Yes I will. I got flooded with print Jobs so not manged so much lately 😁 I have a sovol sv05 now as well to manage all print work 😁 Heavy duty on cr5 and pla and petg on the other.

If you close the Chamber and preheat bed and hotend half an hour before starting the print so is the Chambers getting pretty warm quickly. If I remember it right abs is bed temp around 80 ? I usually only use 70 for petg and Chambers temp is around 35 with my custom spacers at top. So completely closed you should reach 40 or even higher pretty easy.

I use a digital outdoor one with a cable to see temp at bottom and top of chamber. Pretty low priced at the hardware store. Have the display at bottom and put cable at top inside chamber.

I am having problems with my first layer. I level the bed perfectly, but when it prints the side closest to the back wall (where the build plate is supported) is too close to where it can't extrude, and the side opposite (near door) is way too far away so there's no squish. The build plate has a lot of flex if I slightly press down on it. Are you having these issues?

@@smokin411 sorry for the late answer but I dont get notifications it looks like. I tension the bed springs so it can flex but still being stiff. Then I do 4 corner check with the measuring tool you get with machine. After that I do a auto mesh. The z enddtop is disabled on my machine from factory and it only do z check thru bltouch. Now do the z offset also as a last thing . If z endstop would be connected mine would hit it with the tension i use. I always take off glas plate when removing parts.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 I figured out my problem. It was not my bed flexing like I thought. I did not run the 16 point measurement. I only manually set bed level at 4 corners. I saw the zaxis was moving up and down on same layer where it should not. After I ran that 16 point measurement, I have great results. Instruction manual is very bad, never knew measuring program was required. We are getting good results now! Thanks

Cr5 pro and cr5 pro h have exactly the same Mother board. So If you buy bl touch for the cr5 h and install the cr 5 h firmwares so should that work. They have a weird split of the cables when connected to the board. Connected to differrent pins. But next thing is how do your x carriage look? The bl touch is attached with a small bracket there on the right side. You nhave to attach it there somewhere. Check crealitys after sale videos on replacing bl touch on cr5 h here on KZfaq. How do I know its the same board ? Could mot find a cr5 h board when mine broke and got the one for cr5 and only flashed the tight firmware. Where old cr5 one one it when it arrived. And get the right firmware and is a mess to get. Should be the one released in 2022 in the fall with marlin in the name. And you must flast both screen and board separately. I woke up here right now so sorry for spelling and things.

Which specific brand of the BL Touch did you use? I couldn't get either the Creality CR Touch or the Greeetech 3DTouch to mount to my printhead. The brackets weren't the right size and the cables were too short. @@3dskrivarskoj176

Sounds like heat creep. Its when heat creeps up the hotend. Is the top on so remove it and see If it still happens. I usually get it when forgetting to remove the top for pla or petg prints. Another thing is that the small cooling fan could be bad or dirty. Also check so you dont have dust on the parts that need cooling on the hotend. Early on did it happen to me that the tube with cooling pattern that is attached to the main fillament tube had slided down to close to heating block. With pliers and som force did I manage to slide it up again.

When I have same problem even with +10 degrees more and 30% less speed than usual I oil PLA filament as: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ha1nishpmLOZl5c.html. I print Firt and second layers at low speed (30 mm/s) without oil at all to keep glass from oil and next layers with oiled PLA filament. Do no use much oil. I try to print other 15-20 hours only PLA before print with PETG, ABS or TPU. As such filaments does not like oil at all. Always use clean spongue "filter" to remove any dust from new/old PLA,PETG, ABS,TPU filament spools. With PLA use two "filters" one clean filter and second one with olive oil printed on black PLA to distinguished from clean filter. First layer usually is printed at low speed that why it does not fail.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 So I removed the lid and it was printing fthen. I switched over to a different color filament. And now it runs for a little bit and then stops and starts with the clicking.

@@ZFighterSonGoku check the small 30x30 cooling fan. Either replace it or see If it only need a cleaning. The hotend cooling fan is not Great. You could also try to have the door open to give better air cirkulation. My machine is heavily modified so it prints very well today.

Yes they are on cults 3d webpage. Link Button on my startade for the channel. I sell some and some are free. I more or less sell them because I got tired of other sites stealing my designs and then selling them without my approval. Now If they do I at least earn something small.

