Funny if you look at the wikipedia page for EV fires, the Nissan LEAF has one entry that occurred while in motion, from 500,000 vehicles sold worldwide over a decade. Tesla has multiples every year, from S to X to 3, many at stand still or while charging. Chevy Bolts, Hyundai Kona's, etc all having fires. Not the trusty old LEAF though!

@@pioneer7777777 - True. The Leaf uses NMC cells which are much less prone to fires than are Tesla's NCA cells. You may also have noticed that there have been incredibly few battery failures. The batteries may experience premature capacity loss but they rarely if ever outright fail. Also, in my opinion the premature capacity loss is being blown way out of perspective. It's largely due to being heat stressed which, while often unintentional, is more often due to carelessness. High power (HVDC) charging causes significant elevation of the battery's core temperature as does extended periods of high speed driving (over 80 mph). Stopping frequently to charge after a long periods of 80+ mph driving can increase the rate of battery degradation. Doing this when ambient temperatures are over 100F compounds the problem. This is what was happening to many Leafs registered in Arizona where owners admitted to frequent use of HVDC charging during daytime temperatures exceeding 110F. They were literally cooking their batteries. Moral of this story is and has always been, if you don't need to frequently use HVDC chargers, especially after driving for extended periods above 80mph, AND YOU DON'T LIVE IN ARIZONA, your Leaf battery will last just fine. I live just outside of the Capital beltway (Washington D.C.) and my 2015 has over 60k miles. I still have 12 bars and LeafSpy reports 89% SOH which is really good for a 6 year old vehicle. IMHO the Leaf is still the most dependable and lowest cost to own commuter car ever made.

I agree. Sounds like something more sinister might be going on. 10:30 Be aware that when you see the battery % SOC meter jump around it can mean something more serious. The battery SOC meter on the instrument panel should not jump around, certainly not by more than one or two percent. That is not normal. My new 2019 Leaf Plus would track accurately down to about 35% (car had gone about 135 miles after a full charge) at which point I would see fluctuations with the fuel gauge (charge remaining gauge) bouncing between 25% then back up to 35%. It would do this for about 10 miles at which point it would stabilize at around 15%. It was doing this under absolutely ideal conditions (largely flat open highway, driver only, tires at 39 PSI, no wind, 75F, AC Off, constant 58 mph). At the point when it settled it should have read roughly 30% remaining not 15%. I had somehow lost nearly 15% of my charge. Continuing on the car would then show 0% after only 165 miles (again this was a new vehicle being driven under near ideal conditions). I decided to get Leaf Spy to check out how the pack was actually performing. I immediately noticed something odd. Of the 96 blue bars one bar was always extremely low reading over 125 mV off. Leaf Spy indicated cell pair number 40 had serious problems. Leaf Spy also indicated that I still had 22 kWh of capacity left even though the dash gauge indicated 0%. That made sense since after 165 miles I should have had between 40-50 miles of range left. I immediately took the car back to the dealer who determined that I had a faulty battery module with at least one dead cell. The bad cell was confusing the BMS software. While Leaf batteries may lose capacity prematurely if abused it is rare for them to actually have cells that completely fail. And while it is highly unlikely to ever have a cell fail in a new Leaf it is nonetheless NOT impossible. I would recommend that anyone getting a new Leaf (or any new EV), become acquainted with software apps like "Leaf Spy" that allow analysis of the battery pack via the ODBII connector.

@@Tron-Jockey So what's the ODB11 connector...sorry am a newbie

Would you recommend for 100 mile round trip home work back home commuter?

Good to know! Thank you!

When you reach 0% you actually have about 5-10 miles left

When you do this, which cruise distance do you use? I tried the middle setting but felt too far back but using the closest setting felt bad also by being too close where the truck couldn't even see my car

Lots of time...

I really enjoy it because of 160 kW engine and fast acceleration. Most of those other EV's have 100 kW engine and more like 9 sec 0..60 Mwh. Leaf has 6.9 sec and 160 kW. So it is sporty :) I suggest to take a test drive of all cars which interest you to decide..

The regen on these cars nowadays is impressive and in city driving it captures most of the kenetic energy braking if you drive it effectively.

