Heres the Amazon link for the spray foam gun: amzn.to/44BIBT4

Holy hell, I’ve seen the old drywall screw/joist hanger trick but man, floating it over the romex is legendary. The load capacity of a drywall screw hanging 3/8 out with only 3/4 in the wood MIGHT be about 20 pounds. Amazing craftsmanship

Good advice on this build out. Tip on using a table saw cutting foam. Buy the thinnest blade, like a 7 inch diameter 1/8 inch thick plywood blade. But run the blade backwards so the teeth do not grab chunks. It will cut very well but leave less foam dust.

An easy way to skip the saw/trim method on the foam is spray it lightly with water immediately after so it cures fast. Also the foil face foam is an added expense that adds no value in this scenario if you put insulation over it. It requires an air space over the foil for its reflective feature to work. If you can buy it without the foil you will save a few bucks.

I will say this. You don't miss a trick. You are very detail oriented. Excellent job. Like Doug said. Can't just listen. Definitely have to watch. Always appreciate the humor.

So clicked on the vid because I am about to insulate my new 30x40. As soon as I seen the ladder stunt I had to click the like because that's the things you do in the shop when the boss isn't around lol. Then I clicked the sub before you even put up the first piece of insulation up because you have made this more than just a "this is insulation and this is how I put it up". NICE JOB, and yeah I picked up a couple of ideas I haven't seen yet so thanks for that hehe

Just a tip or two. Use a cheap multi-length razor knife and straight edge to cut....no messy saw. Next, trimming excess greay stuff with any serrated edge knife works well. I use a 10" bread knife.

I tried watching this while I was painting some baseboard trim. It is impossible to just listen to your channel. Everyone of them is a must watch also. You just don’t know what you are gonna do next. I actually LOL when you pulled the insulation board on to yourself out of the truck!!

I love a multi tool to trim the foam insulation. It's so fast.

Joists over romex! The new standard! 😂

I've been thinking of spray insulation on my "shouse" but its messy, costs a bit, hard to do it yourself when I've never done Spay Insulation..., I like your share on this subject and I enjoyed your candor and humor. Nice work! Thank you.

I've been doing pest control for 24 years, good job with the tallstar. Good product and you applied it well !. For best control of lady bugs and stink bugs, spay exterior of buildings around late September. Great video !

Thinking about doing this in my shop just to get it tightened up the rest of the way. That foam gun is amazing as I've wasted good product before due to only needing about half the can at one time. Thanks for the tips! Dude, that foam unloading sequence had me dying! I appreciated the humor. Liked and subbed.

Since spray foam can expand into more than 1/4", you can cut the foam board to be even looser, and just use a couple chunks of foam on the bottom as spacers/shims to hold it up. This will also mitigate the need to cut the spray foam and expose those cells. Or, if you use a foam gun and have really good technique, you can lower the output of the gun and deliver only the perfect amount to the joint such that none comes out. But I think it's easier to just cut the foam loose, fit it easily, and blast the butt joint with foam. Keep up the great videos!

a fined toothed hand trowel makes a nice flush cut saw.

Talstar Pro was one of 3 main insecticides that we used in Pest Control as an exterminator. Great choice for insect control. On your exterior 3 ft up & 3 ft out around the base of your building you can use Termidor SC or Taurus SC(same product with active ingrdient but cheaper than Termidor). In the fall we would treat the foundation again, along with the eaves, around the windows, and any other gapped exterior spot for box elder bug & asian lady beetle control going into winter. We used Oneguard for that fall treatment.

That same PolyPro insulation from Lowe's is $21.26 a sheet here in Western Washington. Wish I could get your price. The Pole Barn is looking great.

One point to note about filling gaps with spray foam, if the gap is deep you may not get complete fill. Latest tech is expanding foam tape round all four side, guaranteed fill of gaps.

Thanks for the tip about the foam gun I would not have ever purchased one without seeing one in action. I can see it would be a very handy tool to have.

Just a safety concern, specific to flammability... EPS is flammable and toxic when it burns. Being careful with flame and ignition, of course...good idea to also have fire control devices within easy reach

The most impressive thing is how you ran wifi over a cable. But seriously, I love this build, and it was a fun video, thanks

I did this exact thing on my 30x40 shop roll up door. Helped a TON. That door used to be a heat/cold PUMP. air in front of it was ether rolling up or down with hot or cold air. Now is it is 100 plus on the outside it is something like 72 on the inside of the door. I hate having to fix other people f-up crap. Been doing it all my life at work and at home.

