Honestly Frank, I could sit hear and listen to you talk about your old tools all. day. long.

I had a furniture-making business - I had a radial arm saw, a bandsaw, a planer-thicknesser and a lathe. With those machines and my hand tools, I reckon I covered all the bases. The bandsaw was indispensable, but I used the Shopmate radial arm saw ALL the time - it was SO versatile! I probably did all the things you mentioned in the manufacturer's claims - and, I still have all my fingers!!

I grew with the old DeWalt radial arm saw and was taught all the things you mention. I'm a little more comfortable with them than the table saws although I have a healthy respect for what they can do with wood and flesh.

Having a few radial arms saws is also so convenient in terms of swapping blades

I really could have used this video 25 years ago. Thank you, Frank.

I'm a woman..a barber stylist retired. Still very young 😂 I can't believe I sit here with my ginormous cat on my lap and watch you and all these tools and things you make every single day. I binge watch you instead of Netflix now. This is much more informative and entertaining. You are so funny too

Thanks for this post, Frank. Now I don't feel so alone. Currently, I am down to four RAS, all sharing the same bench and each dedicated to a single purpose: the biggest and most powerful strictly for 90 crosscuts with gauging fence; one for dado; one with inexpensive blade for chopping up trash; and one set up like a shaper with a pair of blades spaced to the desired thickness of a tenon. On very large, heavy stock, cutting tenon cheeks by moving the saw carriage rather than with a sliding table feels very safe and effective. Of course initial level setup of the table and a custom guard are a must.

Thanks, Frank. I have my dad's MBF that he bought new in about '58, a Craigslist early 1030 from about 1960, and a 5 horse, 14" GE, single phase. I grew up on the little one and did most of the crazy stuff that they showed in the books...cut semicircular grooves in faces of boards, ripped untold feet of lumber--inrip and outrip, even broke down plywood with the sheet vertical, resting on the floor. It all works if the saw is aligned and you're careful. Only ever had one bad kickback, on a little workpiece, and it was a missile. I also have a carcass of a 16", TEN HP, long arm GEX. It was abused and somebody may have paid for that, as the arm end cap is brazed together where the carriage once burst through on its way out the end of the arm. The stop bolt was missing when I got it; probably was on the day all hell broke loose, too. I'd hate to have seen that, but the advantage of underpowered MB-whatever's is that they hardly have the torque to run away like that. They generally stall.

Frank, your videos are always great. I love the fact that you mix up topics - sometimes your building something and other times you're just walking is through your thoughts on something. It keeps it very interesting as a viewer when I never know what I'm going to get! Keep up the great work!

As a long time woodworker myself, I remember my dad using a R.A.S. like the ones you show. Recently, an elderly neighbor, and good friend, at 90+ yrs. old, gave me a similar model MBC that he had abandoned many years ago. I currently have it in my shop, awaiting as a retirement project, when I will restore and continue to use it. You are an inspiration for using older equipment. Thanks for the video. Steve

Thank you for always making really good videos frank. You are a huge inspiration!!

I had an old Delta in a small shop at my last home. Due to room, I saw it as a luxury. When my shop expanded, I became enamored with Jay Bates' miter saw station. In hindsight, I wish I had created a set up like yours, but that'll be for a shop down the road. BTW, there isn't a video of yours that I watch that I don't get distracted by your shop. You did a really nice job with that.

Well it did rip that board...right out of your hands! HAHAHA. I'll show myself out.

You mentioned the "versatility" of the radial arm saw. I wanted my first power saw to be a radial arm saw just because of this feature. I had no money at the time for a lot of power tools. The saw was advertised as a boring machine (horizontal and vertical) and even as a router. That was almost 50 years ago. I had owned my saw for a couple of years and my work had progressed to some cabinet work (graduated from "just boxes"). I had the machine in vertical mode and locked and was routing a slot. Instead of cutting the wood was "grabbed" by the bit and in an instant my right index finger was routed. I kept the digit but lost some of the nail and learned a valuable lesson. Routing belongs to a 10,000 to 25,000 RPM machine not a 3750 RPM saw motor. Some lessons, unfortunately, have to be learned the hard way--at least for me. Love your shop and your projects and of course your videos. Thanks.

