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Musk in perfume - A guide for perfumers

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Sam Macer

Sam Macer

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 94
@harryrs5273
@harryrs5273 Жыл бұрын
Musk is like garlic in a food. You can't like garlic on its own. But you can tell the difference of food with and without garlic. Garlic gives depth, layers, and blends together different flavors in your food.
@sammacer
@sammacer Жыл бұрын
Interesting idea - although garlic is often perceived as unpleasant alone unlike musks
@toddpyrkos278
@toddpyrkos278 Жыл бұрын
Well said
@mrcat1043
@mrcat1043 Жыл бұрын
But garlic and musk are both yummy alone
@waqarghulam3548
@waqarghulam3548 Ай бұрын
Yes if you exclude natural musk. Natural musk is a complete perfume in itself like Oud.
@rickscars7395
@rickscars7395 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Sam. Interesting thing with helvetolide that I’ve noticed is that it is perceived from top note to base note in a formula. One of the few musks that can do that. Might want to add it to your arsenal of aroma chemicals😉
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Similar to Applelide then (I forgot to mention)!
@bassmjm
@bassmjm 5 ай бұрын
Really nice walkthrough! Would love to know more about the setup of the workstation behind you and tips/tricks (like those...cardholders? for pipettes)!
@zalzalahbuttsaab
@zalzalahbuttsaab 2 жыл бұрын
I loved this video. Your videos just keep getting better and better.
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@787ashok
@787ashok 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Sam as usual your videos carry such simple but vital information Ty once again for the knowledge imparted
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@ramanshah7627
@ramanshah7627 10 ай бұрын
I am thrilled for this chemically accurate perfumery instruction :D
@sammacer
@sammacer 10 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoy it!
@JaneTheJubilant
@JaneTheJubilant 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you Sam, for another exquisite and detailed job 😊
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you 🙏
@vincentpattavina2120
@vincentpattavina2120 2 жыл бұрын
Another informative presentation. Nice Hx of Musks. This kind of background information makes for a well-rounded perfumer. You could make your dilutions in DPG so as to avoid waiting for the EtOH to evaporate. Also, I hope that the substance glowing in the jar next to you is not Kryptonite
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Yes indeed DPG is an option but I’m happy to wait for the alcohol to evaporate. That way I’m not bound to amounts of DPG which I may not want in my final fragrance. And kryptonite it may or may not be… 😉
@marygilliland6024
@marygilliland6024 6 ай бұрын
Fascinating! I never knew the richness of this subject. I'm most definitely hooked. Love your channel
@sammacer
@sammacer 5 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoy it!
@camaronCamarona
@camaronCamarona Жыл бұрын
Of course, Sam. I want to see more and more.👏👏👏
@Shiro642
@Shiro642 Жыл бұрын
thank you discussing the chemistry. Really wanted to see the aromatic compounds (no pun intended)
@sammacer
@sammacer Жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@sinivasannarayanasamy4059
@sinivasannarayanasamy4059 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the breakdown about musk modules very informative Sam
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@fhoeflich
@fhoeflich Ай бұрын
I rewatched this and found that I had forgotten many good observations made in it. Perusing the section on musks in the book Scent and Chemistry is a truly brilliant idea for those who are interested in this topic, and there are a couple of dangling accord ideas Sam noted in here that are worth chasing whether he ever went back and looked into them or not. Really good video! 🐂🧪
@superaak
@superaak 2 жыл бұрын
wonderful it refreshed my knowledge. Lucky I have smelled original Musk. Thanks
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you
@luxeford547
@luxeford547 Жыл бұрын
I honestly have a hard time telling the musks apart. I usually just grab the ones that are easiest for me to detect - ethylene brassylate, galaxolide and velvione. But I have to admit I might be partial to velvione because of the name. It just sounds nice.
