the backs of the leds with black Tulip fabric paint. It blocks unwanted light.

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

Great tip thank you!

@danielexiovus4860 2 жыл бұрын

so I've tried a similar tune to copy your setup running 8mm on the lower arm 6mm on the top and a bout 14.5 in the mid to match the measurements, and running a reveD servo too and larger MST servohorn/saver, I cant reach full steering lock.. Im still running my servo in the stock postion, and I've also tuned remote and tried to gain more throw from the servo but I cant get full lock, is that due to not running the servo in the same configuration/positioning as yours?

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

No sir. There’s an adjustment point between the two ball cups that go from the servo to the steering wiper linkage. Make that linkage longer and you’ll have more throw. Don’t forget to re-center your horn after you do.

@danielexiovus4860 2 жыл бұрын

@@ScaleScience thanks heaps I cant wait to try this out

@ericatkinson4800 2 жыл бұрын

Transmitter & receiver next? Thus the futaba receiver in this vid?

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

What a legend! Way to pay attention Eric!!

@will8325 Жыл бұрын

Did the 24 tooth pinion slide straight on? Or did you have to loosen the motor mount first?

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

Will, anytime you change pinions you’ll want to make sure and properly adjust the gear mesh between the pinion and spur by loosening the motor’s mounted position and ensuring good lash between.

@will8325 Жыл бұрын

@@ScaleScience did you tighten the motor back up all the way? That's what I did and it's basically cooked all the teeth on the spur 😅 Every time I let go of accelerate as well it would lock up instantly. Definitely had to much pressure on it from tightening the motor back once I wedged the pinion on

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

@@will8325 yeah, you’ll want to address some proper techniques for setting pinion mesh. Tons of helpful tutorials out there.

@dallaswrc8250 2 жыл бұрын

When I had my rmx I cut the chassis so that the rear arms wouldn’t hit the deck to give me more droop same with the front lower arms.

@shredcraftrc 2 жыл бұрын

Good idea, I’m going to try this!

@tothegrave13 2 жыл бұрын

i did the same and it was great

@JasonBellRC 2 жыл бұрын

PLEASE post part numbers with URLs or in the video somewhere. Tracking some of this stuff down (yokomo ends for example), is a bit difficult for newbies!

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Buy them from us!

@JasonBellRC 2 жыл бұрын

@@ScaleScience Can’t find them on your website? Only see 2 pages of products.

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

@@JasonBellRC they aren’t listed. Shoot me a message on Facebook to our scale science page or on IG to the same. We will get you all squared away with a personal touch.

@demonslayer9772 Жыл бұрын

How does the led bulbs stay in the light bucket? Did you use glue?

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

Yes glued in. I prefer shoe goo for longevity (but it takes longer to dry) or hot glue for quick install (doesn’t hold up as long if you hit stuff.)

@demonslayer9772 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your reply. I am worried of unable to remove the glued LED bulb when the time comes of needing to replace them.

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

@@demonslayer9772 that’s why I use shoe goo and hot glue. Removeable if need be

@SpeedyySlugz Жыл бұрын

What shock oil weight are you guys running?

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

The stock MST dampers are dry in the RTR’s and 100CST(10 wt silicon) in the Yokomo dampers.

@dgonzales540 Жыл бұрын

What chassis is that c10 on? Is there one that would fit mst rtr?

@ScaleScience Жыл бұрын

Not entirely sure! The c10 bodies are from vaterra and in the low motor layout, it will fit perfect, otherwise you may have to do some cutting!

@play3rmodfl727 2 жыл бұрын

I have this exact same car. Are the dimensions for the shims, 3.1mm id x 3mm w x 6mm od

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Roughly!

@4door_papi 2 жыл бұрын

When will the lights be back in stock?

@ScaleScience 2 жыл бұрын

Message us on Fb or Instagram and I’ll get you squared up on some lights!

@Fbody_123 Ай бұрын

I did all these mods added the shims but now I have a lot of toe

@ScaleScience Ай бұрын

Adjust it! Make sure your steering rack is same as ours and just keep tabs on the Ackerman throughout travel range 🤌

@Fbody_123 Ай бұрын

@@ScaleSciencehmmm okay cause I did the same measurement 12mm and my front wheels are pointing out words a lot But then I tried 14mm and the wheels went back to normal not to aggressive or unless that’s completely normal for this setup

@ScaleScience Ай бұрын

@@Fbody_123⁠it would be much easier to reply to this if you could post this maybe on fb so we could see a photo, maybe a quicker back and forth? We have a 7K+ member group on fb. Scale Science RC. Jump in there and make a post and let’s talk setup

@Fbody_123 Ай бұрын

@@ScaleScience okay sounds good I sent pictures and a description of what’s happening hopefully you guys see it thank you 🙏🏾