Nice. Thanks Frank. I just think that suction fence you made for them is splendid.👍🏼

I have had my 10 inch Dewalt radial arm saw since approximately 1969, I bought it from a neighbor friend. I used it and loved it for many years, but now I use a modern sliding bevel chopsaw. Still have my radial arm saw.

The faint "ow" followed by the halloween store severed hand flying across the table had me in tears...

This is my new favorite woodworking video. Those old DeWalt radial arm saws are awesome. Totally understand your love of them, especially for dados.

I use my radial saw to make dados in wide stock, then I rip it on the table saw to make two pieces that match exactly. It's great for bookcases.

Hi Frank. I bought my radial arm saw in 1964. It's a Craftsman and is still going strong. I had to change the bearings on the motor about 25 years ago and I changed the switch about 30 years ago. It needs another tune up which I plan to do this summer. The work that I've done with this tool is phenomenal. I agree that some of the attachments can be somewhat scary. So I limit it to items less frightening, for example a sanding disc or sanding drums. You mentioned ripping a piece of wood from the wrong direction. I've never done this, but my brother did. It threw the wood across the room and went right through the drywall about 20 feet away. You're right. It's a great tool, but care and attention are prerequisites.

My 12" DeWalt RAS was built in December 1947. Got it for free from a lumber yard that was going out of business. I've had it and an 8" for three decades, and they both run like new, and they are much quieter than my chop saws. Just like you, I only use them for various types of crosscuts, nothing else. A tool is only as safe as the guy using it, is careful and knowledgeable.

My very first and still favorite, although not only. (Craftsman circa 1960's) Thanks for taking the time to talk about a very useful tool that can be dangerous if mishandled. I love the warning about don't ever place a body part on the cut line. I have told my Grandkids that this saw will not cut you if you don't have your fingers and hands where the blade moves.Thanks again.

Frank, I wish I had seen a video like this in the early 80's when I worked at a local lumber yard. We had an 18" DeWalt without a return spring. One morning, I had ripped a 1X12 and then stacked the 2 pcs for a crosscut. I did not notice that the blad did not go all the way to the back of the track. When I pushed the power switch (which was mounted on the wall), the saw blade climbed over the boards and into my left arm!!!! Someone above was looking out for me as the blade got hung in the board and when the blade stopped it popped the breaker. I had to unwind my arm. I was very lucky that day. To this day, I still have full use of my arm. So my advice is to put a return spring on all radial arm saws.

I literally LOL'd at the chopped off hands. Grew up using them at home and in school shop. Like any tool they can be dangerous without proper training. No more dangerous than any other high velocity spinning blade

Good video, good info. One note: I think the reason the blade tries to stop during a cut is because of the direction of rotation of the blade. Because the downward force of the blade is on the near (cutting) side, the blade is trying to "clime" out of the stock. The radial arm prevents that so the blade is caught in between and gets stuck so it stops. This tends to, among other things, throw the breaker switch or fuse for the circuit supplying power to the saw. Your technique of "back and forth" movement of the blade helps mitigate that tendency to climb. Another technique that works is to pull the blade through the stock very slowly and steadily.

Lee Valley published a book some years ago called "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw". After reading that and adjusting my DeWalt, I got much better crosscuts.

Enjoy the thought you put into describing of your approach to the shop and building. thanks for being you.

Using a negative hook blade is a great tip! I will put one on my saw today. Thanks! This is a great video.

I paint a red patch on table 3" on each side of blade. I use a "stiff arm" technique to prevent self feeding. A sharp blade is really important.

I heart your radial arm saws Frank. :-D We both acquired a GE from auction around the same time, and mine needed some love as well. But now I love that 880 pound beast.

Thanks Frank, well worth watching as always. I like that the timing of your video uploads so often coincides with my Saturday or Sunday morning coffee. Your collection of working vintage woodworking equipment is inspiring and important as it preserves both the equipment and a window into a time where machinery was designed and built to last for generations, not months. Many thanks for sharing.

