This video saved me almost $1000. The dealership wanted over $500 for each side, I spent about $60 for each cv axle and followed this video. Took me about 3 hours both side, with 10 years of stubborn rust and running back and forth for various tools (used a self-help garage bay that rents their bays/lifts for about 4$/hr and all the free tools for use they have - just limited on the number you can have at a time) and ZERO experience. This video made it easy to follow step by step :)

This is the best video regarding cv axle replacement I ever saw. Most authentic and easiest way. You gave me confidence and courage to change my cv axle by myself and save money. Thank you!

Aces. This dude knows his stuff. He explains well and takes his time. And is very neat. Been watching him for years.

Super helpful! I am going to take my car to get the CV joint fixed but I love actually knowing what will be done to the car. Thanks for explaining everything and getting the camera close to the tight spots so we could actually see what was happening.

Sweet! This is the first time I have seen anyone compress the caliper piston BEFORE removing the caliper. That does help! Thank you for the tip!

I ended up replacing the cv axle and it solved the shaking problem, now I dont know if it was because the weight wasnt put on there properly or if the loose weight had damaged the axle but funny enough the new cv joint didnt have one...just glad I dont have to drive through and earthquake everytime I do 65mph..lol

Excellent video as always! I just replaced a cv axle and I took the strut off instead of removing the brakes. Some cars are tighter than others. Once I removed the strut it was a really easy job. I used Milwaukee cordless tools. Milwaukee 3/8”, Milwaukee 1/2”. I also used a tie rod separator tool from Harbor Freight. There’s many ways to do these jobs and it’s good to know the different ways. I’ve tried it every way that’s out there. I’m just leaving this tip because sometimes you have to approach a job from a different angle. You always make excellent videos! Thanks for everything you’re doing.

I never had a problem with my 2006 Elantra's CV joint but I definitely did with my 1992 Integra. I'm not mechanic, but your video is a great resource for working on CV joints in general.

The tip about compressing the brake piston before removing the caliper assembly is super helpful. Thank you

Unfortunately the problem is still there, I dont think you can see it in the video but when you move the weight around its fairly obvious where it needs to be secured...oh and the torque spec for the axle nut is 170 ft/lbs. Tx for your comment and thanks for watching.

Good job on a very well done video. Well narrated and camera placement. Thanks for posting!

I learned a lot from this vlog sir. Thank you so much. I want to let you know that the unit for torque is not foot per pound (ft/lb) but foot-pound (ft-lb) because it is the product of the force (in pounds) applied at the point on the tool handle or lever and the length of the handle/lever from the point of force application on the handle/lever to the center of the nut/bolt to be tightened.

dude thankyou i didnt know about that weight, my cv's shud b fine for a bit longer then i thought, ur the man!

thanks very much for your video, i am looking to replace my cv's (not paying someone else to do it) your video has given me excellent insight on the process and i have confidence i can do it. thanks mate!

the best camera angels in Auto repair thank you

You just saved my ass. Made a daunting task into an afternoon project. Thank you.

thank you I have to replace my cv joint in my 1998 ford windstar van . After watching your video I now kind of got a idea on what to do. Back in my days a universal joint took a half an hour.lol thanks again great job

Funny how all these diy repair videos from 2013 2014 starts with a low voice hey guys like it's not a big deal at all, now in 2022 the intro is so hyped and the ads and the loud voice and excitement makes it like he's the only one in the world who's ever done that.

Excellent video. Very clear. What I'd like to know more about is the part about replacing just the clamps rather than replacing the whole axle. I'm getting shaking at 60mph, same as you did. I had assumed I would need the whole unit.

Very well explained with good clear camera angles to see what your doing ...thanks

That's a good tip. Always use Hyundai's transmission fluid. There is a reason for this. Hyundai transmissions have a weakness (at least in older Hyundai Accents from the early to mid 2000's and probably Elantras like your's too) and if you don't use their fluid, say goodbye to your transmission in under 500 miles. Their fluid is special and makes up for this weakness. It's a known issue I discovered in Hyundai forums online. If you use aftermarket fluid, it does not have the special additives, so ALWAYS use their fluid. I have heard that Hondas and Toyotas recommend this too and it's obviously for good reason. You can use aftermarket fluid on domestics without issues, but some of these imports need special fluid and it's worth the little bit extra for the manufacturer's fluid. Another good tip you didn't mention (cause you were just repairing the old axle and not replacing it, which makes sense why you didn't mention this) is if you are replacing the axle, always check the new spline length and number of splines on the new axle against the old one. Some vehicles, like my Accent have two spline lengths for two different transmissions used in these vehicles. Different number of splines and sometimes different length. Use the wrong one and again, kiss your transmission goodbye on under 500 miles. Great video and your tips should help me with my first axle replacement job. Wish me luck. Never done it before. As others mentioned, your camera work and camera angles were fantastic.

