I really like learning from the mistakes of others. Thank you for teaching this. Furring strips look so simple, and yet so easy to not get right.

"If it can't dry, it's gonna die!"

I've been a carpenter for over forty years. I've lost count of the number of times I've had to explain how water works to people. Anyway, there should also be screening at the bottom of that strapping to keep bugs out. And my pet peeve - for thousands of years the foundations of buildings have been heavier and wider than the wall above, but now, we build them so that the walls above project past the foundation, and I HATE the way it looks.

Very educational and useful. Keep them videos coming! I’ve seen so many builders create horizontal dams which I questioned but never really had clarity on. Thanks again

I'm an Owner builder. This is very basic stuff. Some people just want to overly complicate things. If you want complicated dwellings, hire a professional. If you want to owner build a relatively simple single-family home, then keep it simple.

Steve, thank you for posting! I've literally watched dozens of videos on furring strips and exterior insulation, and you provided a couple of details here that I haven't seen covered in any other videos: in particular, making clear that the furring strips are in a plane exterior to the window bucks, and that they terminate with gaps between them above the window. While I did get there on my own eventually, it took a lot of thinking as well as a discussion with another builder (neither of us had the details right, but we iterated on drawings together). Trim and siding installation around windows and the corners of building that have exterior insulation + furring strips is a topic just not revealed in videos as far as I've found, which then leaves ambiguity on how exterior insulation + furring strips should be finished in these spots. More videos on these topics would be much appreciated!

Great video.. thanks for posting.. he is super fortunate to even have you come by to inspect the work..

Cor-a-vent would have been an excellent product to use on all of the horizontal pieces of the rainscreen. It allows air and water to pass through but keeps bugs out. I always tell customers (and employees) that the siding is just for looks, yes it will shed vast majority of the water, but install your housewrap and flashings with the objective that they are actually what keeps the water on the outside of the building envelope, the siding is there just to protect it and to make it look good.

Thanks! As a new homeowner I found myself in some strange situations where contractors saw me and just assumed I could/would act as a general contractor, even though that was never my plan or something I wanted. It was confusing until I figured that out. Sounds like this situation was different, but thought I'd share in case anyone's on a job scratching their heads because everything's confusing haha. Maybe the dude everyone thinks is the GC actually isn't and is just the guy with the money trying to be helpful 😅 I wish someone could build an app that helps owners and contractors make good and easy to understand plans, like a menu with all the items and prices in it. p.s. the water in tension comments were fantastic, I've never heard someone explain that so clearly! even though I have heard the shorter saying 'if it can't dry it will die'. subscribed.

Thank you, STEVE! Fascinating stuff very informative and valuable.

A quick fix for the butted up 1x2's on corners could be to use Zip liquid flash over those 1x2's to waterproof the gaps. Possibly over all problematic joints, if there no more than maybe a 1/8" gap, rather than tear it all off and replace. No solution for missing flashing. That needs to be added. I used Zip-R12 for my sheathing over 2x4's (single story) with 1/4" plastic mesh rainscreen. I like the mesh rainscreen because there is no place for water to accumulate with no furring strips. I didn't trust not having a rainscreen with LP Smartside because the back of the siding is raw OSB. I had my contractor add that because he never uses a rainscreen. I had to show him how to treat the bottom and top of the siding for air movement. Using Zip-R12 over 2x4's gives you a normal wall thickness as if using 2x6 studs with 1/2" OSB/plywood sheathing, so no special order window extensions. We're in zone 6A.

Great video; very educational and informative!

Hi, do you have a detail for a window shroud? I would love to know how you would do it. The wall and roof assembly I have in mind is studs with insulation in cavity > continuous exterior insulation > sheathing > Alumaflash > non compressive mesh as a rain screen > metal siding and roof. I would do the whole exterior assembly in a monopoly style with small overhangs (I know you'd rather have larger overhangs) but use the window shrouds to protect windows and doors. Also for shading. Please let me know your thoughts. I'm breaking ground soon. I've been trying to soak up as much info as possible with your KZfaq channel and the Build Show. Huge fan.

Gosh I love these tips thanks so much

"you cant stop water only redirect it" quote from the engineers who built the Channel Tunnel..

Thank you. Explaining this helps a lot. How will the sill be protected from bugs? What about drip edge construction details? Bug screens?

Nicely done, Thanks!

