Yup I paid around same $700 for my first CVTech on the Outlander. Was a great deal I couldn't say no for the second clutch. Xmas is coming and I think a STM secondary might be under the tree for John. The CVTech work so well with the STM it's almost a must.

And it's awesome that my cheap ass CF Moto ZForce came with CVTech clutching from the factory bone stock!!

I know that feeling. Took me a while too. But when you get it, it's a great feeling. It snappy as hell and buttery smooth when you want it. I've never had to change my belt again ever since I added this clutch and I ride a lot in high gear. Thank you for sharing your experience. It always feels nice to know these videos are helping someone out there.

I am really happy to be reading this because i am very close to purchasing one!

Thanks for the heads up on the sheaves punch index. I really didn't notice them but I will have to take a closer look next time. When I first got the clutch, I really struggled with it to get it setup to my liking. Spoke with several people about stroke limiter, balance counter weight, which spring to use, helix angle of secondary etc.... Everyone had different opinions and I never liked the way it ran and I could never reach top speed. It was either a rev monster or it just bogged down my engine with too much weight. I tried it all. Different springs, helix, with and without stoker and balance weight until I got it where I like it. At the end of the day my message is. Don't be afraid to experiment. We all don't have same riding style and setup, so you need to tweak as you like it for what you do. I think I'm the only guy on the internet that is running a 1010 primary spring plus shim with the lightest weights, no stroker and no counter weight and I love it. I'm not try to say this is how all trail machines should be setup. It's just how I like it. Thanks again for you input Chad.

Removing back plate I don't think it makes it any faster but it just gives you a quicker throttle response when on/off the throttle. It's just what I'm used to. If I put it back on, it makes my machine feel lazy. I wouldn't recommend this if you like sitting in water a lot. The heavy mass helps keep the engine idle at low rpms. When it comes to weights, think of it as low gear and high gear. The more weight you add the more it wants to switch into high gear, not enough weight then it may never get into high gear. I find it's easier to start light and work your way heavier. Starting light your machine should feel like a screamer. Typically this is usually paired with a 1016 or 1017 spring. There are so many combinations and variables that it's very difficult just to summarize it in one sentence.

@@FrankiesChannel Ah I see. In that case I'm gonna keep the back plat on and as for the weights. I have a 1017 spring so I might try to go a little heavier on the weights

@@FrankiesChannel whether by removing the back plate we get a stronger jump and power shock when moving and whether it can increase the transmission clunk sound when we move

For the price it’s an excellent clutch. Just make sure you get the correct Spring and weight combination from whom ever you order.

Thanks for the info

Biggest problem with stock Can Am clutches is the inner and outer sleeves don't lock. So even with clutch kit they will still slip and burn belts and loose performance. STM Secondary roller clutch will be the next step. I already have it on the Outty and works really well with the Cvtech. A few years back I purchased a couple QSC fixed clutch kits for our previous machines and always felt it was a waste of money. Thanks for commenting

Good to know, Buddy just switched to the STM and wow I think large difference. I think they all take a little fine tuning to get the most out of them eh. Thx for the feed back will come in useful if I jump on the Can Am train.

STM is the cream of the crop for Can Am clutching. If I was racing for a profession then STM is the only way to go.

All your ride's are a race, Hahaha Fast moving pack

No man that's just in the videos. We spend more time eating lunch, drinking espresso and picking up Gagin's machine every time he rolls over.

I just picked up the clutch off the shelf from Royal and I'm pretty sure it was setup for large tire mud application. It came with 1017 Spring with 2005 weight. I don't like this setup for trail riding so I switched it to 1016 and added washers on top of the 2005 weights. Total weights+washer+sliders=156 grams. I still need to test this setup, only did quick run up and down our street. Hopefully weather gets better and we can get out to finish setup. My outlander has STM secondary, so it's a completely different setup. 1010 spring with a shim and 154 grams total weight. I like low engagement so I needed to add a shim to prevent the machine from creeping forward while sitting idle. It took me months before I was happy to find my setup. If I remember correctly the basic setup to start with is 1016 with 2006 weights. Most guys just start here and tweak the weights depending on tire size and weight. 28" Zilla vs 28 Bighorn would have a different setup since bighorn run true to size and are heavier. So unless you can find another machine with exact same setup. It will be hard for me to just say go with this setup. But it's a start. If you need help after you get it. Just PM me.

You prolly dont care but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me

@Cody Jasper Instablaster ;)

@Walter Marcel I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.

@Walter Marcel it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much, you really help me out :D

@Cody Jasper no problem xD

Ya I know. I have 3 tripods and too lazy to go find them. On my machine I did change the secondary to STM and my sons Renegade still stock secondary.

I have the CVTech on my Outlander for a few years now. That's why I bought a second one for my son. In my opinion anyone running big mud tires on a Can Am. It's a must to change out the primary clutch. The stock primary sheaves don't lock together and this is where the major problem is for burning belts.

how do you find the performance and power delivery?

Stroke limiter limits the amount the clutches will close. It's there to prevent the belt from riding to far up and over the sleeves. But I found that it prevents me from reaching that final gear. With it I found I struggled to reach my speed limiter of 125km/h. With it off I can get right up to max speed. The back plate acts like a fly wheel and is needed for the harmonic balance and Cvtech doesn't recommend removing it. It kinda matches the weight of the stock clutch. By removing the plate the clutch is extremely light and the snap and throttle response is so addicting that I didn't want to put it back on. I spoke with a few performance shops about it and they all don't seem to concerned. So I've been running for a few years like this with no issues. Maybe I should've commented about this in the video. But I was just thinking it was a Black Friday deal and giving John an upgrade to his machine. But thanks for asking. I sure others would probably ask the same thing.