My dad has big Craftsman radial arm saw he bought about 45 or 50 years ago. He's used it for nearly everything over the years, ripping included. I've always been impressed how much can be done with it. When I worked in a wood shop we didn't have any because of time constraints of switching the setup of the saw for different types of cuts. But for a homeowner such as my father it was a great saw for the money. But now he's selling it to a young (20's) woodworker nearby. So I won't see it anymore, I'll miss it tho....

I used to think I had too many radial arm saws. Now I realize that I don't have enough.

you should make this a series about all the different types of equipments in your workshop, now that is a series i would love to watch :P

Very informative, Frank. Thank you for the great videos.

I have a DeWalt Model 500274 9" model that was my dad's, not sure of the vintage, but probably early 60s, possibly earlier. The top of the arm has a much gentler curve so it does not have the aesthetics of the older models. He had a molding head for it (I still have it) that is absolutely terrifying! I will never use it. I, like you, only use it for crosscutting. It is very handy and is fairly precise. Frank, thank you for the palm against the handle suggestion. It takes quite a while for the blade to stop when shut off, which is something else to be very aware of.

I remember when I was real young (back in the 50's) my Dad bought a DeWalt Radial saw. I think he might have kept it for less than a month. He made the mistake of just putting a piece of wood on the table, without holding it up against the fence, and the saw ripped the piece of wood out of his hand and jerked his hand into the blade and nicked him. It wasn't bad but it scared him enough that he got rid of it. I have a DeWalt chop (not the compound model) saw and I've always remembered that incident and always remember to make sure whatever I'm cutting is up against the fence and held very securely.

I really like the educational videos. Not sure this is for everyone, but for someone who is just getting started with woodworking this is gold. I really enjoy your vlog and look forward to future post

MR. HOWARTH I FEEL THE SAME ABOUT OLDER TOOLS THAT HAVE THAT TYPE OF LOOK OF THE PAST I COLLECT ALUMINUM BODY CIRCULAR SAWS AND THEY STILL WORK AND THEY ARE JUST BEAUTIFUL AND POWERFUL LOOKING ,YOUR WORK AS WELL AS YOUR SHOP IS AN INSPIRATION THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS.

I confess I did wonder why you had so many but then again, I think I decided a while back that it was because more saws = good :-D Thanks for sharing your musings, Frank.

Just when Saturday became boring, this video shows up in my sup box. Just perfect!

Thanks Frank. I adopted your multi-saw approach after I acquired a 10" blade Rage multipurpose saw (thank you for the idea). I was going to get rid of my 70's era Craftsman 10" blade RAS but decided to mount them side by side. I can get almost 12" of cross cut depth on the RAS and the SCMS feels unstable at that reach. The SCMS can chop down on a 4x4 while I'd have to raise and lower the entire arm of the RAS. I can set up the SCMS for angles and bevels faster, so these days I put a nice blade in the RAS for cross cuts and use the SCMS for everything else. perhaps a nicer 12" SCMS would render the RAS useless, but I got it for $30 and I've been using it for a decade. One of my best tool purchases.

Thanks. You' ve helped confirm the two main reasons I have for eventually buying a large RAS: 1) cross cutti ng rough sawn lumber and 2) cutting dados. #1 is the most important.

im right there with you i have 3 set up and parts from another one in boxes. i don’t have the nice old ones i have the middle age ones. 1511 and 970 type. they are so quiet compared to a chop saw and such a pleasure to use and they make me happy. i got all of mine for less then 75. i’m just getting a vfd to run the 3 phase one i have. I like the bigger 2 ph ones i have as well.

On the topic of safety, it is important to read and understand the instructions and warnings for any machinery, including the warnings on the machine itself. At 2:58 you talked about the dangers of some of the "crazier things you can do" with a radial arm saw, and then went on to describe how you attempted to rip a piece of wood, but was unsure of which direction to rip it in, and ultimately ended up ripping it from the wrong direction, putting yourself in a dangerous situation. And this is exactly why people need to take the time to read the instructions and warnings. It specifically tells you on the saw (3:55) in red capital letters "CAUTION - Do not rip or plough from this end". Someone has even put some additional red paint on that side to ensure that it can easily be determined which side to rip from. Tools are generally only dangerous when used improperly.

