Major tips for removal and install of Bandit carb bank. Take it from me that has done Bandit carb banks over 20 times. Here they are. For the cables, loosen the throttle grip and and remove cables from the throttle grip. This will allow a ton of slack so you can easily unload the cables from the carb bank with the carb bank over halfway out making it super easy to remove and install the cables. Way way easier!! Wow! WAY!! For re-install, make sure all clamps are as open as they can be, use a hair dryer on high heat and heat soak the rubber boots and spray a ton of WD40 all over the carb rims and inside the boots to slicken them up. Easy install. When done with the engine side, do the same for the air box boots. Enjoy the ride.

Also. You will need to drill a tiny hole in your gas cap to vent and go with a gravity feed fuel valve and make sure to rubber cap the vacuum line port at the T Fitting.

Nicely done! I have not had the carbs out of my Bandit 1200 - no need yet - but videos like yours will help when I do.

Nice. I have found with an open flow exhaust (ie not OEM) the ideal adjustment for air/idle screws are set at 2 turns out. Tried 3 1/2 turns my first time , but it was always running like a tractor. I think the general wisdom regarding this always tends to come via emmision controlled jurisdictions, where jetting is different from the factory. Try 2 turns, if its not right for you, go back to how you think it should be. Personally I prefer setting them a set number of precise turns, rather than the recommended way while engine running and doing 1,2,3,4 at 1500 rpm etc etc. Just an easier system for me when I know its going back together, works well for me. I also find that most second hand problems can be sorted by pulling it apart and just putting it back together PROPERLY lol. Good on ya. I didn't see if you removed the floats, float valve and emulsion tubes. Any time I take my carbs out I make sure to remove the emulsion tubes and clen them as they are the main culprit for clogging over time, Fine rust particles from the tank on older bikes build up gradually blocking the hole in the tubes causing all sorts of weird tuning symptoms. Not as weird as missing main jets though, must admit that is bad. I have come across missing orings on idle/air screws, missing orings under the top covers (the really small ones in the sync tube recess) that easily fall out without noticing when removing or replacing covers..

where was the footage of how to re-connect the throttle linkage to the cam set up?

I worked in the UK as a despatch rider in the late 80s early 90s, and my GPX750 that was my non work bike, (that was a CX Honda) used to suffer from carb icing badly, even in temps not close to freezing, and that was with the carb heaters Kawasaki UK fitted to the UK model. For some reason the UK suffered from carb icing worse that other countries. Weird that, maybe it was their fuel🤷‍♀.

I have a 2000 Bandit 1200 I bought new, had the carbs off about 4 times to clean them out

hi how did you gets the airbox on so easy me and my mate have been having a nightmare with it (we can get the seals on but they seem to pop off straight away).

Hi Mate! I cant see vent hoses on Yours carbs, they are missing or engine dont need them to work properly? Greetz from Poland!

Does anyone know exactly what carbs he has here. I have the same ones and I'm trying to figure out the carb info so I can get jets for resetting mine for pods and no muffler.

Two 100s a 60 and one missing all together🤔 Ive come across that sort of owner before when ive bought second hand bikes, no clue at all, but not enough sense to leave well alone things they don't understand.😏