‘Miniature don’t always come out the way we want them’. This happens more often than it does not for me. And thanks for the shoutout.

I like this mistake and learning video. The thing you have to remember about doing grisaille is that the paint is ADDING pigment to the base layer. Any time you ADD pigment you are making a thing darker (more pigment absorbs more light, less light reflected = darker). That means the color will make the undertone DARKER no matter what. If mid grey is already darker than the tint, no matter how much paint you use it can't get any brighter than the mid grey you start with. If you are painting a light color you want the mid grey to be nearly white and the highlights the brightest pure white. Also the shade of grey and white matters. Sometimes you get a cool grey which is made by adding some amount of BLUE to the grey. And as we all know, blue+yellow=GREEN. That goes for ANY and all yellows. (Brown and bone are just dark yellow). When putting down your grisaille you need to use a WARM grey and warm white under any color that mixes over them. On a personal note, I don't use metallic speed paints. You get FAR BETTER results by putting down a traditional silver metallic paint and applying a speed paint ON TOP of that to get the desired color metallic.

Despite the initial disappointment, great recovery! You demonstrated a good attitude toward the setback and brought up good techniques to circumvent the issues. In my opinion the model looks great in the diorama background. Great work!

Great video. Love the perspective. I will say that yellow is one of the “weakest” colors and when we paint with our black colors, they’re actually super dark blues and so the blues are what you see peaking through the yellow giving you that sort of sickly color and then yellow just not being strong enough to cover those dark sections.

I like when other people post up their perceived failures. Not to mock or belittle, but as a great learning experience. Seeing how it went wrong for you and how you recovered from it, was very informative. On more than one occasion, I have felt like I've completely failed in what I was trying to do. Sometimes I strip and start again, and other times the project gets shelved. I have a few projects sat on the half done. Next time this happens, I'm going to take a page from your book, push through and finish anyway, and see what happens.

I think the main problem here was that when Contrast did it's range additions it sort of created a precedent for colors that don't really act as this type of paint is advertised as, and Army Painter just followed suit. There's a few examples of paints like this, the Maize Yellow you used and its Contrast equivalent, as well as Sigvald Burgundy. They're more leaning towards the "one-coat paint" instead of "one-coat paint*job*" so you can spray white, slap some Maize Yellow and have a squad of Banana Marines ready for the table. They won't have much "contrast" on them, but your time painting isn't measured in cosmic timescales. Also, while the steel Speedpaint looks bad, the bronze one would probably look completely fine with a silver drybrushing!

Happens to the best of us pal. Still looks great though! What is the orange on the first base you were dry brushing at the start?

Nice job bringing it back. It's hard, especially with new/pricier models sometimes getting over that moment of disappointment when a paint job isn't where we would like.

Ended up looking great

I know it wasn't the speedy job you wanted, but the result is great! Thanks for sharing the learning experience.

Jimmy I don't know if you know: most blacks are a mixture of blue and brown. This makes an ugly green when covered with yellow. These days I base with magenta or brown for yellow areas. Canvas painters almost exclusively use brown to shade yellow. Fun fact: did you know that brown is just a desaturated orange? Even single pigments. It's why you can't make brown light.

Good Work. Informative.

I found the Maize Yellow to cover really well, but I was using it on a white primer not slapchop. Your mini looks awesome at the end though!

The new nickname for the guy is Egg Yolk Eddie, after using the Contrast Paint on his helmet. Everland Sunset..

Thanks for the details on this process, I'm going to avoid the 2.0 speed paints after watching this, when I want to do that type of painting like mass painting my Shadows of Brimstone core set mini's. I'll use my 1.0 set for that for now and I'll continue to learn/practice opaque painting with my pro acryl/Vallejo paints. Always enjoy your content, cheers!

Yea, most of my stuff looks sloppy but like you, i dont have the time and i dont have the patience. Anyway, they look good so put them on the table with Van Saar!!

Try using some speed paint medium if you find the paint is not flowing enough.

I dont like the traditional zenithal, I started to use light colored underpaintings instead. It gives a nice colorchange in the shadows but does not darken the miniature as much. I love speedpaints because I got tons of minis and traditional painting just takes too long. And you can always push a speedpainted mini with a few tricks or quick highlights and glazes.

You paint with Speedpaint 1.0 not 2.0 !