I never had a shop teacher, but came to a similar conclusion on how to draw the saw across the work. My technique comes from canoeing. I have the strong arm virtually locked, so the saw can't climb forward, it is bone on bone. And I use rotation of my shoulders and torso to complete the cut. You have to set your feet appropriately. The possibility one might cut an arm off with the radial arm, (maybe it would be better if it was called a "radial track saw"), is basically the same as exists with the bandsaw. There is a reason BSs are used to break down meat. Yet most people seem pretty comfortable with BSs, and yet they are the most likely saw to usher you into the emergency. Positive attitude and skillful use, rule. I am a big believer in the idea one only uses saws for their safe use. Table saws and routers are other do all tools, but in a world where a lot of us have picked up cheap tools from china and deindustrialization, I don't push tools, the '50s are a long way in the rear view mirror. I have my great uncle's radial track saw, and it was the only stationary power tool he owned. I don't have any idea how many I have... So horses for courses. I did once do a project with my dad where we used his RS to rip a bunch of 1" pine. We had a Ryobi saw, and we moved it outside. It is not super powerful, or scary. Some of the issues around tools have to do with their power. You can survive things done on lightweight tools that will swat you badly if attempted on huge powerful models. Anyway, it was fine, with two people. It was a little kludgy. And the dust was all over the place. Speaking of two people. You have to set boundaries. Nothing goes south faster than people reaching into the cut zone to "help". The feeder on an RS or a TS has to have a strategy for what happens in the case of kickback. Be out of the way, and your feed tools need to be such they won't hit you on the way by. The second guy is just there to receive the stock. He should not try to help the basic cutting, or bad things may some day happen.

I had an old Dewalt that I owned when I was returning to woodworking, it was given to me and that price was right at the time, and I had used them back in college, so my comfort level was okay. But I found that while it was great at crosscuts, it lacked in flexibility of tasks for me. Changing it back and forth between 90 degree crosscuts and angled miters just took too long, and I didn't have the flexibility of setting up multiple saws for repeat operations. So when I got enough money, I passed it on to a friend who wanted it, and bought a Bosch miter saw. I don't regret either decision.

Great information. I also have a Dewalt Radial Arm saw that i bought about 40 years ago, 3hp., 12". It was my only saw for a lot of those years. After buying my table saw i started using the RA for mostly cross cutting. I took the time to set it up so that it cuts square, therefore I don't need or own a sled for my table saw. It is so much easier to cross cut with the RA saw, IMO.

I gave this a thumbs up before even watching!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing Frank. I acquired an MBC model a couple of years ago for $50 and have a love/hate relationship. I agree with your comments and appreciate someone who knows what they are doing saying what I thought was just me not knowing what I'm doing, they are great for coarse cuts. I've tried a few times to make mine more repeatable, but just haven't had any luck. It was good hearing what your thoughts, I think I'll stick to the basics with mine and not explore the more advanced 'features'. I do use mine for ripping quite a bit because I don't have a table saw (need to free up some space). I've used it to cut half sheets of plywood and it does a pretty fair job if I don't feed things too fast. I had to go through the 'which way do I feed this' also and repeated your wood flinging incident. Fortunately, it's very difficult to stand beside the saw. My wife doesn't like it when I refer to it as the 'saw of death'. The one piece it is missing is the blade guard, , really need to make a cover for it .....

Thanks for this Frank. I have my father's DeWalt which I used growing up (most like your #3 I believe). I rebuilt it about 20 yrs ago and it doesn't see much use but I'll never get rid of it. As a kid I used it once with a DeWalt profile cutter - just a piece of steel twisted 90 degrees on each end with an ogee profile cut in it used in "ripping" configuration. A bit of a clencher, but it worked:)

4 years ago, I cut mi finger while doing some miter cuts... I was distracted... So I change my radial arm saw to a sliding miter saw and it works well. Greetings from Mexico Frank!!!

i have an old school craftsman r.a.s. and rarely use it mostly because it's in my garage LOL and secondly there's no blade guard for it so I'm a little Leary about using it but alot of good info !thanks for sharing👍 and alot of saws holy crap..

