Nina Caprez: To Bolt Or Not To Be

  Рет қаралды 162,081

Arc'teryx

Arc'teryx

6 жыл бұрын

Climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock is like learning over 100 choreographed moves of a difficult dance. Nina Caprez shares her story of working her way up all 40 meters of perfectly smooth, vertical wall.

Пікірлер: 90
@Leander_
@Leander_ 4 жыл бұрын
Shout-out to Mathieu and Julien, the editing and cinematography was great: playful where it needed to be, yet respectful and focused on the climbing where it counted.
@loganhugmeyer2756
@loganhugmeyer2756 6 жыл бұрын
Probably my favorite climber. Great skill, determination, and attitude.
@HeiLong24
@HeiLong24 6 жыл бұрын
I don't think I've ever seen a front-flag like that (8:00). Absolutely beautiful technique!
@yannponty
@yannponty 6 жыл бұрын
You must be young... :) (also Shauna Coxsey has been using it quite a bit in WC bouldering)
@HeiLong24
@HeiLong24 6 жыл бұрын
yessir / maim :)
@rfcdgaf
@rfcdgaf 6 жыл бұрын
Is a standard climbing technique lol...
@michaelna6795
@michaelna6795 5 жыл бұрын
that was THE move. I had to watch that like 5 times to even understand the movement. Incredible!!!
@constantinosschinas4503
@constantinosschinas4503 Жыл бұрын
This is what i call my last chance before falling technique. Not sure if it was necessary or, even, better in this case.
@marinakyriacou6525
@marinakyriacou6525 6 жыл бұрын
Absolutely brilliant! Such amazing technique! Great climb!
@verticalnetwork1
@verticalnetwork1 6 жыл бұрын
Nina has a really great technique and climbing skill! Great inspiration!
@Freddieready
@Freddieready 6 жыл бұрын
We miss your videos they are always different, fun and inspiring to watch. Hope in 2018 we can see more challenging projects.
@pauborratrivera7251
@pauborratrivera7251 6 жыл бұрын
beautiful! My favourite climber and style, both in one video! Congrats Nina
@Goofygreyhoundgoober
@Goofygreyhoundgoober 4 жыл бұрын
Dream route. Amazing climbing and great edit!
@JasonHalladay
@JasonHalladay 6 жыл бұрын
Very well done (the send and the video!) The music and tight editing really make it something special.
@sethgilbertson2474
@sethgilbertson2474 6 жыл бұрын
Nina is one of the best climbers out there!
@v.n.2039
@v.n.2039 5 жыл бұрын
Even though I don't climb, I really like to watch these videos with Nina... 👍🏻💪👍🏻💪👍🏻💪
@MP-Fin
@MP-Fin 6 жыл бұрын
Very nice and inspirational video. Thanks a lot for sharing. Best wishes from Finland.
@TheWsguy
@TheWsguy 5 жыл бұрын
One of the best climbing videos I’ve ever seen!! Love it or hate it, technical face climbing is a huuuuge test of skill and patience. It really is a dance!! Sick send!!
@Mathieu-Rivoire-ILLUSTROSCOPE
@Mathieu-Rivoire-ILLUSTROSCOPE 5 жыл бұрын
Thanks! You can also watch "Orbayu", our other video with Nina...
@RafaFlores
@RafaFlores 6 жыл бұрын
I love how not being the spectacular and physical style of the most famous lines this is more beautiful as you see the grade of technique and precision needed
@MrUsername121211
@MrUsername121211 6 жыл бұрын
Really cool!!
@Ponem
@Ponem 6 жыл бұрын
Great video, great climbing.
@PrecisionRifleGroup
@PrecisionRifleGroup 6 жыл бұрын
Well done!!
@zirbengeist5317
@zirbengeist5317 6 жыл бұрын
Great video
@oktawiangornik1284
@oktawiangornik1284 Жыл бұрын
I love the Arcteryx films and stories of people they present.
@davehause8571
@davehause8571 6 жыл бұрын
That move at 7:59 !!! so good.
@shafwong1159
@shafwong1159 2 жыл бұрын
I’m hooked
@realblackbetty2204
@realblackbetty2204 6 жыл бұрын
Nothing better than getting arcteryx on Christmas morning 😇. Merry Christmas and thanks for making amazing products.
@kevedwards
@kevedwards 6 жыл бұрын
Beautiful climbing and such commitment climbing in the snow, inspires me to stop being a wimp and brave some colder conditions 😂
@benjaminmurat663
@benjaminmurat663 6 жыл бұрын
Magic la vidéo.
@David-go4ot
@David-go4ot 6 жыл бұрын
6:02 really liked the editing there
@iainrenton7527
@iainrenton7527 6 жыл бұрын
Great climb; I can see the work and training that went into that climb. OK not all the footage was from your successful accent - but I've never seen a climbing video where that was the case. I liked seeing that you had to work on it; it was outside your comfort zone; but you got there in the end. Iain