@sammacer
@sammacer Жыл бұрын
Haha well that’s very easy to do - it really takes a lot of time to get to know the musks, I’m still learning myself
@jeanyvestrillat
@jeanyvestrillat 2 жыл бұрын
Excellent, could you also talk about Linalool and how to use it? thank you very much !!
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Often you use it accidentally since it’s found in many naturals. Otherwise you would probably add it to provide a soft natural element to accords.
@josesaraiva9566
@josesaraiva9566 2 жыл бұрын
Hello Sam Good afternoon Nitromusks have nothing to do with all other types of musks, Musk Xylol and Musk Ketone, for me they smell like soft florals, while Musk Ambrette has a stronger smell that leaves an almost fishy smell on the skin, that's the that I smell. I know about 20 types of Musks from Galaxolide, Ethylene Brassilate, Helvetolide, Velvione, Shangralide, Tonquitone, Habanolide, Muscone, Iso Muscone, Exaltone, Etaltenone, Traseolide, Aldron, Animalis, Globalone, Globalide, Apellelide, etc., etc. none of these products have anything to do with Nitro Musks. That's why it's impossible that Perfumes like Chanel 5, Aramis and others manage to keep the same smell since Musk Xilol and Musk Ambrete were banned and if we add to that the natural Oakmoss that has nothing to do with the substitutes, these perfumes they are clumsy copies of the originals, which I remember well from the smell and are very different from current products, and much less durable in smell. IFRA killed the great perfumes, without preventing the continued existence of products that are perhaps more dangerous than the "terrible" nitromusks. Best regards.
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Yep, the structure of nitro musks is very different from the rest, I can imagine they smell completely different too. I’m a big fan of prioritising safety in the industry but I know many people share your view!
@erich1394
@erich1394 7 ай бұрын
Hey - where can I get some nitro musk? I'm representing a niche / fetish community that's trying to recreate a product fragrance that we're all obsessed with. How close is musk ketone to xylene musk?
@josesaraiva9566
@josesaraiva9566 7 ай бұрын
@@erich1394 Hello The difference between Musk Xylene and Musk Ketone is minimal, the difference is greater between these two nitromusks and Musk Ambrette, where there is a big difference. I can't compare the smell of nitromusks with other types of musks, at least that I own. I think that Musk Ketone and Musk Xýlene are more for the effect than the smell, I can hardly smell them on the scent strip.
@Ci-vaninho
@Ci-vaninho 2 жыл бұрын
Great Video. Can you tell how do you clean your glas jars and your glas containers? I have problems with it although I put them in the dishwasher.
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
The dishwasher should work and you can try hot soapy water. Otherwise you can wash with alcohol or acetone but this poses a health and safety risk so be careful
@Ci-vaninho
@Ci-vaninho 2 жыл бұрын
@@sammacer thank you :))
@emilianodiazgonzalez9928
@emilianodiazgonzalez9928 2 жыл бұрын
Great video Sam!!
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@user-db6jh8is8r
@user-db6jh8is8r 3 ай бұрын
Great video!
@marhoc6040
@marhoc6040 2 жыл бұрын
Hey Sam, highly useful as always. Thank You. I wonder what concentration of musks is in heavy musk-centric fragrances? Maybe you've already smelled Silver musk (Nasomatto)? In this case, I wonder which musks are used?
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
I haven’t smelled that one! I wouldn’t be surprised to see them used at over 50% of the concentrate in musk heavy compositions
@fhoeflich
@fhoeflich Ай бұрын
35+% of the total perfume in Chanel No. 5, supposedly. And that would have contained nitro musks still.
@michaelcorbridge1607
@michaelcorbridge1607 Жыл бұрын
I can't smell galaxolide, but I can smell applelide, ethylene brassylate. Am I agnostic?
@sammacer
@sammacer Жыл бұрын
A lot of people are anosmic to certain musks so it’s completely normal!