I totally LMAO when you "dang it!" on the table saw. When ever I do stuff like this I exclaim "Stupid Machine!" Great job and I will do this on my over the garage space.

Great video, Kyle. This is a video I'm going to remember for when I have saved enough $$ to insulate my garage and my big 40x60. I never would have thought about that Great Stuff gun. That's genius.

Previous carpenters seemed like real pros lol. It’s incredible to see how poorly other people build. Nice to see the neat, tidy professional install of the foam board

Great video! Learning while grinning is a good combo. Thanks for posting this really helped me decide my choice for insulating my garage. Similar construction including "creative engineering" features like under sized fasteners or wiring that did not meet the amp load for different circuits.

wow, good find, looks great now, Thanks for sharing...

EPS = Expanded Poly Styrene. A variant version of styrofoam. White beaded = common "beer cooler" foam. Pink and blue building foam common to Home Depot, Lowe's and other building supply stores, sheet is very similar material but would not be as good for flotation as the white beaded version. The metalized backing on yours helps protect the foam from UV and acts as the vapor barrier for the pink or blue, since they don't seal as well as the white beer cooler foam.

I'm doing the same in my shed office. I used metal tape to keep the foam board in place. I'm also cover the wood with the tape to help with thermal bridging. I almost have it all done. Looks like an airplane in there but it's super warm. Thinking about using fiberglass insulation also.

Good timing. I have an installation project coming up and there were some great tips. I will try unloading the foamboard from the truck one bundle at a time. wouldn't want to follow over or anything.

You hooked me with the Elvis karate move at 0:30 lol, classic!

Good video and liked your presentations, especially you telling us the cost of materials. Your humor definitely made me subscribe! Good luck, look forward to your next video.

Probably too late but if you use strapping before you put your finish wall up you will still get your reflective value from the foil face. Did this to an old cape with 2x6 rafters with 2 layers of 2 in.foil board. Ripped some blocks to bump the foil flush with inside of rafters allowing a proper vent behind. Sealed everything with foil tape strapped and drywalled. Did this so I wouldn't lose ceiling height and gave me a 28.8 (2×14.4) r value.

One could have laid the eps over the beams and sealed it with foam, and left an 1.5 inch sealed air gap would have given you some more r value. Talstar needs to be applied regularly. pesticides are designed to break down over time. Diatomaceous eatmrrh in the wall will kill bugs for a long time.

You are too funny in addition to a great educator. Thanks for the edumacation 😉 and the laughter.

Nice work on the exterior insulation board!

Pole barns and houses, it's more about eliminating air infiltration than 'R' values. Framing lunber has an 'R' value of '1' per inch, so every 8' of your perimeter walls have the approximate equivalentvof 16 square feet of area that has an 'R' value of 1.5, plus about another R for the air film. Thermal energy moves like water and electricity, via the path of least resistance, so when your done, get a FLIR survey (you'll be able to coubt every framing member through the energy transfer). The poisoning of your space with pseticides is absolute genius. I hear RoundUp is really good for kids too. Goldblat makes some wicked insulation knives. Curious what you did about that giant heat sinknthat you're standing on. Most pole buildings that have a SOG also have bare edge concrete w/ no thermal break or under slab insulation, so lots of heat to warm that slab and about a foot of earth under it. You are entertaining. 🙂

We live in the “Age Of The Drywall Screw”… Everybody seems to think they are a structural connector. Cracks me up every time I see them used improperly. Most people don’t understand the issue of the hardness of steel and how if the hardness is too high, it can’t be used structurally because it can’t handle any sheer impact or load. I have seen tico nails that have been under excessive strain in a hanger application for many years, and when they are pulled out, they have bent over time but not sheered off. And that’s what you want, my friends!

Good to know. I was told to keep foam board on the inside of the girts. I have typical steel siding.

EPS= expanded polystyrene insulation - and simple math. If 1" is R rating 6.65 then 1 1/2 is 9.975.

as i insulate our metal pole shed i have been writing the measurments on the walls or posts in sharpie markers for easy reference. i just picked up a bunch of harbor freight led shop lites for it at 17 $ each is pretty good buy lights have been in a year now (shop work in progress) no problems with them so far. the little plastic hacksaw handles might work good for the trimming up easier on hands maybe ?? fun vid dont get buried to deep in foam board:)

Your a good source of info to advise a guy like me (I could have been the guy that did the first construction) to get help insulating my finished 3 car garage. Thanks so much for helping with my anger management at the thought of doing this job. Oh and the facula tick went away.

