EBI Is in fact one of the most crucial tube performance metrics. Equivalent Background Illumination (EBI) is the glow that you see when you put a cap on the objective so that no ambient light can reach the photocathode. In a tube with very low EBI (.1) when you cap the lens (with the training hole covered) you will see almost complete darkness. In a tube with an EBI of 1, when you cap the objective, there will be a bright, even green glow in the eyepiece. This glow is a masking glow that will wash out any detail that does not have sufficient signal strength (illumination) that will allow the tube to amplify it above the glow of the EBI. The EBI is a masking glow that will lower contrast and completely obscure detail when the signal level is extremely low. In very low light conditions, a tube with .1 EBI will produce an image that is extremely detailed with a .7 EBI tube is just showing vague shapes. In higher light situations EBI is not important unless it is very high (1.5 or greater maybe) but the more likely the tube is to be used in at threshold illumination levels, the more important having a low EBI becomes. I would never buy a $4000 device without knowing the EBI, and I would not own a tube that has to be used in extremely low light levels unless the EBI were in the .5 or lower range. I have owned 13 different night vision devices including two night vision binoculars, and in very low light situations, my lowest EBI tube (FOM 2000 with EBI of .1 and .2) have produced images when nothing else would. If you never observe in extremely low light situations (if your skies are semi-rural or brighter) then a low EBI may not be of any benefit to you, but if you are out in a rural area under a no-moon sky, a .5 EBI tube is going to run circles around a 1.5 EBI tube.

Bruv, I just watched you shake the hell out of this set of binos for ten minutes 😂

Should do a vid on how you train when it comes to prep to go to the range, necessities, what you take, what you work on etc.

And here is an excellent video that lets the viewer visual EBI. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oeCGgNqr1MDbf4U.html The first tube is an early Gen 3 aviation tube with a very low EBI (and an SN of maybe 21). Note that when the first video through the tube is show, the screen looks almost black when the objective lens is capped (with the training hole covered). When the illumination is increased, you can see the outline of the Pistol and ascertain some level of detail. The rear sight hump and the extension of the grip safety is clearly outlined. As the illumination is increased the finer detail emerges. The second tube is a later Omni VI aviation tube with an SN of 28, but the EBI is higher. In the first image from that tube, with the objective lens covered, you can see that the eyepiece is showing a very uniform green glow. This is the glow of high EBI. When the illumination is at the threshold, the pistol in the image is far more washed out and even the outline is not nearly as crisp and clear as the lower EBI tube. This is what EBI does, it imparts a uniform glow across the eyepiece, when the objective is completely covered and unless there is enough illumination in the environment to bring image above the brightness of the EBI, it will be difficult to see any detail. What this means is that if you go into really dark environments, even much lower SN tube with a very low EBI can still be showing an image when a tube with a much higher SN but a high EBI can't show an image. I would never personally want a tube with an EBI of higher than 1, and frankly, for me two want to own it, the EBI will have to be much lower than this. My best low light binocular only has FOM of 2000, but the EBI is .1 and .2, and in low light, either tube will easily outperform my 2600 FOM 37 SN tube that has EBI of .7. When you are gong to be in very dark conditions, a low EBI is vital to being able to see well.

Best video on night vision yet. Subscribing! Keep em coming!

Make a video on your kit, what you run/why you run it!🤙🏴

Great video, hope for more night vision content :)

I wanted to see a actual spec sheet and break each column and explain each column and say what is exceptional and what isn't

Can you make a video discussing the damage that can be done to nvgs when exposed to bright light?

I heard u can actually see the algorithm while wearing gen 4's 👀 🤷🏼‍♂️

thank you so much!

Carbine/handgun setup would be interesting

You should do a video on night vision focus. Pros and cons of using the caps on the front. Why is one hole cut bigger than the other?

saving up for l3 harris 1531

Anyone know what the small holes on the caps do? I’ve seen some team guys running the same thing. I know nothing about night vision. I’m just getting into the research.

What’s better manual or auto gain?

Im looking at AGM gen 3....what does the 3AW1 and 3NL1 mean...noob over here needing some adivice

Great info. If you could go back would you still purchase the pvs15 unit or would you go with something different.

Video on every piece of AOR1 you have when?

What the heck is “FOM”?

Nice video. What is that cool battery holder?

I don’t think your explanation of EBI is correct, first off good video man I enjoyed it. SNR is what effects your tubes at how dark it can be while producing an image. Static will block your image before EBI. Kinda, if you have high EBI it’s like a fog that covers your view in dark conditions. One of sets of NVGs has 37.3 SNR and .04 EBI the other tube has 37.6 but 1.5 EBI. And in black conditions one tube has a grey fog with some static and the other is super clear with some static. EBI doesn’t contribute anything to being able to see in the dark. It’s more of a cause and reaction; the better your tubes perform the higher the EBI can be. Now gems can have high specs with low fom. EBI is the photocathode literally producing its own electrons. Which in super dark conditions if your tube is making more photons than it’s receiving it can “mask” the image. EBI isn’t intensional, EBI should be the last spec your worried about. In my experience anything lower than. 1.2 isn’t going to be noticeable and for field use in combat 2.5 is the most allowed even on aviation tubes cause it doesn’t effect the tubes that much. If your pumping out 40 SNR with 72 LP or higher and say have 2.5 EBI, the tubes are so powerful even in the darkest conditions you won’t notice the EBI. The higher the SNR the harder it is for EBI to mask the image. At 40 SNR your tubes are pumping out and converting electrons so effectively, even if there is only a few photons floating around in the air your tubes are going to be able to multiply those photons 10s of millions of times and the glow from the photocathode (EBI) will be over powered by the conversion power of your MCP. I don’t know how well I’m explaining this but I hope everyone gets the point. This whole myth EBI is the most important spec is causing peiple to skip on some seriously powerful rare tubes. I’ve heard of guys skipping on 3100 fom tubes with no black spots because the EBI was 1.8 or something.. 3100 fom is insanely rare and those fuckibg tubes would be powerful enough to produce an image inside of a damn sewer. My tubes with 2700 plus fom can produce images in crazy places like my basement and compared to a couple other sets of tubes I have in thin filmed they can produce images in places the thin filmed are black. I could only imagine the power at 3100 fom.... that’s 42 SNR if the LP is 72

I own everything Tactical/survival even an electric all wheel motor bicycle! Have a dedicated NV scope for a rifle but I don’t own NV goggles? I see arguments for single tube or binocular? What do you say? I don’t know where to start? Thanks, TJ

This would be a much nicer video feed learn to hold your hand still

"fixed gain" WRONG. its auto gain. The tubes will auto gain the brightness. SMH never trust a guy talking about NV stuff who has a PVS-15

Watching your hand shake around while you talk gives me motion sickness.

for f*s sake stop shaking them all over the place

Man a lot of your info is incorrect or phrased poorly. It’s pronounced “sent till la shun”