how do you deal with low light situations? i am experiencing some issues with that

Have you updated to 2.1? I tend to shoot with lights on and just dial in my ambient to produce a black image. Adjust my light power from there. You don’t have to be in the dark to produce a dark image (if you’re using strobes/flashes, sorry if that is pointing out something you already know) I do find the Eye AF not great in low light, so I just switch to single point AF.

@@Smiithrz not yet, gonna load the upgrade, thanks!

This will be my next S lens. The amazing reduction in colour fringing over the F-mount lenses is the real advance imo.

@@Smiithrz 2.1? Did I miss one, the last one I updated to was 2.01. But YES, anyone still on 1.01, stop, do the update and low light AF NOW, particularly AF-S is a very big improvement. So it the change to eye-AF and changing the behavior when lock is lost, instead of jumping to the background as it did in 1.00, now it has the Nearest Object Priority like the D850. Turning on Low Light AF in AF-S and pinpoint it is amazing how dark a scene can be and still lock without hunting, -6ev. That is better than the D850! There are rumors of a new AF update soon but I am not sure I need much improvement.

Thank you so much for the support Terry. I totally hear you. The Z actually revived my love for photography

So glad to have you here man!

So glad to have you on the channel Conor. Any questions you have for me don’t hesitate

Great to have you on the channel David!

Thanks very much for the support of the channel my friend and I’m glad this was useful!

Thank you so much my friend

Thank you so much my friend

Great to hear from you Rich! Would love to see your work

Give it a little more time and you’ll be a believer. Great to hear from you Mark!

Extremely exciting !!

one of my friends has the sony A9/G master 24-70 lens..i gave him some of my Z6 raw files after our even shoot so he can edit some of it. he called me and said on his honest opinion my nikon images are so pleasing,color and dynamic range..

I have a lot of fast well respected lenses from 50 to 135 and these S lenses put them in the dirt. They are still great lenses but the difference is visible without pixel peeping. No lenses at this FL is as sharp corner to corner. The OTUS has a great look but if you need something pin sharp away from the very center there is nothing else that has that resolving power from 3/4 and out. The Sigma 50 and 85 1.64 Art comes close in the center but weakens out of the center. The Nikkor 85 1.4G another well-regarded portrait lens look pretty pedestrian in CA, ultimate center sharpness and corners. In cost/performance ratio the 85 1.8G is better than the 1.4G but colors and contrast are not quite a good as the 1.4G. I am saving for the 70-200 2.8 S and depending on price my Z lens kit is pretty much completed.The 24-70 2.8 S is a little better than the f4 version but the f/4 is still better than either the 2.8G or E versions so I am expecting another absolute winner.

@@stanspb763 The Sony 135 GM in particular is epically gorgeous, I can't fault it at all. Same thing with the 24 1.4 GM. But there is yet to be a 35, 50, or 85 GM as sharp as these Nikon Z's. The new Sony 35 1.8 G is great, and has amazing sharpness, but the bokeh isn't as buttery smooth. It's that gigantic Z mount that is the magic behind the bokeh and sharpness. Never have both factors come together like this. (Just ask a Sigma Art lens critic, they'll tell you!) Nikon listened to all the portrait shooters who lamented their decision to keep the F-mount instead of update to a bigger AF mount, (like Canon did; FD to EF) ...and they (Nikon) have the last laugh now in terms of bokeh. The 1.2's that they have planned will likely be insane. Canon's RF glass is gorgeous too, though, since the RF mount was already big in its EF form. It's Sony's FE mount that will limit their corner performance and bokeh quality now. (Don't worry, Sony has nothing to worry about in terms of central image sharpness and bokeh. This Nikon Z stuff is just a whole new level of amazing.)

Great to have you here buddy!

Same here!!

Why you like it more than the 1.4?

@@ronald7482 My personal view is that the S lens handles a wider range of light incident angle better, so shooting into light sources is handled with ease and no fringing or CA. The S is sharp corner to corner, while all the F mount primes fall off on FF in the corners. It is lighter and faster focusing. For video, it is almost silent in AF but noisier than other S lenses. Both are great in the center, and both have different out of focus rendering so compare to see which you like better. I seldom use my 1.4G unless using the D850 as second camera on a shoot. The S version has a look to it that just works with so much general photography as well as portraiture that it stays on my Z6 most of the time. My second most used lens is the 24-70 f/4, even on commercial shoots. I have the S 2.8 version also but the f/4 version is so good that it gets first call so my bag can be lighter and smaller. Seriously, a f/4 kit lens that puts the G and E 24-70 2.8 F mount lenses to shame. I recommend everyone have that lens as the base travel, walking around lens. And the 2.8 S is even better but no one can see the advantages without pixel peeping at 300% in very tightly controlled conditions with side by side comparisons....on a Z7

Excellent! Let me know how it goes!