I love the bungie chord idea for holding the caliper. I had to cut a stablizer bar last summer when installing new struts and I guess a piece of hot metal melted its way through the cv boot so I'll be doing this procedure soon.

Absolutely great vid (like all the rest of yours). Straight forward and clear. Thanks brother! Subscribed. 🇨🇦👍🏼

On my 2005 elantra I had the same issue with the steering wheel vibrating at high speeds, it was a bent rim. It wasn't bent much at all but it made a big difference. But thanks for this video! I have a rip in my driver side cv boot so I'll have to change it out soon!

Nice straight forward video(very rare on youtube)many thanks for the video.

THIS VIDEO SAVED ME 2,000 US $ ON LABOR FOR MY NISSAN

You make excellent instructions. Thank you so much!!

Replaced both of mine only had to pay for the cv joints thanks to you man🤙🏻

Another great video. Easy to understand and follow

great video, yer one of the guys with skill.👍

Great video and straghtfoward explanation. Good clear shots 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Wow bro perfect step by step information and plus you camera view

Super , Great work ", That's why your car love's you .

Thanks man for the video I have to do the same thing on my 06 elantra because I'm having the same problems you said your car was having. I'm planning on just replacing the axle and why I have it torn apart I'm replacing the wheel bearing and hub also.

I started repairing cars in 1977 at age 14. Today at age 60, I still do all of my out of warranty auto repairs.

Great instructional videos. Thank you.

Thst was super awesome keep them coming very clean very knowledgable thx!

I replaced the driver's side CV axle of my "03 Elantra. Your video helped me a lot. Thanks so much. When I removed the axle from the transmission, lots or trans fluid poured out. I ended up refilling 4 qts of fluid. it's O.K. because it's almost time to change trans fluid. I think the part of the reason was because I jacked up the front of the vehicle. I didn't lift the side because I was afraid the car may flip over. Also I couldn't remove the tie rod end for some reason. I punched the knuckle, but it won't budge. I have a pickle fork to separate the ball joint, but I didn't use it because I was afraid I may burst the bushing. I just removed the castle nut and cotter pin and push the tie rod away. That was enough to remove and install the CV axle.

Excellent video..very helpful and very well explained.. Thankyou

Thank for showing me all you need to take luse to take out the credit joint

I just came across this video. Informative for the axle removal. It looked the clamps used were hose clamps. The worm part of the clamp could cause off balance condition during high speed rotation. The factory clamps do not have those extra weights. If the clamps were to be replaced, why the whole axle had to come out. Unless you wanted to show how to remove axle. Another cause of vibration could be bad motor mounts. Regards.

...Man you made that easy for us car guys who don't squart about car merchanics

Great video thank you very much ,greetings from Hellas!

You kick ass bro! Very easy to understand! Great Job! Hope my 2 go just as smooth!

you make it looks sooo easy...can you make a video how to change rear hub assembly on a 2002 Toyota sienna?

Excellently done and explained.👍

Thank you very much for this information.

FYI pry bar method does not always work for all applications. I tried this on my Jeep Commander today. All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.

u make that look so easy bro/i would be under there for a whole day probably with spanners that dont fit banging my head and cutting my hands to pieces lol.

Not doing it for this car but it helped me decide wether I want to do this myself or take it in.

Very good explanation on how to do this. Thanks

Great video! I wonder if it's possible to adjust/secure that weight without pulling the axle?

BRILLIANT!!! I now have absolute confidence, that i can save hundreds of dollars doing this myself. Well done. Keep the great vids coming. Subscribe?? Absolutely.

Great video exactly my problem almost 100% sure now thanxx 👍

mine is bouncing when i slow down. but the weight on c v alex that is new info for me. thanks for posting.

That's a good step by step description. I'm interested in how the counterweights shifted. Presumably they have offcenter weights, and it must have been hard to reposition it at the right axial angle. Did the problem go away after securing the weights? Did you ever get the torque spec for the axle nut? Some of those have very narrow tolerance, and others not.