@chumdm3
@chumdm3 Жыл бұрын
Best footwork I’ve ever seen.
@daaryl74
@daaryl74 5 жыл бұрын
Quelle élégance ! C'est bien plus intéressant à regarder (et à grimper j'imagine) que ces grandes caves déversantes modernes où les mouvements se font par à-coups ! "L'intérêt de la grimpe c'est pas uniquement passer" disait Edlinger.
@maineoutdoorsman677
@maineoutdoorsman677 2 жыл бұрын
Iam watching this an it just made my hole day so much better ,iam asking myself if I want to hike a trail of watch more climbing videos,um choices See those 3 swallow nests under that ledge ,cool
@chiaraminetti8721
@chiaraminetti8721 3 жыл бұрын
Nina sempre fantastica
@ExpertS555
@ExpertS555 4 жыл бұрын
Молодец!!!
@phutton88
@phutton88 6 жыл бұрын
Way to go! I tried 5.13 there and got shut DOWN!
@platter1000
@platter1000 6 жыл бұрын
NICE
@pablomarani3799
@pablomarani3799 6 жыл бұрын
Delicate and beautiful!
@stacky512a
@stacky512a 5 жыл бұрын
well done video
@Mathieu-Rivoire-ILLUSTROSCOPE
@Mathieu-Rivoire-ILLUSTROSCOPE 5 жыл бұрын
Thank you! If you liked it, you can watch "Orbayu" our other video with Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat.
@marcchrys
@marcchrys Жыл бұрын
Blimey, I think if I managed to get to the top of that route, I'd stay there for a bit, savouring it, rather than just lowering straight back down!
@BARBATHOS666
@BARBATHOS666 5 жыл бұрын
Nina sos hermosaaaaaaaaaaaaa😊 saludos desde Colombia
@donttreadonme9132
@donttreadonme9132 5 жыл бұрын
I don’t watch a lot of women sport climbing but I enjoyed this one. Alex Puccio is usually my go to female climber
@faraz2498
@faraz2498 6 жыл бұрын
My crimps look like jugs after watching that
@Iszil
@Iszil 6 жыл бұрын
That's one beautiful slab! Are there more routes like this one in that crag in the 7+ range? Would love to try some.
@ninacaprez
@ninacaprez 6 жыл бұрын
yes there are, you should go, it's a rad place
@Iszil
@Iszil 6 жыл бұрын
Whenever I go to the USA this will definitely will be on my checklist. Thanks for the reply! And rad send, by the way! Beautiful technique.
@averissimo
@averissimo 6 жыл бұрын
A dream line!! with one of the best intros I've seen in a climbing movie. Very unfortunate that there is little (or zero) footage from the actual send. (I'm guessing only the few seconds with the fix line is from the send)
@ninacaprez
@ninacaprez 6 жыл бұрын
all the images where I'm wearing a red pullover are from the actual send
@richm1981
@richm1981 6 жыл бұрын
What is that music at 7:00 ? Nina seems to have all the great soundtracks in her Videos :D
@jonaseckhoff7176
@jonaseckhoff7176 4 жыл бұрын
searching as well
@c0rdita
@c0rdita 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I would also love to know!
@jamesdylangoldstein
@jamesdylangoldstein 6 жыл бұрын
This was amazing! But to whoever made this amazing video, isn't it possible to upload 4K so I can watch this in full glory?!
@brunogens
@brunogens 2 жыл бұрын
Definitely, Arc'teryx movies are something else ... (congrats to Nina by the way :))
@kobenoyashi531
@kobenoyashi531 6 жыл бұрын
What happens when someone finishes a route like this? Do they just rappel down and leave the quick-draws? Are those quick-draws just left on the route permanently?
@jasmic1995
@jasmic1995 6 жыл бұрын
kobenoyashi No you recollect them and someone put them in place beforehand
@brianmorin5547
@brianmorin5547 6 жыл бұрын
How all climbing videos should be
@dangerouswater
@dangerouswater 3 жыл бұрын
7:58 those 3 nests in the right corner. Definitely not a "high traffic area"!!
@blackhawk0606
@blackhawk0606 6 жыл бұрын
what's the purpose of the sanding paper at 5:47?
@Iszil
@Iszil 6 жыл бұрын
Sanding off the excess of a callus.
@ninacaprez
@ninacaprez 6 жыл бұрын
While crimping hard in cold temps, the skin on your joints could split off and then you would bleed. To avoid that, you sandpaper off the hard and dead skin at that spot. But anyways, it's a pain in the ass somehow...;-)
@blackhawk0606
@blackhawk0606 6 жыл бұрын
Ok merci de ta réponse Nina! Peut-être qu'un jour j'aurai la chance de me poncer les doigts !
