The fact that the Amiga case was not mutilated (as some people do) is really pleasant to see, if needed/wanted it is totally reversible to the original state without any damage. 10/10 points for originality, 10/10 points for implementation.😃

"I'm in northern Spain and we don't get many sunny days." *Stares at the Irish grey sky...*

No drilling no destruction, this is soooo cooool! And as always a well earned thumb up. Cheers.

John Cutter worked on Defender of the Crown and many years later I worked with him on two games for Big Fish Games: Fairway Solitaire (PC/Mac original version) and Unwell Mel (PC/Mac). He's a great designer! I learned a lot.

I know the purists out there are adamant about keeping such a system original but to me, the upgrade it far better and you can always keep the old part if someone MUST have it the old way. Using a faster and much larger capacity drive like the go-tech is certainly preferable. The silly thing is, is that if such a device were available back in the day... many people would have used it. I see no loss in the machine's value and in fact a large uptick in usefulness. Very well done as usual!

It may be worth mentioning that the Gotek can also be flashed using a male-male USB cable, using the DFU mode of the STM32. This may be an easier option for people that don't have soldering tools, although it also requires the same bridge on the headers.

Thanks a lot - again! BTW: For cleaning key caps you can reduce the time to an absolute minimum by just putting them into a bowl and adding 6 or so dental cleaning tabs and just let it sit for 1/2 hour or so. Rinse and dry. Done! No scrubbing needed.

I tried the sun brightening also. The results are Similar with yours. For the gotek, I use an external floppy case and I switch between df0 (internal fdd) and df1 (external fdd gotek). In the gotek I put an 16gb small size usb stick with the Amiga software. This works great for me. Anyway, good video Noel.

Great video Noel. Now I have the Turrican soundtrack stuck in my head.

Good work! I’ve found the best way to brighten discolored plastic is to use a high concentrate of H2O2 (12% is the highest I can find) and place it and your plastic components in a zip lock bag, place it in a bucket of plain water, and add a heater, such as an aquarium heater or, my preference, a sous vide heater. The heat replaces the sun energy and with the plastic components free-floating in the H2O2, you get a very even effect on the color. My Atari ST keys came out looking new and it only takes 8 hours or so. Best of luck!

For components that generate a lot of heat, hot glue is usually a bad idea -- even if it doesn't remelt, it can still get hot enough to slowly "flow" -- but you're right it's super temporary -- the best way I've found to remove hot glue came from Voultar's channel: use 99% rubbing alcohol -- just soak a little paper towel with it, and crinkle it tightly over the glue for about 30 seconds -- it should just start lifting up -- if it doesn't add more alcohol and try again. (It's amazing how well this works. My mind was blown the first time I tried it.)

Thanks for the instructional part on the Gotek. That will be very useful.

The "memory upgrade with switch" was most likely a 512K chip/fast expansion. The switch is for switching the configuration between 1MB chipram, and 512k chip/512k fast. This is because very early programs were not compatible with fastram configs, so you had to configure it as 1MB chipram. (You don't leave it this way for normal operation, because when it's all configured as chipram, it's slower.) My PAL A500 has this upgrade, with a switch accessible via the port on the underside. It really came in handy when I was producing MindCandy Volume 2 (Amiga), as some of the most early demos wouldn't run in the 512k fast/512k chip configuration.

Hi Noel, I guess you applied face down the back of the display housing. I think the two plastic rib should be fits into the ventilation notch and securely hold in place the whole display assy.

Haha, loving the 16-bit dance party! 🎉 I recently discovered sunbrighting as well after being sceptical for the longest time. Loving the mods here, agreed that a Gotek is a must!

Loved the mods. I hope you are healthy and stay that way. Take care. Cheers

What a change with the retro/sun brighting. Perhaps you can try using the Australian sun some day? We can take our yellow Amiga's to the beach, hahahah... Awesome episode Noel!

Another great video of yours! :-D Please Noel! Install the Pî-Storm hack on this Amiga. We all want to see it for sure! ;-)

For the keycaps - just use a flat and transparent bin, put some double sided glue tape on the bottom, stick the keycaps to it, so they don't float away and pour 12% peroxide fluid carefully into it until the caps are submerged and place it into the sun. This works very well and intense. You can rotate the bin into another sunlight direction, so every corner and side of the caps will get it's sunlight (and heat)... But, the yellowing will come back. In month or years. Sooner or later...

Very nice idea with the display on top. I had the same approach with just taping the display on my A500 ( rough fix).

