Also, even though I consider myself a pretty well seasoned mechanic, I learned a long time ago to take good advice from people when it’s given. I have to say that watching your videos and listening to you has taught me a few things that I am truly grateful to know. Thank you for the time you spend making these great videos! They really help people out.

Nobody does it better than your videos--I've learned so much watching them. Thank you.

I used to run and build my own comp eliminator engines back in the '80s . We always lined up the woodruff key on the crankshaft with the zero line on the balancer. We used to tape off an area 1/2 wide on the balancer and paint it white, then carefully and accurately scribe a line with a scratch awl across the balancer. This was a race engine that hardly ever saw dirt so it was always easy to see. You can position the timing marks anywhere you need them as long as you verify the TDC for their accuracy. We ran a Hilborn front cover with a injector pump drive and an ATI superdamper. We would set the magneto timing statically with a buzz box so we were always referring back to the timing mark. It HAD to be accurate. Great video!

I ran into that problem when I built my motor because I didn't use the original timing chain cover, instead used a chrome cover, took a bit of figuring it out. Always enjoy your videos, thanks for your time.

First a big thanx for taking the time to produce such informative videos. I usually take marking the damper a step further, by holding a carpenters square at the zero degree mark and using the side of the ruler as a guide to scribe a line using a triangular file. Then I can fill the groove with paint. Reason....I have lost the marks over time due to cleaning the engine, solvents, and plain dirt. Not being critical just my experience. Thanx again

I have been watching your videos for a few years now. you are by far the best instructor by far on the web.If I have any questions you are my trusted source,Thank you

Been fighting this problem for months on my build, great post. 👍🏼

Thank you so much for this. My car has a replacement engine with a lot of unknowns about what parts came from what year and type of engine. I'm new to Chevy engines and had no idea they moved the timing tabs around in this way but I wondered why I could barely see the timing tab way up under the water pump. The car is a 75 corvette with an engine from a 80 Z28. This explains it and perhaps why my timing seems so far out (the primaries on the carb are all sooted up) even though the timing seems to be on when looking at the marks. It's either this or the balancer has slipped. Either way...thanks for this video. Very helpful to me. Subscribed!

Thanks for the video you're always very meticulous I like that back in the day depending on what keyway positioning you asked for would depend on where your mark was

bro im having trouble seting my timing, but thanks to you now I have the answer to my problem???? awsome dude keep up the good work. p.s wish you were here in kansas city i could use your help, thank you sir for your time sir!!!!!

Thank you. I used the timing mark on the balancer, and it kicked my ass. You the man. Thanks for the video.

Excellent video Pro Engine builder. You do a great job. Best Ive seen.

Thank you! That totally explained our confusion when replacing a distributor and trying to time it!

Haven’t built a engine yet from block to fire so this was good info for me to watch for. Being a novice, less issues to avoid is good for me.

Your video mentions " some people " having problems with the timing on their sbc. I must admit that I have been one of the them. I have been so damn frustrated with the work I have done on my 82 c/20 with a stock 350 this last year during this pandemic B.S, With getting a used car/truck anything you never know what your really getting even new cars can be lemons right off the lot, so when you don't have a base line of what is working 100% as it should you can start chasing down possible causes for what is going on. So I bought this truck and it ran barely, and to my amazement passed smog out here in California that is actually something. So I have done alot of work with out having done the big dollar items and for the most part had to replace everything emissions related if parts were available. I ended up replacing the front of the engine ( new cloyes double roller timing chain and gears} along with cover , balancer , w/p, viscous fan, radiator etc. Now fast forward to last month when I have everything back together and start the truck. Set timing, idle speed and air/fuel mixture with a vacuum gauge ( installed a Remanufactured QuadraJet by Rochester } things running great. Take it for smog and it fails and print out says 32 BTDC. WTF !!! So I want to say thank you for this particular video, it is the only one that addresses this issue, I have read about the different diameter balancers between the different years and engine sizes but when ordering the parts there was nothing about the tabs and marks on the balancer etc. After watching your video I went out put engine tdc #1 and sure as shit the mark was off about 1.5 inches on the balancer. So I put a new mark on the balancer and ordered a movable marker for the cover. Not sure when I'm going to pull the front of the engine apart to put it on or just do the math when I retime it because it's still off a few degrees or my timing light is messed up because 6 degrees btdc is still printing out as 12degrees at the emissions testing facility. I am sorry for leaving such a lengthy message. I hope it gets the point across how frustrated I was and how helpful your video has been to me recently. I have shared this info with the few sbc chevy friends I hang out with, and like me they have never heard of this before. A good rule of thumb for anyone who repairs or fixes anything cars or not - Always compare new parts to the old ones and don't assume a part even if it's brand new , that it will work properly or is even the correct part. Thank you again keep up the good work and for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us " some people".

