Awesome looking job on the brake lines TJ! You will get that elephant under control! 😃

Looking good John! A couple of things with your braking system. If you’re using a factory power brake pedal , you’ll need to change the ratio to 6-7:1 instead of the 3-4:1 the pedal originally had. This means that the push rod will need attached about an inch or so higher than where it originally mounted. To figure out the ratio you’ll need to measure from the center of the pivot point to the center of the pedal. Wilwood has this info on their website. Also the rear circuit of the master cylinder is for where you need the most braking power. In a drag car when the rear tires are wider than the front and you have a better contact patch for stopping with the rear tires. When you do it this way you won’t need a proportioning valve , the master cylinder should work well without it. Manual brakes get a bad wrap for working hard , this is from the ratios being off. My factory pedal had a brake switch bracket bolted to it. The hole for the bracket was exactly where I needed to attach the pushrod , but the hole was way to big. I welded the hole shut and redrilled the hole. Besides making a stop for out travel of your brake pedal , make sure the piston in the master cylinder bottoms out before it reaches the floor. Most master cylinders are designed with a safety that starts the last 20% of brake travel or so. If your pedal hits the floor before the pushrod bottoms out , you won’t have this feature…. every little bit helps if you have an issue. I hope this helps!

I use copper nickel alloy hardline for at least some of my lines, it is really the way to go. Much easier to double flare, bend etc than the steel. Much tougher than the copper only. Can even work with ABS, so it can handle all the pressure you ever make

Making great progress glad to see this car coming along

Car is really coming along and look forward to seeing it put in work… Tell Randy I said what’s up. 💯

What a Great and Nice Guy Turbo John is!!!!!!! May The Good Lord continue to Bless You Turbo John!!!💪💪💪

I run a similar master on my race cars. The part I use is for a 1982 D100 truck. Works great on 4 wheel disc for me.

I really enjoy your channel. I’m building my s10 inside a storage unit this winter, hopefully I can get it done

Got mine through aerospace when I got there 4 piston caliper brake set up. Looks just like that. Think it takes a certain bore dia and stroke to make the 4 piston calipers to work correctly. I have a 3500lb car 120+mph eight mile easily stops no problem.

I hope you have better luck with that master cylinder than I did. I tried running it on my drag truck. Got two bad ones right out of the box that leaked down internally, and could never get the caps to seal. Had brake fluid on top of the reservoir after every pass.

looks good John, may want to rethink the hard lines to the rear calipers, for when you need to pull the pumpkin out, flex line will be your friend

Nice work John. Honestly it’s good to see a normal guy with normal struggles just like me. I’m just modding my Hellcat but I’ve done a lot of things outside my comfort zone now to save money and even though somethings end up being done two or three times to get right, it feels good. I don’t know if I’ll ever get to build a more custom ‘built not bought’ Race car but I hope so before I get too old. 🤟🏻

I hope you are planning on running the line lock on the rear brakes hooked to your trans brake like you did your gold car. Because that car stages the very best I have ever seen a car stage with out going through the beams. For some reason when you told me about this trick it stuck in my mind. You first done it to stop the car from rolling out of the beams when you set the trans brake on a power glide with low pump pressure. I hope this message gets to you.

Waiting to go to chassis shop, you just reminded me I can plumb my brakes while I wait to drop it off.

Yeah, you have to think of all of those possibilities, however unlikely they may be. I'm sure that the keyboard safety patrol will keep you on task too!

TJ be careful with that Master..I ended up taping those caps on because I blew them off hard braking in my chevelle. Turned out thats a common issue so I swapped to the better wilwood master

With you moving the seat back , i'm surprised you didn't relocate the master cylinder to the floor . Great to see you making progress !

Can not wait to see it done and racing!!! Let's go

One more thing crossed off the list, Keep rockin brother, next thing you know that list will be very short.

Great content John. That is the same master cylinder I have had on my dart for 20 years at least. Your car will be a half second faster with that Mopar master cylinder. Lol

If you use measurements it's 9/16 back set on 1/4 inch tubing 👍🇺🇸

Nice job, anything worth doing takes time ! Can’t wait til this hot rod is ripping down the track!

Hey man, great content. Sent here from The Old Mans Garage (formally SRC Garage) . Just my 2cents. If you still seem to get a better pedal on 2nd pump. Might try bleeding that line too the brake the light switch. Could still have air trapped. Squishy, squishy. Hehehe rock on🤘

I bought the same stuff pretty much except i went with the galvanized steel over the copper

You can tell that You're trying to build on a budget and as long as You have the proper bubble \ flaring kit and practice You can have a safe and efficient braking system.

That nickel copper(monel) line is the way to go. It will never rust. McMaster Carr also offers monel grease fittings.

I have made a lot of brake lines and have put wrong fittings on too 😂 It is what it is 😎

Great video John don't give up you are all most there a couple more days you will have a lot to show for good job 👍

Man your videos are always so helpful. Thanks, i just ordered the copper brake lines. It must take a large pair to film yourself doing something you've never done before but you make it look easy even if you think that took too long!!!