@picasadeluxe
@picasadeluxe 5 жыл бұрын
Can someone in the world climb this route onsight or red point without yet fixed gear ? I don´t believe that! Fantastic workout!
@jrblackify
@jrblackify 5 жыл бұрын
Ondra didn't onsight it, so I think it's unlikely anyone else can right now.
@MrSilencetreatment
@MrSilencetreatment 4 жыл бұрын
Most scary bit of the route at 7:27. The three wasp hives pointing at your face on the RHS top corner. That is why zero degrees is the best temperature for the route. No way you are climbing there on warm wheather. Jees!!!!!!
@markstevenson6635
@markstevenson6635 10 ай бұрын
Those are cliff swallow nests
@MrSilencetreatment
@MrSilencetreatment 10 ай бұрын
@@markstevenson6635 yes you are right.
@AlanAllegret
@AlanAllegret 6 жыл бұрын
Are those wasps nests at 7:45?
@alexfletcher5863
@alexfletcher5863 6 жыл бұрын
I think they are birds nests. the holes are pretty big.
@TheDuroProject
@TheDuroProject 3 жыл бұрын
And who put the slings?
@jameysellew393
@jameysellew393 6 жыл бұрын
Two different shoes at 7:32 and at 7:40? Vapor vs from below and vapor laces from above. I understand the necessity of a story line and different angles in order to make it a good film, but just some slightly uncut footage of the actual send would be rad. It feels more like a big company production when the purity of the amazing line is lost. Regardless, sick send!!!
@ninacaprez
@ninacaprez 6 жыл бұрын
The day when it was snowing I sent, I had to give two burns. So on the first try (red pullover) I was wearing a vapor and on my secont burn (also in the red pullover) I had to wear another pair of shoes because you need such a stiff shoe for that route, that after one go you have to change shoe. That was hard to deal with.... So I've been filmed live on my first go where I had two falls (on a static rope) and then on the actual send from the bottom. So we used that two angles to edit the actual send. If you^re not happy with that, so then sorry...
@jameysellew393
@jameysellew393 6 жыл бұрын
I really appreciate the answer! I honestly hadn't thought of that and knowing that the climb was that dependent on little things makes it that much more cool. I'll keep that in mind when watching other climbing videos because that makes it that much more awe inspiring. - Love from the States
@Iszil
@Iszil 6 жыл бұрын
It's a short movie, not video proof of a sent. It's understood (and accepted within the community) that you have to "mount" a film based on different shots and the director's taste. Think of it more like an artistic approach instead of factual.
@jrblackify
@jrblackify 5 жыл бұрын
@@Iszil I think in general it would be nice to have a statement at the end clarifying this. On all films, not just this one (because almost all films have reenactments, splices from failed attempts, etc). Honnold's Free Solo film is a rare exception.
@shafwong1159
@shafwong1159 2 жыл бұрын
@@jrblackify 😂 no take 2
@MrKEErickson
@MrKEErickson 6 жыл бұрын
Was he wearing belay glasses?
@ninacaprez
@ninacaprez 6 жыл бұрын
yes
@osmanyenisen7082
@osmanyenisen7082 Жыл бұрын
🏇🇹🇷💯
@senasplage
@senasplage 6 жыл бұрын
Bravo Nina ! Inspiring and always smiling ! @senasplage on instagram
@ralfblumenschein
@ralfblumenschein 5 жыл бұрын
Are there birds nests at the right of the route at 8:02 ? In Germany climbing would be forbidden by the authorities. Probably at the complete rock :-/
@jrblackify
@jrblackify 5 жыл бұрын
Yeah, looks like swallows nests. If they were endangered, then the park would close the entire area during nesting season most likely.
@juancarrasco3312
@juancarrasco3312 6 жыл бұрын
amiguitaaaaaaa todo bien pero la cadena se chapa de la última toma izquierda!!!! game over, cadena chapada fuera de la línea. esa vía la escale en el 2014 miamiauuuu
@jrblackify
@jrblackify 4 жыл бұрын
Who is the guy giving beta and belaying?
@somosnomadastv
@somosnomadastv 4 жыл бұрын
Booooooring! Zzzzzz, zzzzzz, zzzzzzzzzz......
@jimmypedro5741
@jimmypedro5741 4 жыл бұрын
Then get the fuck outta here
@arizonapatriot6710
@arizonapatriot6710 6 жыл бұрын
I saw his chub. He liked the view from behind.
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