Have you had any idle issues with the back plate removed in your outlander? have you had the cvt cover off to inspect your sliders and other components for premature wear due to the backplate removal? thinking of taking mine off but wanted more info on doing this

Good Tip!! I forgot all about that. When I first got my clutch a few years back. I was struggling to get it setup and I couldn't reach top speed. So I tried the marker on the sheave trick. John seems to be liking the new clutch. When I'm editing video and watch he's camera. I see him constantly popping the front end up every chance he gets.

Basically you're trying to get your clutch to rev between 7200 to 7600 rpm and that should take you right up to your speed limiter of 70 mph. If you're below 7200 then you have too much primary weight, if you're above 7600 then you don't enough weight. If you are in between those numbers then the stroke limiter could be keeping your from reaching top speed or you have a stiff finishing spring on primary or secondary. It's basically a balancing act. There are so many factors. Spring rates, weights helix angles. But there is a site on facebook that have many guys that can help you out. It's call Can Am Clutching and tuning.

Wow my 2012 650 Max XT is a heavy machine with all my gear loaded in the front and rear cargo boxes and i max out at 121 km an hour which is 75 mph

You should hear any clunk noise. I wondering if maybe when it was installed if the outside sheave was locked into the key slot before tightening the bolt. I did that once and it made a funny clunk noise. Just make sure before you tighten the primary bolt. You push the outside sheave in and turn it. You should feel it lock in. Then hold it there and tighten.

Sorry. meant to say You shouldn't hear.

Mike Broek did u fix the clicking noise I have the same problem with mine

Yes I used both. 1st the new centering washer then stock washer on top.

Frankie's Channel ok. So you do have to use both or can you just use centering?

+Hunter Broussard I would think you would be okay with just using the centering bolt.

Frankie's Channel ok. Thanks man for advance

Frankie's Channel do you know the torque spec on this bolt?

The purpose of back plate is for harmonic balance and also acts like counter weight on a fly wheel. I spoke to several performance shops and some say leave it and some say take it out. So I just figured to try both setups and see what feels best for me. With plate off it has wicked throttle response then when you put it back on. Feels a little sluggish. So you know how it is once you get a taste for something. I always left it off ever since 2013. Only downside that I've noticed is when cold, the idle is a little rougher because of lack of rotating mass. So if your sitting on the fence trying to decide. Just try both setups and see for yourself and decide.

perfect well that made my mind up and I no once I take it off and try it ill garentee keep it off thanks for the quick response come spring hopefully get out with you guys and ride !!!

Hey buddy!! Good to see you back on a ATV. Thought you pretty much gave up on them after you got the bike. The trick with CVTech is all in picking the right spring to match your tires. Typically these clutches come with either a 1016 or 1017 spring which both have the same starting engagement but different finish rates. You normally see trail riders with 1016 and mud runners with 1017. If you feel the machine is bogged down and not enough punch. Then first try dropping the weight by either ordering lighter weights or drilling them out. You can always add washer or pennies if you take too much off. Also another sign of too much weight is when the machine is creeping while in gear or hard shifting. You don't need to drill or shift all 6 weights. You can change them in any combination of 2,3,4 and 6. Best advice I can give you is don't get discouraged. I know I did when I first got mine. Just keep fooling around with different combinations until you find what feels best to you. It's a great clutch, just needs to be tweaked to your liking. Good luck buddy!

It's definitely hard to find time between work, college, adulating, and toys to squeeze youtube in there, but I'm trying my best. I did end up ordering the cvtech and it'll be at my doorstep tomorrow night. I'm not worried about adjusting it, because to me it's all common sense. These clutches are super easy to understand, it's just the matter of finding what will work best for me. I ordered it for my 1000 XMR so it might even come set up pretty decent, but I'm surely excited to get it!!

Oh shit. I miss read your first question. I thought it read you already had the CVTech and had bad results. Sorry my bad. Yah for sure you will like it. First thing you will notice is the belt pinch. It grabs really well. Have fun with the new clutch and machine. I'll be watching out for it.

Good guys ehtv and nos crew. Gotta send him some flowers to say thanks. Lol.

500 MidSized Machine.. My Stock Primary slips out too soon on DownGrades in Low Range:((

I have the same primary clutch as you

Thanks Brian. Not sure how to send messages on youtube anymore. Maybe try me on Facebook. facebook.com/Frankies-Atv-Page-1027947943977969/

Frankie's Channel . Thanks Frankie. I sent you a PM on FB

When I first starting adjusting the clutch. I was having a difficult time reaching top speed and thought maybe it was the stroke limiter. Basically it limits the clutch from closing too far and reaching a higher gear where not to drive the belt past it's limits. You would need a hell of a lot hp to push the belt past it's limits. So I got rid of it. Secondly the backplate is used for harmonic balance and helps keep the engine turning at low idle. If you like mudding chances are you would be sitting idle stuck in the mud a lot and or deep water. This would help keep the engine idling and help prevent engine stall especially if your exhaust is underwater. Now you're probably wondering why the heck I would remove the backplate. lol.. Because I like fast trail riding and throttle response is much quicker and makes the machine much snappier. It won't make machine faster but getting on and off the throttle in and out of corners makes the machine quicker. I've tried putting it back just to be safe but for me it just feels to sluggish once I got used to no plate. My machine has never stalled without the plate but the risk is there. So if you do decide to try it and you find your machine doesn't idle well. Then leave it on. Hope this gives you a better understanding of the clutch.

Ok thanks Frankie! It's very much appreciated :-)

lol - I was going to tell him the same thing.

Tripods are for you old guys. lol

Bahahaha! or for smart guys - lol

Ya I won't argue with that. The older your are the smarter you get. But you start to forgot half the shit. lol.

LOL I got 3 tripods.