The 15 minute wait time you listed is under ideal circumstances what if there’s a line at the charge station? Then you could be waiting 40 mins to an hour this is why gas stations and gas guzzlers are leagues ahead of electric

Loses range over time (more battery degradation)

Also from what I read it will hold the higher heat state longer from using the a fats charger. Basically if you road trip and start with a full battery and drive 150 miles and rapid charge and go another 150 miles you can’t get another rapid charge without risk of over heating the pack. I believe it warns you me limits your speed and such so realistically even if you map out rapid chargers on route your total day range should max be twice your highway range then plan to have your hotel or destination have a level 2 charger to slow charge it up over night.

Yes some companies do it

Yeap. That r sucks getting only 193miles out of claimed 226?

@@futbol1972 The rated range for the SV and SL is 215. Losing 10-15% of rated range at highway speeds is normal in any EV.

I have SV plus 2023 and i do 16,5kw per 100km and i finish 315km The battery is 60kw 60/16,5X 100= 363km and i have never done the 363 km and never been close to 342 km as nissan says Why? the real capacity is really 60 kw or much less for 2023?

@@ericdesjardins9664 , I've actually gotten up to 230 miles (370km) as measured by a trip meter. Granted, this is me attempting to drive very efficiently. If I'm not paying attention I drop back to 210 miles or so. First, I believe the usable battery capacity is 56kWh or so. They reserve some to avoid deep charging/discharging, which helps a lot with the life of the battery. Second, the battery percentage indicator I was told lies to you. I think in an effort to keep people from riding too close to the edge of the battery charge and getting stranded, they have it progressively shave off some percentage that they show you on the dashboard. I've driven a few miles past the 0% indicator... I didn't push it too far though for obvious reasons, haha. Lastly, and this gets a bit more complex, it depends on your driving behavior. Energy consumption in transport isn't necessarily linear. The figure you're quoting is an average, but you can achieve the same average with a steady transport efficiency as well as with a fluctuating one. Hence, if your efficiency fluctuates a lot during that average calculation, you could be using more energy than if you were achieving that same efficiency calculation steadily throughout that entire 100km run.

@@JimBob1937 I've been doing 16.5 kw to 100 for several months and I've never exceeded 315 km. mostly I do 280km I don't find that normal. Nissan recently replaced a faulty cell module. My Leaf 2023 has only 15000km. I am very disappointed

@@ericdesjardins9664 , if I am understanding you, you are saying you are spending 16.5kWh to go 100km, correct? Sorry, I am only familiar with miles/kWh, so if I do the math correctly, you're hitting 16.5kWh per 62.1371 miles. So that would be 3.78 miles/kWh. If this is in warmer weather I'd say you're driving somewhat inefficiently then. I am driving 90% highway and still am getting 4.1-4.2 miles/kWh. During winter though with low temperatures I was getting 3.3 miles/kWh. For tips I'd say almost always drive in eco mode, even if it's less fun. I slightly fill my tires over the pressure recommended (40 PSI, not sure what unit you use) compared to the recommended 36 PSI, taking into account thermal expansion and the max tire pressure allowed. This decreases rolling friction and gives you a few extra percentage points of efficiency. Understand that your car has regenerative braking, so you'll want to let the car slowly come to a stop if you can. This allows your car to get back more energy that otherwise is lost by braking. If you hard brake, you're just turning that energy into heat. And yeah, weak cells can happen in any battery since a lot are wired in series. Glad you got it fixed under warranty though. I think it's like an 8 year/100,000 mile warranty?

@@ericdesjardins9664 , I'm just giving you these tips as I had a similar reaction as a new EV owner. At first I struggled to hit 2.9 miles/kWh, then as I got used to driving an EV I hit 3.3, then 3.8, then 4.1 and so on. I'd recommend keeping the display on your current km/kWh efficiency so you can understand what driving behaviors cause you to lower your rating. Plus keep track of your regenerative braking meter when braking so you can get feedback when you're maximizing it. All sounds annoying but it becomes second nature after a while. Now if I just blindly drive without monitoring the statistics I still achieve a good efficiency rating and my range exceeds the quoted range by Nissan.

I am! Just not for hot climates

Out of Spec Motoring very good, any idea when the Leaf will be liquid cool? BTW real nice quick range test.. more please!

@@fullyelectric Unless they decide to create a completely new LEAF, it's unlikely to see liquid cooling. The Nissan Ariya, a crossover and their next all-electric offering, will have liquid cooling.

@@fullyelectric According to what I have seen in Nissan future releases for EVs 2020 is the last year for the Leaf.

@@MHdollrevievs Definitely made for 2021. I have had all 3 versions and never overheated batteries.