Thank God I came across your video. I was pissed and about to start tearing it back apart thinking I was off a tooth when I know I put it together correctly. Thank you Thank you

Great video my friend. One of the things I was thinking about was the balancer depth difference for the reluctor ring on vortec 350s I use the factory balancer without the reluctor rings and usually just turn a .100” spacer out of a washer or something to take up the slack present when the ring is not installed. You may mention this in one of your videos if you haven’t already. I think I’ve heard you speak of this before though. Love the videos and I’ve been subscribed for at least a year!

Outstanding dude ! You give us good stuff we can use...thanks !!!

You should do a video on putting a supercharger on a sbc, awesome videos so much knowledge!

I just entertained myself watching other timing videos. Lol. Thanks for your time Man.

I appreciate this video and anything related to sbc 350s Its little things like that That could really confuse me if i didnt know about it

just what i was looking for ---my balancer the factory mark is several inches off so when i got to top dead center i made new mark on crank-i put a small plug in # 1 rolled engine over when it pops plug i stop factory mark way off have try to start ,but getting clos -good video

This was the video I needed. Well done and thanks

Thx for the info, I didn't know about that. Could have caused a lot of headaches when assembling my engine

So concise, great video, love your content

Great Pro tip. More interesting is that blue skirted block on the yellow engine stand.

Great tool, interesting engines on the stands as well

Great info bro I really appreciate it thanks for the video

Great video. Keep them coming.

Thanks for answering me. I was entertaining the idea of building a promod. I watched your Ford vs Chevy video. I'm a die HARD ford guy. That being said I have two Mustangs right now. I know that Fords cost per HP is higher then Chevy. I would love to hear you opinion of this topic. where is Mopar in the after market now. I went into Heavy equipment repair and haven't raced in 30 years. I also may need to throw some work your way. I wasn't trolling you. My 17 hasn't had it's oil changed yet so I can't do to many mods yet. It has 3750 this evening but I have had it at the track twice. Staging at a tree felt really good. The base V6 Mustang will have to go. The cost of a S550 5.0 swap wouldn't be worth it.

Thank you, just what was I was looking to find out! I have two sbc's next to eachother, one with a new balancer and struggling to get the timing figured out. Checked the other engine and notice it had the tab at 12. This one has a tab 1. Likely the mark on the balancer is setup for 12... Time to find tdc and check!

Thanks for your videos brother there help a lot👍

*GM 350 is one of the BEST V8's built along with the LS Engines!!! AWESOME VIDOES*

there is an adjustable timing mark kit from Summit or Jegs that can solve the balancer/timing mark issue.

Thank you!! been scratching my head at this.

This explains my timing issue! Thanks, good explanation, and easy to follow.

Having this issue right now ! Thanks for the info

Very practical and informative . Thanks

Great video. I have an goofy question I got an 400 sbc and it came without the crank key im finding different sizes woodland keys and mine crank has two key slots how do you install them

I just want to say "Thank you" for this video. You saved a trip for the doctors, in their clean whites suits, from coming and taking me away to the "Funny Farm"... 😯😲😮😜

Great video brother I’ve been off the whole time it’s go time

This is one example of why people with timing belt engines should go to a dealer or a shop that services one manufacturer of a car. The other reasons include fast turnaround times due to the number of times the staff has replaced your kind of timing belt. Most cities in the USA have a "European cars only" shop, some cities in the northern USA have "Subaru only" shops, and most big cities will have a "Toyota and Lexus only" shop. Some cities may even specialize in one model of car, I am not sure how many cities have a "Nissan Z cars only" shop but there are a few. Those places will have that balancer installation tool for each application, whereas shops that service everything will usually rely on a soft hammer and block of wood. I think the early Mazda Miata and certain variants of Mitsubishi Eclipse would develop problems quickly if that tool wasn't used. Those engines were already troublesome anyway, so I don't know if using the specific balancer installation tool helps anything.

