I can hear every contractor within 1000 miles screaming “you can’t do it like that”!

Man… my hat goes off to you on this idea and execution! As I was watching this video, all I could think of was the wicking effect that would occur without a capillary break and then you answered that concern. 👏 Great creativity and excellent finished product. 👍

All my questions answered!! Gorgeous!!

Finally a modern baseboard

Just at the start but you can use a long leg L bead for a window return so the fiber comes up over the area where a baseboard would be. Look up trim-tex products. Good find on the BJ paint. Always start at commercial products for paints.

"Dennsshield" Nice video

Super nice baseboard detail,

Is reinventing the wheel...

Amazing work

I’m trying to avoid drywall as much as possible. Lots of ideas in my brain, one is flush PVC trim that looks almost exactly like what you’ve done here except would probably need a bead or reveal if it has to butt up to drywall.

Amazing detail! Thanks for sharing! Is there any reason not to just do the entire wall in densglass? Especially in the bathroom it seems like it would be great from a moisture / mold perspective.

Love this! Amazing job! I'm getting rid of all baseboards and door trim for my condo renovation. Can you please make a video of how to tile showers flush to drywal? like you have in your bathroom...

Briliant This is exactly what I was looking for. Cause I’m minimalist too. Can you please share the materials you used for that invisible baseboard and maybe a little video how to do it if you have. Thank you.

I remember seeing you on buildshow network in the past, glad that I found your youtube channel now that your no longer posting over there. Love your super modern details and designs. I was thinking of a detail where I wanted to run drywall into door frame (aluminum or steel) with no trim/casing just a flush transition. Just like you have with your bookshelf, but a door frame. I was worried about the drywall or in my case it would be veneer plaster cracking because of the different CTE's of the plaster and metal. What are your thoughts on that? Did you also use the L profile reglet where your wall runs into the bookcase or does they drywall go right to the wood? I was also planning on doing something similar on the floor wall transition but using a Z profile for a shadow gap.

Incredible idea man. Thank you. Can you explain or do a vid on the flush tile shower wall please.

I absolutely love this detail! Definitely want to try on my next project. Have you had anyone want this but with a plaster wall? Any benefit over painting with the Scuff-X in particular for the base/whole wall? Lastly, for that bathroom feature, is the whole wall Durock into DensGlass or entirely DensGlass?

i hate trim my self, im thinking of doing a shadow bead and raise the drywall the floor maybe 1/2"

Hello, I am Korean, and this style has become very popular in Korea about 3 years ago. A person on a KZfaq channel called Interior Show introduced a method called no-molding, which became a huge trend. There are many people in the world who think the same way as you, and I wanted to let you know that it has been accepted in the market. Personally, I am planning to immigrate to the United States soon. I was planning on getting used to minimalist interiors in Korea, but I was quite disappointed when I saw the standard of remodeled houses in the U.S. With too much trim, the rooms always look crowded and cluttered. Even the tones of the furniture, doors, ceilings, and floors don't match. In Korea, there are already attempts to collaborate between furniture and materials teams to match the tone of all products. Once your eyes get used to minimalism, it is very difficult to go back. I think Americans are like that too. I would also like to tell you about hidden doors, which are very popular in Korea at the same time as non-moulding. They are integrated with the wall and have no handles, making them feel like part of the door. In my opinion, this is the pinnacle of minimalism. I'm so glad I found this video. There are a lot of materials available in Korea that will implement the details you're thinking of. It's even cheaper. You don't speak Korean, but I'm leaving a link because I want to show you the details and photos of the interior design they are aiming for. I support you very much and will definitely contact you if I ever need to remodel my house in the future. Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment at any time.

Would it be possible to update the floor boards in the future with walls like these? Feels impractical in this sense

This is so clever. Could you please share the type of fiber glass gypsum you are using? I m considering replacing all baseboards in my house using you awesome approach

Hey Doug. Nice look. You called the L shaped metal product you use at the bottom a "metal L-rig?" I didn't quite hear it right. Is that also what you use to trim out the casing on your doorways and shelves?

Amazing detail, we are building our house in San Juan Bautista, CA and that is the look that we are trying to achieve. Thank you for sharing and definitely will be using this technique in our project. By the way how did you do your the concrete floor. It looks amazing.

Hi mate, absolutely love the video and the effort gone into trial running this in your own home! So, what are your thoughts on using James Hardie Villaboard for the baseboard detail? Villaboard can be used like plaster and stopped up just the same, it comes in 9mm which would allow for the L-Bead to sit flush with existing 10mm plaster (which is what we use in Australia) Just wondering what your thoughts are on this and whether you see any glaring issue? Thanks from Australia!

What about flooring? The trim usually hides the expansion gap at the edge of most flooring types (hardwood, tile, etc).

what is your detail at the door jamb?

Beautiful! what type of tape and mud do you use on this where the fiberglass board and regular drywall meet ?

Hey, (sorry for bad english) My screed is isolated from my bare wall (it is a solid timber wall), by a 8 mm thick perimeter isolation strip. Now the next step I think would be attaching (ie screwing) the metal-L reglet to the bare wall exactly with the upper edge line of finished floor level and finish the gypsum plasterboard covering of the timber wall. Now the tiles can be laid exactly underneath the plaster edge. First Question: Is this feasible in this way? Second Question: Now I have a (very) little gap ("shadow gap") between the upper edge of the tile and the plaster edge. You also have that little gap as far as I can tell from watching the video. When mopping the flor, water can flow into that gap, can't it? Would you leave that gap open, or would you fill it with a (of course flexible) joint sealer (such as silicone). What type of joint sealer would you take to close it? Thanks, Leo

Awesome project. Want to do it at mine. Does the water not get under the reveal and damage the interwall?

Hey! Thankyou for amaZing design solutions! I have a question about instalation. Right now I am completly “rebuilding” my apartment. And in order to apply that buity you have created I need to plan ahead. I need to laydown parquet but also i need to install plasterboard walls. To create invisible baseboard my parquet must go under the wall segment. So floor first walls later? Am I right? I am just very afraid about builders damaging the final floor in the process… what would be your suggestion? How to order the jobs in construction?

So you used 5/8 normal drywall up top to make it flush with the 5/8 dens glass? I couldn’t find it in a 1/2in size.

Would you recommend using a hardiebacker instead?

What I don't totally understand is flooring install. It seems to me that the baseboard covers up gaps between the floor and the wall. I can only figure that you have to install the floor BEFORE filling in the bottom 4" which is disappointing for me because I don't want to tear up my tile floor just to make the baseboard flush.

What about cement board instead of fiber backed gypsum. Which one is more compression and water resistant. ?

What happens when the house moves? Does the floor bumps into the wall?

I have a quick question mate; did you use a P50 bead at the base, or just a heavy duty L bead?

why not just dens glass the bottom 4 feet of all walls and then you don’t have to go through in a separate trim stage it’s just part of the boarding. Less joints overall.

Love this method and want to use it but are you ever concerned that having that tiny gap at the floor kind of compromises your air tightness? It feels like a caulked baseboard would be ideal in for that reason. I mean you could also caulk to the floor with your method but it would detract from the aesthetic. I may do this anyways - looks great

Where is the install video ? (you out in cuts in this video)

I love the look; but, doesn't the Denshield base create a butt joint with the drywall? Who wants to feather-out and sand a butt joint upwards and sideways every 8 feet on their hands and knees? (Denshield only comes in 3x5 and 4x8 as far as I know?)