Awesome video brother 👍

Awesomeness Hermano!!!Thank You Very Much

Thank you for the GREAT video. I think that I have the same problem on my toyota Venza. It too has the axle weight on the shaft. Now the question is why these weight exists? If it is for balance the spin, then put two clamps will unbalance the axle. Can I just take it off without weight on the axle? If it can do without, I may be able to take it out without pulling the axle out. Need your opinion. Thanks.

Wow. very informative. Thanks a lot.

This is a good video. Well done and good little hints and advice along the way.

Awesome video, thanks for sharing, my question is we follow the video, however when we start the car and put it in drive the front shakes, help please...

great video you are awesome I love how you don't mind getting your hands dirty. one more question did anchoring those weights down fix your driving problem?

Thanks alot completely understood everything once again thanks for this video

Is it much different on a 2006 Impala? Awesome video. Thanks so much.

BRILLIANT!!!. Cool vid keep up great work - were do you locate the weights on the shaft (centered?) if they become loose - I think I have same issues.... 2004 Honda accord EX. Springfield,VA

Thank you for your video I have click in my passenger side so is that mean drive shaft or bearing and this stated from 2 month and I still drive and go many places ,,so hope get your advice,,evan

thanks dude this is very helpful

Thanks,Great job i like your video

Very helpful! thanks for posting!

Great video! What do I do if I can't get the CV axle out of the hub. It's stuck . I've sprayed a lot of PB blaster. I hit it with a hammer.

Excellent video

Thanks,very intuitive,appreciated

great video! lots of good info :)

great video, thank you!

Thank you for share this video. I got the idea.

Great video but I'm surprised that you were so focused on every torque specification EXCEPT the axle nut! If anything, that's the one I'd be worried about the most man.

Very Very nicely done thnx

Well, I broke into the wheel well and got most of it unplugged but the axle nut. Mine has a bent piece instead of a cotter pin so I think I’ll use a torch to bend that piece up before removing the axle nut. I will likely also use a piece of pipe with pry bar after heating and lubricating the outside axle nut. It looks like I was pretty close! Quick question: Was there any steps to popping the axle out from the transmission? Any seal, nuts or anything like that?

great video thank you so much!

Thank you for sharing!

Yes, good step-by-step. What do you think might be the problem at this point?

You are the man!!!

@Ratchet and Wrenches when you compress the pistons like you did, is it necessary to bleed the brakes after you replace the Caliper/brakes? Also, will doing that push air or dirty oil into the brake line? Thanks for your time brother.

Did you replace the hub bearing assembly before considering the Axle? In case of similar vibration, I would think to check wheel balance first, and then hub/bearing, and the axles last..

I am truly grateful for this video. Thank you very much.

Thanks for showing!

If you don't have a air gun and need to remove the nut, then you can put a bar between the studs so it jams on the ground stopping the disc from spinning, then use a breaker bar to remove the nut. Good idea to put the nuts on when doing this so you don't damage the thread.

Good video. Most helpful. Thanks

I need to know where the transmission fluid goes in a 2003 Saturn Ion after replacing the CV axle on the driver side. Cuz when I took out the old one transmission

great video.... thanks

The best CV axle remove video on youtube. Autozone, EricTheCarGuy and others suck in comparison

Hi Ratchets And Wrenches, on the seal on the transmission, you say to wet it with some transmission fluid. How about some axle grease. Would that be better or would axle grease dry the seal out?

Great vid bud, subscribed

Good tip loose weights on cv joints mine is doing same and are fairly new cv joints thank you

GREAT JOB MAN THANK YOU VERY MUCH GOD BLESS

very clear view and helpful

good video for share it..i have a problem with my car hyundai atos is boot driveshaft driver is broken..please show me how do i can for D.IY..tq..

Were trying to replace a cv joint on my dads 2004 ram 1500 but we cant get it back onto the transmission. We didn't take off tie rods or anything like you did because a different video from 1A the guy left it all on. Do you think if we take them off the cv joint will fit in better?

Can you possibly answer some questions for me? #1. If the CV boot is torn up do I need to replace the axle? #2. If I replace axle do I need to replace wheel bearings ? #3. After replacement of axle cvboots and new rotors and brakes should the wheel make noise ? Does that noise mean the wheel bearings are bad ?