I m building a 355 with a 365 lift cam , do I need to degree the cam or just line up the dots and go

Got a question what do you recommend for break in oil on a roller cam

Unrelated to the video question. I would like your opinion on a crate engine I'm thinking of buying. A zz427 big block chevy crate engine. I will need to change oil pans for my application so I will be double checking main and rod bolt tightness. What would your concerns be ? I had a zz3 small block crate engine before. It was fine nothing wrong with it. A little to tame for me though.

What kind of studs are those? I tried that using grade 8 bolts and they bent immediately. Granted I had the pulley on so I couldn't get that close

Semirelated question but what is your opinion on timing chains vs. gear drives

can you explain why gm used different size balancers and why.

How to fix the issue when the engine is in the truck? Should I replace the balancer? Should I swap or modify the timing tab?

Is this typical for ALL SBC or just the 350?

Love your videos. I bought a L31 Crate engine from Jegs. Would the timing mark be correct on a new crate engine or should I check it? It has the stock plastic timing cover and balancer that came with the engine from GM. Thanks

What keeps the engine from rotating

Thank you so much for this video!!

I'm building a 350 that I bought used. I do not know who the engine builder was. After removing the pan I found that all the rods had number stamps on them but did NOT correspond with the correct cylinders. What should I be looking for? Could this engine (rods) have been through a "balancing" or was someone just sick when they reassembled this engine?

I have a question ? can you build a 331 cubic stroker out of a 305 block and using the 400 crank with block machining ? some guy said he has done this using parts laying around thought maybe this was crapola

Great info. Don’t the Windsor small block fords haves few different timing marks and balances too? I remember a buddy of mine chasing the dragon with that on a 302 ford a few years back.

Is there any way you can do a 318 Chrysler build on camera? 72-85 year

I am currently researching to build 383 stoker I have acquired all of rotating assembly and cam. Summit has a 350,383 block which they say has been clearanced for the 3.75 crank should have in a week or so heads will be my next acquisition. My question is can I ship my parts to you and have you assemble and ship back

You can just buy the proper timing tab. it is for a late model first gen SBC. It puts the timing tab over center at the 12:00 o'clock position. It's called a 12:00 O'clock timing tab.

How do you know if you're at top dead center of compression or exhaust on any engine?

So I have been fighting timing on my car I am going to try everything you said because I have a feeling I have the issue of my timing mark being off.

Hello, I have an 85 camaro 305 tbi l03 engine and I want to do a 350 swap but I live in L.A California so I can't really do much bcuz of smog..I was reading ppl have done it b4 but just put the 305 heads on too pass smog, Will it work? And how would the car run? Why can't I just put the hole 350 engine with 350 heads on?...

All due respect, using a dial indicator as shown in this video (at 5:35 into the video), is not the most accurate means of locating True TDC. Reason.... the crankshaft can still roll a bit (in either direction) while the piston only "appears" to be stationary while at theorectical TDC. Using the same principle, we want to stop the crankshaft at an equal distance on either side of theorectical TDC. This can be done using a dial indicator with an "in-the-hole" distance of .250" (for example), or by using a degree wheel and a PPS tool (positive piston stop), and targetting a "stopping point" of 25*/30* on either side of theorectical TDC. (we can also use 20*, 25*, 30* or even 35*, as long as the split is enough for better accuracy) But let's say that we use the dial indicator method: We bring the crankshaft around and stop rotating it when the piston is exactly .250" (or a demension of your choice) from the cylinder block deck, as indicated by the dial indicator.. At that point, we stop rotating the crankshaft. We mark the balancer aligning with the ZERO tab mark. Now we do this same thing in the opposite direction, and once again stop rotating when the piston is .250" from the cylinder block deck, as indicated by the dial indicator.. Once again, we mark the balancer aligning with the ZERO tab mark. Next, we accurately split the difference between these two new marks, make a NEW mark, and then rotate the crankshaft until the NEW "split" mark aligns with the ZERO on the timing tab. Now we have established True #1 TDC. If the OEM markings are off, we need to get rid of them, and/or make the new marks very bright and much more visible. Again, all due respect to the author of this video.

What is the name of the the gates do you use for your piston

Good tip 👍😊. Thanks.

Fixed my problem Thanks

Great video my damper has two marks on it and my timing cover has one position which mark do I use

Thanks a lot! have the same issue. i understand now...

