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@@NationalBowlingAcademy definitely

Right I feel like a ball hooking more would be strong and a weak hook would hook less

how about low energy and high energy balls

@@FSUSean2112 Yes, or Strong on Dry Lanes, Strong on heavy oil. I consider my Motiv Hydra to be my Dry Lanes Jackal.

no thx

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You definitely need to get something new. Storm Hyroad, or IQ and Motive Venom Shock are awesome benchmark balls.

You could use a wooden ball if you’d like. Just have to hit the pocket flush.

Landmine VG just throw a spare ball or something, like a motiv sniper

I bowl about 150 and I don't "usually get strikes" so I'm not sure what you're talking about... And I have a specific starting place when I bowl.

i’m new as well and i ended up getting a urethane a hybrid and a pearl cover stock it handles most of the conditions i play on pretty well and it’s a good start i eventually will end up having more than 20 at some point lmao but that’s with time

the stronger ball moves less but it uses its energy sooner, not retain it.

David Clark this is exactly what I do with a ball speed of 19-20 mph I never have to change lines I throw down 10 and maybe move a couple boards left I drill balls so I have plenty of used shit I've drilled out for myself that I can pick from to read the lane correctly according to condition I will not move I have an arsenal big enough to accommodate anything which is nice but not everyone has that luxury I don't believe this is an accurate representation of strong and weak ball either poor in my opinion but to each their own

d rouse have you tried an entry level ball like tropical storm, they tend to hook less and still have decent power also they make a lot of great urethane balls like the pitch black and the black hammer, i would stay away from the hot cell it’s a great urethane ball but i find it read very early

Try using the Robby Revs 2 wrist brace should keep ur wrist consistent

I'd try a higher number Abralon Pad like 4000 grit - or polish the ball - or both. If the ball is like 500/2000 you could even try try tuning the ball down a bit and go 1000/3000 (OR ANY COMBINATION THEREOF). The first number (500) is for the backend reaction, and the BIG number (2000) is to get the ball down the lane. You can sculpt your ball to read the lane in a way you can manage. I bought a spinner so I could do it myself. I'm 61 years old - 193 avg. Mid range balls might be easier to handle if you've been throwing top of the line balls. YOU may also have to figure out how to use the oil as your "friend" and bowl more in the oil. Friction has become your enemy....... how you deal with it is scientific bowling - throw the ball - observe the ball - decide what to do. Good Luck!!!!!

You need a low flare layout with a short pin-pap. Something like 90x40 @ 2" or less [maybe 1 1/4" for wood], then play with surface as others suggest. At 14, you're probably getting earlier read than you might like, so pearl with some surface [to bleed off a touch before end of pattern/make it less jumpy] might be an idea. Something long with a higher rg and low hook rating like the Rhino is something to consider.

I would suggest going to your ball driller and tell them what you bowl on and have them suggest a ball and layout for your game. I know how it is to get old.;-)

That's what I got from this.

paper model is pretty accurate, a lane is 60 feet long while it's only 3.5 feet wide so it's approximately a 17:1 ratio. I disagree on it being semantics as there is such a large gap between people who understand the concept and those who don't.

Ok, I'm gonna give you the dimension question even though I think he's a tad off. After a bunch of googling I realize the lane is narrower than it appears when bowling. On the other hand the semantic thing is clear. Someone at some point had to decide whether they should call a ball that hooks easily a weak ball or a strong ball. That person chose to call it a weak ball. Fine... that's a semantic choice. All I'm saying is I think the confusion stems from the fact that most people would call an easy hook ball a strong ball, not a weak ball. It's not a matter of if they understand the concept or the physics behind it. It's just that a ball that hooks a lot is a ball most people would think of as strong, not weak.

A weaker ball will travel further down the lane before hooking (weaker grip) a stronger ball will hook earlier ( stronger grip) Makes perfect sense if you eliminate the left to right movement from the equation.

I think of a ball cover as sandpaper and weaker vs stronger in abrasion characteristics.

Mud tires have more surface area and are stronger at getting the vehicle to move in the slippery mud, earlier, and will appear as a much less drastic change of direction because it's grabbing sooner and longer before it hits the drier part. Performance street tires are weaker at getting the vehicle to move as soon in the mud, but once they do get to the drier road, will drastically move and have a much more angular recorrection of direction at a later time. This is how it is being defined & what they are saying in the video. The description of it this way is coupling the understanding of the front to back time in each of the 3 phases of ball motion. Essentially a "stronger" ball has a coverstock that tries transitioning sooner to the hook phase than a ball with a weaker coverstock that waits longer to transition to the hook phase. Pros and elite players use this way of viewing ball motion/shape to help them find their desired ball path to get their ball to the pocket.