Lol you are very entertaining especially when being flattened by rogue foam boards

get the tips for the spray nozzle, it makes application and cleaning 10x better. couple bucks

I did exactly what you just did a few years ago. Table saw, shop vac and spray foam gun. Only thing different, and be glad you had it, was the 3/4" on the outside. I had the ribs in the steel siding to deal with getting behind the posts. That spray foam gun is worth every penny paid for it. Works amazing! Amateur tip, lol. Gumout carb and choke cleaner cleans the foam up as good as the great stuff cleaner. Acitone is what it is. Great with the hack saw blade. I used a multi tool with a DULL blade. Nice video, comedy appreciated 👍

FYI I like to use a really dull multi tool blade or even a scraper blade on the multi tool itself for trimming the spray foam.

Ladybugs and stink bugs by the thousands. I feel your pain. You designed and executed this solution EXACTLY as I plan to do mine. Well done. You even got the bug proofing right. Spray foam is a highly preferred solution but so dang expensive. Plus the added strength it adds but alas, big bucks. I also plan an “interior stud wall” that will sit between the vertical posts and will likely go with regular old fiberglass insulation (ease/cost). An alternative is the blown in insulation that is sprayed through a screen and will fill the void better. Great video of an alternative lower cost method.

Hell Yeah! I love the way you pay attention to detail.

Great job!!!

The hacksaw blade action close up - I get it.

Good work, that's really some ..Great Stuff😄 it will be nice once its finished.

That hacksaw trick is awesome.

Dry air gap has an R-value of 3.6 per inch of air so include that in cal of insulation

Liked it! Well done!

Table saw can stir up a lot of insulation dust, a Bread Knife works really well

Kyle, also wanted to mention, at the 11:06 mark, your reference to the spray foam.. You gotta 'stutch' it in first to get 'stickage' before it 'splooges' out!.... "Come- on Man" ...splane yerself! Nice job tho. Happy Wife, happy...? ...You know the thing!

Some of this stuff I knew and other tricks I didnt. I'm very detail oriented as well so your detail work looks great. I immediately subscribed because of the times you got upset, (because it reminds me of me), or had mishaps that really made me laugh! Again, because everyone has them, including me, and man did I laugh! So Thank You for that!

Thanks for providing a link to the spray foam gun. I need one of those. I'm tired of trying to plug up the tubing after each time I use it and then wasting half a can on top of that when it gets clogged up. Hmm, it took me to amazon, but didn't take me to the item. Ok, so the link farther down worked. Thanks.

SPLOOGE !! LOL Great video as usual man! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦

use the medal on the bottom up 36in hight because then you can spry the floor with out worry about getting your walls wet and it work best if you do car work in so o you can spry the floor and the dirt and s tuff wont stick to the walls i have enven done in a resuraunt because the ower was getting tire of fixing the wall were kiods kik the walls and it made a lot easyer for his worker to cleand the walls too

OSB on wall s for sure, but I would use Delta rib metal on the ceilings. Do the math, its cheapest, most durable, and maintenence free.

excellent episode. I'll be using it myself

sounds like the Amish barns built back home, they never had a consistent spacing, even the houses wouldn't. But as an electrician I doubt you've seen too many on the job.. =) only other suggestion I would have said, too late now, is to "glue" the poly boards together with the good stuff, as they sit behind the vertical beams, there is still some thermal bridging in that small gap between the poly boards and the inside face of the vertical beams.

Awesome job. Keep up the good work

It's a good thing you're a professional.

when I built my 48x72 shop two years ago by myself pretty much it too me 6 months with concrete over 88 yards....anyway all the authority people that did not know said spray foam and nothing else. Got a price 6000 grand even how does that even happen an even number estimate. Looked a the foam board and at the time the spray was a third of the spray. That's what i am using, I paint the panels with house paint white and cut them to fit using 2x2 and screws to hold them up, you don't see the wood its under the foam. I have scissor truss and did not want the mess on my trusses, so this works so much cleaner and cheaper and still warm. I just priced the board you use and 2 inch is a third of the foam board. Heading out to try you way on some other area's the walls we will see if paint sticks just have to be careful, but it should be great thanks

Thanks COOP ...

