Unless it's a board for her :)

@@matshape Good point! ;)

Please use respirator mask with filters. Please, you don't wan't to inhale epoxy+carbon fiber! Great job, love the graphics!

Thinking about how to use the leftovers for now … probably some kind of sculpture :)

Good luck! gold is fun and easy... I'd just avoid area to big, not sure how it would hold up...

just a bit of organization: prepare everything before and check twice, then I'm not in such a rush as it's ok if the resin starts to harden, the vacuum is more to make sure there's no gap, and no so much to extract the excess epoxy.

thanks, have a look at the V1 engineering low rider, should work well for 14ft .. in one go! :)

Lowrider? Damit könnte ich 14,0 x 29 x 12 Einbaumbretter fräsen? echt jetzt ?

@@sup-venture3653 yes I made a shorter one before kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iZ17iMSJzsqplo0.html but it should be no problem to go up to 14 ft long... it will just take quite a lot of time, but definitely doable :)

Great video! Very inspiring! What size did you make your MPCNC build area? X, y, z? I'd like to make an efoil board

my polystyrene is 17kg/m3 ... pretty light, easier to machine. That's why I added inserts everywhere. Doesn't the 3d print has issue to bond to the resin?

@@matshape Definitely lighter than mine! I used polyurethane glue with water mist for bonding after scuffing the contact surfaces. And the glass and epoxy seal on top edge too.

Foil Board shape matters a lit IMO. Beautiful work.

Shape starts to matter a lot for very light wind with small high aspect foil that you can’t really pump up … then you need speed, so relatively narrow flat bottom and sharp edges works better.

I did a lowrider too before... but it was too big to keep it in my spare bedroom :) I couldn't find big XPS blocs and the mess is not so bad, and you can make bean bags with it !

@@matshape I'm using XPS for my ineer core, you can either glue 2 XPS foams with epoxy or glue them with a central stringer plywood. Great video !

thanks! i'm in UAE.

Well spotted: the lowrider was for a friend with more space. it's great machine too, and the choice between both is very much dependent on what else you'd like to do with it. if you want to be able to cut full sheets of plywood, lowrider is definitely better, but to do smaller things in more materials, the MPCNC is more rigid. Even for boards, after cutting 2 with the MPCNC, I prefer that solution. It's more work to prepare the files for the machine, but doing it in a lot of small sections allows you to take breaks (if the neighbors are not happy with the noise). You also loose less time if you have a bug with the machine (mine froze once, and my spindle randomly shut off. restarting a 15 minutes operation doesn't feel as bad as a 2 or 3 hours one :) Having the machining done in several sections allow you to use different parameters: on sections with little material to remove, I can take 8mm stepover with 10mm mill and for section with much more material to remove, 3or 4mm stepover and several step-down....

it's a plastic PVC tablecloth folded in half with the edges glued with soft contact cement. I seal the open side by trapping it between to think pieces of wood and rolling it up with clamp, kind of how you close most waterproof bags ... it works great and doesn't puncture easily, I made 3 boards with it so far. I saw you can also use 2 plastic electric conduits with one that fits in the other one open on the side and clamp that way, but wood's working fine :)

Exactly, gorilla glue, it fills gaps nicely, dries quickly, and if you need to shape it down, it’s softer, so less difficult to shape down than epoxy. And it also less stiff thank epoxy, so even if the box has to move slightly, it won’t détache from the polystyrene around it .

thanks! bottom 300g biax on the box, 200g on back 2/3 of the length + 200g carbon and the top has 100g glass below the sandwich and 200g carbon on top + some black inegra (diolene) patches on the nose and the back for dings, small 200g carbon patch on the inserts. good luck !

either corn mill or regular end mill, cheap ones , just longer (up to 100mm) and bigger diameter (10mm) to have enough reach and remove material quick.

@@matshape Thanks!

thanks! 1: sandwich was mainly against ding when falling on the board and harness hook, and the bottom has a few extra patch to stiffen the tracks, so I took the shortcut :) 2: too lazy to model it, on the following board, I did it, but still had to do the vertical reinforcement by hand as they were too deep.

just below 5kg with pad and straps for 77L roughly :)

I'll definitely add a proper mask to my shopping list... side advantage, it'll scare my neighbors if they come complain for the noise.. :)

@@matshape They're so cheap compared to the benefits of using it. Once you have one you'll use it all the time. You won't regret it. Haha, yes your neighbours will love it!

thanks, i use acrylic based varnish, rustoleum and more recently the montana gold one, i like the spray pattern better.

the glue is a mix of epoxy, silica and black pigment, and the PVC is 3mm EasyCell75 Closed Cell PVC Foam from easy composites.

thanks, it's epoxy with cabosil and black pigment.

Thanks! Actually, I did one a while ago, before big wing were a thing. It kind of worked... but quickly the brands started designing way better foil, with smoother lift, more efficient, with lot of testing and trial an error. It's very hard to reach that level now but definitely doable. Best way seems to be to 3d print the mold instead of 3d printing the core. have a look on Facebook group "board and hydrofoil building" some guys are doing amazing work :)

V1 engineering , they make kits for the electronics and designed all the parts .

