Yeah, kind of interested to see how long it all takes dropping the subframe down vs changing the turbos while the engine was still in the car. should be a good week none the less.

After seeing Jakes snap on torque wrenches yesterday, i kinda want one, really bad. haha. I have taken the approach of trying to learn how tight things should be. But it's about time, i got and did things properly. Oh and if it makes you feel any better, i have done all of these items on the e92, while the engine was in the car.... Was definitely a slightly longer process.

@@ZeroTo60Tube I know the pain you’ve had, I’m the same. You’re not a man until you’ve done all the gaskets on a N54 😅

@@ZeroTo60Tube Definitely get one ! (or maybe rather 2 or 3 depending on torque capacity/size and good quallity/proper calibrated as well) You will also need one to properly tighten those oil pan aluminium screws. I cannot recommend using the "go-by-feel" on these, as you did in this video! BMW has different torque specs for the different lengths of oil pan screws on the N54 (M8x26 = 8 Nm+60 deg. ; M8x36 = 8 Nm+90 deg. (cannot remember if this size was used) ; M8x92/112 = 8 Nm+120 deg.) - so obviously, if not following these, there is high chance they will not be tightened enough or you simply snap one or more, depending on your feel for aluminium screws. Did my oil pan gasket a few months ago, with the engine in car, and it's not something I want to redo (or even just getting access to re-tighten them) anytime soon, due to inproperly torqued screws , LOL😅

Super cool engine out maintenance work. Seems so worth it to get things done and done right.

These bolts, x amt of NM the 1/4 turn more...this passes the point of plasticity, meaning stretch it more or again and fatigue sets in, or it breaks. This is some techincalndoodoo - term of art - and if you own an engine stand, if you know where the subframe is, if you're a monocoque -- get a torquer, get three, at least one that's digital, and stop your (oilpan) weeping!

Koby Cleary my xi has a some seep, should be extra fun, I’ll do everything else that requires a subframe drop at the same time.

@@uisperfectemail9720 I’m very glad I just have rwd. It’s an excellent opportunity to do some preventative maintenance. Especially water pump and thermostat.

Great idea

That’s interesting to know.

That is definitely the most mentioned item in this comment section it would seem. I did replace the one on the e92 a few months ago. Hopefully get another few years out of that one.

@@ZeroTo60Tube apologies I didn't read all the comments. I was told once one hose starts to go they are all due. I was pleased I got the kit. Because the u shaped hose on the back of the water pump has also started to expand and lose wall strength. Here is the link to the kit I got. Took 3 weeks to get here as it was on back order. About $670 Aus landed. Not too bad when you start adding up factory hose cost. vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-billet-silicone-n54-coolant-hose-kit/

Idk how that’d work, especially on an awd model. Doesnt the oil pick up/oil pump get in the way of just sliding the gasket in? Anyway, i just did mine a couple months back. Huge pain in the butt

The ones in the e92 are actually only a few months old.

Thanks, will do!

Very good points. And kind of agree with you on the sump gasket/bolt situation. Wonder if anyone has tried silicon on a n54.

@@ZeroTo60Tube Can't see why it wouldn't work. Also, I'm disappointed you didn't address the mickey mouse fitting :P

Well that little coolant fitting, i one of the few issues i haven't been blessed with experiencing. I actually fitted a new one when i did the turbos a few months ago. I figured the factory plastics ones normally last 8-10 years, so its nothing too scary.

Oh man, i hadnt really thought about how much more mess you have to deal with on the xdrive cars. Congrats on getting that all done.

@@ZeroTo60Tube oh god ya it's a pain. Not to mention had to change the cv as well on top of it all so had to deal with going to part store and them handing me the wrong cv twice...came close to snapping. haha

Awesome! Thank you!

very good point. The one on the e92 at the moment is only about 12 months old. Hopefully it's still good for a little while.

I've been researching them. Not easy to source in Australia. But that will be for the next motor anyway.

No worries man, if you have any questions just shoot them in a comment and we normally get back to you pretty quickly. Just as a heads up youtube notifies us of new comments, but not the reply to comments. Strangely.

I do have a near new plastic one, well its been fitted for like 2 months. So hopefully shell be fine.

I go for an alloy one, as the plastic will fail. You can remove the old one by just crushing/crimping down on the hose where it's connected. The hose itself will last a long time.

