😘

Thanks for watching! The Intrepid would be the easiest and affordable way to jump into 8x10. If you’re used to 4x5 you’ll do well. I find it’s actually easier since the sheet is bigger. Also focusing on an 8x10 ground glass is pretty great. The blank stare is pretty standard every time I’m in the bag 🤣

I'm so happy you're trying large format! Thanks for watching!

You should definitely give 8x10 a try one day!

@@BetweenTheBellows Yeah, money is an issue (not the camera, an Intrepid 8x10 is quite affordable, but all the rest), also weight (I do have shoulder problems). Who knows, I might find the one or other solution … ;-)

I'm glad you're enjoying the series and I'm so excited for you try 8x10! Once you get used where the movements are on your camera you'll be flying in no time. It's really fun.

Thanks for watching, it’s such a cool experience to try, I high recommend it 👊🏼

Thanks Jason, you too brother.

Thank you for watching! Glad you're enjoying it!

Great point! However I don’t have a lot of room in the fridge so I only have a few boxes at a time. But if I end up with more I’ll add the date. I’ll consider doing a deeper dive into the developing after a few more stories of people. Thanks for watching!

Thank you Ali! I'm still figuring the wagon situation out!

Thank you for watching!

The window was basically the key light and the small soft box was to bring up Kam’s level a bit more compared to the ambient from the window.

Thank you for watching! Depending on the DPI (800-1600) the files can be from 250mb up to 1gb 😳

I actually just ordered all the supplies for fluid scanning! Super super excited to get the most out of my negs. If I had the space I would tray dev, but the expert drum is the next best thing I think.

@@BetweenTheBellows ohh yea drum scanning is top dog. Expensive. lol.

@@BetweenTheBellows although if you ever try to do darkroom prints and scan that. It has unique look and it has great aesthetic. If you are low contrast and do the tweak after you scan the darkroom print. You might like the look.

Thank you Sarah! I rarely shoot in a studio and I also use continuous light so I'm typically dragging the shutter lol. I think this was at f6.8 and 1/10th shutter speed for HP5. The motor base is great! It did fall off a couple of times at the beginning but I figured out the balance! Thanks for your help.

Thanks for watching Pablo! C-41 can be done with this, I will do a pre-wash for a few minutes with 102 degree (sorry this is all Fahrenheit!) water to get the negative up and tank up to temperature, while heating the developer a bit higher to 104 degrees, so when I do pour in chemistry it will average out over the 3.5 minutes. I've gotten good results but I admit I've only done color two times on this setup. I also don't want to buy a bigger lift! I'm using a digital infrared thermometer to read my temps. I'm scanning for web at 1200dpi right now which is already massive but can go higher if needed.

But if one uses a Jobo expert drum and a consistent rolling agitation - you mean due to temperature stability? That's why a whole jobo system is better?@@FireplaceHarmony

It’s a plastic funnel used for car oil changes, any automotive store will have them!

Oh oops.... if you shoot color too of course with 8x10. Haven't watched your other videos yet so I don't know if you do, :p but onto watching them now.

I use Rollei C41 chemistry or Cinestill for color, but I admit I use it less for 8x10. From 35mm up to 4x5 I’m pretty comfortable doing color.

I switched to pouring during rotation because it was taking too long to do it while it was standing. I may have gotten uneven dev the first time too. Bought a mechanic's funnel and it did the trick. No sketchy moments, but it will spill if you pour too quickly!

I never use the rear tilt, or any of the rear movements really. The Misura looks like a great camera. The front movements are manual, so they're not geared like on the F-Metric, but it does save a good amount of weight I hear.

I set it to continuous because on this roller base it wont actually do a full rotation on the Expert Drum so it could cause uneven dev. It looks like it's spinning at 30rpm which is consistent with my smaller Jobo CPE2 when I disengage the reverse switch. I'm using a 300mm in this video, which is like a 150mm on 4x5. Thanks for watching!

I use the same roller base and jobo tank ... and I'll go 2 minutes then stop and flip the drum the other way.. do three minutes - stop and flip back and the final two... of course fix and wash I don't bother flipping.... @@BetweenTheBellows

For a shot like this, I typically use a little bit of swing to keep both eyes sharp. But often times in a shot it will be someone's hands or elbow or shoe that's closer to the camera and I'll use some tilt to hold that along with the eyes. So in a full body portrait a lot of LF photos out there are sharp on the face and their feet will be soft, since no tilt was used. You'll notice in the 2nd shot of Kam, focus starts to go soft at both of her wrists. I could have used some movements, along with a deeper f-stop, to hold more of that. Hope that helps!

@@BetweenTheBellows thanks! Really short DOF!

Hi! Well speaking for myself, the bellows allows me to focus super close to things so any lens could technically be a macro lens if you have enough length on the bellows. Also having bellows lets you apply movements like rise, swing, and tilt. So all of that to say there’s more control over what you can do with the image when captured. Hope that helps.

@@BetweenTheBellows I mean I knew that already but like many SLR cameras do not have bellows and they work just fine so I’m like “if I don’t care about that is the cone actually much worse, or is it just not what other people would’ve chose?” I don’t personally want to do all of the bellows tricks I mostly just want to shoot large format film, and usually the camera that does that is a graflok

@@conanruisi hey Conan, if you’re talking about the 4x5 cameras with fixed rigid/plastic cones in place of bellows then you would lose all the benefits of view camera movements and also limit how much you could focus. If you’re planning to use it more as a wide angle point-and-shoot at deep f-stops it could be a great walk around camera. It’s still a lot of steps and effort per sheet, with a big lack in control over the image. Maybe that’s why it’s not seen very often or worth it for some people and they stick to medium format. Just guessing here. If you don’t need to manipulate the focus plane to keep multiple things sharp on the film, and stick to shooting wide scenes, it could be a great way to shoot large format.

@@BetweenTheBellows yeah bro mostly erotic close ups and macros. Maybe some stuff with cool cars, I definitely understand the benefit of having it, but for me it just seems like it wouldn’t be all that important, and most of the cone cameras I’m looking at still maintain some amount of minor shift function, they just don’t extend. I definitely understand shift and I could see myself using it, but maybe not all that often.