When I see a new video pop up in my feed from Steve B - I say Yes….Yes….Yes!!! 🎉

I have a GC on my project. His crew definitely made the mistake of using at least one piece of horizontal furring between a set of windows. I'm going to have them take it out and replace it with coravent. Thank you for this video. They also liquid flashed the bottom of one window before I could stop them. My point is that having a GC doesn't solve for this issue as much as this video implies.

Where dose the water go? Absolutely agree that is a simple question to ask when doing a project. Good video

very good! thanks for sharing

Good stuff! Thanks Steve!

Beware the evil raindrop.

Only two ways to prevent water damage, hermetically sealed or give the water a way out. PS hermetically sealing is unlikely it stick built housing.

If a person is going to build their own home they need guidance. I have gotten into the build your own home program and it is good. It teaches that you shouldn't do the work yourself or things like this happen.

I'm a carpenter for 25 years I've never done furing on anything but metal roofs was this for metal siding???

@steve, I'm looking at windows from EAS in Littleton for replacing tradition American style double hung and casements currently installed in a Nantucket style cape. I'm trying to work through how do I manage water for a home that is finished with white cedar shingles over building wrap? I don't see an easy solution at the sill for keeping the water from going behind the shingles; should I consider that the shingles themselves providing the needed channels and water escape between each for water management?

So why couldn’t they just pop off those strips And seal penetrations and do it the right way instead of walking off the job or getting three different framers that can’t be the only reason, there’s gotta be more to the story but important part about being a contractor is also managing expectations if you get a architect or builder like Matt or Steve you must be able to communicate clearly what they expect out of you. Everyone makes mistakes.

That's IT???? 🤣🤣🤣 The homeowner contractor has done VERY WELL!!! Keep the contractors away PLEASE!!!

I agree 100% with the methods of ventilation and water draining. However, I can’t get past feeling sceptical that any more than a couple of extremely rare drops of water will ever get past my siding/flashing systems to challenge the rain screen behind. What am I missing?

Great video. Can you do some more (what not to do) videos. Thanks mate

Do you have a suggestion as to how to do corner nailing boards for this system? I’m assuming the builder was trying to give enough nailer for both the corner board and the horizontal siding butting into it. I’ve seen it done with a solid 1x8 for nailing, any ideas?

Tradesmen need to be educated. Where and who are they getting their education from. What are trade schools and apprentice programs teaching. Standard mock ups of window, siding and door details need to be provided or at least easy to understand drawings and a 10 minute run thru of what is expected. Set the expectations before the work is done.

For those battens, I'd be temped to use pressure treated wood that has been dried for a while. Of course stainless fasteners would have to be used and no other metal contact would be allowed unless a membrane was used so the metal, (think siding), is isolated from the PT wood, says me: BrickSaver LLC. And a stainless steel bug screen to keep out bugs.

Thanks for sharing Steven. Although I’m wondering what would be the best way to ventilate when your siding is run vertical rather than horizontal?

How do you properly attach a flanged window when using the rain screen method???

That was a good one. Well done

oops I think I may of made the same mistake on the header 'furring' ...... but....... I do cut the house wrap and secure over the 1x3 also adding flushing over the 1x3 to allow the water to run over... i was just thinking of a firmer surface for the siding/window casing.... your detail would save me the extra work.... I think my detail worked (yes?)... that said I'm revising my install for next time i come across this detail......... really enjoy watching ....... d

Water is the enemy of buildings. Good design and installation takes a little more effort but it is worth it long term.

Hello.! Steven. Here is Korea. I work in the wooden house industry in South Korea. The building science knowledge from North America and Canada trumental in my growth. Korea isn't widely exposed to such knowledge. Builders and framers still use techniques from decades ago, leading consumers to live in homes with various defects. I'd like to introduce your videos in Korea. Would it be okay if I excerpt clips from your videos and add my explanations to feature them on my KZfaq channel?

Hey Steve, great content! I’m planning a new construction as the contractor for a client and I’m thinking about using 2x4’s as furring to increase thru-wall ventilation that continues through a vented over-roof of similar construction. This would be in addition to rain screen and radiant barrier benefits, all on top of exterior foam board. Do you see any reason to avoid that approach?

What about the tiny elephants in the room, i.e., insects that like to build their home in those spaces?

Seemed to work pretty good for hundreds of years before high priced builders and all their expensive products. I know as I've repaired tons of old and new.

