I just did this exact repair this weekend before watching this video. It was obvious what the result would look like, but extracting the original screw was always going to be tricky. What I did was to put the piece in the lathe and turn off the remnants of the screw so that I had a flat surface to work from. From that point it was just a simple task to centre punch the centre of the screw and progressively drill out to the edge of the threads. Starting with a 1.5mm drill and going up to 3.2mm. The remains of the threads then just fell out. After pushing the brass nut flush with the top I could then just run an M4 tap down the hole to clean it up. For the other two new screws I went 12mm deep. As far as I’m concerned it’s a permanent fix.

Hi: Good video and good work. Remember that bronze only carries only one screw because it acts as a mechanical fuse. Now it has 3 screws and set with glue, so the element "mechanical fuse" has disappeared. Anyway, the way of doing the job deserves a great like. Greetings.

Meticulous work but it deserved a set of wooden "V" blocks when holding the Quill. Wakodahatchee Chris

Hi, Same lathe and same apprehensions but so glad I went down this route! My tailstock had a problem but it was to do with the tread, halfway along its travel it would bind (still uasable but stiff) one of the threads had been bent over, easy fix. Another problem I had was the leadscrew shear pin (replaced with a solid brass one now) @ the headstock never snapped when I got a bit cocky whilst power feeding, bent the drive gear and Warco wanted 58£ for the privilege I could have made one for well my time really as I had the barstock! Merry one to ye Dude. TFS, GB :)

Just did a similar repair to my Logan 11". Tailstock and screw were worn out, put a brass nut in like this with locktite and a press / heat and cool fit. Working so far.

Excellent fix…I was a bit worried when you were tapping the holes that you didn’t use cutting fluid, or back off the tap occasionally to prevent breaking to small tap….but all went well…I’m going to check mine now…👍

To remove a screw that is glued with loctite you can soak it in acetone over night. Better than protecting the surface with a paper towel is to cut a beer can with scissors and wrap it around. The aluminium is a better protection, and gives more friction to hold it in place.

nice fix mate ,i have a mini lathe etc ,i would have drilled and tapped from the outside diameter into the brass stopping just short of the thread but you did a good job....i am covid ridden and laid up glued to youtube and netflix,cheers from adelaide ...

I have the same problem on the same lathe only mine is blue (HBM), will need to take a look to see if the problem is the same, mine still ejects on tangs but is difficult on the flat ended ones. A stitch in time as they say, before it stops altogether, Thanks

You mill holes with a two flute cutter sir as they cut off centre

Nice work. To avoid future tool issues getting stuck in the tailstock, find yourself a bronze wire brush from a gun shop for a 12 or 20 gauge shotgun barrel cleaning rod. Add a threaded drive rod that will fit your battery drill and just use some CRC5-56 or WD40 to lubricate it well and run that bronze wire brush up the inside of the Morse taper sleeve a few times at low rpms. If there’s any chips or dirt that’s become imbedded in the Morse sleeve wall, that should hopefully free it up and remove it. The bronze wire brush should be soft enough that it doesn’t remove any metal from your Morse taper steel sleeve. They get used on chrome bored shotgun barrels to remove lead fouling etc so should be safe enough inside a Morse taper spindle sleeve imho. There’s 3 common gauges 12 bore, 20 bore (a bit smaller than 12 bore) & then 410 caliber which is a little under half inch. You should be able to buy bronze brushes for shotgun barrels at your local gun shop. Sometimes you have to buy the whole cleaning kit, with push rod and patches and chemical etc, but more often than not you can buy spare bronze brushes for the cleaning kits so that might be the cheapest option.

Nice little fix there do u have coolant on the bandsaw yet next up 👍👌🏻👊🏼

Have you considered adding a LINN tools tailstock DRO? I would like to hear your opinion on it.

oh wow your mill has a lot of run out on that drill chuck. Thats not helping. You also have the part standing way too high. Hold that in a couple of v blocks and it will help with the wobble.

Was that a hint of a new project, can it be improved? Yes it can 👍. 🤔

Stolen! Thank you! I have exactly the same issue on my Chester DB10 (Same lathe...different colour!) I'll be modding mine also!

Heat is your best friend

Cut up beer cans make better shims than paper towels

You definitely need to modify (more) and get more room (travel from the knee as it is , it isn't useful as a tool