Great to have you here Christopher!

Can’t wait for that 24 🔥

So true man! And yes I will definitely be purchasing 1.2’s and they arrive. It’s hard to say at this point because the 50 is so special and I really love how dynamic the focal length is, but right now I’d say the 85 is my favorite. Ask me in a month though!

So glad they are helping my friend

Really appreciate the support brother!

Amazing man. Thank you so much and I’m very glad this helped!

Thanks for watching Pierre!

😂😂😂 I hear you brother

Glued to mine as well brother!

as soon as he said that I instantly went and tested it and that is a game changer right there ha ha

Yessir!! It’s a huge plus!!

@@jamesp7271 for real! That's too good haha! I still can't believe it 😂

@@DolisterCovers It doesn't appear to work in video though, which would have been sweet. I still think you need a ninja v for this for video though.

@@jamesp7271 yeah, that hurts cuz I do mainly video but I normally manual focus for video anyways. I think the Z6 only shows focus peaking before you hit record. Focus peaking, as far as I know, won't show focus peaking while recording.

Thanks for watching Ken and yea! That peaking trick is huge!

Thanks for watching Marc!

Hey Pete, how is the bokeh open wide comparing to the 105 g?

It's better.

I seldom use my 85 1.4 G or ART 1.4 Sigma. Both very good lenses but the S lenses are more predictable in various light conditions and direction, it is sharper wide open because if the lack of CA but portraits and weddings are not about sharpness. Try shooting into a sense or quartering light and you will be happy you brought the S lens or in any shot that requires high res across the frame where it trounces a 1.4G. For changing conditions, you would be safer in an event or commercial shoot to have a more predictable results and better tamed internal reflections. In SOME light in SOME conditions the dreamy sleepy look is very pleasant but in more lighting and more contrast extremes, and where the full-frame is used, no question, the 85 1.8 S is the one to use. In low light the S lens on a Z body is much nicer to compose on without modeling lights.

Absolutely will do a video on this my man!

The Monochrome Memoirs awesome! Thank you!

No doubt!

i think 50mm length can be covered with kit lens 24-70.. but 85mm cannot be covered... so go for 85mm 1.8..

Take it with FTZ, great thing ... after a DSLR, autofocus is a fairy tale, no backing and front, always accurate and clear, I threw out the DSLR, but left all the optics, and now it works fine on Z 6

You certainly would be happy with either but if you shoot in tighter areas I’d go with the 50. The 50s is really an excellent portrait lens

Always appreciate your support my man 👊🏻👊🏻

Thanks for watching!

100% agree

85f1.8g is a great lens, with a capable body it focuses very fast for any portraits needs, CA is not an issue, neither is corner sharpness. So in what regards, 85S worth more than double the price for still purpose? Assume that you have got FTZ handy and 85f1.8g already. Unlike previous 35f1.8g and 50f1.8g, totally different league. I can't say the same to 24s and 85s

But old afs24f1.8g is at double price of 85f1.8g. From a money perspective, 85s has the least value compared to equivalent as G counterparts.

@@frankluo230 I had the ftz and the 85mm 1.8G. I prefer using anything that doesn't use the FTZ adapter at this point, but the 85mm 1.8G had plenty of CA at 1.8 and color fringing from my uses with it. That is no longer the case with the S lens and the bokeh falloff is much better also that gives your images a much better look. You don't have to get the 85mm S if you don't mind using the FTZ adapter it was a phenomenal lens that served me well for years. The price hike is for better edge to edge sharpness with no noticeable CA or fringing, faster and more quiet auto focus, 9 aperture blades instead of 7 gives you better background fallout and smoother bokeh at double the price. I sold my 85mm G to help justify the purchase. In retrospect I could have kept my G and grabbed the 35mm S or the 24mm S though. 🤷‍♂️

@@frankluo230 There is nothing wrong at all with the 85 1.8g at all I still use it all the time, the small problems I have with it are, it is noisy and can be a problem if using the internal mic for video and also the focusing is not as fast as the S line up. I have the adapter but in the field it becomes a slight problem when changing lenses. But you are right these are not huge deal breakers for me at the moment but when I can afford the upgrade I will. I can sell the 85g for like 400cad and thst knocks a good chunk of change off the 85 s.