Steven, sorry to distract, but what touchscreen software are you using? I’m a physician and would appreciate the information.

I spotted all the mistakes. I guess I'm learning something.

such a helpful video

Water is adhesive and cohesive. Reminds me of dead valleys. Water is just gonna sit there.

Great video! Explaining what not to do or the why behind what to do is very valuable. When it comes to wood firing strips, is it worth the money to invent in a man made alternate or will the wood strips last the lifetime of the building as long as they are properly applied with good ventilation?

I enjoy your videos but I think this one is in the top ten. thanks.

Please keep sharing your No No No videos. 😄

I think you underestimate the shrinkage on the corner firring, although two nicely joined 1x8 is better than what is there, also the importance of critter resistance along the base, and how important nailing is in keeping that window trim from warping.

I guess it goes along with the horizontal furring around the windows, but isn't the stretch tape OVER the furring also a major problem? Especially on the top, the answer to "where does the water go?" is apparently straight into the wall since the stretch tape directs it there. It seems like there's shouldn't be any WRB extending out over the air space

Steve, with the gaps for air flow how do you keep the bugs out?

TY.

I need to see this. I seem to be missing the point. I need 3 D or something

Wow I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw that thumb nail. Great call out Steve, beginner mistakes.

Dunning Kruger effect at in action. I hope this doesn't happen to me!

They missed bug screen mesh and taping membrane joints too

@8:37 Steve means adding air to let the assembly breath / vent. Not water ;-)

It would be fun if we could play the no no no game also. Release the pic before the video so we can guess where the no no no's are.

Wish you would work my upcoming job in Pocono Mountains. Thanks

Great video, Steve. Would any of these mistakes have been caught by a building inspector? Did the owner/GC correct them? Thank you.

Great catch! MUST NOT Break Down & Out Law! 😮

Could've added a drip cap above that window

A little air space for bats and bugs maybe, your thoughts

Why the 1x furring strips and not a web type membrane like ZIP or Mortairvent?

Probably spent 3x as much had he just let someone else do it right the first time.

Nice to see you trust but verify!

Can you buy "specifications" that spell out this stuff? If the siding guys don't know how to do it properly even if the GC *does* know it's sorta too late if he has to show up at my project and say "No, no, no". What else has been missed? How much delay introduced? And so on. What's an ordinary guy supposed to do to get something built well?

Tiny overhangs too.

What about insects getting into the vented area?

Yes, rainbscreens a much better approach

Yes... yes... yes... Liked#31 N Subscribed!!!

Noooooooo

I wouldn't do the rain screen thing. It's a waste.

Bug screen?

This man is axe grinding over some water issues that are relevant to an extent. What he’s not offering is that along the entire length of each batten that is up against the Typar vapor barrier water will ride along and behind every inch of these untreated pine boards. I’ve got no issue with his critique of the water issues. But I do find his indictment of the person or persons who did the work obnoxious and arrogant. We all strive for excellence as builders. At least I do. And I’m hopeful this is true of most. Careful use of drip edges along the horizontal areas running beyond the outside surface of the casements that have not yet been applied will likely ameliorate most, if not all, of his concerns with the horizontal problems. There is still opportunity to handle the problem of the tight seams at the corners which are doing double duty to provide robust fastening for trim work and siding that meet at the corners. I remodel stick frame homes that were all built more than a hundred years ago. Virtually every modern code enforced on contemporary builders was not met by the carpenters who put them up. Yet my mid sized city has no record of any of them falling down and the vast majority have increased in value more than 2-3 hundred fold or more. Many modern codes invite plenty of new problems that come at insane inflationary costs that prohibit even minor changes. This man, who didn’t actually perform the work or offer demonstration of his own far more scrupulously completed building achievements. I find architects to be pie in the sky romantics with no concern for customer’s budgets. This is just another pedantic, mean spirited blow hard with nothing better to do with his time. Get off your horse or ride it out of town dude. I haven’t commented on a KZfaq video in more than a decade because I prefer to hold my tongue. Finally someone lit my fire and I couldn’t help myself. Feel free to offering a blustering retort I will never read as I’m now set free to scroll past.

I have pictures for you. Big luxury builder in Barrie Ontario. 2 year old house... 125k of rotted framing ... Great content!

When the siding is installed water shouldn’t be able to get behind it and make contact with the house wrap.

Needs coravent under the window if anything