The coating is mainly microbaloons, it’s super light and easy to sand, I had to to it on the bottom as the vacuum messed up the surface a bit. Lightweight polystyrene is good as long as you add reinforcement especially for the foil and there is enough overlaps on the rails, bonding is great as the resin can flow between the “balls”. But it can be a bit heavy if you glass without vacuum as the polystyrene will drink more than more traditional polyurethane.

@@matshape , i read you. Im rebuilding the cockpit of a 1980 raceboat (9m) with fiberglas and foam core.

@@matshape I think it's a misconception to think that polystyrene 'drinks' more resin than urethane, having extensively worked with both. What might be a factor, though, with vacuming is the fact that it holdsthe cloth down as it will float on he resin if too much resin is used and something a novis glasser might do. Professional glassers using a proper developed technique are adept at applying the minimum resin for lightweight.

Rustoleum dead flat clear, for UV protection, waterproof and may be help a bit with light scratches. I tried some brushed on polyurethane but it peeled off after a while... that spray doesn't move.

@@matshape Thanks I'll try it.

Thanks! I personally like the MPCNC because it breaks down the machining in small steps( ~15 to 30 minutes each), so you can take breaks and if there's an issue, it's just a small step to start over. The lowrider I did was of the previous version and there was some rigidity issues, partly due to my built, partly to the design. The new version looks much better, so i can't say for sure. This is definitely not a professional machine, a few differences: - you have to start from a square blanks, doing the setup for a regular surfboard blank might be tricky. - as the blank is square, the depth of cut is pretty big sometime and that limits the bits you can use.The biggest i have is 1cm dia but 10cm length of the flutes. so that makes for slow cutting. - i'm using a 500W spindle (mainly for noise reason) so when trying to remove too much material at once, it has issues. using a more powerful one or a router would definitely help. So yes, you could carve a 14 ft race sup... but the blank would be huge and it would take a while. Another option to explore, depending on the shapes you want to achieve might be a CNC hotwire. For example for the size of mine, to make a 5ft board, it took around 2 hrs machining. That could be made faster (more than cut in half) with a different bit and more powerful spindle. I'm now working on a 6+ft pretty thick board that had to be made in 2 half (one for the top and one bottom) it took 15 different operations and close to 4 hours. But that's not a shape i could have done by hand.

@@matshape thank you for the valuable feedback.🙏

:) the CNC is actually quite straightforward... V1 engineering kits help a lot! I'd say around 15hr, plus lot of 3dprinting. and less than 20hrs for the board... the microballoon filler instead of hot coat gloss coat saves a lot of sanding time !

Check out V1 engineering website, very well documented, Forum full of information and they sell kits with all the electronics and even the 3d printed parts if you want. It's a great option as you can just design any size you want depending on your usage, and turn out cheaper than most maybe be even all other options. Be careful, if you start winging... you'll almost stop touching your kites :)

@@matshape Come ride with us at 16th street Pompano Beach, FL anytime Bro! Thanks for the info!

@@matshape Cool project! Thanks for making the video for us all. Did you use the v1 engineering MPCNC?

@@sjcwindsurf yes it is, fun little tool :)

check V1engineering website, 3d files are free and you can pick the right version for your tube size. good luck!

exactly, thin hot coat to fill some gaps left by the peel ply, sanding high spots and give some grip for the next coat and the spray is Rust-OlEUm Clear 302151. it's holding well so far :)

Sweet, I’ll be giving it a try on my next board!

How has the clear coat held up for the past few months?

price would definitely be an issue, but weight would not be doable, PVC is 75 kg/m3 and polystyrene is only 17kg/m3. I'm also not sure it is possible to find blocs of PVC foam of that size... and it's much harder to machine.

It depends, on the deck, the carbon is on the PVC and the PVC doesn't soak up resin, and i had only 1 layer of 200g carbon, so the lamination was quite light in resin already, the vacuum was just to keep the carbon tight against the board so I added a layer of thin plastic on the peel ply to keep the resin in the carbon, plus breather on top to spread the vacuum. On the bottom, the carbon is on the polystyrene, that tends to absorb more resin and with the reinforcement patches i had up to 700g of carbon on top of the boxes (2x200g twill + 300g biaxial) so i laminated quite heavy in resin to make sure it was saturated. For that step i used a drain/ breather on top of the peel ply to absorb the excess.

epoxy + silica between the plastic insert and the green PVC foam, and gorilla glue between PVC foam and polystyrene.

@@matshape Thank very much

@@matshape Another question, which thickness is the top PVC? Thanks

@@fedemon76 3mm, it's just thin enough to wrap around the rail with the heat gun...

to equalize the pressure inside, with those higher volume boards, especially with EPS foam, the pressure would get quite high when it's hot and it could delaminate...