@fhoeflich
@fhoeflich Ай бұрын
Nothing wrong with you. +1 for "agnostic." 😄
@RobertLaTuso
@RobertLaTuso 5 ай бұрын
Does Deer Musk improve projection or “diffusive” properties of Attar oils it is layered with? I have a 10% Nepalese Deer Musk macerated in Sandalwood and I am curious how this would influence My attars or fragrances. Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated
@murtadhaadnan4916
@murtadhaadnan4916 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Sam for the amazing guide I've watched nearly all you videos I want to make a perfume with smoky middle notes .. what ingredients should i use ?
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
I think the most obvious thing to try would be rectified cade oil, although guaiacol might work too
@fhoeflich
@fhoeflich Ай бұрын
Plus guaiacwood. Plus birch tar. Do Jean Carles to balance these in a Smoke Accord (that you can continue to use elsewhere), instead of just ending up with a smoking mess.
@syedaamirhussain6111
@syedaamirhussain6111 2 ай бұрын
🎉 well expression excellent verbal. Thanks for sharing Boss 🎉🎉🎉🎉
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 ай бұрын
Thanks dude
@syedaamirhussain6111
@syedaamirhussain6111 2 ай бұрын
@@sammacer dear respected keep it up 👍 people who want to make others as winner are the real people of the Lord 💖 stay blessed Aameen
@siegmac3267
@siegmac3267 Жыл бұрын
Hey Sam, I havent seen a lot of talk about Tonalide while Galaxolide is widely talked. Both are Polycyclic musk although Tonalide has stronger scent, why isnt it widely used and talked about?
@sammacer
@sammacer Жыл бұрын
There are many musks out there - only a few are famous. Perfumers use them, they just aren’t in the popular culture limelight
@siegmac3267
@siegmac3267 Жыл бұрын
Can you use tonalide if you dont have galaxolide? By describing all musk as a canvass, did you mean that I can use or add it to all perfume blends that I have?
@sammacer
@sammacer Жыл бұрын
You can try replacing it but replacements will never smell exactly the same. And yes, musks will work in almost any perfume!
@siegmac3267
@siegmac3267 Жыл бұрын
@@sammacer thanks Sam! You inspire me a lot and I understand you very well!
@dbbsharkey
@dbbsharkey 8 ай бұрын
Hi Sam, Is this a daft question?.. can anyone buy a Musk Ketone Substitute and add a couple of drops to an existing everyday perfume? To add a clean edge to the perfume?
@sammacer
@sammacer 8 ай бұрын
You could try that if you want to
@Bougieboulevard
@Bougieboulevard 2 жыл бұрын
Hello Sam, thank you for another informative and quite enjoyable video. I have two questions for you. 1. Should I dilute Top Notes too or because of their weak performance and higher volatility compared to Mid and Bottom Notes they shouldn’t be diluted? 2. I am having a trouble with dissolving Musk Ketone. I am trying to get a 10% solution but it doesn’t dissolve. I’ve already tried Alcohol, DPG, IPM.
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Yes, that is a good reason to dilute the top notes and ensure your perfume isn’t too top heavy. As for musk ketone, I wouldn’t know since I don’t have it unfortunately, maybe you could ask on basenotes
@TheBuduig
@TheBuduig 2 жыл бұрын
Musk ketone dissolves in benzyl benzoate or hedione
@Bougieboulevard
@Bougieboulevard 2 жыл бұрын
@@TheBuduig hedion itself has an powerful smell, not sure about benzyl benzoate I only own Methyl Benzoate. There is nothing odorless that Musk Ketone dissolves in?
@TheBuduig
@TheBuduig 2 жыл бұрын
@@Bougieboulevard I know, but also BB has its own smell. Other possibility is to use it directly in your blends (without prediluting it before). I am not aware of any odourless AC that could dissolve Musk ketone.