Yes, focus is by wire so the focus ring has no fixed relationship between focal length and ring position. For manual focus with stills and focus peaking it works great but if using a mechanical focus puller drive it does not work well. It would be possible however to create a focus based pull simulator by setting focus points of specific targets and go from one to the next by wire that actually opens a lot of options for electronic control of focus mapping. All by Bluetooth, with as many settling points as desired for a planned scene....hummm, maybe I need to invent that;>)

Hey Ash great to have you on the channel! I would recommend the 35s. That’s what I use exclusively for all my YT videos and it’s amazing

Hi Willem! No I don’t. Only primes

The Monochrome Memoirs tx for coming back to me. You say you carry two body’s. So 35mm on one and what on the other one? 50 or 85 which one would you take?

Willem Loock 35 / 85mm is the perfect combo!

Hey my man, I will most likely keep purchasing S lenses as they are released and figure out which ones I like best. I’d prob assume the 1.4s will be better than the 1.8s when it’s released but right now the 1.8s is the right choice for the Z bodies. Hope this helps!

@@TheMonochromeMemoirs Good Good, thanks.

No doubt!

Same! It bothered me so freaking much until I got the meike grip

Primes are addictive, and you get used to the FL and what to expect so shooting all one FL all day really helps consistency in a style. That and the faster aperture. The S zooms are good enough optically to handle the job, they really are good, but the faster aperture has a lot going for it. I recommend people who ask how to develop their style so their portfolio has a theme, to shoot a month with a prime, any prime that fits their style and they will develop a lot faster than with zooms.

No problem my friend. I have been testing ver 2.2 and haven’t noticed an improvement in AF

@@TheMonochromeMemoirs Thanks so much for your reply subscribed 💯

This is an older question not answered so I will make a comment. The S glass has almost zero CA/color fringing at any aperture while the fast F mount primes have noticeable amounts and are less sharp in the corners than S glass(any FL). That said, the 105 1.4 G is s monster for out of focus rendering, and if you are shooting subjects and scenes that can benefit from it, its pretty amazing. With all the F mount lenses color outlines on edges when shooting into light sources so sunset shots or candlelit portraits with the candle in the frame will not be as clean of artifacts as the S primes or even the S zooms. If you have a 105, and FTZ, by all means, use and enjoy it because it is a special lens with fantastic out of focus rendering. List most with large heavy elements it is not a sports lens or fast near field birds-in-flight due to needing to move that much glass but for everything else it is a jewel. I do not have one but wish I did for some of my portrait work. I have used them often however on loans or rental. Now I mostly use the 85 1.8 S which is light and a good match in weight/balance with the Z bodies. ....and sharper with zero CA. The sharpness wide open extends to the very corners. Except for special reproduction camera lenses, that is just unheard of with fast primes before.

Hey Glenn thanks for the support! I would say that the 35 is essentially the most used because it can pretty much do anything, I’d say the 50 second and 85 3rd. All of them deserve to be in a Z holders bag though!

Thanks I appreciate your time and input

I have the 85 1.4 ART. It is about as sharp in the center as the S but it falls off pretty quickly when moving away from the very center, which the S holds up remarkably in the corners. Shooting into lights wide one is a mess of CA on the Sigma and Nikkor. For center subject portraiture it would be hard to pick which is better, both are that good. The S lens really has tamed CA, color fringing wide open just is not seen even with backlight.

The 58 has some unique rendering features but in overall sharpness, color, corner performance, and lack of CA/color fringing the 85 and 50 1.8 S are certainly better. The 58 has a look that fits some people's style but the S lenses are more predictable in unusual lighting and seems to fit more types of imaging. One really has to try them to see what were are talking about. It is hard to explain other than there is great balance in traits that applies to almost anything. I have a large collection of Nikkor fast primes and 2.8 zooms and they just don't make it into my bag nowadays. I have run into very few scenes where the 24-70 S zoom and the 85 or 50 S 1.8 did not deliver what I was trying to get. I never realized the heavy Nikkors had shortcomings only seen when compared to the S glass. I was very happy with my 85 1.4G and Sigma ART 85 and 50. What could be improved? Well, seeing that corners are not required to be soft wide open or that detail/color was limited by CA wide open and shooting into the sun or quartering light was possible. Ask those who have full kits of both, and see what they actually use now. Sharpness is overrated as a criteria but artifacts we all just got used to when they are absent becomes noticeable. I am not referring to 300% magnification pixel peeping, but visible at print viewing distance. There is also way too much emphasis on technical traits and not the content and perspective when seeing a neutral lens's result you sense it. A lot of scenes in the past were avoided, such as shooting into evening sun or very high contrast scenes in the past but now there is less thinking about what to avoid and more attention on composition. These S lenses are like opening a box of photographic freedom.The industry largest flange and shortest flange distance has a lot to with it.

