So right on

Well said.

With a good splash of Mr. Rogers. 👍

That is the highest honor possible. Well said

Nailed it.

I second that! Him, John at black bear forge, Roy and Jessica with christ centered, Brent Bailey, Mark aspery and more are great teachers!

Good for you sir. Makes me wanna do the same thing. Thank you

I also gained a lot of confidence taking on a building project by myself (and I'm a computer guy by trade). Thank you Scott for sharing all your knowledge!

OSHA regulations only apply to employers and that's only because they churn workers through their meat grinder to bleed money out of them.

This is amazing! God bless you and our teacher.

Agreed! Free for us, but Scott and Nate are getting something for the work that goes into this amazing channel 😁 Interesting to know that google actually takes a loss on KZfaq consistently in order to pay their content creators. Really is an amazing thing when you think about it

You're cracking me up!😂😂😂😂

Use your good hand to pinch your nostrils together and then blow as hard as you can into your closed mouth. The pressure might pop out a fingertip or two. I use this technique with rubber gloves.

@@paulkolodner2445 THAT'S HILARIOUS!

Try taping your mouth shut to sleep better

Sorry for your loss. I was helping a scout with his pinewood derby car. When he was using the saw I asked which was his least favorite finger. Put that one in front of the blade. At something like 7 years old I watched as he held up his hand and tried to decide which one with a puzzled look on his face. He picked one placed it down and I stopped him right there. Nearly 20 years later our paths don’t cross as often but we laugh about that. So many lessons learned from that experience. Think safety every time,everywhere. Think it through, know what you are about to throw away, not lose, when you are pressured into something stupid. Think for yourself. Do what’s right. Be prepared to throw something away when you blindly listen to what others say. Accidents will happen but not doing the right thing, when you know better, is no accident. Once things are gone they may never come back. They are all favorites whether fingers, cars, kids, tools, days…

Miseducation? I don't know, but I made a welding helmet hook at Home Depot for $20 using a magnet, a storage hook and a 1/4-20x3/8 bolt and a ny-lok nut. Keeps the helmet scratch -free and it has a home

Thanks for that suggestion. I’m probably going to use it. I’ve started putting 6 inch IEC C14 pigtails on my tools. The cord that goes from the outlet to the pigtail could use the GCM connector.

I am 79 years old, but love to word in the garage. Been looking at anvils and can not justify buying one, they are really expensive for me.

He could make each dimension thickness a side and pin and have 4 versions (each pin, each bar side/end). Then only need one set.

@@xoxo2008oxox That might work. Though I think you might end up in a Swiss army knife situation (can do multiple things, but not as well as separate tools.) Having the spacers as completely separate sets has one major advantage, ease/speed of use. If you have multiple pin thicknesses on a single spacer, you'll have to carefully look at each one of them before placing it. You'll need to figure out which pin on a given spacer is the right one to use. At that point, you're diminishing the greatest value of such spacers, speed. When building a deck, there's nothing requiring you to actually physical spacers. You can just lay one board down, attach it, measure the next one very carefully, attach it, repeat. The whole point of spacers like this is to speed up your work. You don't need to carefully measure out a 1/4" gap between boards, you just grab your spacer, pop it in, and go. And with a set of spacers, you can use parallel sequencing. You lay out a half dozen boards in quick succession, you drop spacers in, and then you fasten a whole batch down at once. It saves you time swapping out tools and allows efficient motion. The nice thing about having a dedicated spacer set for each size is that you simply grab a set, drop it in a tool belt, and you don't have to think about it. When laying out boards, you just grab your spacers and pop them in without having to spend time thinking about measurement or which pin size on a given spacer to use. I think what you're proposing would certainly be more efficient in terms of total number of tools you have to make and haul around, but you would lose a lot of the benefit that such spacers provide in the first place.

Color the pins according to their size. You will have to turn them regardless of number of pins .

Screw them tight and run them long.