You saved me thanks 🙏🏽

Great video. I got a 307 motor from a friend and the distributor , carb, balancer and so-forth was in a box. Now I really don't know what I am doing because I am learning about this stuff. I checked on KZfaq on how to put the distributor on and set the timing. I found TDC then got the distributor to lock in place. But I was not on TDC anymore. I am not sure if I did it wrong, or is that normal??? Any pointers??? Thanks for sharing. Andy

I think I have this problem on a 4.3 V-6. The mark on the balancer is off by a simular anount. Unfortunately the engine is completely installed. Any suggestions on finding TDC on a assembled engine. Ok ther than a pencle in the spark plug hole?

I've always installed the timing chain cover BEFORE installing the balancer. logic tells me it's an easier fit!!

Very helpful, thank you.

What pistons and cam are you using?

How many degrees different are the marks?

Lots of videos and tv shows show someone beating on the balancer, even with wood or mallet etc. Reason that is bad, you're beating the crank back witch can damage bearings, rear seal and more than likely the main bearing that sets your fore and aft play on your crank.

Awesome info!!

Didn't know the balancer goes on the camshaft,tighten it till it hits the cam? Also no mention of a key?

Great tip. Thanks

Awesome information

What size harmonic balancer I need on a 350 Chevy 8in, 6in , or does it real make a diffidence what size the outside diameter is?

Is there any way I can get in contact with you to ask a few questions?

Is there a way to check TDC with the heads on? Maybe a dial indicator in a sparkplug hole?

How do you know what to set timing at

My timing cover doesn’t have a timing tab…I do have degrees on my balancer tho having a hard time

The best days include Myvintageiron7512 videos.

I was wondering I have a 1994 chevy k1500 5.7 before vortec and I bought some headers for it, but they have a round port and I believe the heads are square port could I still run these headers, side note: I want to say I can because the round ports are lager than the square but I'm not sure. Thought I would ask you cause I don't know anyone in my area

I'm from Florida, I want to make a 350 mercruiser (GM) marine engine using aftermarket aluminum heads and forget pistons in a 4 bolt main block. For marine engine what kind of cam will you recommend , to get the maximum torque and horse power for marine application. I believe the cam timing and degrees are limited in marine use in order to achieved over 5k rpm in order to get speed. I'm want to swap a 4.3 to a 5.7 mercruiser in a Donzi sweet 16 with a Alpha 1 gen 2 stern drive...Any advised will be very appreciated...Thanks

I want to start this question by telling you I dont know anything about timing and Im struggling right now trying to set mine. Thats why Im here. Wouldnt it be easier to find TDC and THEN put the balancer on so the mark lines up wifh zero?????

Today is a sad day for me. Instead of installing the engine I am having to tear it apart again as I was rotating the block and priming it with oil I heard a snap and now a few of my push rods are bent on cylinders 3,5 and 6 .The only upside to this is I am glad I did not find out after installing it on my truck. Now its back to square 1 for me. Another hard lesson to be learned today I just hope the damage is not to bad when I find out the aftermath. 5.7 Vortec back to the machine shop that did the head work and provided me with a custom cam a 265 and 480 lift ex. and int. I was told it will work with the stock parts since the cam is not to high.

I learn that timing location. The hard way. Great advice!! Thanks for sharing! Larry

Hey awesome video brother question so does it matter if you go from a 6 in to a 8 in balancer or is there a difference? I thought 8 In was for trucks and the smaller ones for cars but I don’t know that’s why I’m asking.

New subscriber to your channel. Looking for info on hei distributor installation and timing info. Great videos

Check your clearance most balancers I bought have over 2 thousand press I hone mine out so I have 1.2 to 1 thousand,,,,, now that is if your crank and balancer are new but I think you should always check it!

It’s funny because my shop just figured out this was the issue with my motor. I’m getting my truck out the shop tomorrow

that was excellent information, i never knew this,,,,great video.....thanks,,,,, as always your the best.

Since there is a little float at TDC where the connecting rod transitions from raising the piston to lowering the piston, my question is: Should I mark where the piston first reaches the top, and then mark again where the piston starts back down, then split the difference to mark my TDC? Or should I mark TDC where the piston first reaches the top?

What are you using for a phase converter ? What size and make ?

Thanks. That’s exactly my situation.

thanks great info