Thks, glad you like. Yes, they aren't bad for the price.

Thks. Obviously not always XD. But it is nice to crash it sometime to see how it can handle bad landing.

Thanks, glad you like it.

Thks, glad you like it ;)

Thks, glad you like.

Thks for your comment, i'm glad you like it. I try to show everything. I did be fooled by reviewers on youtube, i try to don't make the same mistake.

Thks. I never broke a pin on my 21101 and i was more hard than with this one in this video. But i saw some users who had some issues i never had like broken diff. side gear. It can happen that parts aren't well made sometime. Did you break a lot of pins?

Switch Off When Not In Use I broke 2 sets. Then I sold it. So both sides at the same time twice. I've learned my lesson now. If I keep breaking a car I don't keep sinking more money into it. Then when I looked it up it showed quite a lot of people had the same issue. To me that's a HUGE design flaw. Thank you for your response. I always look forward to your videos. You don't b.s.

Thks, glad you like 😃

@@NobodyNoWhereElse hi mate im new to this hobby what best can you recommend for a lipo charger

Nice 👍. It is always adivsed to check the assembly of RTR cars, Ready To REassemble 😁. And this car is easy to work on.

Thks, glad you like. I don't think there was a problem during the speed test. I don't think i will do an another one with this car.

Switch Off When Not In Use , no worries, you know more than me 😁 keep em coming brother 😁👍😊

Thks, glad you like it. I subscribed to your channel also ;)

Yes. even if i disassemble cars during my unboxings i try to keep them as stock to show what could happen. Yes, like all RTR cars, the best is to verify every screw and add threadlocker on any metal/metal screws. On this one, the input gears can become loose very often, so before use it you must put some threadlocker. Adjusting the slipper is also something to do.

Yes but the motor get already too hot with the smallest motor pinion, 15T.

+Switch Off When Not In Use oh, you can try adding a motor heatsink with built in fan, that should help

There is a slipper clutch on this car. Out of the factory it is hard to adjust, we must hold the drive cup to manage to turn the 12mm nut and not turn the whole slipper. Yes, sidewalk edge can make a carnage when we run a rc car in the street. What is "beseltek"? I would say it need hard steel for the CVD instead of been thicker, the CVD are already pretty thick on this car.

The Beseltek is basically a HSP or Redcat( for only $112)..it's just on sale at the moment)....it's the kind with 8 shocks. It;s not as sturdy as the JLB..but it's still a good buy to get into 1/10 MT with brushless and all metal drive train parts.. out of the box. It donst have a wheelie bar and lacks purposeful front and rear bumpers. It would destroy the truck's front end if i hit the sidewalk.lol Without proper bumpers it'll cause all kinds of problems during landings...ect. These flaws are will known. You get what you pay for. You'll need too up grade it..if you want to jump it..(as you did in the video.) Thanks for in the informations...Maybe the dogbones/cvd might fit it. Getting back into the hobby again. Learning about the lastest R/C designs..ect Without a CLUTCH....dont really want to use the breaks unless you have too. I can see the gears going out on it eventally..if I break too hard..but you need breaks at 40 mph..especailly on the street.lol

Ok, i see the truck you re talking about. For the price it is nice but we can't expect a lot. There is surely worst for this price like many 1/12 which aren't a lot cheaper. The HSP 1/10 MT and the JLB are very different, the JLB is bigger. There is a thread on the buggy version on rcgroups : www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2899823-Another-HSP-XSTR-1-10-thread

im working myself up to a 1/8 scale. Collecting hobby grade equipments as i go, I get into jets. boats..ect too....Loving the lipo and brushless technology. .Learning as I go.

The bison has a better handling because it has 3 differential. The JLB cheetah, 21101, J3speed is a bit more durable because it as an aluminum chassis plate. So far, i have more beated my JLB than my Bison before it is unusable because of a bad breakage. Both can reah the same speed, the JLB is a little bit more harder to control at fast speed because it doesn't have a center diff..

LOL, steve say so much bull...t, he doesn't know that much in RC, he is a rookie in rc who do youtube videos. Does he say that the electronic get too hot when he reach 91km/h? He also say that the JLB can be use on 4s...the best way to destroy the drivetrain. He also say that the DHK zombie and Maximus are good when there is a big issue on the gearboxes. He is mainly an affiliate seller. And this one is an ARR, so there is my own electronic inside.

This one is an ARR, come without electronics.

Nope :D. It is my own electronic. I received the J3Speed as ARR so without electronics. You can see the electronics here : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jJykg71h2Jnccpc.html , there are also the electronics specs in the video description ;) . But otherwise yes, the J3Speed come with a 3200kv motor, which is too much Kv imo as the 2500Kv motor in the 21101 already get very hot with the smallest motor pinion we can put on the JLB.

Show what you do then.