You know how you "can't sharpen a file"? Dull files turn into "good enough" chisels, since the kind of metal used is very similar (most files are just heat treated to a harder and more brittle state than chisels are) Additionally, since you mentioned that your grandfather was a joiner during the great depression, I think part of why this started was also to save money by recycling old and dull files into chisels that can potentially keep working well past the point you'd send a dull file back to be melted down and turned into something new. Plus if the supply of dull files is good enough you don't have to worry about "ruining" a "Real" chisel to maybe create a custom tool for a joint type you don't make very often (especially if you need to make one of those joints now, and need it done right). All of that to say, that your grandfather was a very smart man, and that idea to turn files into chisels (or file and chisel in one tool) is very impressive.

Good rule of thumb is to have at least 2 handles on standby incase you break any. That way you only need to spend 5 mins fitting it.

Indeed, we might use a lot more automation these days, but technically pressing a car fender out of sheet steel using a set of dies or forging a crankshaft out of a piece of billet alloy steel is still just blacksmithing like it always was. And if you don't think that's blacksmithing, I have a question for you that might make you see things my way, or at least understand why I see them as I do. Think back to when humanity didn't have those innovative machines that we now take for granted, that can produce a car fender in a single stroke of a 50 ton press, or forge a crankshaft in minutes, and ask yourself, before we had those machines, which trade would give you the best odds of success if you asked them to try and make that modern car fender, or that modern forged crankshaft? Personally, my money's on the blacksmith. All machinists need to at least learn how blacksmithing works even if they never work a piece of metal into the desired shape with a hammer, otherwise they lack the foundational knowledge to ply their craft to their best ability. Same with people making boxes or other shapes out of sheet steel, but even more so in that case because before we had these presses and dies that could bang out sheet steel parts at incredible rates, we had people with hammers and anvils, hand-working sheets of metal into the desired shape, or even just upsetting an ingot of metal into a nice flat sheet to be later worked into whatever shape. Point I'm trying to make is that if you look at the way things were developed, all metalworking comes from the discovery of blacksmithing.

A game changer. That was my rafter tail saw for years until cordless technology got good.

I have a suggestion for what kind of line to use when it comes time to replace the line on one of those Gammon reels. Braided fishing line. It's crazy strong, highly resistant to abrasion (more so than traditional nylon line because the braided stuff isn't nylon), and chances are if you put it on the Gammon reel you won't have need to replace that line again unless it gets physically cut by something (it's actually kinda hard to cut, slips right out of non-serrated scissors). You do need to use a different knot to tie it to the plumb bob (and the reel) due to the peculiarities of braided fishing line, but overall it's better than what you get on the reel when you buy the reel. It also takes up less space on the reel, because it's stronger you can use a much thinner line for the same tensile strength. For instance, when I'm looking at the stuff in the store, I can fit as much 20 pound rated braid on my fishing reel as I can fit 6 pound rated nylon monofilament. The stuff's much more flexible than nylon monofilament too. Honestly, I stopped using braided fishing line because I think it's TOO good at what it needs to do. With braid, it feels like there's no challenge left to fishing aside from choosing the right bait, because the "fight" that happens when you get a fish on the hook is extremely one-sided. With braid, you can just keep winding the fish in with all your strength and you don't have to worry a bit about the fish breaking the line or wearing the line out by rubbing it on rocks or branches or whatever. In other words, it removes the line as a failure point in the connection between the fish hook and your hand on the crank of the reel, and if I don't have to let the fish run at least a little bit I don't feel like it was a fair fight.

Hindsight is an amazing gift. However, his tool works for the task, and he said he hardly uses the other sizes, no real loss.

I second this!

2 ears 2 eyes and one waist 🙃

Can you explain what the “small stainless circle” is for?

@@timsinnott4462 gives you 1. a place to hang the tool and 2. better purchase when tightening the jaws i have welded a washer or eye bolt to every pair of vice grips i own. on the bigger ones i'll use that to get a wrench on it and really tighten those down if i'm in a bind

What does that do for you?

Personally I think EC should try to draft up some blueprints for that anvil hold-down device, it's very elegant and a far sight better than the kind you just hammer down into a hole in the anvil!