In an effort to find a way to ask you why you don't seem to have a power miter saw, I came across this video. I'd even forgotten I'd seen it before. But, all my questions are answered. Thank you.

Lovely video! Im not a wood worker myself but love learning new things. Thanks, Frank!

Some things about radial arm saws I've learned. Just based on my own observations, not to be taken as a fact: 1.) Modern cheap high quality blades are made for miter saws, and they must be compatible with miter saws, meaning all the new blades sold in big box stores, have anti-kickback teeth called "Shoulder teeth" in between each cutting tooth, so there is no need for a negative hook angle anymore. 2.) Negative hook angle is something someone invented a long time ago, as a solution for overly aggressive early blades without the shoulder guide teeth. Chainsaws have shoulder teeth called "rakers" in between each tooth, and if you file the rakers down, you cannot use the saw because it will kick so hard when you engage the cut. Buying a Diablo blade, means you don't need a negative hook angle, because they are one of the many blades that have the anti-kickback "cut blocking" raker teeth. 3.) If you are using a very expensive furniture grade saw blade, made in America, like a Forrest brand blade, it will not have any shoulder teeth. It's not clear why they remove the shoulder teeth from the expensive blades, but I suspect it's due to the possibility of the shoulder teeth causing accidentally tear out of the material. Beware that expensive blades, could potentially cause a runaway climb due to the blade having no cut limiting blunt raker teeth. 4.) I believe ripping is far safer than crosscutting on a radial arm saw. This is contrary to popular opinion. But the popular opinion is dead wrong. That's because people have gotten used to using a radial arm saw for crosscuts, and so they have never actually performed a single rip cut. But when you study the design, a radial arm saw setup for crosscuts, is the most dangerous tool ever invented. Pulling a blade towards you on a ball bearing carriage, with the motor aggressively trying to drive the blade towards your body, is perhaps the single worst idea that man has ever conceived. Yes, It's very fun, but inherently extremely dangerous, possibly fatal. 5.) There is no inbuilt mechanism of safety in crosscutting, unless you have a modern Craftsman or Rigid saw with a hinged plastic blade guard that covers the wood completely. 6.) In rip cuts, there are inbuilt safety measures which prevent catastrophic injury. A rip cut being difficult, does not mean that it's dangerous. Something being difficult does not make it inherently dangerous. Crosscutting is very easy, but also extremely dangerous. The opposite is true for rip crutting on a RAS. Rip cutting requires a little more forethought and planning, but the major safety concerns (being cut) are completely eliminated when the blade is set in a fixed position, during a rip cut. 7.) During a rip cut on a RAS, the carriage is no longer sliding around freely, the blade is locked into one position, it cannot move. Thus the blade cannot accelerate and move towards you on it's own, and even if there is an accident, the wood material is ejected AWAY from the blade, pushing your body and hand away from the blade in the event of a kickback. 8.) Rip cutting can cause injury from a straight line kickback. Standing out of the line of the material, in case of a kickback, would eliminate the major danger in a rip cut. But the possibility of having the carriage suddenly accelerate towards your hand, is completely eliminated during ripping. The constant fear of having your hand in "the path of the cut" is no longer a concern, because there is no way the blade can reach you. 9.) In rip cutting, the guard actually does something, as you adjust it down to cover the entire blade. In the case of crosscutting, the blade guard is often set so high, that it really only functions as a fancy dust shroud. 10.) Table saws are easier to use for ripping, but have catastrophic safety problems during a kickback. Radial arm saws are more cumbersome to use and a little more tedious to setup, but do not have the dangerous capability of a severe life threatening kickback that a table saw has. That's because the material cannot jump up onto the blade, and be ejected upwards towards your abdomen or neck, like a typical "frisbee kickback" on a table saw.

What a lucid discussion! Thanks. I have one of the low power ones set up next two my 12" chop saw. As you say, both have their strengths.

Another excellent video. Thanks for your content. Very helpful, especially the part on hook angle and safety.

