And at 5:25, how to properly test if a laser diode is working.

Do not look into beam with remaining eye.

Hmm... I was trying to wrap my brain around how will this "laser etching" work, since it's not actually vaporizing the copper. Then it dawned on me that he's basically etching away a small grove AROUND the traces, so after the chemical etching those traces will be free and and independent from the rest of the board... very cool! :)

:DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

Or drier than a semen stain on the bed sheet at a cheep "Motel 8".. tsk-tsk

literally all germans

Exactly, the guys German. Lol

Great working! By the way, please feel free to get back to us, if you will need Smart High Power High Voltage UV Lamp Ballasts, reference at www.uvballastsupplying.com. Thanks and have a good day! :- )

I would use something like this module and slice it to the laser power wires. www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-DC-Infinite-Cycle-Delay-Timing-Timer-Relay-ON-OFF-Switch-Loop-Module-Trigger/32820660645.html That way you could adjust the the delay time of the laser power to allow the arduino time to boot up.

same problem with my acan , first time was worried to see my wifes wooden desk with a big burn due at my disattention to power the device without usb plug connected to my pc... :-)

techmasterjoe thank you, I appreciate the heads up.

exact ....the burn on my wifes wooden desk has an oval shape :-)

you can mount something similar buying openbuils ACRO plate set, some aluminum profiles, nema motors, arduino uno / cnc shield / a4988 drivers and an aliexpress 2500mW laser for about half the price he paid.

Same question here. I tried Laser cut option, but I'm not sure it is ideal. Any update on this question?

@@moisesferber just use FlatCAM

make the traces wider on the pcb design

I think I figured it out. There's a setting in Laserweb for DPI; make sure this matches the DPI of the image you're importing. Here's my current workflow: 1. Plot SVG in KiCad (PCBNew), Negative + Mirrored 2. Open SVG in Inkscape a. File -> Export PNG b. Select "Drawing" c. Change the dpi to something large. This will produce a clearer image in Laserweb. d. Export 3. Open Laserweb a. Go to Settings -> File Settings b. Change "Bitmap DPI" to match what you set in 2.c. c. Go to Files, and add the PNG from 2.d to the documents. d. Select the image, click "Filters" (Like Marco does in the video to create the traces) e. You may have to hide the original PNG and resize/reposition the trace f. Generate gcode You may need to play around with the DPI to get a clear image in Laserweb, but that's how I got more desirable results. Hope this helps others in my situation.

I just used the Arduino IDE. Set the board to Arduino Nano, the processor to ATmega328P, and the programmer to AVR ISP. Connect with a USB cable, and upload.

The cheapest hardware store stuff

nevermind, it's 80 steps/mm.

Glad you got it figured out Bob. In case you or anyone else is interested in any of the settings from the stock firmware - Here's settings from an EleksMaker A3-Pro i just receieved: $0=10 (step pulse, usec) $1=25 (step idle delay, msec) $2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000) $3=0 (dir port invert mask:00000000) $4=0 (step enable invert, bool) $5=0 (limit pins invert, bool) $6=0 (probe pin invert, bool) $10=3 (status report mask:00000011) $11=0.010 (junction deviation, mm) $12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm) $13=0 (report inches, bool) $20=0 (soft limits, bool) $21=0 (hard limits, bool) $22=0 (homing cycle, bool) $23=0 (homing dir invert mask:00000000) $24=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min) $25=500.000 (homing seek, mm/min) $26=250 (homing debounce, msec) $27=1.000 (homing pull-off, mm) $100=80.000 (x, step/mm) $101=80.000 (y, step/mm) $102=80.000 (z, step/mm) $110=5000.000 (x max rate, mm/min) $111=5000.000 (y max rate, mm/min) $112=5000.000 (z max rate, mm/min) $120=200.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2) $121=200.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2) $122=200.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2) $130=5000.000 (x max travel, mm) $131=5000.000 (y max travel, mm) $132=5000.000 (z max travel, mm)

don't forget to enable laser mode ($32=1) so the machine doesn't stop on changing S value (spindle speed/laser power). If you're using LaserWeb you also want to set $10=2 to get correct position reporting.

It is up to the task permanently, as far as I can tell. I've been running it for half an hour at full power, for more than 10 minutes at lower power and for multiple hours as you can see in the introduction to the next episode. Never severely hot, although it might limit the life span of the laser somewhat, no way to be sure about that