Just a suggestion, many others like it available, www.ebay.com/itm/292498818274

@@ZeroTo60Tube it's about $13 posted. Maybe $15 for an alloy one off eBay or amazon ex china Then it's good for lifetime

Because being on the automotive industry for the last 20 years working around actual workshops and even running race teams. For the work I do myself, I shouldn’t need a torque wrench lol. I think the internet really slows down a lot of people’s progress on the tools. All the real mechanics I know only use them from for head bolts and bearings.

I hope so, i really hope so haha

Hey Dude, i miss read your comment this morning. I didnt realise you were asking a question. I have pulled 2 now. Did the first one outside on the ground, then this one on the lift. Its not hard to pull it out, but you really need to take your time and make sure you remember everything. If you have any questions about tackling it, just let us know.

@@ZeroTo60Tube Thanks I will.

You really shouldn't need a block off plate. The belt wont come off if everything is maintained properly.

You gotta remember this is an N54 it wants to hurt your feelings and bank account. Seen it happen a few times in the Facebook groups from alternators going bad and ps pump 🤷🏻‍♂️I got one on mine cause it’s 100 bucks and I know I don’t gotta worry about it plus you got the engine on a stand right now

true true.... now i have made that comment i am sure it will come back to bite me.

Yeah same one. Keep in mind I do run a upgraded pcv valve, but the cover itself if sweet.

I wasn't mainly because the last one i did dry and it was perfect. Also being able to see all around the head while its on the stand, makes it a risk free procedure. I can actually see its located perfectly which is nice.

Thanks very much for the offer. I will need one sooner or later. But no mad rush. The plastic one on this motor is only a couple of months old. So should have a few years in it yet. Hopefully is funds allow, i would love to build this e92 motor to a forged spec and fully blinged out over the next year or so.

Zero To 60 how can I send it to you?

To be honest I think unless you are in Australia postage will be super expensive. Where are you based?

Zero To 60 I’m in California

@@molitorshop2077 Yeah, international postage sucks at the mo. I really really appreciate it. But just try and sell it to someone local.

I actually bought new ones, as they weren't too bad price wise when i did the fcp order. However i have cleaned the old ones and kept them for a rainy day. Nah, i wont be going with arp bolt on the ring gear or torque converter. Just standard ones on this setup.

You running stock turbos or upgraded ones? I rebuilt mine and have stronger internals so im currently building an easy 20-21 psi. Might save your front and rear main seal by getting one of those VTT crank case one way breathers.

@@milehighboost5521 Running upgraded twins with 11blade compressor wheels. My rear seal already leaked before i did the upgrade, I will have to change it anyway someday. If you have stronger internals, 21psi should be nothing I guess.

Not yet, I’m betting it’s cracked ringland. But lm not sure how good of an engine the e92 one was. I express my concern for it in many videos.

I honestly wanted to, but couldn't track one down in time. I do want to circuit this car at some point so i will need one. Do you know of any reasonably priced kits?

@@ZeroTo60Tube store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-motorsports-oil-pan-baffle-bmw-n54-p1435.aspx advancedautofab.com/p/aaf-oil-pan-baffle-n54/ Found these two, but I'm lost when it comes to recommend one over the other. I'm fairly sure you would want an expert opinion, preferably from a source that's closer to a track rather than a street tuner.

I have no issues with the china valve covers. This one is still fine. Another i used on another car for 2 motors. I think the plastic is fine, you just need to expect issues around the 5-10 year mark.

@@ZeroTo60Tube that’s good to know Beats paying almost $1k for BMW part I was considering getting Elring gasket and valve cover for $400 given they are OE for gasket but might save the money and get Chinese for $150 Did you still use OE for the Gasket? Ps love your work

Not really with out seeing exactly what’s happened. Sorry man.

Zero To 60 all good, the head of the bolts basically are a little mashed up. I think that really bitchy one in the back left corner could be damaged too 😳

I don’t think so. Bit this car.

Not this time. Both seemed fine and the motor is just temporary while i build the other one. It was all about spending as little as possible this time round to save up for what’s coming bext

haha, i think it's a shame so many people rely on torque wrenches so heavily.

A lot of people don't know the quality of what is available. Not everything from china is rubbish, hell a lot of OE stuff is made there these days.

@@ZeroTo60Tube True, but how do you know until it fails?

haha, awww shit.