I have an Italian made DeWalt 1251 (10"), bought it new in the 1980's with router and dado attachments.......still have it. It was my first stationery power tool and I did both cross and rip cuts on it for decades. If you rip in the correct direction and use the anti kick back pawls it's safe but does create a lot of dust. Now I just use it for cross cutting planks down to size. It's underpowered really so I also use the rocking cutting action to prevent jamming the blade in the wood or take less depth cuts. Still my pride and joy on the shop even though not used as much. The best book on RAS is from Mr. sawdust.....well worth reading it. Cheers

Just bought new looking old Delta. First Radial I bought. Thanks for the Tutorial.

In my tiny little hobby shop, I have two and find I use both. Great video!

good to hear a different perspective on using them other than they are dangerous and have no place in the shop.

Thanks for sharing. So thoughtful.

Frank, great insight into your radial arm saws. Perfect for a rainy Memorial Day here in PA. Thanks!

Just got one and looking forward to getting it up and running. Thanks for all the great videos Frank.

Back in the mid 80's i use one of these on my first job. Loved it...

Thanks for the video, I have only used a radial arm saw a few times, but I may get one and use it and see how it works for me. Your videos are always inspiring and very enjoyable. Thanks again

Thanks Frank! My neighbor just gave me a model 925E. I'll be setting it up soon but needed some reassurance.

Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and advice. I have found it very useful. David in the UK.

Oh good. now I'm on Craigslist. :)

Very informative. I have wondered about purchasing a radial arm saw, but I have a nice chop saw so I never saw the need. Now I don't need 6, but I will keep an eye out for one now that I know the benefits of owning one. Thank you.

Another great video Frank, your shop insights/philosophy videos are just as interesting as your project ones, keep them coming! As a beginner who is building my shop and also starting a family I wonder if you have done (or would consider doing) a video on your approach to shop safety/education/rules for your kiddos. I think it is great that they get to help out and have their own projects sometimes, and am interested in how you go about including them/encouraging their interest in a safe way.

Love it Frank- thanks for the detail expansion of the saw teeth

Another advantage of the radial arm saw is that it uses the non-dado side for references, opposite of a table saw, when cutting dados. This is useful if using boards that don't lay flat. Clamping them down on a RAS is easier and safer than pushing down on the workpiece on a table saw.

The compound miter saw is great because it can be thrown into a pickup and used where ever there is AC power. When in the shop try putting a stacked Dado in the miter saw. Thanks for the great information.

i think an often overlooked option for cross cutting is a track saw on a cross cut table, e.g. festool's MFT3, although i use a makita and home make cross cut table. having the blade enclosed in the plunge saw is a great safely feature, and the table allows for very wide cuts.

I had no idea that you had so many of these amazing saws. I would too if I had the room. I think they're an incredible bargain. Like you, I fell in love with the look and design of these saws. I honestly think they're a thing of beauty. I'm amazed at just how smooth and relatively quiet my saw is. I disagree with you about the precision of the cut when cross-cutting. With a table saw, you're at the mercy of the miter gauge. With the old DeWalt RASs, you're able to fine tune the angle using the set screws at the back of the arm to make the saw cut perfectly. I took a little time tuning mine and it cuts an absolutely perfect 90. You're also able to make perfect cuts on a long piece, which would be difficult on a table saw. I was amazed at just how easy it is to adjust these saws to get them to make perfect cuts. The engineering on them is incredible. It's so easy to make precise cuts on this, I make my mark, put the side of my blade along my mark, move it back, and then turn it on and watch the magic happen. Please keep making videos on your saws. I can't get enough of them. I really admire and appreciate how much you value and love your saws. I'm so glad that you took the time to discuss selecting the proper blade. So many people do not do that and they have a bad experience as a result, which makes them poisoned on radial arm saws as a whole. You demonstrating these wonderful machines the way you do will hopefully teach your followers an appreciation of these wonderful machines. We really need to keep these off the scrap heap. They're just too valuable.

Lol at the “ouwe” then hand flies in 😂 Adding the year they were made would be interesting to me.