Its looking really good and it was great that you didn't need to cut the machine. I was surprised that the buttons were not moved to the front as well, as I tend to find it easier to have them next to the screen. One of the mods that I like to do with floppy Flash goteks is to add the third button, as I think it makes it easier to move around the file system and insert and eject disks.

Yet again a great video Noel! The only thing I'd do different is to paint the fake button on the mounting bracket and perhaps the screen mount box, so it blended in a little.

I fully restored some old BBC Micro's using peroxide cream designed for bleaching hair, painted it on, wrapped the items in cling film & left in the sun all day. Took about three tries but came up like new!!

Neato ;-) I've done "sunbrighting" on a Plus/4 with similar results. Good video as usual sir.

In order for all the keys to be the same color and look new, you had to arrange them with the letters up, but with spaces between them so that the light reached the pages and were completely covered with hydrogen peroxide. Mixed up like you did, with most upside down you have some well done and some partially done. By the way, I like the way you work and I want you to continue with good themes and good old computers. Greetings from a loyal viewer from Serbia! PS: Sorry for maybe bad English but it's google translate.

Thanks for the great video 👍 i’m 4/5 way of transplanting an a500+ into an a500++ pcb, hopefully get it to boot over the weekend 🤞

What a great channel, subscribed!

Great stuff Noel. Thanks.

The sound of the disk buzzer is surprisingly nice...

Great to see another A500 get some TLC. I retrobited my A500 key caps in the same way. Orienting each cap in the bag to avoid any overlap and shadows is a total pain, but helps reduce any mottling. Looked so much better at the end, great comparison.

Very cool Noel, as always a very informative and nice to see video, thank you for it! I replaced my internal A500 floppy drive with a Gotek aswell and I love it. Also got a sound ticking mod... As I have an external disk drive I am still able to use floppy disks. I just installed a boot selector to choose whether to boot from Gotek (DF0) or from external disk (DF1), so everything is still possible. My case is in good condition, but my keyboard caps would benefit from retrobright too, but I did not manage it yet, due to missing sun :-) And I do not have that transparent, fluid hydrogenperoxide, I only have a white creamy version from a hair dresser, maybe combined with some water it might also work... Best wishes, Michael

Printing with a beige fillament or painting with a close beige paint should help match things better. As others said, the display probably just clips on, no need to use hot glue again, no matter how much you want to! ;-) Big change even with just the sun, great work!

I have de-yellowed many systems without chemical's, just sunlight works great.. easier way to clean is allow to soak in soapy water for half hour, then brush of any stubborn dirt. After clean and bleaching use a car dash/trim cleaner restorer for a nice finish. Simple!

I'm jealous of you Noel, you get to play with all the Amiga's over there in Europe, and here in Canada, they're so scarce and rare to be almost out of range to buy, even on Ebay.

The result was still good regardless. Hard to notice until your nice slider before and after shots. Nice work.

I tried several machines with the Sun brightening method and it all depends on the plastics. for a C128, an apple IIc : good results slight yellow remains. For Atari Mega STE : average.

1:37 I see what you did there - nice obscure reference!

I put all keys of my C64C on carton board using double sided tape, put a thin layer of hydro peroxide in cream form on them, put that in seal able plastic bags and put that in a box with an UV light on top. That gave a very nice result. The idea was that all keys kept facing up during the process. I got the UV light method from Jan Beta's channel.

At that time I had a PC power supply unit on the A1200. I got one with only 100W. Mainly 5V is needed, + 12V for tone and serial, then -12V only for serial.

Nice job. Maybe you should spray with some car paint the led holder and the go-tek white internal carrier with a close match to the amiga colour to make it look even better.

I think there's an implication that there are at least 2 yellowing mechanisms. Maybe the old bromine-or-whatever mechanism requires the oxidizer to break up, while the newer mechanism can just be sun-bleached.

Did you finish of battery repair and what did you do with memory expansion? Great video keep it up

I think you are a bit harsh on yourself with the retrobrite. For how yellow it was it's come up really good. Excellent job.

You should try the latest USB flashing method for the Gotek. Just done my new Gotek’s and it was incredibly painless. No soldering required, just a single temporary jumper wire shorting across 2 holes, and a USB A to USB A cable. A much easier and better approach than soldering headers and needing a programming USB adapter. :)

Ok a like for the 16 bit dance party! Noel, what is your back ground in electronics how did you get into board level troubleshooting? I see the main tool is understanding basic electricity and electronics. You demonstrate how to troubleshoot electronic circuits. It can be overwhelming when you start out. What is important is the sequence of operation. Once you know how a circuit is supposed to work, it becomes easier to fix. BTW I love the way you present your material, just like another creator "Mr. Carlson's Lab" Both of you give me my fix for fixing retro gear. I so badly want to get an Amiga. Yes there is emulation but I want to tinker with this stuff.