@josesaraiva9566
@josesaraiva9566 2 жыл бұрын
Use diethyl phthalate, dilute to 10%
@jesseman123
@jesseman123 Жыл бұрын
You seem to know a lot about scents. So you may know the answer to my question. I have noticed a dry bitter scents in many fragrances. The last 2 that I've noticed it in have been Aqua djio profundo and Escentric Molecules 02. Do you know what this scent is?
@curlyhairdudeify
@curlyhairdudeify 9 ай бұрын
Musk
@mishtertech8059
@mishtertech8059 Жыл бұрын
thanks
@kurdvevoofficial
@kurdvevoofficial 2 жыл бұрын
If we choose one musk for all kinds of design perfumes whats ur choice
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Not quite sure I understand
@kurdvevoofficial
@kurdvevoofficial 2 жыл бұрын
I mean which one of musk is best for all times to use in perfumes design
@texasfan8892
@texasfan8892 Жыл бұрын
I would say galaxolide is a pretty universal musk that can used in all types of perfumes.
@Beginners07
@Beginners07 2 жыл бұрын
Sam I couldn't not find any by which I can learn how to make hedion molecule . Can you make vedios on there synthesis ? Or please please suggest me any site where I can study the synthesis of hedion .
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
I’m sorry but I don’t know the best synthesis. I would recommend buying some already made. If you want to make your own, you should probably learn organic chemistry and how to read scientific papers first because that’s where you will find different synthetic approaches
@Beginners07
@Beginners07 2 жыл бұрын
@@sammacer thanks so much for guiding and always there for us 💜
@monsimonsi4626
@monsimonsi4626 2 жыл бұрын
Hola Sam, soy un seguidor tuyo de España. Te agradecería que pusieras la opcion de subtitulos. Vaya por delante tu inestimable labor didáctica. Saludos
@sammacer
@sammacer 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! You can use the auto translate option to translate the subtitles to Spanish :)
@OwenParry-gv9ip
@OwenParry-gv9ip 7 ай бұрын
I got white musk and it smells quite strong. Is that bad?
@uzzi3760
@uzzi3760 4 ай бұрын
No
@MattaparthiShivaBhargav
@MattaparthiShivaBhargav 9 ай бұрын
Do you have any course in udemy or other platforms
@sammacer
@sammacer 8 ай бұрын
No but I will make one in the future
@MattaparthiShivaBhargav
@MattaparthiShivaBhargav 8 ай бұрын
@@sammacer please do, it's gonna be great one, cuz I'm unable to put all this channel data in one track... A course would be great, please do a very detailed and long course.. Thank you.
@miorfaizulsabki6667
@miorfaizulsabki6667 Жыл бұрын
when hindus use cow dung to purifie their houses did you ever wonder what moecules involves that makes them so obsessed with cow dung?
@curlyhairdudeify
@curlyhairdudeify 9 ай бұрын
Cow sh*t smells like cow sh*t.
@pbcamitbackup
@pbcamitbackup Ай бұрын
It has a molecule called "Porko E Super" , you can try yourself..
@pbcamitbackup
@pbcamitbackup Ай бұрын
And if you don't like this one, you can try "Incestolide" , it is highly used in Muslim countries for its high projection and fixative qualities
@TheCybird
@TheCybird 6 ай бұрын
macrocytic musks..... WTF are you talking bout? PLEASE SPAIR US NON CHEMISTS WITH THIS NONSCENSE.... I LIKE THE HISTORY OF SCENT, BUT THIS RING THEORY OF CHEMISTRY IS TOTAL BLA BLA. I DO LIKE MOST OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND YOUR SIMPLE APPROACH. THANK YOU
@science_bear
@science_bear 5 ай бұрын
It's not nonsense it's just the structure of the compound. Since you're not into chemistry let me put it like this: the structure of any fragrance compound matters, it affects cost, scent profile and rate of diffusion.
@fhoeflich
@fhoeflich Ай бұрын
Next time you might consider simply not watching this video. Watch one of the ones about citruses or something. Just a suggestion to make you happier in the future.
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