Stan SPb many thanks for the detailed thoughts and explanations 👍🏼

Yep! I always carry more batteries then I would ever use!

I also think that many D750 users will (or already did) switch to Z6 which is using the same battery so spare batteries aren't an issue. Great video, thank you for putting it together!

I was able to squeeze 2000 pics in one battery.

@@hatelies816 There are a lot of variables in battery life. For example, the wi-fi or Bluetooth are battery hogs. Turning off the auto preview on the rear monitor saves a lot, and the drain from adapted lenses is higher due to constant motor action.. As an experiment in shooting an event only with EVF and no connectivity connected, I had 1500 shots before I changed batteries wth 25% indicated remaining. But I like the added convenience of the monitor and wi-fi transfers so swap batteries at about 700 with 20% left. I have 4 spare batteries from my D850 and D800 so I do not worry about battery life. Another point that is not talked about much is the fact that unless you are a spray and pray shooter, you will shot less and get more keepers with a Z6. No need for bracketing or safety shots, with XQD the files, are safe and with the excellent 100% frame EVF, the shot is framed and exposed well every time so why take 15 throwaway shots? When doing a studio fashion or publicity season, the most I have even taken has been 524 shots of several models, a dozen style, and dress changes each. Typical for such a session for DSLR shooters would have been 1--2 thousand. I have done 23-hour wedding shoots, (early morning bride and groom homes, family, 30-minute ceremony in the wedding palace, 8-12 hours of free form travel around the city placing flowers on historic monuments, bridges etc, with up to 300 guests tagging along, a riverboat cruise/party then a reception and party until 3-4 am......all that with only 30 minutes rehearsing. Covering all that in less than 1000 shots is possible with more keepers than with a DSLR which would need 3-4,000 frames. So batteries are not really the issue some assume. The going rate here is about $500 including the book. But two a week is enough to live an upper-middle-class life from August to April with no weddings or other income. There are real advantages in lower stress and more fun and security in countries with low cost of living. To live back home in the US with the social and cultural activities that are the norm here, would have cost me $20,000 a month after taxes. So the low stress and low conflict environment with far more access to culture and the arts, and recreation than back home in the US certainly has advantages for quality of life.

The 50 is good but not as good as the 85 for sure!

Hey bud! I think sigma lenses would absolutely excellent with the Z’s but I still would invest in the S lenses. The way I look at it is that the S lenses are an investment in the future and will give you the best performance from your Z camera. Hope this helps!

@@TheMonochromeMemoirs well I watched your video like 3 times with the sigma lenses and the 85mm f1.8S lens. And I weighed your pros on the new 85mm and thought about it. All said and done my new 85mm f1.8S will be here tomorrow morning and your right. Start investing into the future of Nikon lenses. The reason I asked you was I still have my Nikon D800 and I love that camera but I only been using it for nature shots, large family pictures, and it's my backup camera for weddings and in case something happens to my z6. So I still like having f-mount lenses but I need to either pick up another z6 or get a z7 for larger prints I like to do. But thanks for taking the time to reply back and giving me your opinion. I wish sigma and Tamron would start making some Z-mount lenses. God bless.

So you still think on image quality the sigma is better? Or put it differently with all the 85mm and you had to only keep one what would you pick?

Always good to hear from you Chris!!

That’s a TOUGH ONE. Tbh I’d prob go with the 85 though

The Monochrome Memoirs Thanks! I was leaning toward the 24 but dang that 85 is looking sweet!

I think your answer will be in if you're playing to shoot portraits or street and landscape photography. I hear the 24mm is on the level of the 50mm 1.8S in terms of sharpness. If you're planning on street photography the choice is obviously the 24mm.

I’d go the 24 because I shoot landscape. Obviously if I shot portraits I’d go the 85.