Merci, J'ai la version personnelle gratuite de fusion, pas de problèmes pour faire l'export, les fonctions payantes ne sont pas nécessaires. Par contre j'ai du installer un post-processeur dedie a ma CNC. Honnêtement je n'y connais presque rien, mais le forum de V1 engineering est genial et a toutes les infos. En fait l'usinage de cette planche a été fait en 8 operations, 4 de chaque cote. Avant de commencer, je n'assure que le bloc est bien rectangle/plat/parallèle... et je marque tous mes points des départ (sur la ligne centrale, aux distances prévues quand j'ai créé les fichier d'usinage), donc le retournement n'importe pas. Je garde les parties non usinées aussi pour supporter les 4 côtés quand une operations est en route, vu que j' usine "sous" la machine, le bloc de polystyrène est plaqué avec des serre joints aux 4 coins. Je pense que c'est aussi possible de ne supporter que sur les 2 côtés, mais gérer les point de départ est moins facile. C'est aussi possible de faire une machine plus grande qui usine un côté d'un coup, regarde le Low rider sur le site de V1engineering. J'en ai construit une comme ca avant, mais elle prenait trop de place pour que je puisse la garder. Il y a aussi le fait que faire une face d'un coup est une très longue opérations et si il y a le moindre problème tu recommences du début, alors que avec plein de petite operations de 15-20 minutes c'est moins risqué. Bon courage!

Merci, je pensais bien que les parties non usinées servaient pour l’appui de la machine et permet de garder la référence du bloc horizontal. C’est avec fusion que tu détermines plusieurs fichiers d’usinage?

@@Fus-1111 exactement: je définis 8 "blank" qui correspondent à chaque zone d'usinage (4 offsets différents depuis un des bouts de la planche et chacun dans 2 orientations ( dessus dessous) et ça permet de changer les paramètres en fonction de la profondeur d'usinage... si il n'y a pas bcp a couper je fais des passes plus larges, si c'est plus profond je prend un peu moins. Voir même, pour le dessous du nez de la planche, je fais une première passe am mi-profondeur et une deuxième jusqu'au fond, ca prend le double de temps, mais ca evite les problemes...

@@matshape Merci, je vais installer Fusion 360 et voir comment dessiner avec....

4.6kg without pads and straps, and it feels bombproof :)

thanks. the cost of the board or the CNC, I didn't track either, but all hand made boards are in the 300-400$ range. I added a breakdown of the board cost on my latest video. this one is shorter, so less carbon, and the thin PVC for the sandwich is not very expensive. For the machine... no idea :)

@@matshape very much appreciated .. I will check the latest video right now

it is 3mm EasyCell75 Closed Cell PVC Foam.

Gorilla glue is a moisture activated polyurethane glue. Moisture is the air can activate it, but adding water speeds up the curing and I thin it makes it foam a bit more too.

@@matshape I didn't know, thank you very much; then a light pass of water; I saw that you also use it to attach the box to the foam and the rails to the box, is there any risk of tearing it? I've seen that many use classic carbon sheet and expoy between box and eps foam

actually, I use epoxy + silica to bond box to HD foam and then gorilla glue to bond HD foam to EPS. the idea is to go by decreasing stiffness and avoid stress riser. that's why I don't think having carbon between HD foam and EPS is needed at all. Note that I don't jump with my boards, but I push hard on the, when pumping, hitting sand bottom or doing speed runs, and I never has any issues.

@@matshape ah perfect since I followed your videos carefully I saw different types of gluing; I have to assemble my box I think I'll do it like this gorilla for box and ribs and expoy and silicon for the tracks; thanks u soo much

4.6 kg before adding the pads...

the PVC on the deck is to make a sandwich: glass+ PVC+carbon, its makes it much more resistant to pressure dent and dings.

not sure if I can post links, but they are cheap end mills from Ali express: the long one is D10x100x150 4F ( www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003459440322.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.4b001802srAsoS ) and the slightly shorter one is a CN, D10x55x100L (www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003231794136.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.4b001802srAsoS )

@@matshape tks alot. First Link doesnt Work in my country. But it is a roundnose 4 flute Spiral Cutter? Or Like the Second, also Like a diamant grate?

@@sebastiangeitner6955 description of the first one is : "Foam Cutting High Speed Steel Extra Long Straight Shank End Mill Bits EVA Engraving Cutter", it is indeed 4 flutes spiral (that's the only one i can find with 100mm cutting length, but they are square at the bottom. description of the second one is "XCAN PCB Corn End Mill 3.175mm-12mm Shank Milling Cutter Titanium Coated CNC Router Bits Milling Bit Carbide End Mill", i think corn teeth is the usual name. square at the bottom too. in the end it doesn't make much difference between ball end or square, you'll get ridges either way. and with square ones you can cut slots for your foil boxes cleaner in the corners.

Perfekt tks

my supplier of foam doesn't do XPS block, only EPS, the XPS they have comes in plates , and is much denser.