We wrecked our S10 about 3 yrs ago at a street race. A guy redid the brake system on it and used a piece of all thread for the rod and used a spring to hold it in the master cylinder. Well....the spring fell out mid run and after the run my buddy had no brakes at all. Tore the truck up pretty bad. Needless to say I no longer let anyone work on the brakes on any of our cars.

Great tip on the pedal stop! Thanks for sharing!

U can make a adjustable brake master cylinder rod with a hemi joint gives u some adjustment to make sure u get ur pedal right

Hard work pays off. Great job

John generally I think you are awesome. A little suggestion to help both your subscribers and non-subscribed viewers find your uploads quickly. Pick one thumbnail format/font/border/color combination and stick with it. Maybe it is just me but I just realized I'd been looking past a couple of your uploads as I didn't recognise them... I guess it is what it is.. GL

Looks great this is definitely going to help me on mine 👍

Through the years of off-road racing I have found having parts from your tow rig match the parts on your racecar will save you quite a bit.

Hope to see you and randy out at KDS this year. Really enjoy racing with y’all

Next time on your master cylinder.......use a 84/85 Chrysler lebaron.....it's 24 mm bore.....and standard 3/16 fittings on both

Hey John Love the Channel I noticed that the pedal is hitting the brace make sure that all the back travel is out of the piston before its hitting or you will be leaving preasure on the cylinder.

Are you taking your car to paint and paper Hustle. I will donate materials if you use these boys. He's our man. I'll donate. Cause it will bring him a generous amount of subscribers. Give him the needed bump. We help our own. I totally support him.

You should have gotten a master with a smaller bore from a 1984-92 Dodge Mini Van the smaller bore has more pressure with manual brakes, larger bores have less pressure.

I had my custom rod for my Mopar master lock up in the bore on a pass, Now i have a adjustable rod . My life a lot easier. Are you not using a line lock ?

Cool to see more progress on the white car. Don't miss a episode. Love the channel. What is story on the M/C bore being bigger then inch ? I think a 7/8 bore would give you a softer peddle with standard brakes. What the reason they are using the larger bore? I need to get one myself.

John you might should have cut that section of metal on both sides where you can get extra cooling and accessibility to the engine and master cylinder. I would have put the master cylinder inside of the car.

Just a heads up, You have the brake lines on the master cylinder backwards. Port closest to the firewall is the primary piston which goes to the front brakes. Not sure how much of a difference it would make, just pointing it out.

I support you all the way

That brake setup looks good. What is the master cylinder off of? Thought about going manual brakes on my car but I don’t think they make a manual brake master cylinder

Looking good John

Nice work thumbs up great content

Looking good John 👍🤠

Doin the manual swap on our dirt race car was a pain!!! Trying to find a master to fit it was a mavrick i think

Are you putting a line lock on there or did I just miss something I've never ran a Proportioning valve so I was just wondering

Looked like when the pedal was against the stop it was pressing the master cylinder a little, might check it out a little closer so your brakes don’t drag👍🏻

Great work!!!

Isn’t the rear port from the master supposed to power the front brakes? If so isn’t the lines from the master to the valve backwards?

The nicop line is so soft it’s a pain to flare. If you aren’t dead on straight in the tool, they flare crooked, they also crack easily/over flare. Once you get the hang of it, it’s great to work with. Also curious if that wilwood pressure switch is in the actual fluid bath? If so, that braided line on it may make for some issues getting the whole system bled….or maybe it’s a good thing having a high point to get air out?

soo much involved to do it the right way... I would have to have a check list, I have CRS.. ( Can't Remember Shit)

Looks great bud.

also before you bolt everything up you should clean the firewall up and fix what you need to and paint all the exposed metal that is rusty

Ever think of hydro boost brakes ?

lookin great my man! you can see the try hard paying off

Buy the Eastwood brake line flare tool, best 150 dollars you will ever spend if you do any brake line work!!

Did you have to move the pedal back to reach it while sitting in it?

Did those fittings come with the master? For the outlet ports

That stop isfor your brake light switch!

Nice!

Making progress

you need to move the push rod to the upper hole

That is a power brake cyl. You need a 7/8 for manual.

Be running in no time!!!

I am sorry but I would not skimp a penny on the best brake set up running at the speeds you do why would you risk it but I also understand that save all you can when you have a limited budget good luck big dawg love the vids

Is the master cast iron or aluminum?

I'm going through that with the brake pedal rod right now I don't really know how to hold that thing in there.. & a stop dir.. my dumb ass... Solves that. Owe you a beer

😎

Gotta be a norkakalakian. 1/8 eench

No lock line?

I like Nickel Copper but here in sweden a Drag car won't pass tech if u have Nickel copper needs to be steel

I thought you where putting the master cylinder inside the car?

Master cylinder claims to be for a "88 Dodge B350 1 Ton Van"

The strange brakes drag terribly. I’m lost on what to do

That my copper is no good it will Break I know for a fact I put it on Customer’s cars and it will come back broken from vibration I think. I would bet that they’re going to outlaw that stuff not good for race cars and I have race cars I would not put that stuff on there