Thumbs up just for Defender of the Crown, alone. The rest of the video was great as well, too. ;)

Gran trabajo, felicitaciones.👍

It could be interesting to paint the LCD container with a creamy white if available and add keys externally as well.

It looks a great deal better. I like the Gotek screen case.

Great video. Thx

I sprayed mine orange and it looked brilliant ,its a shame commadore did not offer the amiga in other colours

20:52 I recognise that wire... Greetings from sunny Sheffield-on-Sea! =)

Great video! maybe it would have been better to use the cream peroxide on the keyboard keys that might have worked better than liquid.

I have that exact expansion with the switch. Mine too has succumbed to the battery corrosion, so I need to get a replacement at some point, but honestly, I don't know if it's really worth it.

Your floppy cable is backward at both ends. It still works, but the red stripe should align with Pin 1 on both ends.

great job! but please make sure you don’t keep that Amiga where the sunshine’s since anything I’ve ever retro brighted over time (6 + months) will turn yellow again when exposed to the sun

Hey! Great video, just wondered where i northern spain you are because you could argue that catalonia is northern spain and the difference between there and galicia for example is very big.

Actually I prefer to retrobright using the thermal method instead of the UV method. Hydrogenperoxide simply needs energy to start the process of retrobrighting - no matter if it uses UV or heating. For smal parts like keycaps , mice or power supply housing I simply use a plastic box with a lid, put the parts inside, fill it with hydrogenperoxide - and put it inside my oven for 3.5h @65°...70°C. This work weather independend, quick and reliable. With very yellowed parts you might have to repeat it one more time to get a perfect result. This works so nice and easy, I am quite sad my oven is to smal for doing so with the whole Amiga case (and C64 cases by the way). As I have a lot of bigger cases flying around, I am even considering to build a 70°C "oven" myself, using a big but relativly flat plastic box, some thermal isolation - and old parts of upgraded 3d printers (like non-very flat heatbeds I replaced by more stable flat ones, controller board with A4988 stepper driver still usable for controlling the old headbeds, 4*20 LCDs I replaced by touchscreens and so on). With all this waste parts reused, some thermal isolation material pieces and Fermacell plates left over from my latest home improvment I would be able to make a thermal-retrobrighting box practicly for free (only the plastic box in the right size I might have to buy). But I have to give a warning: Amiga keycaps are pad printed (exept the early A2000 Braunschweig edition from Cherry with mostly Doubeeshot keycaps of course) . The print is protected with a clear protective paint. Hydrogeneperoxide attact this protective layer. So retrobrighting some keycaps a second time, the prints litterary swam away off some keycapts. I am pretty sure all of the keycaps will become blank after 3 or 4 passes of retrobrighting. But it is possible to reprint the keycaps with dysub transfer method. Simply search for "dyesub keycaps" on youtube, there are some very nice videos how to do so. Make sure you have the layout for all the keycaps prepared just in case... You might make a highres scan of the keycaps between cleaning and retrobrighting or after the first pass retrobriging. You do not need to buy a printer for making the transfer sheet) as any printshop making mugs or mousepads with individual photos can print your own (mirrored) layout for a small price. But I had an 12year old Ricoh Aficio 2100 I did not use anymore and bought a conversion set of replacement tanks and dysub ink for 60€ - works perfect. First think I made was my own mousepad with Amiga logo, of course... This it not only a warning, but also an oportunity: If you want to change the layout (for example english to german) you can use multiple pass retrobrighting to clear out the prints intentionally. It also works on new pad printed keycaps. Ever wanted a Pimiga 400 with Amiga keys? Simply carefully remove the caps with the raspberry logo, "retrobright" them multiple times and you will have blank keycaps - ready to be dysubed with Amiga "A"s.

I find the gotek much *less* convenient than using floppies. The 7seg version is downright unusable, but even with the oled, I find it extremely awkward and annoying to use. Also, I love that microsoft mouse. Best mouse they ever made.

Great episode (as usual 👍). Question: Could you use an ultraviolet lamp, or lamps, to solve the “inconsistent sun” challenge?

I tried this method on a tank mouse. Did work indeed, but yellowing was back soon.