You have original setup? I have 5 mm and 45 mms with pla. 4 mm 45 mms petg. After I modded mine iam down to 2-3mm with 25 mms. High temp materials like nylon i more or less turn retraction off because it like to clogg on stock nozzle and dont string much. If you have alot of stringing on nylon and petg etc so try to dry fillament 70 degrees atleast 1-2 hours in a ordinarie oven. I built my own drybox i use all the time.

Stock hotend like to clogg very easy on hightemp materials. Try to buy fillament from same supplier when you have a good setting. Even a differrent color can change ideal setting to avoid stringing. I usually have around 0.126 in prime amount after retraction also. This is a extra push amount to avoid gapps. And be sure to turn of power loss recovery in the start gcode..... Power loss is a mess on the cr5 and gives bad print quality.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Hi, PETG can be dry easyly with most of commercial dryer. However I could not find a commercial dryer for Nylon. I already have original hardware setup. My headache are strings with PETG. Using same PETG filament spool I can print well on printer with RAMP board and Anet A8 frame and bouden tube while CR-5 PRO H prints with a lot of string. I use 4.1 mm @ 40 mms on retraction settings for PLA. I will try with values similar like you for PETG. Which nozzle do you recommend for upgrade? Thanks again

@@isabelgardunodominguez3205 cr5 h have all metall hotend that could be the problem when you compare with your anet when it comes to stringing. I have a creality drybox with silica gel at bottom. When I use it i have a capricorn tubing from drybox all the way to the printer. 30 mins before printing i always start the heating for a while with the small Rubber plug open. When you heat moist have to get out somewhere. When I dont use nylon I have it completely sealed in the same drybox with silica gel pouches at the bottom. I could try when iam home to post a small video. Iam on vacation 8 hours from home right now 😁

@@isabelgardunodominguez3205 petg and nylon I always unload and put in sealed boxes with silica gel when not printing. Its more i cant afford lost time on failed prints.

I just received my CR-5 pro recently and trying to do basic PLA prints at the moment. What filament retraction speed and print speed do you recommend??

Where a while I updated mine. But wath I remember i had to search around on github If I remember it right. I think its small fixes but always good to have latest. But its a pain to update screen firmware as well and is a must. You have to loose the bottom plate and then the entire box screen is in. Then unscrew the screen to reach its sd card slot. Every firmware have its own firmware for screen. Else it gets dark.

My firmware zipp is called cr-5 pro_hmarlin 1.1.6-hw-v2.2-sw-v0.05multi. This have firmware and screen firmware. So wath you asked i have 0.05 multi. Multi stunds for multi language or everything is chinese. Iam happy with mine so not changing 😁 I have changed settings in firmware thru pronterface.

Wath I can see i downloaded it 2023-06-29 and where the latest then.

Does CR5-PRO-H firmware accept M852 gcode command?

@@arturomendez7945 only i know is that cr5 uses a old version of marlin. Dont think its marlin 2.0? Never used it but for me its better to have the hardware correct. You could put it in the start gcode and try ? See If it do anything. Simpliest to check. I could try to make a video explaining how I do it but its late here now.

If you look at the 8 screws on the top so are they connected to the brackets holding the rods for y. On them can you tilt the entire x and y assembly. 2 of them in each corner have cutouts so how much you tighten the screws on this affects how skewed it gets. Also make sure the y rods are inserted the same lenght in these brackets. My machine had one side slightly more then the other. I hope this helps.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Left rear bracket and right front bracket have cutouts only so I have no idea how to correct YZ plane only. Maybe I would have to move front sloted bracket to back.

@@arturomendez7945 you loosen all 8 screws so you can jiggle the entire carriage. Is it skewed on y or z plane? If y have one corner tightened and do adjustements and cross tighten when you are happy. When I corrected y so did I have 2 blocks in same size. Pushed back x carriage so the x Rod and the frame clamped them. Important its against the rods as far as to the right and left you can. Tightened the rear 4 screws. Now I do the same with the front that where loose during the whole process. Only loose not completely unscrewed.

@@arturomendez7945 there is really no good way to do it but using the block method worked for me.