Radial arms are great to sub size large and wide stock. Rough sizing.if i had more shop space id have a large radial saw.great history on this type of saw

I got a 1970's craftsman 10" RAS at a garage sale recently for $125, with a nice Forrest blade on it too haha...I quickly realized it isn't a substitute for my miter saw, which i still use a lot, but it is still very versatile...for instance doing half lap joints...the ras is absolutely perfect for doing those...and 16" of capacity is hard to argue with vs my small chop saw....

I really like how you teleport around the shop :)

Excellent Video for use and safety! I have a Dewalt Black and Decker radial arm saw and I have a smaller 8 inch blade mounted. I orange taped up an area 8 inches each side of the blade on the base to mark keep your hands out of this area. Also, any small piece of wood cutting I use a clamp to hold in position prior and during cut. Make sure saw is off and blade stopped before grabbing any piece of wood near blade. My friend lost 2 fingers on a table saw after turning the saw off and grabbing the loose piece of wood for the blade was still spinning. I only use the saw for cross cutting and you are right always be ready for any kick back. Be safe wood working!

New vid from Frank? This is gonna be a good day

There should be a metal tag on the left side of the vertical column that has the model number and serial number stamped in it. I just picked up a 10" Dewalt GWI model for $100. Serial number is 275610. So it was made in 1958. Mine is 1.5 hp. It also has a switch for 120 / 240 volts.

Not to mention completely serviceable!

I just got one the other day for 10$ and now I need to build a base and a few other things for it to be able to use it. Love your shop by the way.

I concur with what Frank has said. Great video! I also fed a piece in the wrong direction using a molding set. I have a better understanding of this piece of machine. Versatile when used properly. Still use it.

Thanks for explaining the jerky movement when cutting 👍

I build most of my furniture using this tool. And I still have it and use it.

I like when you "pop" in. I am easily amused.

I use a DW1251 raw which is newer than those and I also find its the first to cross cut with to rough size. I did have a cross cut chop saw which was stolen so when I replaced it I went with a radial arm saw so it not so easy to steal. As for ripping on the saw I have done it a few times but my favourite past time. Keep up the great videos I know this is an older one but still worth watching.

Yet another brilliant video. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you so much for another wonderful video! I really love the older saws and tools. They are really heavy and usually do a wonderful job at any task. I particularly like the 5HP DeWalt, I'd love to get my hands on one. Like you mentioned some people ask ridiculous prices for these older DeWalt saws. I think you should have at least 4 radial arm saws on every wall of your shop!

I guess I always thought the jerky motion was you trying to prevent the blade from grabbing. Thanks for this, I learned a lot.

with my 1958 MBF (desided to buy it after watching you) i start into the cut then hold it back, i dont have to pull that at all into a cut i hold it back at an even speed and it cuts clean.... also ..... the saw has markiings on the blade guard to show which way to move stock for rip cuts i have also aquired the pully to go in place of the blade so i can rotate the top 180 degrees and run my lathe

I really liked this video. I'd love to see more like this in the future, just on your reasons for having different pieces of equipment and how you use them. I know there's other channels that do this sort of thing, but it's cool to see your perspective.

I have a late '50s era SawSmith RAS with a Belt Sander attachment that I inherited. Been looking for the floor stand offered back in the day to mount the sander for years but so far w/o luck ...

Great discussion. Very informative and insightful!

I used to work in a cabinet shop where we had a saw we called "The Beast". It was only used to cut half laps in face frame components, with a full one and a half inch dado set. The thing scared the hell out of me. I eventually graduated to shops that had dedicated mortising and tenoning machines. And making face frame cabinets began dying off in favor of the European method.

I have two - a 1959 DeWalt and a 1958 Rockwell/Delta double overam turret - both are very good machines, and I use them quite often. I can do most every sawcut that is described in the manuals. It is quite dangerous to use a table saw blade on a radial saw, but you can use a sliding miter saw blade. >>>The most dangerous condition is when the blade is heeled, i.e. when the plane of the blade is not in the same plane as the cut path. This will cause the teeth on one side of the leading edge to climb the stock, and the teeth of the other side on the trailing edge to lift the stock.