Hola Noel, I've always wondered how would affect the strength of the hydrogen peroxide used in the result of the retrobright process. I see you use the pharmacy-standard grade of 10 vols (2.5%). It is legal to buy up 48 vols (12%), over that you would need a special permit (I've seen up to 50%). It would be an interesting experiment to see the difference between both liquids. I assume, correct me if not, that you can recover later the peroxide for reuse, can't you?

Hi Noel -- can you use an artificial UV light source -- like a UV lamp for retrobrighting?

Same results here with sunbrighting. C64C and A1200 came up great. C64 breadbin and 1541 no noticeable improvements. And I’m pretty sure it made the front plate of one of my 1541-II worse. It’s hard to get peroxide here though so not much choice.

any real dance party (8bit or 16bit) should have hands playing air drums.

I find it interesting that you would put the case out into the sun to reduce yellowing when isn't the sun what causes the yellowing in the first place ?

Y'know, I think I actually prefer the C64 Turrican soundtrack to the Amiga one. Also, the C64 R-Type theme suits the game so much better than the original arcade soundtrack.

Those Artery chips on the newer Goteks only seem to like Flash Floppy v3.28 or later. If you use an older version, the Gotek won’t let you select files.

The funny thing is I like the yellow keys.

Esas rallas amarillas como son poca superficie son lo ideal para la crema decolorante capilar deliplus del mercadona

Great video! But after watching a few of your videos, I really think you should experiment with a better way of retrobriting the keyboard keys. At the moment it's just too hit and miss and random.

Nice video but a few things : - Goteks have no protection on the 5v line on the USB port, they can fry your motherboard. They shouldn’t be used. - FlashFloppy is a rather poor drive emulator with non existent support for native disk formats. For example it has (had haven’t checked in a few months) no dms support which is the format almost everything Amiga was released on the system. It also has no ipf support and poor everything else, its really just your typical adf files You should be using/advocating HxC 2001 floppy drive emulators instead and they’re not really more expensive than a gotek in the end (Lotharek sells them for example) depending on the model you end up using.

I was thinking key logger when you said it was attached to the keyboard.

Can someone please tell what MOD is playing in the 16bit dance party? I probably missed it somewhere in the video and description :-(

Oh, atleast a Commodore! I know i just get on nerves but i like to see a C 16 on the channel.

I learned the sunny days in northern Spain are not that numerous. Who knew?

So, you can put the keys in water with hydrogen peroxide on the stove. I haven't tried it, but I think the 8-bit guy uses this method.

Cool video! You can do mine too, we arguably have even worse weather here in The Netherlands 🤪 BTW technically it’s a 32bit dance party. The 68000 is a 32 bit machine with a 16 bit bus. Sorts like a 386SX 😉

Yeah, sun only completely depends on the material. I've had great success with some old PC cases.

Is there still een option to read old disks? Or is this an unlikely scenario?

well, I'd like to have a 16-bit dance party so where did you get that hydrogenperoxide solution because in Sweden that is a nono? Back in the day it was readily available in pharmacies but damn if I know where to get it now

It's actually a 32-bit machine, even if the bus is only 16 bits wide.

I've had no problem re-flashing Gotek (STM32) through its USB port, without having to use TTL/serial adapter.

Hey Noel, has anyone modded the setup to include the gotek buttons up beside the oled disply.. That be cool...

Did the walls got a retrobright too?

At the time of me watching the video. It had 64 Thumbs up. I had to break that magic number and take it to 65. When the thumbs up reach 500 and you are about to take it to 501. Cherish the moment.

I sunbrighted a 1571 drive, worked flawlessly

5:13 So you now have the perfect excuse to get an house in south of Spain. Sevilla for instance.

24:27 It's a 16/32-bit machine.

Spain? From your accent, I could swear you are Nordic! Cheers from the other side of the border

Have a 500 plus, an A600 & a 1200 with a hard drive, all with degrees of yellowing 🤔

not another one whit pcpway grrrr anyway love all of your video

Ohhh dios mio, tambien habla español... n_n esto se pone mejor cada vez que regreso xD

Flash Floppy! lol .. you would get arrested for that !

why not baking soda on the inside rust also?

@3:24 😁

If you have direct sunlight coming into that room, you should take the comparison picture 4 minutes earlier per day of difference. :-D (joking, of course but that should be about right)

Why do Gotek use black plastic anyway? Floppy drives were usually a cream colour.

The before/after comparison seems a bit exaggerated based on the white balance on the background.

I'm from Finland, and now i'm hearing that the sun can help Amiga? Is that true? Beacuse i still have Amiga 500, and it also works. 🐈😸😺