Thanks for the hacksaw blade tip, that should work way easier than the long extendable "click" knifes. I have used this method with the XPS and polyiso foam boards quite a bit, it works great. I have found, especially with the thicker foam sheets, that I like to have at least 1/4 inch to 3/8" gap around the foam board to easily get the tip of the insulation gun into, that way the foam fills the whole void and you aren't trying to follow a thin gap that is easy to spray the foam onto the surface of the panels instead. Just what i have found, others mileage may vary. Enjoy your videos as always, have a good one!!👍

I enjoyed this video.....Thanks

trusses on 8-10’ centers seems legit

Nice work as usual. Did the same thing on our prefab metal shed for our tack room. We went with LP Smartside instead of drywall. Paints easy and moisture resistant. BTW - Buying that gun from your link for sure. Hate those plastic tubes and wasted money on dead/half used cans a month later. 🍻 👍

Been doing this in Canada for years. Now do this in New Hampshire

I'm actually doing a similar style install. 1.5" between the gerts and adding a 2" layer over top with offsetting the seams. Then putting .5" osb over that. I'm not looking to hide the posts. I just want the wall space to mount things and get stuff off the floor. My barn is a 48'x64' with 16' walls. I'm not looking forward to getting insulation up on the trusses.

That's how I like my foam insulation and my woman........Cheap and Effective........

you sound like me working on my barn. It's amazing how many inanimate objects are Mother effers!

love your staged? accident unloading the foam!!

Talstar P is an excellent and safe product.

Nice work, I like the fact that the lack of glove ware does not bother you. I appreciate your dedication. Those &*^%in splinters hurt! I have had more success with foam board in flat wall assemblies. 2 14in of board will be great. You took a soso building and made it great. Recycling buildings is the way to go.

Great vid.

I have a question does the foam not Build mold in betwin air space meral wall an foam board ?

Great to see another tradie with the common sense to unplug their stuff to make sure kids dont accidentally turn it on. 👌

I just put the same foam board up in my shop and faced it white side out. I've only done 1 10' wide wall . wondering if I should tur it around? haven't secured beside tighter tolerance and no spray foam.

I like this guy. Don’t ask me what EPS stands for cause I really don’t give a shit. I just subscribed to this channel

Question: Why put up the old plywood over the foam board if you planned to frame out to the post dimension? Was it for racking strength? Provide a nailing surface? Just didn't want to waste it? Not a criticism, just curious.

that's hilarious. good call starting over.

Great Job! And funny! That alone earned you a LIKE and a SUB! 🤣

Pin nailer... I'll have to try that sometime...never! LOL!!

AMVIC makes EPS Silverboard in many thicknesses and it comes as 4'x8' or 9' at R5 per inch. 1.5" costs $0.94 per sq ft CDN EPS is expanded (by steam) poly styrene which is less costly than XPS (extruded) as you mentioned but EPS also retains its R value over the years and XPS does not..... XPS can take on water which would be a problem on the exterior PACIFIC ICF

Have a detached garage and i am looking at options to insulate. I want to insulate the ceiling first and i do not plan on putting sheetrock. Plan on painting the trusses and everything black to have an industrial look. Can this foam board be painted? Do you think it would be a good option to keep the garage from getting so hot in the summer? Looking at spray foaming this spring but open to foam board.

The hack saw blade does cut the foam nicely. I wonder if one of those oscillating multitools would save your wrist. Unless, of course, you've already got an over-developed right hand :)

Good info and a good laugh. Well done bud🤣👍🇺🇸

EPS = expanded foam - basically Styrofoam same as packing material that you get when you break it apart those white balls that stick to everything.

Do you heat/cool the area? If so how’s it working out?

You probably already put the OSB over the foam board. I would not do that as even with a gap between it and the next layer of insulation (foam? Batts?) it is a potential moisture entrapment location. There is such a thing of having a building wall too airtight. Building needs to breath. I refurbished a 1945 house with 2x4 walls in 2011-2014 from mud sill to roof. Building department said I needed to use spray in foam to get the required R value. What a mess that turned into, especially with the insulation contractor (will never use them for anything again). When one sprays in the foam they normally saw off the bulge between the studs; not that company and debating it with them did no good. They came they sprayed and just wanted their money. I spent about 40 hours scraping the bulge down level for sheetrock. Building department said with the airtightness of the building that there had to be a fan with a 1 hour timer that needed to be run once a day to purge the moisture out of the house. I read since to, that the spray in foam against wood can sweat and rot the wood. I have since sold the house so not my problem; I did however tell the new homeowner about the need to purge moisture. I think if I ever did it again I would double up the 2x4''s to get the distance for using regular fiberglass insulation.

The joist hangers over the wires was meant for a future heater.

Fricken chill man.

Nice, real real nice I says!

If you don’t have the 3/4 down first would you just put this against the metal building?

What would you do if the walls were bare metal with no previous insulation between the wall and wood??? We moved into a place with bare interior walls.

Here the question, I am a little leery of using spray foam due to flammability. I worry about a space going up based on some test videos on here. Can anyone recommend a higher R value product that I can use?